Staying connected in China

Understand

VPNs China blocks access to many foreign websites and services through the Great Firewall of China. The Great Firewall normally works by inspecting Internet traffic going between China and the outside world, then blocking connections to banned websites and services. A virtual private network (VPN) routes your Internet connection through a server somewhere else. Instead of connecting directly from China to a blocked site, your phone or computer first makes an encrypted connection to a VPN server. Because that connection is encrypted, the Great Firewall should not be able to see that you are trying to reach a blocked site; it sees only the connection to the VPN server. The VPN server then connects to the blocked site for you and sends the data back through the encrypted connection. In China, a VPN may let you access sites and apps that are otherwise blocked. However, not all VPNs work reliably in China. The Great Firewall actively detects and disrupts many VPN connections, and performance can vary by provider, server, device, network, city, and even the time of day.

Legality Using VPNs and other tools is common in practice, including among Chinese residents. China regulates VPN services, and companies operating VPNs inside China generally need government approval. Unauthorized VPN services have been targeted by the authorities, but ordinary tourists are rarely the target of enforcement. That said, you should be discreet. Do not use a VPN or other circumvention tool for political activism or anything that could attract official attention. The practical risk for normal tourist use is very low, but it is not zero.

Mobile payments

China’s consumer economy relies almost entirely on mobile payments, and the normal way to pay for almost anything is by scanning a QR code with your phone. The two dominant payment platforms are Alipay and WeChat Pay. Alipay is widely used for payments, while WeChat Pay is built into WeChat, China’s dominant messaging app. Almost every merchant in China will have an Alipay terminal or QR code and/or a WeChat Pay QR code for you to scan and pay. You can link an overseas card to Alipay or WeChat Pay, though reliability varies widely b

Prepare

Prepare your phone, payments, and Internet access before arrival. Do not assume you can fix everything after you land: VPN websites may be blocked, app downloads may fail, cards may need verification, and some accounts may require SMS codes sent to an existing phone number.

Bring the right cards Bring more than one credit or debit card, preferably from different issuers. A foreign Visa or Mastercard may work normally elsewhere in the world, but still fail when linked to Alipay or WeChat Pay. Travel-oriented debit cards, such as Wise or Revolut, typically work better than mainstream cards. Know your card PINs, make sure your cards are enabled for overseas and online payments, and bring enough cash or ATM access to cover a few days if mobile payments fail. Cash is still legal tender in China, but it is much less convenient than mobile payment.

Set up Alipay and WeChat Pay Install Alipay and WeChat before travelling to China. Link at least one foreign card to each app, complete any identity verification requested, and make sure you can receive SMS codes on the phone number attached to your accounts. Set up both apps rather than relying on only one. Alipay is often easier to use for everyday payments, but WeChat mini-programs (which use WeChat Pay) are usually preferred for reserving tickets at tourist attractions. If your SMS phone number doesn't work in China, then you should get a Chinese phone number once you arrive and then switch both apps to that. The Beijinger has an illustrated guide to setting up Alipay and WeChat Pay.

Set up VPNs

Set up any VPN before arriving in China. VPN websites and downloads will almost certainly be blocked once you are inside the country. Be sure to test your VPN on all your devices before you arrive! If you are a propeller-hat you may have other workarounds, but this guide covers only VPNs. Not all VPNs work reliably in China. Performance changes frequently, and a VPN that works on one network, device, server, or day may fail on another. Paid VPNs are generally more plausible than free VPNs, but no provider should be treated as guaranteed. Post-secondary institutions often provide VPN to their staff and students for free,

Upon arrival

Get a Chinese SIM

If your phone supports dual SIMs (for example, one physical SIM and multiple eSIMs), consider getting a mainland Chinese SIM in addition to your roaming SIM or travel eSIM. A Chinese phone number is extremely useful because many Chinese services are tied to SMS verification, including food delivery, mini-programs, and ticket reservations – foreign phone numbers are rarely recognized regardless of whether you are able to receive SMS messages in China. Set mobile data to the roaming SIM or travel eSIM, and set calls and text messages to the Chinese SIM. Buying a Chinese SIM requires passport registration. Airport kiosks for China Mobile, China Unicom, or China Telecom are usually the easiest places, but prices may be higher. For better prices, wait until you can go to an official store; in major cities, staff should be able to set you up quickly. There are also many unofficial mobile service shops, which will not be able to register a SIM for a foreigner, but the staff should happily point you to an official location.

Test payments and withdraw cash

Test Alipay and WeChat Pay before you need them for anything urgent. A hotel front desk is a good place to try a payment. If a payment fails, try another linked card or the other payment app. Failures can be caused by the card issuer, the app, identity verification, the merchant’s payment setup, or the type of transaction. It is much easier to troubleshoot this before you are in a rush. Withdraw a small amount of cash from an ATM as backup. Cash is still legal tender, but it is less convenient than mobile payment, and some merchants may have trouble making change.

Go

Use your phone for local transport Set up local public-transport QR codes in WeChat or Alipay. Instead of physical cards, most Chinese cities have metro and bus cards inside WeChat or Alipay, which is extremely convenient. (Alipay tends to be more straightforward and easier to use.) Activating them may require passport verification (you can do this on your phone), but you should only have to do it once, even though you will need to activate a new transit card in each city. Test it before rush hour or before making a timed connection! Although some stations also sell paper tickets or accept cash, QR-code payment is far easier once set up. It doesn't always work. Some transit systems, particularly small, bus-only ones, require a mainland Chinese ID card number to acquire a digital transit card. Others may allow passport registration but reject your application regardless, for mysterious reasons. There are usually backup means available. Some transit systems allow you to purchase a single ticket using Alipay or WeChat Pay without needing to use a card. And almost all systems will accept cash as a last resort, but make sure you have enough ¥1 notes, as change is rarely given.

Use mini-programs for tickets and reservations

Many museums, scenic areas, restaurants, and local services use WeChat mini-programs for tickets and reservations. You can reserve in advance usually if you have a Chinese phone number from your Chinese SIM – this may save you a lot of time waiting in line. In WeChat, pull down from the main chat screen to open the mini-program area; this shows recently used mini-programs and a search box. You can also find mini-programs by scanning QR codes, searching WeChat, or following links from an organization’s official WeChat account. Search using Chinese characters whenever possible. English searches often fail or return unofficial results. Copy the Chinese name of the place you want to visit and