North Uist

城市概覽

It is remarkable how many fights and feuds have contested this poor farmland, which lacks a fishing industry or mineral wealth. North Uist, like the rest of the Highlands and Islands, was drained of its population at first by gradual voluntary emigration, then in the 19th century by brusque eviction to make way for sheep farming. Its hills were also turned over to grouse-shooting and deer-stalking. In Sollas in 1849 there was a pitched battle between residents and evicting officers, but it didn't halt the process. The 20th century saw a slow revival of Gaelic language and culture, and of the crofting way of life. The Outer Hebridean islands had fragmented governance until 1975 when the Western Isles Council (Comhairle nan Eilean Siar) was formed. There was also European funding for indigenous minority cultures, and later a sympathetic Scottish parliament, so today two-thirds of North Uist's population speak Gaelic. Ro-ro ferries made visitor and truck access from the mainland easier, and the island's Protestant Sabbatarians were unable to block the introduction of Sunday ferries in 1989. The landscape is undeniably stark, it's not "picturesque" like Skye. But it has a haunting quality as the sea breeze ruffles the marram grass by long summer beaches, or winter dark skies display the stars and aurora.

如何抵達

By plane 1 Benbecula (BEB IATA) is the airport for the Uists, a short drive south across the causeway. Loganair fly daily from Glasgow taking an hour, and M-F from Stornoway on Lewis taking 35 min. Buses between North and South Uist run past the airport.

By boat 2 Lochmaddy has Calmac ferries from Uig on Skye, with one or two per day year-round taking 1 hr 45 min. Buses from Glasgow Buchanan station connect with the ferries at Uig, which is effectively on the mainland since Skye is linked by a bridge. Another route is from Mallaig on the mainland to Lochboisdale on South Uist. It sails daily Apr-Oct taking 3 hr 30 min, then you have a long drive north up the causeways. From November to March there's no sailing Tuesday or Thursday, and some ferries ply from Oban (a 5-hour crossing) instead of Mallaig. 3 Berneray, linked by road to North Uist, has a car ferry from Leverburgh on Harris. This sails 3 or 4 times per day, taking one hour. For your own boat, Lochmaddy has a small marina which charges £2 per metre of boat length per night. There are also some mooring buoys at £10 per night.

By road The Uists have long been linked by causeways. The road across these is well clear of the sea and passable in all tides and weathers except for the worst Atlantic winds and waves. Northbound (as B893) the road crosses to Berneray, the ferry port for Leverburgh on Harris, and ends. Southbound (as A865) it crosses to Grimsay then Benbecula, with the airport. It continues down the long thin island of South Uist to Lochboisdale, which has ferries for Mallaig. Lastly it crosses onto Eriskay, which has ferries to Barra. Buses W10, 16 and 17 run M-Sa along the chain of islands, integrated with ferries so you can travel in a day between Stornoway on Lewis and Castlebay on Barra, though only one service per day plies the entire route. North Uist, being midway, has more connections, with four from Stornoway, six from Tarbert on Harris, six from Benbecula and South Uist, and thr

當地交通

By road The terrain is low-lying and easy for cycling, though the breeze is often stiff. All roads are single-track with passing places. Drivers, please observe the traditional Highland etiquette: always give way to mad fellows in white vans who are driving at Mach 2 to try to catch the ferry. There is no car hire on North Uist, see Benbecula for hire firms based at the airport. You can take the hired car to other islands and may be permitted to drop-off there, but may not take it to the mainland. Bus W18 loops clockwise (twice per day) and anticlockwise (once per day) along the island's main road, from Lochmaddy and back. It doesn't cross to Berneray or Benbecula. There are additional part route services, some of which require a telephone booking the day before.

Taxi Taxis are scarce on the Uists and the distances are large, so don't expect that the drivers will be willing to take every fare.

Menzies Private Hire, based in Carinish on the West Coast, 07833 357241. Buchanan I & M, based in Benbecula, 01870 602277.

必看景點

Lochans are common on the Outer Hebrides but on North Uist the terrain is dotted with hundreds of little lochs. Some are inlets of the sea, others are peaty lakes, often just pond-sized. Taigh Chearsabhagh, Lochmaddy HS6 5AA (by hotel 200 yards from ferry pier), ☏ +44 1870 603970. M-Sa 10AM-4PM. Excellent art centre with a museum and gallery, a cafe, post office and a shop. Built in 1741 as an inn, it became an arts centre in 1993. (updated Sep 2023) Sponish Suspension Bridge carries the footpath across a sea inlet north of Lochmaddy to the Camera Obscura. In 2023 it's in need of repair and officially closed; form your own judgement on whether to cross. Otherwise take the lane from the head of the inlet onto Siginish peninsula. This continues to Cheesebay. 1 Camera Obscura (Hut of the Shadows), Sponish HS6 5AF. The hut is open 24 hours but is only worth visiting on a sunny day. Enter the stone chamber and within is projected a view of Lochmaddy. Close the gate, or the sheep will get in. Free. (updated Sep 2023)

Loch Portain is the convoluted bay east of the Camera Obscura, with over 200 islets and a mix of fresh-water and sea habitats. Please never let MV Loch Portain the Berneray-Harris ferry wander in here. 2 Cheesebay is the end of the road from Siginish, not so much a settlement as a crossroads of farm lanes. Islands in view nearby are Stromay west, Sursay north and Tahay east, all uninhabited since the 19th century. 3 Dun Torcuill is tumbledown but the best-preserved broch on North Uist, an Iron Age fortified dwelling on a loch islet reached by a causeway. 4 Dun an Sticir, Port nan Long HS3 5AZ. 24 hours, but access is tidal. A stout Iron Age broch, built circa 100 BC to 100 AD, but in the medieval period converted to a rectangular hall. It's on an islet reached by causeway from the larger islet of Eilean na Mi-Chomhairle, in turn reached by causeways from either north or south banks of the loch. Sticir means "skulker". In 1602 Hugh MacDonald of Sleat was a f

體驗活動

Check the tides, as several sights are on tidal islets. Get a free seven day prediction from Easytide using Lochmaddy as the reference port. Walk, cycle, and watch for bird life. Beaches are sandy but exposed, however the gradual shelving of the shore means you don't get breakers for surfing. Fishing is from shore by the many freshwater and sea-lochs. Hebridean Way is a way-marked hiking and cycling trail the length of the Outer Hebrides. Stage 6 for hikers starts from Carinish near the causeway from Benbecula. It heads north around Locheport to the prehistoric monuments at Langlass then joins the road into Lochmaddy. Stage 7 continue