Oodnadatta Track

Understand

With a total length of 617 km, the Oodnadatta Track is not very long as Australian standards go, and you don't really need a 4WD to get from Marree to Marla. But what it lacks in length and difficulty is largely made up for with historical and natural sights. You can have a look at the many sidings of the old Ghan railway, the ruins of a former rocket tracking installation site, the remains of a telegraph repeater station and the longest bridge in South Australia. The track also skirts Lake Eyre South, or if you're more adventurous you could drive to Lake Eyre proper from William Creek, one of the smallest settlements in Australia. And then there are the strange mound springs like The Bubbler or Blanches Cup— yes, there is water in the driest part of Australia. The track is essentially a diversion from the Stuart Highway from Port Augusta to Alice Springs. It largely follows the route of the old Ghan railway. The Ghan itself now largely follows the route of the Stuart Highway.

Prepare

As said before, this track is not as difficult as other outback tracks and can be driven in a conventional vehicle. Note that you do need a 4WD if you are going to tackle the road from William Creek to Lake Eyre. Fuel can be bought in Marree, William Creek, Oodnadatta and Marla, which are each about 200 km apart, but try to avoid fueling up in William Creek as prices are steep. The main track is relatively well-traveled, so there's not much chance to be stranded for days, but some of the attractions are located a distance from the main track which may be less traveled. Reading the outback section of Driving in Australia is recommended, and will give you some advice on the do's and don'ts. You don't need special permits to travel this track. This is remote country. People have died from exposure not far from the main track. Take extra food and water. Consider hiring a satellite phone and taking an additional spare tyre. Check the road conditions with the Government of South Australia, or contact the Pink Roadhouse in Oodnadatta. Check the conditions before you start on the track, and again before you set out each day. The road conditions can change rapidly and the track can be closed to 2WD or 4WD traffic at any time of year. If it rains, and you are in a 2WD car, you should wait for the track to dry rather than have the unpleasant experience of battling the track in the wet.

Drive

Marree to William Creek

The southeastern end of the track starts in Marree, an uninspiring outback town. Still, it is -- or rather, was -- more important than you might think. This was the staging post for the Afghan camel trains that supplied the South Australian and Northern Territory outback, before they were replaced by the Ghan railway. (As you may have suspected, the name of the railway actually is a corruption of those Afghan camel trains.) Marree also lies at the junction of the Oodnadatta and the Birdsville tracks. Driving the Oodnadatta is quite straightforward: you start at the junction with the Birdsville track, and with very few exceptions it's straight on to Marla. In the first 70 or so kilometers you pass a few railway sidings (Callanna after 15 km, Wangianna after 36 km, Alberrie after 53 km and Bopeechee after 69 km). Between Wangianna and Alberrie, 43 km from Marree, you pass the dog-proof fence, one of the longest human-made barriers in the world. Running for 5,400 km. from the South Australian to the Queensland coast, it is meant to protect the sheep in southeastern Australia from dingo attacks. 85 km from Marree you can take a short side trip (3 km return) to have a look at Lake Eyre South, 12 m. below sea level. This is not the main body of the lake, but a natural extension connected to Lake Eyre proper by the Goyder Channel. Chances are that you won't see much else than a large expanse of salt, as the lake rarely contains water. Do not attempt to drive on the lake -- you won't be the first one to have your vehicle immobilised when the salt crust breaks and you're stuck in the slimy goo underneath. Getting you out might prove very difficult, as other vehicles won't risk driving to where you got stuck. One of the more interesting sidings along the track is Curdimurka, 102 km from Marree. It gives a good impression of how the settlers who looked after the railway line lived. While other sidings have fallen into disrepair, this one is preserved by the Ghan Railway Preservation Society. To finance their effort, an outback ball is held here every two years.

126 km from Marree you can make a worthwhile diversion to the left of the main track