GR 20

Understand

The GR 20 is one of Europe's most challenging and iconic long-distance hiking trails, traversing the rugged spine of Corsica from north to south over approximately 180 kilometers. First waymarked in 1972, the route connects Calenzana in the Balagne region to Conca near Porto-Vecchio, cutting through the dramatic high mountains of the Corsican interior. It passes through the Parc Naturel Régional de Corse, a protected area rich in biodiversity, home to wild boar, mouflon, golden eagles, and endemic plant species.

Geographically, the GR 20 crosses some of the island's most remote and mountainous terrain, including jagged ridgelines, deep valleys, alpine lakes, and exposed granite slopes. It offers sweeping views of both the Mediterranean coast and inland peaks, often above 2,000 meters. The trail passes close to the summits of several, so it's possible to take a summit detour. The trail also moves through traditional Corsican shepherding zones and occasional mountain hamlets, where you’ll find remnants of the island’s pastoral heritage and strong cultural identity shaped by centuries of resistance and autonomy. Hikers are likely to encounter Corsican French and some regional Corsican language, along with a fiercely independent mountain culture. The GR 20 is not a casual hike. It demands strong physical fitness, mountain experience, and sure-footedness. Many sections involve scrambling, steep ascents, and technical descents, especially in the northern half. The trail is best suited for experienced hikers seeking a physically and mentally demanding adventure through one of the Mediterranean’s most striking landscapes.

Prepare

The trail is normally done in 16 days if you stay at all the refuges, however, people often do it in less. Some of the stages are very short and can be combined. So don't just naively book all the refuges, do some planning about which stages to combine and which refuges to skip. In addition, you don't always have to stay in refuges: there are some private bergeries and hotels. Sometimes staying in a bergerie or hotel makes more sense if it breaks the route into more manageable stages. Also check transport timetables before making any bookings: buses don't run every day. The route may be walked in either direction. Most people start in the north, however starting in the south creates a nice build up in required effort. Many people walk just half the route, and come back the following year to do the other half. Vizzavona is an ideal place to start or stop, because it has a train station. If you only have time to do half the route, the northern half has the rugged highlights including Monte Cinto, but is slightly longer. The route is very regularly marked with the white and red stripes of the GR symbol. The route is so well marked that if you lose sight of the markers, you must retrace your steps immediately until you find the route again. It is completely possible to do the whole route without a map, but take one, anyway, as a safety backup. Several options for paper maps are available:

Corsica High Route GR20 IGN 89027. One map covering the whole route, plastified for waterproofing. Scale 1:50000. Carte de Randonnée 4149 OT - 4253 OT and 4253 ET (6 maps). Scale 1:25000. Much more expensive because you have to buy six maps. Le GR 20 Corse (Fra li monti). Editions Didier Richard. ISBN 9782344000434. Scale 1:50000.

Eat Refuges along the route provide full board options, offering dinner, breakfast, and packed lunches. Dinner must usually be reserved by 17:00, sometimes as early as 16:30. As of 2022, expect to pay around €20 or more for dinner and about €10 each for breakfast and a packed lunch. Wine and beer are also available, and the local chestnut beer, typically €8 for 50cl, is worth trying. Meals are hearty but simple. Dinner is usually a three-course meal d

Get in

1 Bastia Airport. typically has the cheapest flights. From Bastia Airport to Bastia train station, you can take a bus for €10 as of 2025, but check the timetable to make sure it is running that day. Bastia Airport bus timetable You can also take a taxi, but if the traffic is bad it can cost over €60 (as of 2022).

Calenzana Calenzana is the northernmost point of the route. You can get a bus between Calvi and Calenza for €8 as of 2021. Timetables are here. From 1 July to 4 September, there are two buses each day in both directions. From 5 September, buses from Calvi to Calenzana only run on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday at 15:30, and there are no buses from Calenzana to Calvi. You could walk it in 3 hours, take a taxi, or even hitchhike. You can take a train between Bastia and Calvi for €16.40 as of 2022. Train schedules are here. A taxi from Calvi airport costs approximately €30 as of 2022.

Vizzavona Vizzavona is a good point to the break the route if you only want to do half of it. You can take a train to 2 Gare de Vizzavona. from Bastia or via the Bastia—Ajaccio line. Ajaccio is quickest, you can go straight from the airport. The train between Vizzavona and Bastia town costs €14.60 as of 2022. Train schedules are here.

Conca Conca is the southernmost point of the route. You can get a bus between Bastia and Ste Lucie de Porto-Vecchio (6km from Conca). It does not run every day, see here for details. See Rapides Bleus to view the schedule and book tickets. Price is €30 per person and €1 per bag as of 2026. In July and August only, the northbound bus can drop off passengers directly at Bastia Airport. The bus stop in Ste Lucie de Porto-Vecchio is opposite the Bar U Colombu. To get from Conca to Ste Lucie de Porto-Vecchio, Gîte étape la Tonnelle used to run a shuttle bus, however as of 2024 it is suspended until further notice. You may be able to get an Uber instead, or the hike is 1 hour 15 minutes.

Walk

Starting in 1 Calenzana in the north of Corsica, you can stay at the official Gîte municipal de Calenzana. Restaurants and limited Airbnbs available. Buses run from Calvi, but buses to Calvi only operate until September 4. According to the signposts, it is 6.5 hours from Calenzana to Ortu, or 5 hours Ortu to Calenzana. In practice going north from Ortu to Calenzana can be done comfortably in 4 hours (2 hours from Ortu to Bocca u Saltu (1,250m), then 2 hours winding gradually down a pine-covered slope to Calenzana).

1 Gîte municipal de Calenzana. €15 per bed, limited tent space (no rental tents available). Showers (in poor condition), plenty of plug sockets for charging, good cooking facilities. Spar supermarket is a 5-minute walk away. Book by phone/email or pay cash on arrival (office open from 16:30). 2 Refuge d'Ortu di u Piobbu. No dormitory, tents only (refuge burned down in 2019). One hot shower. Dinner €20 (reserve by 16:30), breakfast €9, packed lunch €9, beer €6. No phone signal or charging. One hot shower. Watch the sunset over the sea.

Trail signs suggest 6-6.5 hours; experienced hikers often complete it in about 5 hours. The trail descends to Refuge de Carrozzu.

3 Refuge de Carrozzu. No phone signal. Sheltered from the sun even at midday, so it can be chilly. Many hikers choose to skip this refuge and complete the Asco to Ortu stage in one day.

From Carrozzu, reach the metal bridge (Passerelle) in about 15 minutes, then continue another 3 hours to Refuge d'Asco Stagnu. Asco is accessible by road. Credit cards accepted everywhere in the town.

4 Refuge d'Asco Stagnu. Good hot showers, plenty of electric sockets, and strong phone signal. 2022 prices: Dinner €19, breakfast €8, packed lunch €9. Also a small shop. The refuge offers better value than most due to competition from the hotel and café. 5 Hotel Le Chalet. The hotel does a buffet breakfast (05:30-08:00) for €14 (2022); you must book the day before. (updated Mar 2026) 6 Snack L'Altore. Open 10:00-19:00. Makes good burgers. (updated Mar 2026)

The sign at Asco says 6-7 hours to Refuge de Tighjettu, but this is likely pessimistic; the return journey from Tighjettu to Asco takes about 5 hours

Stay safe

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