GR 223

Understand

It is known as Sentier des Douaniers ("Custom Officers' Way"); the route is mostly coastal.

Prepare

No permits are required. The trail is marked throughout with red-and-white GR blazes, and apps like Komoot or Visorando can help. The route is mostly flat coastal walking with occasional cliff climbs — sturdy waterproof boots are the main equipment need. The path is not suitable for wheelchairs or prams due to beaches, rocky stretches, and uneven surfaces. Luggage transfer and hiker shuttles are available along parts of the route through services such as La Malle Postale.

Eat Towns and villages at the end of each stage reliably offer restaurants, bakeries, and small shops, so there is no need to carry a stove or significant food reserves. The exception is the wilder stretches around Cap de la Hague and the Cotentin marshes, where services can be sparse — carry extra snacks on those days.

Drink French tap water is safe to drink and available at accommodation, cafés, and town fountains throughout the route. Carry 1–1.5 litres between settlements on quieter sections. Avoid drinking from streams and burns untreated, as agricultural run-off is common along the coast.

Sleep Hotels, B&Bs, gîtes d'étape, and campsites are found at the end of most stages. A sleeping bag is unnecessary if staying in gîtes or hotels, though a lightweight sheet liner is handy at simpler gîtes. Book ahead in summer, as accommodation fills quickly between June and August. Wild camping is not legally permitted in France without landowner consent.

Climate Spring and autumn offer the most pleasant conditions. Normandy is temperate but wet and windy throughout the year, so waterproofs are essential regardless of season. The trail can be done in winter, though days are short, some accommodation closes, and coastal paths become muddy. Take extra care near beaches and estuaries during heavy rain and high tides.

Get in

Honfleur has no train station; reach it by bus from Caen or Le Havre, both well connected to Paris by rail. By car, exit the A13 at Pont-l'Évêque or cross the Pont de Normandie toll bridge from Le Havre. Caen is a major rail hub midway along the route, useful for joining or leaving the trail at the D-Day beaches section. Cherbourg has train connections to Paris Saint-Lazare and along the Cotentin coast, making it a convenient entry or exit point for the northern loop around Cap de la Hague. Granville is served by trains to Paris Montparnasse via Folligny, and is a good access point for the final bay section. Mont Saint-Michel has no direct rail access; take a train to Pontorson then a shuttle bus to the island causeway.

Walk

The GR 223 follows the Normandy coast from 1 Honfleur to 1MISSING WIKILINK Mont Saint-Michel, crossing the coast of Calvados and the Cotentin peninsula before reaching the Breton border. The full walk takes about a month, but many walkers choose shorter sections according to their interests: seaside resorts, D-Day history, wild Cotentin headlands, bird-rich estuaries, or the final approach to the Bay of Mont Saint-Michel.

The walk begins in 2 Honfleur, one of Normandy’s most atmospheric harbour towns. From the old port, the route heads west along the Seine estuary and onto the 3 Côte Fleurie, literally the “Flowery Coast”. This first stage is a gentle introduction to the GR 223, with sea views, wooded slopes, villas, and changing glimpses across the water before reaching the small coastal village of Villerville.

This section continues along the Côte Fleurie through some of Normandy’s best-known Belle Époque resort scenery. The route passes near or through 4 Trouville-sur-Mer and 5 Deauville, known for grand hotels, seaside promenades, beaches, and villas. West of Deauville, the coast becomes quieter again, leading toward Villers-sur-Mer and the cliffs around the Vaches Noires.

Leaving Villers-sur-Mer, the trail follows the transition from resort coast to the chalk and clay cliffs of the Pays d’Auge. This is one of the longer early stages, with wide beaches, exposed cliff-top views, and several small seaside settlements. The route approaches the eastern edge of the 6 Côte de Nacre, the “Mother of Pearl Coast”, as it moves toward the area around the Orne estuary.

This stage enters the D-Day landing coast. The route passes close to Ouistreham and Sword Beach before continuing west along the Côte de Nacre. The walking is generally flatter and more open than on the earlier cliff stages, with long beaches, seaside towns, memorials, and remains of wartime defences. Graye-sur-Mer lies near the Juno Beach sector, making this a historically important part of the GR 223.

A long stage through the heart of the D-Day beaches. From the Juno Beach area, the route continues toward Gold Beach and Arromanches-les-Bains, where remains of the Mulberry harbour can still be seen

Stay safe

Word has it that there are problems with cliff erosion over certain sections, so don't be surprised if you are diverted inland at some points.