海參崴

城市概覽

The area that is now Vladivostok was historically part of the traditional homeland of the Manchus, who conquered China in the 17th century and established the Qing Dynasty. It was ceded to Russia in the 1858 Treaty of Aigun, one of the many unequal treaties that China was forced to signed with Western colonial powers in the 19th and 20th centuries. Following annexation, the Chinese and Manchu populations were ethnically cleansed from the region, and today, the population is overwhelmingly ethnic Russian. Surrounded by Amursky Gulf from the west, Ussuriysky Gulf from the east, and Golden Horn Bay along the south, Vladivostok is the home of the Russian Pacific Fleet. The city is separated from its southernmost part, Russkiy Island, by the Eastern Bosphorus strait; there are a couple of smaller sparsely populated islands, Reineke and Popov. From its foundation in 1860, as a naval base, the city received the status of free port, that boosted international commerce and development. The October Revolution brought Japanese, American, French and Czechoslovak armies who sided with the Whites. From 1958 to 1992, Vladivostok was off-limits to foreigners; it was finally re-opened for tourism after the fall of the Soviet Union. The city centre, at the edge of the water, has sweeping boulevards of ornate, century-old buildings; magnificent, decaying, and in dire need of a scrub. Further out, on the steep hills overlooking the bay, similarly decaying Soviet blocks dotted with new high-rise buildings provide accommodations for most of the city's residents. There are beautiful oak woods surrounding the city, which along with Nakhodka, could be a starting point for weekend bus-tours to the winter ski-slopes, or waterfalls in summer. A few lotus lakes are an attraction for campers and forest lodgers when the flowers are blossoming in August.

Climate

Vladivostok is at the same latitude with Russian subtropical sea resort of Sochi, but its average annual temperature is nearly 10 degrees lower due to the Siberian High that brings cold winds from Yakutia for much of the winter. Thus the winter is typical for Manchuria: cold, clear and very windy. The snow is scarce and in some years may not fall at all. January is cold at -14°C (7°F), and August is fairly warm at 24°C (75°F), though these are average temperatures, and hot/cold spells can bring much more extreme conditions. It is not unheard of for temperatures to drop below -30°C in February, and similarly August can be over 30°, but in general August and September bring the most sunny and pleasant temperatures. The end of

如何抵達

See Russia#Get in for visa requirements to Russia.

By train

Tickets for the Trans-Siberian Railway sell out and it is best to buy tickets well in advance. Tickets are sold by the operator as well as via agencies and resellers. The main line of the Trans-Siberian Railway runs between Moscow and Vladivostok. Major stops from Vladivostok include Ulan Ude (2 days), Irkutsk (3 days), Krasnoyarsk (4 days), Novosibirsk (4 days), Omsk (5 days), Yekaterinburg (5 days), Nizhni Novgorod (5 days), and Moscow (6 days).

By boat If you enter Russia by boat, you can stay for 72 hours without a Russian visa. For more information, see Russia#Get_in. The ferry port in Vladivostok is right next to the train station.

To/from Korea and Japan Business Intour Service is the official booking agent for ferries operated by The Far Eastern Shipping Company (FESCO) between Vladivostok and the Fushiki port in Takaoka, Japan. The trip costs ¥48,400 including meals (alcohol costs are additional). The ships do not have many working amenities. Ferries both ways leave on Friday evening and arrive two days later on Sunday morning. You'll need to arrive at the port a few hours early for immigration procedures. The Eastern Dream boat of the DBS Ferry Company operates service to/from Donghae, South Korea (US$180+) and Sakai Minato, Japan (US$220+). From March to November the ferry leaves Sakai Minato on Saturdays, briefly stops in Donghae on Sundays and arrives in Vladivostok on Mondays. In the winter, the ferry lays over in Donghae until Monday and arrives in Vladivostok on Tuesday. The nearest major city to Sakai Minato is Kyoto, 3 hours by train. (Update: DBS got bought by a Korean company, here's the website with the prices: http://dwship.co.kr/en/passenger/passenger.asp) There is also a ferry service connecting Vladivostok and Sokcho, South Korea. It costs about US$200 and takes two days. One ship leaves Sokcho each week, on Thursday, although they become more frequent in the summer months (June-August).

By plane 1 Vladivostok International Airport (VVO IATA) (is 40km northeast of Vladivostok, near Artyom). It is the largest airport in the Russian Far East and serves over 1.5 million passengers per year. Flights to/from Vladivostok are to other Russian cities or cities in Korea, China, or Japan. Flights to other Russian cities are relatively cheap, although flights to Japan and Korea are relatively expensive. To travel between the airport and the city:

Bus 107 operates between the airport and the Vladivostok bus station (just in front of the Vladivostok train station),

當地交通

By public transport Vladivostok has a wide range of transportation, from streetcars to a funicular railway. The trams and trolleybuses, unfortunately, are mostly gone in an effort to improve traffic: this hasn't worked, mainly because at least two lanes on most streets are still taken for unregulated parking. However there is talk of reinstating at least some trolleybus routes, and lengthening the network to include some suburban destinations. While the mayor pays some lip service to reinstating trams, too, his actions prove otherwise. By far the most common is the bus, both large route buses (mainly used Korean ones, some could be seen still carrying Seoul or Busan route plaques) and marshrutka shared taxis (which generally follow bus routes). Buses are extremely crowded but frequent; the fares are flat 28 руб for the downtown routes, but go up to 120 руб for suburban ones. Hop on bus in the back and then pay the driver as you exit from the front. Many buses leave from outside the "Clever House" (Cløver House) Department store or the city's train station. Another major bus hubs are the Lugovaya square at the mouth of the Golden Horn bay and the intercity bus station ("Автовокзал") in the Vtoraya Rechka neighborhood.

On the down note, the bus companies are constantly criticized for neglecting the state of their fleets, running the buses well past their service lives, unduly economizing on cleaning and personnel (they tend to hire recent immigrants, who can be paid as little as possible), and creating the competition for the passengers' fare among the drivers, which leads to long delays on stops and reckless driving. The city has reinstated the municipal bus company with newer buses and better controlled drivers. All municipal buses are equipped with electronic payment system and trackers, as the city also pushes to equip all the buses with the tracking hardware. The positions and waiting time for the equipped buses could be seen at the Bus 125 website, and major stops are gradually being equipped with electronic timetables. Access to the outlying areas is generally best done by bus or suburban commuter train elektrichka. The train station is accessible and a great way to see neighbouring cities such as Khabarovsk. The Russian Far East is an enormous and rather sparsely populated territory, so if the closer towns like Ussuriysk and Nakhodka may be just a couple of hours away, Khabarovsk is in a different province altogether, about 700 km from Vladivostok, and takes almost a whole day to reach, so plan accordingly: this is definitely not a quick day tri

必看景點

If you've arrived in Vladivostok on the Trans-Siberian, at the end of a trip that began in Moscow, head straight for Sportivnaya Harbor. The still waters of the sea will likely provide sweet relief after several days on the train. However, if you're fresh off a ferry from Japan or Korea, head up to Svetlanskaya and Ploschad Bortsov Revolutsy for a stroll to get your land legs back. (Both destinations usually have food and drink vendors.) Civil engineering buffs can gawk at the numerous construction marvels peppering the city streets since the 2012 APEC Summit, including the two enormous bridges across the Golden Horn Bay and Eastern Bosporus strait (the Russian Navy officers first exploring the area were big fans of Istanbul harbour), the latter of which is the largest cable-stayed bridge in the world. Locals are more ambivalent about all that construction, but the bridges and hotels nevertheless already have become a frequent visitor attractions, and the Golden Horn one is greatly praised by the locals, as it radically relieved the permanently congested Lugovaya square, taking about half of its traffic.

Public spaces Russia's Pacific Fleet (not all of it, just its destroyer squadron) is moored in Golden Horn Bay. A walk along the waterfront on Korabelnaya Embankment offers the closest views; to get any closer, you will have to enlist. Photographs with an average-sized camera shouldn't attract any problems, but be mindful of your surroundings or an enterprising police officer might invent a fine for you to pay.

1 Ploschad Bortsov Revolutsy (Central Square), Svetlanskaya, between Aleutskaya and Uborevicha. This is a good place to relax and watch the locals at leisure. A pair of massive statues serve as the Memorial to the Fighters for the Soviet Power in the Far East, in honor of those who brought this remote corner of Russia under Bolshevik control. Today, they're more a memorial to the power of local skateboarders. You might also have the chance to take in a protest march. The giant, strikingly ugly regional administration building looms over the square. 2 Sportivnaya Harbor. A popular summertime promenade and beach just the short walk away from the square. The official swimming ban is cheerfully ignored by the locals, who frolic in the water between the yachts of the main city marina, which mostly shares the location with the beach. A small amusement park with various kiddy rides and 80 m Ferris wheel lines the other side of the promenade, and the stalls around will sell you drinks, snacks and souvenirs for outrageous prices. 3 The square of the

體驗活動

If you'd like to swim, the beach at Sportivnaya Harbor is the place to do it (not Golden Horn Bay, where the Pacific Fleet is parked). Be sure to salute the half-submerged mermaid statue out in the water - when they finally fish it out of the water, that is, the statue was driven off its foundation by the shifting ice and sunk several years ago. Alternately, in the winter, locals aren't shy about strolling out on ice.

1 Russkiy Island (Остров 'Русский'). The closest and the largest island, connected by two bridges, is a nice place for swimming, sun-bathing, or biking on the gravel roads as an alternative to the city's beach. Discover the disfunctioning artillery, 'Voroshilovskaya Battery' (Ворошиловская батарея), the former Soviet defensive complex, now a museum in the center of the island. Bus 29d from the Izumrud bus station in the center of Vladivostok, every hour or so, 23 руб. Serious hikers can consider going to the terminus Bukhta Voyevoda and then walking the dirt roads along the South-West coast before catching the bus back at the Park Patriot entrance. (updated Nov 2018) 2 Dinamo Stadium, ul Batareynaya, just off Sportivnaya Harbor. Home of FC Luch-Energia Vladivostok, who play in the Russian Premier League of professional soccer (or down in the First Division, as their fortunes go). SK Olimpiets. Home of Spartak Primorje, who play in the Russian Super League of professional basketball. 3 Yacht Club 'Seven Feet' (Яхт-клуб 'Семь футов'), office #24, 17, Leitenanta Shmidta St, [email protected]. Organized fishing, daily sea walks as well as annual boat show. 4 Fetisov Arena (Фетисов-Арена), 690024, 284 Makovskogo st. (Suburb, just across the highway from the "Sputnik" platform), ☏ +7(423) 230-33-14, [email protected]. The home arena of the city's KHL outfit, HC 'Admiral', refer to the KHL calendar for the game days; also provides spaces for concerts, exhibitions and other gigs. An amateur Night Hockey League games are often held at night, and a public skating rink is also open during the whole hockey season.

Events Every September, golden season by balneological standards, the city holds the Pacific Meridian International Film Festival and welcomes Russian cinematographic beau monde and often first stars from the West like Gérard Depardieu. International Jazz Festival — Vladivostok, organized by Vladivostok Philharmonic. Every last Sunday of September - Tiger's day

購物

There's a GUM (former Kunst&Albers) department store on Svetlanskaya, across from Ploschad Bortsov Revolutsii, and electronic stores further east that can help with power converters and the like. Local markets are spread throughout Vladivostok and provide the basic groceries for a neighborhood. Some even have a butcher but most all provide sausages and frozen meat. Larger markets sell clothing, shoes, and everything else imaginable in addition to food.

1 Sportivnaya Market (Tramway station "Sportivnaya"). The largest market in Vladivostok. Its maze-like warrens are full of people selling most everything. There is a large Chinese presence here, and knockoffs and Chinese imports abound. The range of food sold at this market is fabulous but is probably a bit unusual for everyday fare. Free. (updated Oct 2018) 2 Mir Pryazhi (World of Yarn), 10 Semyonovskaya St (off Aleutskaya St), ☏ +7 4232 220640. Daily 11:00-18:00. A nice place to buy local crafts (handmade jewellery, knitwear, porcelain beads). The shop also sells yarn and handcraft items. 3 Sinyaya Ptitsa (Blue Bird), 46 Russkaya St (to Vtoraya Rechka), ☏ +7 9244 296159, [email protected]. Daily 11:00-18:00. A variety of Vladivostok's souvenirs, Russian handmade folk ceramics Gzhel.

美食

Budget Small kiosks sell samosas and other local snacks for 100 руб or so. For fast food, Hesburger, Cinnabon, Royal Burger, Bubo, Bite Burger, RestoGrad (РестоГрад), Country Fried Chicken, restaurant network Republic (Республика) can be easily found in the centre. Burger King is among the representatives of the world fast-food networks.

1 8 Minut Stolovaya, Ulitsa Aleutskaya, 11. A buffet restaurant (updated May 2022)

Mid-range Sunday morning brunch at the Vlad Inn (below) is a tradition for the handful of ex-pats living in the city.

2 bar «Drugoe mesto» (Bar «PlaceDifferent»), Ulitsa Admirala Fokina, 16А (City centre, just steps away from main city square), ☏ +7 4232408143. 12:00-02:00. Nice little bar filled with strange & interesting artefacts from all over the world. Good cuisine - mostly European. Perfect coffee. Desserts & ice-cream. Wide variety of drinks & cocktails. The staff speak English. 500-1000 руб. 3 Osama Sushi (Осама-суши), 13 Praporschika Komarova St (City centre, Praporschika Komarova/Krayevaya Bolnitsa bus stops, on the hill slope between them), ☏ +7 423 230-20-22, [email protected]. Su-Th 12:00-24:00, F Sa 12:00-02:00. Pan-Asian restaurant, Japanese and Korean cuisine. Nice sushi and fantastic bibimbap, sake and soju. 1000-1500 руб. 4 Café Cuckoo, 1A Okeanskiy Prospect (city centre, near the overseas passenger terminal and main city square), ☏ +7 4232 995858. 23:00-02:00, closed on Mondays and Tuesday. This nightclub also offers contemporary European cuisine for lunch and dinner. The head chef, Adriano Cavalieri, came from Melbourne, Australia. There is outdoor and indoor seating for approximately 100 people. 5 Moloko & Med (Молоко и мёд, Milk & Honey), 6A Suhanova St (city centre, opposite Suhanova square), ☏ +7 4232 589090. 10:00-24:00 daily. European cuisine in a very nice and stylish atmosphere very popular with foreigners and expats. The staff speak English and an English-language menu is available. There is also a selection of Russian dishes on the menu. There are outdoor and indoor seating areas. 6 Hans, 25a, Fokina st (city centre), ☏ +7 423 240-68-75. German food and house-brewed beer of three colours: red, light and dark served in medieval setting. The first floor is a fireplace hall, the second floor is made for dance and filled with live music. Comprises 60 and 100 visitors respectively. 1000-1500 руб. 7 München, 3, Svetlanskaya st (city centre, from the central square to Naberezhnaya, down in the basement), ☏ +7 423 241-34-54, [email protected]. German food and house-brewed wheat beer of three colours: red, l

飲品與夜生活

1 Club Cuckoo, 1A Okeanskiy Prospect (Centre, near the overseas passenger terminal and main square), ☏ +7 423 299-58-58. F Sa 23:00-06:00. The most glamorous night club in the city. There can be very strict rules of who's let in but foreigners usually pass, just speak English. Hosts the best parties in town, including DJs from Moscow and London. ticket 500 руб at door; drinks 150-350 руб. Lebowski Bar (Лебовски Бар), 56 Svetlanskaya St, ☏ +7 953 210-71-74. Disco music, a bar and a dance-floor. Next door is 8 Minut Stolovaya where you can enjoy a decadent dessert.

住宿

Dorms Russian dorm rooms in Vladivostok range from awful to OK. Generally, foreigners are dormed in reasonable accommodations, but you should know exactly what you are getting into before arriving. Important things you might take for granted include: private or communal kitchen and bathrooms, number of roommates, number of clothing washers and dryers. The Far Eastern National University (above) offers reasonable dorm rooms but foreigners are separated from Russian students, so if you are looking for more Russian immersion, ask them about arranging a home stay.

Hostels 1 Neptunea Hostel Vladivostok, 20A/6, Uborevicha St (First find the tiny residential slope between Ulitsa Uborevicha 20 and Ulitsa Uborevicha 22, then climb it for 150 meters), ☏ +7 (950) 291-47-72, [email protected]. 24/7. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Hostel in the city center. Very cheap and new. Small breakfast included, WiFi, kitchen and fridge, inside and outside lounge areas. Customer are half Russian and half foreigners. Price starts from 500 руб. (updated Oct 2018) 2 Hostel Optimum, Aleutskaya 17, ☏ +7 423 272 9111, [email protected]. 3 Superstar Guesthouse, 8A Admirala Fokina Street, ☏ +7-914-667-5645, [email protected]. New guesthouse, a bit more expensive but right in the most touristic part of the city center. The Korean owner also lives there. 1000 руб for dormitory, 2400 руб for a double room. (updated Oct 2018)

Hotels The hotels in the city center are targets for huge tour groups, who block out availability for weeks on end, so reserve in advance if possible.

4 Lotte Hotel Vladivostok, 29 Semenovskaya St, ☏ +7 4232 40-22-33, [email protected]. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 12:00. The height of luxury in Vladivostok, with full business facilities, swimming pool and fitness center, bar, casino, and restaurant on-site. Rooms have satellite TV and air conditioning. Online booking is available. From 6000 руб. 5 AZIMUT Hotel Vladivostok, 9 and 10, Naberezhnaya St, ☏ +7 423 241 28 08, [email protected]. This is the new name for Hotel Vladivostok. 2500-8300 руб. 6 A-Hotel Amur Bay Vladivostok (Unusual rooftop entrance), ☏ +7 423 241 28 08, [email protected]. Also managed by the AZIMUT group, but cheaper. (updated Sep 2018) 7 Meridian, 5 Ochakovskaya St, ☏ +7 4232 650-444, [email protected]. An experienced tourist can take a taxi and get to the opposite shore of Golden Horn bay according to the hotel site's map. Sauna and restaurant are nice additions to accommodations. From US$50 for a stan

順遊推薦

The Trans-Siberian Railway will be the means of exit by most, either heading west towards Moscow or into China. The next major stop is the Russian city of Khabarovsk, some 700 km (435 mi) off. Smaller Ussuriysk may be an interesting city for eager traveller as well as a connection point to China. As a side trip visit Nakhodka. North Korea's airline Air Koryo offers flights to Pyongyang.