Yogyakarta

Understand

Yogyakarta is a bustling town of some 375,000 people (2020) and the most popular tourist destination on Java, largely thanks to its proximity to the temples of Borobudur and Prambanan. The city is a centre of art and education, offers some good shopping and has a wide range of tourist facilities. It is named after the city of Ayodhya in India, where Rama, an avatar of the Hindu god Vishnu is said to have had his capital, and whose rule is considered by Hindus to be the epitome of good governance and a moral society. The city (kota) of Yogyakarta is one of five districts in the semi-autonomous province of Daerah Istimewa Yogyakarta (DIY), the "Yogyakarta Special Region". The other districts are the regencies of:

Sleman on the slopes of fiery Mount Merapi to the north Bantul all the way to the sea to the south The hills of Gunung Kidul to the east The lowlands of Kulon Progo to the West This special status is thanks to the Sultanate of Hamengkubuwono, which has ruled the area since 1749 and steered the state through difficult times of occupation and revolution. During the Indonesian war of independence, Sultan Hamengkubuwono IX offered the fledgeling Indonesian government his enclave as a capital city. Yogyakarta became the revolutionary capital of the republic from 1946 to 1949 when Jakarta was still occupied by the Dutch. As a result, the newly-independent Indonesia appointed the Sultan as the governor of the province — the only one in Indonesia that is hereditary and not elected directly by the people. The Indonesian central government has tried to weaken the sultan's power by calling for direct elections for the governor. The present sultan, Hamengkubuwono X, was chosen by an overwhelming majority. Yogyakarta lies in one of the most seismically active parts of Java and has been repeatedly struck by earthquakes and volcanic eruptions. The worst in recent times was the earthquake of 27 May 2006, which killed over 6,000 people and flattened over 300,000 houses. The epicentre was 25 km (16 mi) south of the city, which avoided the worst of the quake. A very effective disaster recovery effort repaired most of the physical damage quickly. Yogyakarta is full of domestic tourists during school holidays, with tourist buses on the visitor hotspots of shopping street Jl Malioboro and the northern palace square, or alun-alun, trapped in heavy traffic. Vehicles, parking and vendors contribute to the traffic jams.

Tourist information There are three information offices, one at the airport, one at the main railway station, and this main one:

1 Government Tourist

Getting there

By plane 1 Yogyakarta International Airport (YIA IATA). All domestic and international jet flights use this airport. There are near-hourly connections to Jakarta (50 minutes) and Denpasar, while other domestic airlines service major cities in Java, Sumatra, Kalimantan and Sulawesi. There are Damri Buses and Damri Minibuses from YIA to Wojo Station for Rp10,000, to Yogyakarta city Rp40,000, to Kebumen Rp50,000 and to Magelang Rp50,000. From YIA to Yogyakarta by Damri minibus cost Rp25,000 and takes around 1.5 hr. The KAI Bandara Railink train goes to Yogyakarta Tugu Station about once an hour for Rp50,000, and takes 40 minutes. Trains can be full, so book in advance to avoid waiting. Allow about 10 minutes after clearing customs to walk to the station. (updated Jan 2020)

2 Adisucipto International Airport (JOG IATA), Jl Solo (8 km (5.0 mi) east of the city), ☏ +62 274 484261. A small but busy, mostly domestic hub; it only serves domestic propeller planes to Bandung, Denpasar, and Surabaya. There is a tourist information desk and ATMs in the arrival hall. (updated Mar 2020)

Getting into the city Since Adisucipto International Airport is closer to the city centre, there are numerous possibilities to get into the city:

By bus TransJogja bus 1A goes to the main Tugu train station and Jl Malioboro for Rp3,500. Buy the ticket at the bus stop.

By taxi Airport taxis cost around Rp50,000 depending on destination. Pay at the desk in the arrival terminal and head for the rank. Give the receipt to your driver, there is no need for any additional payment. It is about half the price to use a taxi dropping passengers off at the departure terminal — insist on using the meter. Expect to pay the Rp2,000 airport entrance fee, even though this has already been paid by the previous passenger on the way in.

By rail Take the KRL commuter train that runs between Surakarta and Jogja, from Maguwo station, a few minutes' walk from airport arrivals. In Yogyakarta, the train calls at the main Tugu station, just off Jl Malioboro, and Lempuyangan station. In Solo, it calls at Balapan and Purwosari stations.

Ride-hailing services You can use ride-hailing apps to get picked up but you will be picked up outside the airport in front of the Class I Immigration Office on Jl Solo, an eight-minute walk from the terminal.

By train

3 Tugu Railway Station (Stasiun Tugu), Jl Mangkubumi No.1, ☏ +62 274 589685. The main central station, serving cities such as Jakarta, Bandung, Paron, Surabaya and Solo. To check schedules and buy tickets enter from Jl Pasar Kembang (i.e., fr

Getting around

Yogyakarta is a relatively small city, so travelling around town should not be too expensive. If you are travelling on foot, a street sign facing you at a corner indicates the name of the street you are entering, not the cross street.

By bus

Medium and small buses are the main public transport in Yogyakarta. The TransJogja rapid transit system operates from 05:30 to 21:30 and stops only at designated shelters. They are air-conditioned and generally safe. Tickets can be bought at the kiosks, and the cost for a single trip is Rp3,600. You can buy regular trip cards which cut the per trip cost to Rp3,000, and allow transit to other shelters. Get a free route map for the TransJogja buses at the Tourist Information Centre on Jl Malioboro. Buses other than TransJogja normally operate 06:00 to 17:00, or 21:00 for some long routes. The cost for a single trip is Rp3,000 regardless of distance (within the city). Usually on a bus there will be a driver and a helper who will hang from the side of the bus and handle money and try to attract passengers. The helper will usually tap you on the shoulder to indicate you should pay him. If there is no helper you can pay the driver directly. When you are ready to get off a bus, tell the driver or helper "kiri" (KIH-ree) which means left.

By car or motorbike There are several car and motorbike rental agencies just outside Tugu Station, on the street that runs east-west just south of the station. A car or motorbike delivery and pick-up at the airport remain the best way to rent them. Driving a car in Indonesia is never a rewarding experience. But for those that would like to, a Toyota Avanza or Daihatsu Xenia (6 passengers) can be rented for around Rp250,000-300,000 for 24 hours, or Rp175,000-225,000 for 12 hours. A new green car, Toyota Agya or Daihatsu Ayla, can be rented for Rp150,000 for 24 hours. Most of the companies will ask you for the driving licence and ID cards for security reasons. Renting a car with a driver is a more relaxing proposition. A driver will cost an additional Rp50,000-200,000 a day. The cost of a car with a driver may vary depending on whether fuel is included for a set distance or for the whole itinerary. Prices are always subject to negotiation and may increase or decrease due to local demand, type and age of vehicle and your individual requirements at the time. The normal rates (not the high season/peak season) will be around Rp450,000-500,000 per 12 hours' service.

Delina Trans (Rental Mobil Jogja), Jl Parangtritis Km 14.5, ☏ +62 851-175-55416, [email protected]. Rp150,000. (update

See

Being one of the oldest cities in Indonesia, Yogyakarta has many heritage buildings and monuments and the centre was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2023. The number one must-see attraction is Sri Sultan Hamengkubuwono's palace, better known as Kraton Ngayogyakarta. Near the palace are a number of other heritage buildings : the BNI '46 building, the Central Post Office and Bank Indonesia. Other notable landmarks and attractions are:

1 Benteng Vredeburg (Vredeburg Fort), Jl Jenderal Ahmad Yani No.6, ☏ +62 274 586934, +62 274 510996. A Dutch fort in front of Gedung Agung (the President's Palace). A great example of Dutch colonial architecture. A few military items are presented, including a twin cannon. Closed for renovation until May 2024 by Indonesian Heritage Agency. (updated Apr 2024) 2 Kotabaru. The Dutch officials' residential area has some heritage homes, a colonial style church, monastery (Gereja Kotabaru), and a stadium (Stadion Kridosono). (updated Nov 2017) 3 Kotagede. The capital of the ancient Islamic Mataram kingdom. The tomb of its first king, Panembahan Senopati, is here in the royal graveyard. Before independence, Kotagede was Jogja's economic centre, as it had the largest market and was home to many wealthy batik merchants. Some of the older buildings have been modernised or replaced with newer buildings, but Kotagede remains a prime example of Javanese architecture and city structure. Check out the local silver handicrafts. 4 Tugu Monument. A downtown landmark. Built by Sri Sultan Hamengkubuwono VI, the spire was originally a sphere representing the universe. During the colonial era, the spire was replaced with a golden cylinder.

The Kraton The Sultan's palace or Kraton encompasses the main palace, the sultan's residential buildings, two alun-alun (palace squares), and a large residential area where the sultan's servants used to live.

5 Northern alun-alun (Alun-alun utara). Built for training the Sultan's army, it was opened to the public during the reign of Sultan Hamengkubuwono IX. Now used for the quarterly Garebeg parade held in the months of Maulud, Besar and Sawal, according to the Javanese calendar. In the parade, the Sultan's servants carry huge cone-shaped offerings to the alun-alun. After the parade, attendees scramble to get a scrap of the offering as it is believed to bring good luck. Prior to the month of Maulud, a popular public fair is held here for 30 days, offers many kinds of goods from traditional handicrafts to Chinese ceramics. A snack associated with the fair is the doughnut-like galundeng. On week

Do

Horse-drawn carriage rides — traditional horse-drawn carriages, the four-wheeled andhong and the two-wheeled horsecart call dokar, wait for tourists outside hotspots like the train station, the Kraton and Mal Malioboro. Haggle furiously. The traditional route is from Jl Malioboro to the Kraton. Andhong often want to take you to shop for fake Dagadu t-shirts at hefty prices in Ngasem. The cost for a round trip is about Rp20,000. They usually ask for Rp30,000 but may settle for less. While andhong primarily serve the tourist market, dokar are used more generally by the Jogjanese but are still happy to give you a tourist jaunt. Andhong can hold up to five adults, while a dokar will take about two only. Masangin (masuk antara dua beringin, passing between the two banyan trees) — you can play this simple, fun game on the southern alun-alun. Participants are blindfolded and must walk straight between the two ancient banyan trees. It sounds easy but most participants usually fail. Reflexology — achieve soothing experience by having a short reflexology massage. One of the hippest among Jogjanese. Street chess— when it's quiet, particularly around the end of Jalan Malioboro near the Kraton, the becak drivers will play chess on the street with large wooden sets. You are welcome to challenge them and it's fun. This is how they pass the time between fares, so some play for several hours each day - you'll be up against some stiff competition. Don't offer or accept any bets on the outcome - it takes the fun out of a good way to interact with the locals and pass the time. Sunday morning on the university boulevard — every Sunday, the main boulevard in the Gadjah Mada university campus is thronged with students, joggers and martial arts enthusiasts. Get there between 07:00-09:00 for a bit of exercise. After that, replace the calories you lost by sampling the foods from the many stalls. The choice includes opor ayam' (chicken curry with rice cake), bubur ayam (rice porridge with chicken), 'siomay (fish dumplings) and sate ambal (chicken satay with tempeh sauce). Don't forget to check the flea market nearby. Yoga & meditation — widely available including: Balance Mind-Body-Soul, Jalan Cendrawasih 36, Demangan Baru, ☏ +62 274 742 7925, +62 274 566717. daily classes

Buy

Jogja is the home of batik, traditional wayang puppets, sculpture, ceramics and silverware. Handicrafts from outside Jogja can also be found. Alternatively, as a modern city, there are stylish malls offering interesting goods and services at a reasonable cost.

1 Jalan Malioboro. Well-known shopping street very popular with domestic and international tourists alike. Stretching from Tugu train station in the north to the alun-alun in the south, it is 2 km long and home to hundreds of shops and street stalls offering all kinds of handicrafts. The street is partly pedestrianised and no motorbike parking is allowed. Motorbikes can be parked in the Abu Bakar Ali area from where there are two free shuttle buses to Malioboro.

Handicrafts 2 Monggo Chocolate, Jl Dalem KG III/978, Purbayan, Kotagede,, ☏ +62 274 373192. daily 08:00-17-00. Chocolate factory. 3 Tjokrosuharto, Jl. Panembahan Angkurat 58, ☏ +62 274 375208. This handicraft shop opens its door for business in 1954 and still operating today. It offers a large selection of Javanese handicrafts such as wayang kulit (leather puppet), wayang golek (wooden puppet), batik, keris, silverware, sculptures, and traditional outfits. 4 Dagadu, Malioboro Mall (lower ground floor). Offers funny contemporary t-shirts and souvenirs that revolves around Yogyakarta people's culture. 5 Ciamis Art Shop, Jl Malioboro No.153. 09:00 -13:00 and 18:00 - 20:00. Shadow puppets, masks, carvings, and more at fixed prices that are lower than in the market. Nadzar, Jl Malioboro No.187. Huge souvenir shop specializing in batik, art, jewellery, and more. Has every souvenir you could imagine at fixed prices.

Batik There are some excellent batik galleries selling hand-made paintings on cotton and silk. The cloth folds up easily for transport and can be ironed later. There are also several scams which you should avoid. Authentic batik should look vivid on both sides of the cloth; whereas stamped batik will only look vivid on one side. To get the best price, visit a gallery where they grade the quality of the pieces, usually using a scale from A-Z. Prices range from Rp50,000 for A (small student paintings), to Rp1,000,000 for Z paintings (usually large pieces done by master artists). You may be able to haggle an extra 25% off the marked price. Beware shops which buy and resell the paintings, marking up the prices for Z-level artwork to Rp8,000,000 — this is massively overpriced.

6 Hamzah Batik (Mirota Batik), Jl Ahmad Yani No.9 (opposite Beringharjo market), ☏ +62 274 588524, +62 274 518127, +62 274 547016. The large family-own

Eat

Yogyakarta food used to be known for its sweetness. However, as more and more people move to Jogja, the city starts seeing more diversity in flavor. Now you can find many kinds of interesting dishes, from sweet, spicy, to fiery. Sometimes a fusion from other cuisines such as Chinese or Western can be found. Since the influx of people from around the country, you can find some restaurants and cafes that open until 23:00 in the centre. If you want to eat the traditional way, head to Malioboro for a lesehan dinner in front of the closed shophouses, similar to the Japanese eating style on a tatami, but you sit on a mat and eat with your hands (you can ask for cutlery though). The food is ready to serve, — vegetables, fried and grilled meat (satay, seafood) are the most common, served with white rice. You can also order traditional gudeg. While this is a favorite among locals for the mingle for hours, do not expect very cheap prices.

Local delicacies The following dishes are recommended:

Gudeg, a sweet and dry curry of jackfruit, chicken and egg served with rice, and the most famous local dish. Goopy slop in various shades of brown, the stuff does not look particularly appetizing, but it can be tasty if done right. There are many gudeg restaurants, but the most popular are: Gudeg Wijilan, Gudeg Juminten, Gudeg Bu Tjitro, Gudeg Tugu, Gudeg Bu Ahmad. If you can wake up early in the morning, you may find small stalls serving Gudeg just at the corner of the street, or close to traditional markets. If you can't sleep at night, you can go to Jalan Janturan and enjoy the Gudeg Pawon (enjoying gudeg inside the old style kitchen) that open in late night. Due to the heavy fiber content of young jackfruit and the thick coconut milk, those who have a weak stomach may have trouble with gudeg. Ayam geprek, the original can be found just outside the city limit at Ayam Geprek Bu Rum, deep-fried chicken with crispy batter which is then crushed under pestle along with chili peppers, salt, and garlic and served with rice. Various side dish can be added to the chicken such as grated cheddar, fried eggplant, tempeh, or tofu. Oseng mercon, spicy stir fried beef and offal. Brongkos, sweet beef and bean in a keluak nut soup. Enthok slenget, spicy muscovy duck soup. Nasi langgi, locally known as sego langgi (langgi rice). Warm rice served with various side dishes. Can be found in small stall in Gandekan St. Kipo, bite-size snacks made of green tapioca dough filled with sweetened grated coconut. Can be found in Kotagede. Bakpia, another bite-size snack made from sweetened green be

Drink & nightlife

Clubs Usually all clubs are willing to give free entry before midnight if you call and ask for a guestlist, unless on an important event night.

1 Republic, ☏ +62 274 566353. Hotel INNA Garuda, Jl. Malioboro 60. DJs and live music. Embassy, ☏ +62 274 484950. In Sheraton Hotel complex area (there's a tunnel connecting the club). Entrance fee around Rp35,000-100,000, depends on the event. Full set DJs. Music ranges from trance, house, to dubstep. The drinks are genuine, but are pretty pricey. Have a weekly discount night called Monday Madness 50% off. Usually they have free drinks from 22:00-02:00 on the last Thursday of every month with a fee of Rp100,000/person. Platinum, Jl. Sudirman. (updated May 2020) Cubic, Demangan. SUGAR Executive Club, Jl. Tentara Pelajar (Indoluxe Hotel). Terrace, Seturan (near STIE YKPN).

Lounges & bars Lounges and cafes are found throughout Indonesia's trendy inner city environments.

2 Easy Garden, Jl. Suryodiningratan 10, ☏ +62 274 4284 123, [email protected]. 12:00–01:30. Cosy beanbags in a lush garden or sitting under grape pergola. Offers shisha as well for Rp75,000. Live music Th-Sa nights from 21:00. Free plunge pool, billiard table & wifi. Cocktails Rp45-90,000, beers Rp25-65,000. (updated Jul 2022) Corner of Jl. Parangtritis & Prawirotaman A bunch of casual street bars are found here, some of them with loud music and bar girls.

Sleep

There are hundreds of hotels in Jogja. All the major international and national chains are represented — Accor, Sheraton, Hyatt, Melia — but there is much of local interest at all budget levels.

Budget under Rp250,000 Most of the budget accommodation is on Jl Sosrowijayan (adjacent to Jl Malioboro) and in the Jl Prawirotaman area, about 3 km (1.9 mi) to the south of the centre.

Malioboro and Sosrowijayan Many backpackers find places to stay on the alleys around Gang Sosrowijayan, close to the Tugu train station and Jl Malioboro. Gang-3 is a red light area. The 'losmen' tariff is from Rp100,000 a day in low season and up to Rp250,000 a day for a losmen with facilities: aircon, en-suite bathroom and TV. The gangs are 10-15 minutes walk from the train station. If you follow one of the touts advertising cheap accommodation your stay might be more expensive as they will get a commission for bringing you there.

1 Andrea Hotel, Sosrowijayan Wetan GT I/140, Gang 2, ☏ +62 274 563502, +62 813 2858-5516, [email protected]. Across the street from Setia Kawans alley, clean, friendly European owner, bar facilities, A/C rooms and fan rooms. Each room has a private bathroom with shower, western toilet and sink. Credit cards accepted. Rp140,000 to–285,000 including breakfast. 2 Bladok Losmen & Restaurant, Jl Sosrowijayan No.76, ☏ +62 274 560452. A small hotel with clean and comfortable rooms, traditionally designed. All rooms have a private bathroom attached. Rooms with a balcony are available. Double room with fan & hot shower Rp140,000. A basic room is about Rp100,000. 3 Bunk Bed And Breakfast, Jl Wahid Hasyim No.23, Nagampilan, ☏ +62-274-383033. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 11:00. Air-con 4/8 bed dorms with own/outside bathroom. Free WiFi and breakfast. from Rp75,000 per person. (updated Apr 2017) 4 Edotel, Jl Kenari No.4, ☏ +62 274 558436. Neat hotel run by students of the vocational high school next door so all the income benefits the school. The beds are big and cozy, and it's in a great part of town, near the center but quiet. The student staff are wonderful and there are hot showers and Wi-Fi in all rooms. In a fairly conservative Muslim part of town - couples will not be able to share a room unless they are married, even same sex friends sharing a room can be problematic. 5 La Javanaise Homestay, Sosrowijayan Wetan Gt 1/187, ☏ +62 274 556054. Very friendly and welcoming place to stay near Jl Malioboro. Includes breakfast. Rp150,000. 6 Losmen Candi, Jl Pasar Kembang No. 5 (very close to Tugu Station), ☏ +62 817 4121 1997. Clean and tidy with va

Go next

North The massive Buddhist temple of Borobudur, the largest Buddhist monument in the world, is 40 minutes away by car and one of the main drawcards for visitors to Yogyakarta. Many tour buses (minivans) leave Yogyakarta at 05:00 for an early visit to Borobudur. This is a convenient way to skip the crowds which arrive mid morning, although a little more expensive: Rp45,000-50,000 (including a simple breakfast). However, the extra cost could save you money if tour participants chip in for a tour guide. Gereja Ayam (Chicken Church). Near Magelang. In response to what he claimed was a divine vision in 1988, Daniel Alamsjah, a devout Christian, spent every weekend over nearly a decade overseeing the construction of this multi-dominical bird-shaped prayer house. Alamsjah’s vision had been of a dove, but its resemblance to a giant chicken has earned it its better-known moniker, Gereja Ayam – Chicken Church. Alamsjah ran out of funds in 2000 to complete it and left it to fall into decay. However over the next 15 years, curious visitors to nearby Borobudur began seeking it out. Increasing visitor numbers encouraged Alamsjah to return and begin work on completing the structure. The interior has been decorated in a style that may not be to everyone’s taste. From the parking lot it is 15 minute walk up a steep hill to the building (for which it is advisable to bring closed footwear). Shuttle rides are offered up the hill but these can be expensive. It is often included in tours to Borobodur. Open daily 05:00 to 16:30. The entrance fee is Rp30,000 (+ Rp10,000 parking fees for a car). Kaliurang in Sleman Regency is the closest settlement on the southern slope of Mount Merapi. One reason to visit this town is the Ullen Sentalu Museum, an exotic museum dedicated to the culture and life of Javanese royalty. The museum is built into the surrounding landscape, with gardens, sculptures and an overall tranquil and natural environment. There is also a colonial-themed restaurant in the grounds called Beukenhof. Ketep Pass, a pass located in the slope between Mount Merapi and Mount Merbabu offers a great vantage point for a spectacular view of both mountains. This site has a small cinema that regularly shows an interesting documentary of Mount Merapi. East of Borobudur, 40 minutes from Yogyakarta by car. Salatiga, about 2½ hours from Yogyakarta, is closer to Semarang (1 hour) than Yogyakarta. Salatiga is a mountain resort town with several good resort-style spa hotels mainly aimed at people looking for a tranquil and relaxing escape from the city life. Activities in Salatiga