Yerevan

Understand

Even though the history of Yerevan dates back to the Erebuni fortress, making it at least 2,800 years old, little remains of what was small settlement saving the excavations at Hrazdan river gorge, Erebuni, Karmir Berd and Avan. These sites have been excavated, and the artifacts found are in museums today. Being on a strategically important place Yerevan was a constant war stage for rival Ottoman, Persian and Russian Empires. It has been repeatedly ruined by those wars or natural disasters (e.g. an earthquake in 17th century almost entirely destroyed the town). Few buildings of the old Erivan survived to the present-day Yerevan. At the time of Armenia's independence in 1918, when Yerevan was made the capital of an independent Armenia, Yerevan was a town of just 20,000. Large scale construction began, which took a more holistic approach under the new city plan laid out by Alexander Tamanyan. The plan involved the demolition of much of what existed, in favor of concentric circles, parks, and taller structures. He planned for Yerevan to become a metropolis of 200,000 people. In Soviet years, Yerevan underwent massive reconstruction, following architect Alexander Tamanyan's plan to make a "perfect city" - a Neo-Classical town with wide avenues, resembling Paris, Vienna and Saint Petersburg. As a result, the city is easily accessible by foot and boasts a dense assortment of parks, galleries, museums, and other public institutions.

People

Yerevan is a very ethnically homogeneous city, though tiny Yezidi and Molokan (Russian) minorities exist. Because the population of the city was only 20,000 a century ago, the vast majority of the Armenians are immigrants themselves, from all over the world. From the villages and towns of Armenia, from Tbilisi which was the centre of Eastern Armenian culture before 1918, from Western Armenia as genocide survivors poured in, and even from the Middle East and Europe in a large, post-World War II wave of immigration. Since independence, the city has become the heart of the entire Armenian world, as the divisive communist governments demise has allowed the Diaspora – larger in number than the population of Armenia itself, to embrace the city as its own.

Religion Many visitors will be surprised to know that Armenia is not just an outcrop of Christianity in the Caucasus, but it is the first country in the world to adopt Christianity as a state religion. The king declared Christianity the state religion in 301 AD. Christianity has been uninterruptedly practiced in Armenia ever since in its own traditions. The Armenian Apostol

Getting there

By plane 1 Zvartnots International Airport (EVN IATA) (14 km west of the city centre), ☏ +374 10 493000. This is the main gateway to Armenia, with direct flights from major airports in Europe, the former CIS and the Middle East. No domestic flights, as the country is too small.The airport is small, with relatively few flights, so navigating it is simple. Free Wi-Fi access is available in the departure terminal. A single lounge for the departing passengers (accessible to same-day business class ticket holders, airline elites and Priority Pass members) is open around the clock. On arrival there's a bank currency exchange before passport control, then another in Arrivals: both are good value with only a 1%-3% spread between "buy" and "sell" for major currencies, the same as downtown exchanges. The airport bank exchanges all appear to have good rates for major currencies without additional fees, but the non-bank airport exchanges have poor rates. Several decent cafes, ATMs, bank and post branches are all available at the 1st and 2nd floors of the airport. There's a tourist information desk and a touch screen information stand in Arrivals. (updated Oct 2018) Getting there/away:

A shuttle bus has regular trips between Zvartnots Airport and Yerevan centre. These buses go every half-hour 07:00-22:00, and every hour 22:30-07:00. The airport's bus stop is located in front of the terminal entrance. A single ticket costs 300 dram for bus 201 ("Elite" bus, marschrutka-like ) or 500 dram for bus 100. . The bus makes few stops on the way where passengers can board or disembark, e.g. France Square, Pak Shuka and Yeritasardakan. On the way back to the airport, the stop at Yeritasardakan is opposite of SAS supermarket or at Republic Square (on Abovyan Street). Under ideal traffic circumstances, the ride of "Elite" bus 201 takes 25 minutes from Yeritasardakan to the Zvartnots. See also the official airport website FAQ.

Taxis are also an option. The official provider is "Airport Services" ☏ +374 98 828200, ☏ +374 10 595900, ☏ +374 60 430000, and they have a booking desk in Arrivals. There are also people who will ask you if you need a taxi as you exit the terminal. They will often offer a better price (about half price) than the official taxi as they have already dropped off a passenger and are looking for any possible fare back—though you will have to walk a bit further to get to their cab. However, if they try to charge you anything more than the agreed price at the end, claiming a misunderstanding or anything else, absolutely refuse and threaten to call the police.

Getting around

On foot The center of Yerevan is compact and easy to get around by foot. Watch your step, however, as construction sites, potholes and aggressive drivers abound. Cross the street only at designated spots and be careful of distracted or aggressive drivers who do not yield the right of way to pedestrians.

By municipal transport The main means of public transport in Yerevan is the bus. Yerevan operates 8- and 12-meter buses, as well as minibuses, better known as marshrutkas. The frequency of buses varies depending on the day, time of day, and many other circumstances. Special screens with a list of upcoming buses are installed at some bus stops in the city. You can also track the movement of buses using Yandex Maps. Urban transport operates on a unified ticket system, with a single fare of 150 drams. There are also packages lasting several hours, days, weeks, and months, which must be purchased in advance. You can pay for transport with a bank card or a transport card. Transport cards can be purchased at Telcell offices, tourist offices, metro stations, etc. After purchasing the transport card, it can be topped up with new tickets at Telcell terminals, which are widely located in the city. Due to the peculiarities of the system, after purchasing a ticket or package, it is necessary to wait up to 15 minutes for the purchased ticket or package to be activated. You can find out more on the Yerevan ticket system website.

By metro The metro system in Yerevan is quite reliable and modern, having been built in the early 1980s. It is the quickest way around town, and at 100 dram, the cheapest aside from walking. Tickets are not issued, you buy plastic tokens and use these to operate the entry turnstiles. But it's underused, as most citizens find buses more convenient.

The metro is a single J-shaped line covering 12 km. Trains run every five minutes from 06:30 until 23:00: platform indicators count up, from 00:00 when the previous train departed. Due to Yerevan's uneven landscape, the stations are mostly very deep, but sometimes the line runs overground. As with other ex-Soviet metro systems, stations are elaborately decorated, blending Armenian national motifs with late-Soviet architecture. Photography is not allowed. Plans to build two further lines (forming a triangle, like Budapest) have so far come to nothing. The metro stations from north to south are:

1 Barekamutyun ("Friendship"), Marshal Baghramyan Ave (for National Archive of Armenia, Yerevan Expo). 2 Marshal Baghramyan, Marshal Baghramyan Ave (for American University of Armenia, Embassy of UK

See

Churches

Churches in Yerevan are open from early morning till very late evening. There is no entrance fee ever charged. If you manage to find the priest you can ask him to bless you and any object (of non-violent usage) that belongs to you (including friendship and other relationships).

1 Katoghike (Holy Mother of God Kathoghike Church, Սուրբ Աստվածածին Կաթողիկէ Եկեղեցի), corner of Sayat-Nova Ave. and Abovian St (Metro: Yeritasardakan 300 m). A tiny structure constructed in typical Armenian style. Katoghike means "cathedral"; the reason for the incongruity is that the original 13th century church had a much larger basilica attached to it in the 17th century - but that addition was demolished in 1936. In 2015 a new and much larger separate church was built next to Kathoghike, the cream colored St. Anna church. (updated Sep 2024) 2 Katoghike Tsiranavor Church of Avan (Ավանի Սուրբ Աստվածածին Կաթողիկե Եկեղեցի, Katoghike Tsiranavor church, later renamed Surp Hovhannes) (in Avan district). This is the city's oldest surviving church, which was completed in the 6th century. (updated Sep 2024) 3 St Gregory the Illuminator Cathedral, Yervand Kochar St (Metro: Zoravar Andranik). Completed in 2001 to commemorate the 1700th anniversary of Armenia as a Christian nation. The holy relics of St Gregory the Armenian were given back to the Armenian Church by the Vatican in 2001 and placed in this cathedral. The building is a megalomaniacal exaggeration of traditional Armenian Church Architecture. As opposed to all other churches in Yerevan (and Armenia) the cathedral is full of light and does not carry any stand for candles. The candle-house is a separate structure next door. However, the complex is vastly and visibly unfinished. (updated Sep 2024) 4 Saint Sarkis Cathedral, Israyelyan street (at the border of the city centre, on a picturesque gorge of Hrazdan River, Metro: Yeritasardakan 2 km). From the Victory Bridge (or alternatively the Brandy Factory building) there is a beautiful view on the church and surroundings (structures of different shades constructed in immediate proximity to the church during the Soviet years of forced secularisation). The church is always crowded. Usually there are also many young people as St Sargis (or St Sergius in Western churches) is the patron saint of young people and of lovers. (updated Sep 2024) 5 St Astvatsatsin of Nork (Holy Cross Church, Սուրբ Խաչ եկեղեցու), Nork-Marash (Նորք-Մարաշ) administrative district, near to Olimpos Educational Complex. This is the replica of a beautiful 18th-century St Holy Mother of God (Sb Astvatsat

Do

Hrazdan Gorge partying (try around the start of the children railway and from there going northwest). Only in summer. Visit one of the themed restaurants in the Hrazdan Gorge to see the locals partying. The food does not tend to venture far from barbecue and crayfish, but it is usually good barbecue, and the prices range from very reasonable to the unreasonable. Check the prices on the hard liquor and wines before ordering a bottle if you’re price sensitive. (updated Oct 2024) 1 Climb the Cascades. (or - before 20:00 - take the escalators inside the art gallery, stepping outside at each level) one evening for the great views of the city and Mt. Ararat, then head across the street to the amusement park inside Victory Park for some cotton candy and a ride on the rickety Ferris wheel. (updated Oct 2024) Catch a concert, multiple. on the Cascades or the Lover's Park, and an art exhibition at Swan Lake park or Lover's Park. 2 Yerevan Water World (Water park "AquaWorld"), 40 Myasnikyan Ave, ☏ +374 10 638998. 12:00–21:00, indoor water park "Aquatek" is open all year round without holidays. A water park popular with the locals in the summers, it consists of a big open-air water park and a much smaller indoor one. Anybody can cool down there as in total it offers 7 outdoor and 3 indoor pools. There are also wall-climbing facilities. During winter time, the largest pool of the park is turned into an ice skating rink. (updated Oct 2024) 3 Yerevan Zoo (Zoological Garden of Yerevan), Myasnikyan St., 20, ☏ +374 10 562362. Dec-Apr 10:00 - 17:30. Zoo is home to about 3,000 animals mainly representing South Caucasus and Armenia: bears, goats, snakes, Armenian mouflon and black vultures. Also from other parts of the world: lions, tigers, hyenas and an Asian elephants. It was upgraded and renovated to the modern standards back in 2014. Adult 800 dram, children 12-16 years - 500 dram, children 3-12 years - 300 dram. (updated Oct 2024) Football: the national men's soccer team play at Vazgen Sargsyan Republican Stadium (capacity 14,400) southeast corner of the city. Yerevan is home to seven of the ten teams in the Premier League, Armenia's top tier, so there's sure to be a game in town during the Aug-May playing season. The likeliest to be involved in European fixtures is FC Alashkert. They play at the 6850-capacity Alashkert Stadium, 3 km west of the centre off the road to the airport. The city's other top-tier clubs are FC Ararat Yerevan (who play at Republican Stadium), FC Ararat Armenia, Pyunik, FC Urartu, FC Noah (formerly FC Artsakh), and BKMA Yerevan. 4 Spartak Stadi

Buy

Markets

1 Covered Market (Agricultural bazaar, G.U.M. market, Food Market No. 2), 31 Tigran Mets Ave/Movses Khorenatsi St (: Zoravar Andranik). Yerevan's largest food market. (updated Sep 2024)

2 Vernissage (From : Republic Square a block east). Sa Su. A walk through the weekend Vernissage open air market through the park between Aram and Buzand Streets is a must. From rugs, souvenirs, instruments and paintings, to pets and chemistry supplies, this outdoor market seemingly has everything. (updated Sep 2024)

Malls

3 Dalma Garden Mall, 3 Tsitsernakaberd Hwy, ☏ +374 60 461111. 10:00-22:00. Western-style indoor mall with food court and movie theater. (updated Sep 2024) 4 Yerevan Mall, 34/3 Arshakunyats Blvd, ☏ +374-11 888 888. 10:00-22:00. Western-style indoor mall with food court, movie theater and play area. Anchored by Carrefour. (updated Sep 2024) 5 Metronome Shopping Centre, Isahakyan Street 22/10. 10:00-22:00. Pretty small underground mall in the center. (updated Sep 2024) 6 RIO Mall, Hrachya Kochar Street. 10:00-22:00. Newer mall in the Arabkir/Komitas neighborhood. (updated Sep 2024)

Souvenirs

Armenian brandy (locally called Cognac as well) is considered one of the world's finest brandies and is accordingly a popular gift to take home for tourists. It was actually Winston Churchill's brandy of choice. There are many stores within central Yerevan centre devoted solely to brandy from the Ararat Cognac Factory; the airport is also a good place to stock up at duty free. As a rule, the more aged the brandy, the more refined the taste and the more expensive. But regardless the series of brandy, in Yerevan it will be an excellent value. Armenian rugs, new and old are popular. New carpets can be purchased at the Mergeryan Rug Factory for a good price. More upscale is the international brand “Tufenkian Carpets”, with a shop on Tumanyan near Abovyan. Both will add your name or inscription request into an existing rug, or do a custom rug for you. There is no problem with exporting these. Old rugs are found in stores all over town, or in Vernissage. Be sure the seller obtains an export certificate from the ministry of culture for you – or you’re taking a chance that it may be confiscated. Negotiate to have the certificate delivered to you as part of the purchase price, and buy your rug a week before you go to give them time to obtain this certificate. New rugs do not require certification, but keep your factory certificate as proof that it is new. More fragile, but maybe worth the effort are some of the more exotic jams and preserves made in Armenia.

Eat

Budget Stands selling Armenian-style "pizzas" called "lamehjun" or "lahmajoun" are prevalent throughout Yerevan. This cheap snack consists of a thin layer of dough topped with an herb and meat paste.

1 Master Class, 28, 20 Tumanyan St (a couple of spaces from Abovyan Street, semi underground.). Angus beef kebab sandwiches for 1000 drams (Dec 2021), and a few other items on the small, focused menu. (updated Sep 2024) 2 Mer Taghe, 21, 1 Tumanyan St (west of Abovyan). A small lahmejun joint on Tumanyan, and their lahmejuns have a big following. If you have some extra time and want to splurge, try the manti dumplings or the norahars, a kind of regional lasagna. (updated Sep 2024) 3 OST, 20 Mesrop Mashtots Ave, ☏ +374 10 539580. daily 10:00-22:30. Cheap cafe, lots of food options and drinks. Very central, try the Ajarakan khachapuri or the lahmejun. Free Wi-Fi. (updated Sep 2024) 4 Meghedi, 34/6 Tumanyan, Freedom Square, ☏ +374 96 661890. daily 10:00-midnight (possibly later closure on Su). Cheap cafe, lots of food options and drinks. Very central, next to the Opera at the Freedom Square. Free Wi-Fi. (updated Sep 2024) 5 Tumanyan Shaurma, 32 Tumanyan St. Yerevan style shawarma. A local chain with a dozen restaurants around Yerevan. (updated Sep 2024) 6 Artashi Mot, Alexander Spendiaryan St. Opens 11AM. Cheap shaurmas, soups and kebabs upstairs, fancier but still well priced sit-down restaurant underground. Great place to have BBQ and to meet your traditional fast food cravings. The fancier part is considered by many to be the finest place for khorovats (BBQ) in Armenia. Judge for yourself, but not before trying the horti (beef) and sunki (mushroom) barbeques. They are both delicious, when they have them. Other nice alternatives include the fish barbeque and the piti soup. Whichever barbeque you get, get some of the tomato sauce mix that Artash makes to put on your meat, or just to dip your bread into. (updated Sep 2024) 7 Jengyalov Hac (Ժենգյալով Հաց), 62 Teryan St. Bakery. Excellent Armenian zhangyalov hats. (updated Sep 2024) 8 Lahmajun Gaidz, 9, 9 Tumanyan St (Main entrance, downstairs). Good cheap Armenian fast food, run by a kind and hard working Syrian-Armenian woman. (updated Sep 2024) 9 Tun Lahmajo, 23 Teryan Street. uper affordable lahmajo (Armenian pizza) and always packed with locals (updated Aug 2025) 10 Grand Candy Ponchikanots (Ponchikanots), 54 Mesrop Mashtots Ave (the inside corner of Mashtots and Koryun, under the Matenadaran), ☏ +37410565686. 10am-8pm. Ponchiks are a regional type of donut. Fried dough stuffed with a custard and topped wi

Drink & nightlife

Cafés, bars, restaurants, clubs and the countryside on a picnic are all popular places for vodka, the usual drink of choice, with wine, beer, champagne and brandy all popular as well. Most restaurants only sell pilsner-style beers, of middling quality, but some brew pubs and craft beer outlets can be found. Restaurant wine is usually very good. Drinking in public may be legal, but doing so as a foreigner will get you stopped by the police (and earn you plenty of dirty looks from the locals). You can drink in a car, as long as you’re not driving. Drivers cannot have a drop of alcohol in them, with zero being the legal threshold – and the penalties for violating this are stiff.

Places for a drink The most popular places to drink in the summer tend to be outdoor cafés and café/restaurants. The cafés by Cascade and the wine bars along Saryan are always packed. The following bars are popular spots with visitors.

1 Calumet, 56a Pushkin St, ☏ +374 94 359229. Bohemian, friendly, alternative crowd. Insanely smokey (seriously). There is no outdoor section so if you're not a fan of cigarette smoke, it might not be the place for you. English speaking staff and solid drinks selection. A nice place to kill a night. free. (updated Sep 2024) 2 Roza, 10 Pushkin St, ☏ +374 41 060460. Small bar with great ambiance in old Yerevan building, and fantastic drinks. Try the Tutovni house cocktail made with the famous local mulberry vodka. (updated Sep 2024) 3 In Vino, 6 Saryan Street. open round the clock. The first wine bar on Saryan Street, that led the transformation of the entire neighborhood is still popular. (updated Sep 2024) 4 Jack's Pub, 21 Gevorg Kochar Street, ☏ +374 96 808408. Good spot for a drink, the bloody mary is legendary and the basil gin cocktail is great in the summer. You'll likely meet some repats here. (updated Sep 2024)

Drinks to try Cognac – see the buy section above. Homemade fruit vodkas – these are not flavoured from fruit like most of the western vodkas but made from pure fruit. The most popular is the Tutti Oghi (Mulberry Vodka), but just as impressive if you can find them are the Cornelian Cherry (Hon), Pear, Apricot and Peach. Wine – Areni grapes are only grown in Armenia, which is in the oldest grape and wine producing part of the world. Old Yerevan is the best brand. Compote – if you can get it, this usually home made fruit juice is fantastic. Ask locals, and if some of them have it at home, they will drag you in to try. Tan – blended plain yoghurt with water and a dash of salt, this drink is often an acquired taste, and very refreshing.

Sleep

Yerevan has a wide variety of accommodations but for the most part they are overpriced. If you're staying for an extended period of time, rent an apartment. Check the AUA (American University of Armenia), local travel agents (Menua tours, Hyur Service) or real estate brokers for rental listings.

Budget There is a good selection of hostels and homestays in Yerevan to choose from for budget travellers.

1 Balcony Villa Hostel, Hovsep Emin 3/1, Arabkir (: Barekamutyun station (the last one) and from there walk down H.Hakobyan St till you get to a little hill. Up the hill and to the right, it's the small metal door on your left.), ☏ +374 10 264449, [email protected]. Check-out: 12:00, but flexible. A small, budget hostel. Offers free wifi, laundry, a kitchen and shared bathrooms that are cleaned daily. English speaking, friendly, coffee and tea are free. 9,000 dram for single room, 6,000 dram for shared room with locker, 6,500 dram for room with light breakfast, 7,000 dram for full breakfast. Between November and May rooms are 5,000 dram.. (updated Sep 2024) 2 Envoy Hostel, 54 Pushkin Str. (entrance on Parpetsi), ☏ +374 10 530 369. Check-in: 14:00. Winner of 'Best Hostel in Armenia' Award by HW 2010&11&13. Is centrally located, large and comfortable with free internet/wifi access, breakfast and tea/coffee facilities. All the rooms and common areas are air conditioned and spotlessly clean. English speaking staff is efficient and knowledgeable about traveling in Armenia and the regions. They also have a hostel in Tbilisi and offer weekly tours from Yerevan to Tbilisi with sightseeing and BBQ-lunch included. 7,000 dram w/ breakfast. (updated Sep 2024) 3 Grammy Hostel, 15 Aghayan st., ☏ +374 5 522 0322. A hostel, with a travellers' desk, free internet access, breakfast just for extra 500 dram, laundry, TV, a relaxation room where you can chill out and escape from the Yerevan hustle and bustle of the city, and a little garden where you can soak up the sun and relax on a bench. 4,000-7,000 dram (flexible). (updated Sep 2024) 4 Hostel Glide, House 16/1, Hakob Hakobyan St (Three minute-walk from :“Barekamutyun”), ☏ +374 9 406 0586. A private house located two metro stops out of the centre, but in a quiet and safe place. It's very close to bus stations, and it is possible to see Ararat mountain from the windows. Run by a very hospitable family. Prices for beds start from 4,500 dram. (updated Sep 2024) 5 Theatre Hostel, 27, 2nd Entrance, Tigran Mets Ave, ☏ +374 10 545 676. A small and cozy hostel 5 minutes walking distance from the main square. It is very cl

Go next

Easy day trips Many of Armenia's top sights are clustered close to Yerevan and are easy day trips, though you'll need your own transport for several:

Garni, 15 km east of Yerevan, has a Hellenistic temple and religious / royal complex, perched atop a canyon. Geghard Monastery, 5 km further, is carved into the canyon side. Khosrov Forest State Reserve is in the mountains above Geghard. Several monasteries, caves, and Kakavaberd ancient hill fortress. Echmiadzin (now called Vagharshapat), 15 km west of Yerevan, is the Canterbury of Armenia, with a monastery and cathedral compound. 3 km east are the ruins of Zvartnots cathedral. Ashtarak 15 km northwest has St Hovhannes Karapet Cathedral perched over the Kasagh gorge. Artashat 20 km south has Khor Virap Monastery. Take bus 452, 467, 468 from the Southern Bus Station for Khor Virap; 300-400 dram. Armash, 60 km south east, has fish lagoons that have become an important bird habitat. It's up against the closed borders with Turkey and Nakhchivan, so expect official suspicion. Photo ID is mandatory for entry. Further out, more suited to overnight trips (lots of tours available):

Around Mount Aragats are Amberd castle and Church. Noravank Monastery, Noravank Canyon and Areni Wine Country are 80 km south-east. To the north around Lake Sevan are Tsakhkadzor, Sevanavank and Hayravank Monasteries, Noratus Khachkar Cemetery, and Dilijan old town. Jermuk, Sisian and Tatev monastery are further down the road southeast. Beyond Armenia

The obvious next destination is Tbilisi. On the way, try to see the canyon and monasteries in Debed Canyon.