Khabarovsk

城市概覽

Overlooking the confluence of the Amur and Ussuri Rivers, Khabarovsk is the second largest city in the Russian Far East, approaching 600,000 residents and growing. It is also the capital of both Khabarovsk Krai and the Far Eastern Federal District. Unlike Vladivostok, the city has never been closed to foreigners, and retains a distinct international feel, rare for the Russian provincial centers – a feeling propped up by an increasing Asian presence with arrivals from Asian countries now numbering over a million each year. In turn, Asians come here to experience a piece of Europe close to home, with the fortunate effect that the city is spending huge swaths of money renovating the city, in which old classical buildings were spared much of the destructive effects of the 1917-23 civil war, to provide its visitors with just that feeling. From a European's perspective, Soviet city planning has unmistakably taken its toll, but it is still far more attractive than your average Siberian city.

Climate

The climate is temperate and monsoonal, with a cold, dry winter and a hot and humid summer. The average temperature for a full year is just 2°C, but covers over wide span of monthly averages ranging from a bone chilling −20°C in January to a quite warm +21°C average in July. The city sees an average of 686 mm precipitation in a year, but unfortunately the lions' share falls in the warm summer months. The number of sunny days per year is 70, which is higher than Moscow's 54. Climate-wise, end of May - early June or end of August - early September are the best time for a visit.

History

The lands near the confluence of the Ussury and the Amur, where today's Khabarovsk stands, have been populated for centuries by the indigenous Tungusic people. Chinese expeditions reached this area as early as the first half of the 15th century, and in the mid-17th century the Amur Valley became the scene of hostilities between the Russian Cossacks, trying to expand into the region, and the rising Manchu Qing Dynasty, bent on securing the region for itself. Nearly a century of skirmishes between the Chinese, Koreans and Cossacks followed, one of those involving Russian explorer Yerofey Khabarov, whose name the city later adapted. The Treaty of Nerchinsk (1689) brought the conflict to a close and made the area an undisputed part of the Chinese Qing Empire. According to French Jesuits mapping the Ussury and the Amur rivers in 1709, the future site of Khabarovsk was known to the Chinese as Yupi Dazi ("Fishskin Tartars"). In 1858, the area was ceded to Russia under the Treaty

如何抵達

By plane 1 Khabarovsk Novy Airport (KHV IATA), Matveevskoe shosse, 28. Khabarovsk's airport mainly functions as a refueling and emergency landing point for polar flights between North America and Asia. The main carriers in the region are Asiana Airlines, SAT Airlines and Far Eastern Aviation. There are scheduled passenger flights to Khabarovsk from Japan, China, North Korea, South Korea, and Israel. Asiana serves Khabarovsk 3 times/week from Seoul. Russian domestic flights to Khabarovsk are served from Moscow, Saint Petersburg, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, Vladivostok, Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, Magadan, Chita, Irkutsk, Yakutsk, Novosibirsk, Krasnoyarsk, Yekaterinburg, Krasnodar.

By train 2 Khabarovsk railway station (Habarovsk 1), Leningradskaya, 58, ☏ +7 4212 38-39-40. Khabarovsk station, listed as Habarovsk 1 in most train schedules, is a major stop on the Trans-Siberian Railway. There are several trains each day bound for Vladivostok (800 km) and Moscow (about 8500 km) along the main Trans-Siberian line. Other options include trains #386 or #035 to Blagoveshchensk, #325 for Tynda, #667э for Komsomolsk, #943э Vanino, all on the Baikal-Amur Mainline. Vanino is an interesting option as it allows ferry connections to Sakhalin and further on to Wakkanai in Japan – more details in the Russia to Japan via Sakhalin itinerary. The international trains are Khabarovsk-Harbin, ongoing twice a week and Khabarovsk-Pyongyang on special days.

By boat 3 River Port, Shevchenko 1. If you want to go to places upstream on the Amur river, the Meteor speedboats will often be your transport of choice, but only during the summer when the river is navigable. However, in 2008, the water level in the river was at a historic low, so that the Meteor traffic had to be stopped. If Meteor traffic functions normally, you can go some 1,000 km downstream to the Ul'chi municipal district (rayon), a region mostly inhabited by indigenous Ul'chi people.

Fuyuan – In spring and summer there are daily hydrofoil services to Fuyuan in northeastern China, departing from the ferry terminal facing the Amur river. Komsomolsk – If you are heading for the BAM line up north, an interesting option is to take a hydrofoil cruising up the Amur river to Komsomolsk (6 hours), and catch a train from there.

當地交通

The best thing to start with is to walk around the center of the city. Have a nice walk from Lenin Square to the Amur River via the main street, Muravieva-Amurski. You will find all sorts of shops and places to eat.

By tram The city has a network of four tram lines (there is no line 3 or 4). The most useful section for visitors is the stretch of the network running from the main railway station along Amursky Boulevard, before making a left turn down Volochaevskaya St. (near the market), and crossing Muravyov-Amursky Street one block west of Lenina Square, it then continues south intersecting Lenina Street roughly at its halfway point, before a stop at the botanical gardens (Lines 1, 2 & 6). The remainder of the network mainly extends into the sleepy suburbs. Line 5 serves the North, Line 1 and 2 the South along Krasnorechenskaya St.

By bus The electric trolleybuses also has a few useful sections for visitors, Line 1 runs between the Airport and Komsomolskaya Square (River promenade, Museum cluster) along Karla Marksa and Mureava Amursky streets.

The regular bus number 1, is a useful circle line. It starts at the Railway station, turns down Seryshev street (a block north of Amursky Boulevard) until it reaches the river park at Lenin Stadium. Turns down Komsomolskaya Street (and square) and runs south until Lenina Street. It then runs the entire length of Lenina street before north at the City History Museum and returns to the train station.

Major destinations Airport 18, T1, T2, T4 Botanical Gardens' 9, 25, 29, 33, 54 City History Museum 1, 54, 56, 57, T5 Komsomolskaya Square 1, 9, 14, 19, 29, 34, 38, 55, 56, T1, T3 Lenina Square 14, 19, 21, 29, 34, 38, 55, 56, T1, T3 Railway Station 1, 6, 7, 11, 13, 20, 22, 24, 26, 34, 54, 57, T2, T5 Slavy (Glory) Square 1, 9, 29, 33, 34, 56

必看景點

The Far Eastern Museums There is a fantastic cluster of top notch museums along Shevchenko Street, just behind the tall blue-domed Church of Theotokos on Komsomolskaya Square towards the river and stadium. Not only are the museums some of the best in the far east, they also make their home in some impressive century-old buildings dating back to before the revolution. After a visit, the nice river promenade is just a short walk away, so you can wash all that new found knowledge away with some pivos in good company.

1 Far East Regional Museum (Хабаровский краеведческий музей), 11 Shevchenko St, ☏ +7 4212 312 054. 10:00-18:00. One of the oldest museums in the Russian far east, laid out in 6 sections in an impressive 1894 red-brick building. For the most part it's leaps and bounds ahead of the region's other museums, and with nearly half a million artifacts in the collection, they can afford to be picky about what they display. The ethnographic section with displays of indigenous cultures from around the Amur is unusually informative, but the zoology section is also worth a look, stuffed animals galore! To top it off, it has been renovated, and they even have a few English captions here and there. May be worth considering but the price for foreigners is high for what you see. 300 руб. 2 Far Eastern Art Museum (Дальневосточный художественный музей), 7 Shevchenko St, ☏ +7 4212 328 338. Tu–Su 10:00-17:00. Established in the 1930s and now housed in the building of a former officers' club. They seem to take most pride in their collection of Far Eastern aboriginal art, but they also have a rare collection of ancient Russian religious icons and Japanese porcelain. In the classic exhibition they have a few painters you may have heard of like Titian and Garofalo, but also some lesser known Russian masters. Foreigners 150 руб. 3 Far Eastern Military Museum (Военно-исторический музей ДВО), 20 Shevchenko St (across from the Art Museum), ☏ +7 4212 326 350. Tu–Su 10:00-17:00. Another impressive building from the turn of the 20th century, this one was the state bank up until the 1930s. Weapons galore propped up by medals and other memorabilia. If you are not interested in these sort of things, you can probably give it a miss, but they have a few cool war propaganda posters from the Great Patriotic War and a luxury officers' railway carriage from the 1920s in the courtyard, if you need to entertain yourself for a while while any male company goes into boy mode. Tucked away just across the next street behind the military museum, you also find the Archeology Museum on T

體驗活動

In addition to these listings there are also a Drama Theatre and a Children's 'Theatre, but they are probably not of much interest unless you speak Russian. Nonetheless, the city has a fairly vibrant cultural life.

1 City Beach (Хабаровский пляж). Pictured on the right, the beach on the River Promenade just below the cathedral is hugely popular with pedestrians on warm summer days and packed with sunbathers — so much so that it's easy to forget you are over 300 km away from the nearest piece of coast. It is possible to take a quick dip, but stay very close to land as the current is strong, and keep in mind there are old world Chinese and Russian industries upstream. Usually there are some inflatable slides set up for kids. (updated Mar 2020) 2 Durminskoye Reserve (Дурминское), 30 km south of the town of Durmin (a 3- to 5-hour drive from Khabarovsk), ☏ +7 924 210-27-00. Home to the last Siberian Tigers left in the wild. A reserve created for the preservation of the Amur tiger population living in the area, as well as other predators and other animals. (updated May 2025) 3 Khabarovsk Philarmony (Хабаровская краевая филармония), 7 Shevchenko St, [email protected]. If the language of classic music is more understandable for you than the tongue of Russian artists, this is the place you might enjoy. The whole Far Eastern Orchestra and Organ performers in the downtown are all for your pleasure. The big hall of Philarmony is just the next door to the Museum of Arts and open every day. 4 Gaidara Children's Park (Детский парк им. Гайдара), 2 Leo Tolstoy St. A small amusement park opposite the large Dynamo park to the north of the center. The amusements are mainly for kids, with a small roller-coaster, bouncy castles and swings, and a few cafés for eating. Most interesting if you have kids, but there is a gaming arcade at the north end with a bowling alley, slot machines and fusball tables for the more grown up. 5 Khabarovsk Circus (Хабаровский цирк), 120 Krasnorechenskaya St (Gagarin Park), ☏ +7 4212 365 622. Performances: F 16:00; Sa Su 12:00 & 16:00. Khabarovsk Circus had a brand new home constructed a few years back, in an impressive building in Gagerin Park. There will usually be guest performances from all over Russia or even China, as well as from a range of circus animals — including of course, bears. 60 руб. 6 Theatre of Musical Comedy (Хабаровский краевой музыкальный театр), 64 Karla Marksa St (in Dynamo Park), ☏ +7 4212 227 021. The oldest theatre in Khabarovsk Krai performs classical and modern operettas as well as occasional comedies in a huge bomb

購物

The Vyborg Market. 09:00-19:00. (Международный торговый центр 'Выборгский') on Vyborgskaya Street is a huge and very lively market, with not only local Russians but also a visible example of the proximity to China — many Chinese traders selling imported products of every variety under the sun, e.g. domestic appliances, toys, cutlery and clothing, from their home country. There is also a couple of huge indoor halls with locals selling fruits, vegetables and meat. It's well worth a stroll, even if you don't plan on buying anything. The Central Department Store (ЦУМ - Центральный универмаг г. Хабаровска), 23 Muraveva-Amur St (About halfway between Lenina Sq. and the cathedral), ☏ +7 4217 304 195. 09:00-20:00. 3 floors of high-end shopping in a nice old building, renovated inside out a couple of years back, but it's actually the oldest business in the city. Fashion, electronics, watches, perfumery and other stuff along those lines. Also has an ATM that takes international credit cards. Hudozhestvennye Salony (Художественный салон), 15 Muravyov-Amursky St, ☏ +7 4212 311 921. 10:00-19:00. Means "Art salon", all Russian handicrafts slightly cheaper than its next door neighbour. Good place to get the ritual Matreshka doll purchase over and done with, since they are good quality here, though certainly not cheap. Also has a good selection of jewelery and Khokhloma items — a traditional Russian wood painting handicraft, though if you're heading west, you might want to wait for Nizhny Novgorod where they originate. . Tainy Remesla (Тайны ремесла), 17 Muravyov-Amursky St, ☏ +7 4212 327 385. 10:00-19:00. Inside the impressive old city Duma building (see picture above) is probably the best place in town to buy souvenirs, but bring a pair of pants with deep pockets, because you'll need them to buy most of what you see in the shop; art works by the far east's aboriginal peoples, Khokhloma goods, art, jewelery, stone and amber handicrafts and even toys. NK City (НК Сити), 76 Karl Marx St. 10:00-20:00. A large prestigious supermarket in the city's center located at the road junction offering a good deal of cheap food, brand clothes and electronic stuff with a 3D cinema on the 5th floor and a couple of small restaurants.

美食

The local cuisine consists primarily of traditional Russian restaurants and different Asian-style places. Italian food is also common. However, there's a great variety of cheap fast-food outlets on the streets. Prices start from $3 for good snack to US$5–10 at the Golden Bird fast food chain. Meals in small restaurants are available for US$10–20. If money is not a concern, you can dine with a view of sunset and the Amur River at Hotel "Inturist" for US$50–100.

1 Chocolate, 74 Turgeneva St (near the cathedral), ☏ +7 421 242-00-97. Su-W 08:00-02:00, Th-Sa 24hrs. A stylish, modern looking cafe-like eatery with an international menu, cappuccino, and free wireless access. 2 Kabachok (Кабачок), 84, Zaparina st (Opposite the entrance of the cinema 'Gigant' in the city center), ☏ +7 421 260-03-77. Ukrainian restaurant. Khlebomyas, Ulitsa Murav'yeva-Amurskogo, 5, ☏ +7 421 294-24-42. Daily 08:00-05:00. Burgers and fries and coffee bar. 3 Russki Restaurant (Русский Ресторан), Ussuriyskiy Bul'var, 9, ☏ +7 421 230 65 87. 12:00-01:00. Russki means Russian, and that is exactly what you can expect; cozy if tacky decór – Datcha (log cabin) style, complete with a Banya (costs extra), the waiters are dressed in Russian national clothes, and one of the four halls usually has live Russian folk music. Even if that's not your thing, you can't hold anything against the food: expect tasty classic Russian fare like blinis, patties, borscht, or the good sizzling sturgeon or meat served on warm stones. All can be washed down with tea from the samovar.

Fast food Tablespoon (Столовая «Ложка»), Ulitsa Dikopol'tseva, 29 (50m from the Muravyov Amursky st). daily 09:00-21:00. Pick items off a buffet line. Golden Bird, 7, Muravyov Amursky st (Trade center 'Lotos', the entrance is at the left hand). McDonald's-style eatery.

飲品與夜生活

Locals will happily teach you how to drink Russian-style. People are very friendly, and in general you will find lots of locals who would love to practice their English. Don't miss an offer to visit a Russian banya (sauna) somewhere outside the city. For the most part you should avoid the pubs and bars if weather permits, and indulge in the many beer tents instead. The River Promenade (Набережная Хабаровска) below the large cathedral is a lively place in the summer months, open air cafes in large tents, dot the promenade along the river. Most bars play different styles of music, and there is usually live music going on in one of the tents. There is a young crowd, and some establishments stay open till very late. This is also the starting point for a host of river boats, taking the party-going crowd on short cruises down the river with loud music banging out of the speakers. Dynamo Park (Парк Динамо) also has some beergarten style watering holes along long benches beneath coloured lanterns and Russian schlagers blasting out the speakers.

Cabaret Saloon Harley-Davidson, Ulitsa Murav'yeva-Amurskogo, 5 (same building as where Khlebomyas is located), ☏ +7 421 294-24-42. Located in the historic center, this is not a biker's pub, but a full-fledged restaurant. 1 Crossroad, Ulitsa Murav'yeva-Amurskogo, 3б, ☏ +7 421 294-13-13. Dance and karaoke floors, selection of cocktails and hookah choices, snacks, middle-age crowd welcome, too. Velikano, Ulitsa Zaparina, 67а, ☏ +7 914 544 46 64. F-Sa 22:00-06:00. It's a bit Russian, with a lot of Russian pop and youngsters. Two dance floors and competent bartenders. Cover charge 150-350 руб. (updated Feb 2021) 2 Bonifatsiy Bar (Бонифаций Бар), Ulitsa Lenina, 19, ☏ +7 421 220 25 45. Kind of like going to the bar at the circus, given the theme. Also on the premises is another establishment called Pushkin Yard. (updated Feb 2021)

Coffee Shokoladnitsa at Komsomolskaya street, 78 08:00-24:00. All-Russian brand cafes offering a variety of coffee and chocolate drinks. Rock-bar 'Garazh' (Гараж), Ulitsa Volochayevskaya 15, ☏ +7 421 245-67-67. M Th Su 12:00-2:00, F Sa 12:00-.... Stylish and cosy cafe with live sound, Russian-European food, coffee and theme parties.

住宿

No hostels and not many unrenovated Soviet rooms, so accommodation is pretty steep — on the other hand, the situation is not much different from the rest of Russia. If the situation is desperate and you have a valid ISIC card, you could try to see if the university will hook you up with a room in their dorms — though call ahead instead of showing up on the day. If not, rooms can go as low as 1000 руб if you look around and book well ahead of arrival.

1 Abricol Hotel (Гостиница Абриколь), 138 Voronezhkaya St (Bus 6 or 57 from the railway station), ☏ +7 421 266-00-00. About a kilometer north(west) of the railway station on the outskirts of town, offers 28 modern rooms within a larger entertainment complex which also includes a restaurant, two bars, billiards, a bowling alley and a sauna/pool. The hotel is hard to reach by public Transport, taxi from city center costs about 250 руб. 2250-5000 руб. 2 Ali Hotel (Гостиница «Али»), 17 Mukhin St, ☏ +8 4212 217 888. It is an up-scale choice with 24 rooms overlooking the city ponds. Has a swimming pool, casino and fitness facilities. 3500-11000 руб. 3 Amur Hotel (Гостиница «Амур»), 29 Lenina St, ☏ +7 4212 221 223. Classic building on Lenina street, though it lost some of it grand old-world charm when it was renovated in 2005, and the 78 rooms are for the most part very kitschy. 2450-4500 руб. 4 Intourist Hotel (Гостиница «Интурист»), 2 Amursky Blvd, ☏ +8 4212 326 507. 283 rooms divided into singles, doubles and triples, all have air condition and Sat-TV. Big, bombastic and Soviet in appearance, but at least the service has much improved since those days, though you may still find it lagging compared to Western European standards. Accepts major international credit cards. 2750-8200 руб. (updated Aug 2020) 5 Parus Business Center Hotel (Бизнес-Центр Парус), 5 Shevchenko St, ☏ +7 4212 327 270. Possibly the best located hotel in town, though the noise from the river promenade is reported to sometimes get disturbing for those of the 82 rooms which are facing the Amur river. Unusually for Russia parts of the hotel are located in a classic pre-soviet brick building, and the rooms are spotless in the new wing. On-site Bar, Spa/Sauna, Restaurant and conference/meeting facilities. 5200-28500 руб with suites going up to 16000 руб. Boutique-Hotel “Khabarovsk City” (Бутик-отель Хабаровск Сити), 64 Istomina St, ☏ +7 421 276-76-76. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. Boutique-hotel “Khabarovsk City” is located in the central part of the city not far from the Amur River. It is a modern beautiful building of 2008. There are 4

順遊推薦

Bolshekhekhtsirsky Nature Reserve – the closest reserve of endemic plants and animals. Bogorodskoye (Богородское) – the district centre of Ul'chi rayon, should be reachable within one day on the Meteor boat. However, be prepared that getting back is harder than getting there. Whereas you can easily book your ticket downstream in Khabarovsk, return tickets are available only on the vessel, and they are sold on a first come-first served basis. Bogorodskoye is starting to develop eco tourism. To get to the surrounding villages, you need to hire a boat, as many of them are accessible only through waterways. Please be respectful to the indigenous peoples, which have gone through a long history of marginalisation and oppression and many of whom still live in deep poverty nowadays. If you want to know more about indigenous cultures, you can also try to contact the Association of indigenous small peoples of Khabarovsk Kray, which has its office in the city of Khabarovsk, please see raipon.org for their current contact (search for "Хабаровск"). Sikachi-Alyan (Сикачи-Алян) – a national village inhabited by indigenous Nanai people, located some 70 km upstream on the Amur river. Close to the village you can find old petroglyphs, carved into stones on the banks of Amur, dating back some 20,000 years. If you don't find them, you might ask in the village for advice. Everyone should know them. Sikachi-Alyan also has a little museum, where you can learn much about indigenous culture, including shamanism, history and of course about the petroglyphs. However, you should probably know Russian or have an interpreter. – Center for rehabilitation of wild animals Utyos (Центр реабилитации диких животных Утёс) — in a couple of hours' distance from the city there is a place in taiga near a tiny village where people take care of wild animals who got in trouble. The tigers, Himalayan bears either found injured or starving as orphans are finally put in the Center and walking free in the area of several hectares in Sikhote-Alin natural memorial. Sakhalin (Сахалин) – Khabarovsk is an important transfer point between the Trans-Siberian Railway and the railway line to Vanino, where ferries shuttles passengers across the Tartar strait to the fascinating Sakhalin island. From there you can continue your journey onwards to Japan with a weekly ferry in summer.