Varanasi

Understand

Varanasi (vah-rah-nnuh-see) is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, with settlements dating back to the 11th century BCE. Many Hindus believe that dying in Varanasi brings salvation (variously termed as moksha, mukti or nirvāṇa) and so they make the trip to the city when they realise that they are close to death. For some, the culture shock of the burning corpses in plain view can be a bit overwhelming. However, the scene of pilgrims doing their devotions in the River Ganga at sunrise set against the backdrop of the centuries-old temples is probably one of the most impressive sights in the world.

Getting there

Varanasi is well connected by plane, train, and bus. Varanasi is mostly on the west bank of the Ganges. The 1 Malviya Bridge on the north and 2 Ramnagar Bridge on the south connect the city to the eastern parts of India.

By plane 3 Lal Bahadur Shastri Airport (VNS IATA), Babatpur (25 km (16 mi) NW of the city centre. A taxi to/from the airport takes an hour and costs ₹750, while a tuk-tuk/auto-rickshaw can take twice as long and costs ₹500. Allow extra time due to traffic.). Air India, JetKonnect, SpiceJet, and IndiGo all operate regular flights to Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Bengaluru, Hyderabad, Khajuraho and Visakhapatnam. There are flights to Sharjah on Air India Express, to Kathmandu on Buddha Air and to Bangkok on Thai Airways. (updated May 2023)

By train

There are multiple daily services to cities including Delhi (13 hours), Agra (13 hours), Lucknow (7 hours), Mumbai (25-27 hours), Kolkata (12-14 hours) and Siliguri (14-16 hours). Varanasi is served by three major railway stations:

4 Varanasi Junction (station code: BSB). The trip between the train station and the Ganges riverfront costs ₹100 in an auto-rickshaw. Also called "Cantt" / Varanasi Cantt station for being situated near cantonment. 5 Banaras (station code: BSBS). The trip between the train station and the Ganges riverfront costs ₹100 in an auto-rickshaw. (updated May 2023)

By bus

6 Bus station (E of Varanasi Junction NR ). An auto from the bus station to the Ganges riverfront costs ₹150. (updated May 2023)

Arriving from Nepal Buses are available from major cities in Nepal to the border city of Sunauli. From the Sunauli bus station, take a rickshaw (₹200) to the border crossing, get your passport stamped on the Nepali side then walk through the border. After 100 m of walking through no-man's land, you will find the Indian immigration office hidden away on the left-hand side of the road. After going through Indian immigration, walk 300 m and find the bus stop on the right-hand side. From there, take the government bus to Gorakhpur, not the private lines which are far less comfortable and stop everywhere. The bus trip between the border and Gorakhpur takes 4 hours and costs ₹60. To reach Varanasi from Gorakhpur, you can either take a train from Gorakhpur Junction (5-7 trains per day, 5.5-7 hour journey, ₹200-800 cost) or a bus (hourly, at least 8-hour journey, ₹130 cost). Budhha Air has also some packages for devotees visiting Varanasi. The cheapest option is perhaps to take the bus in Kathmandu from the Monkey Temple to Birganj/Raxaul for about ₹700, and take a train from Ra

Getting around

Many streets are too narrow to be reached by cycle-rickshaw, auto-rickshaw, and car and therefore, you may have to walk a bit to reach your destination.

By foot Walking is the only way to see the waterfront and the ghats - but be ready to be hot, sweaty, and lost - locals are usually happy to point you in the right direction. The names of ghats and signs pointing to restaurants and hotels are often painted on the walls in Roman letters. For better orientation, walk into any bookstore and pick up a small guide/map book that will have the list and description of all the ghats.

By rickshaw The chaotic streets of Varanasi are sometimes too much to handle on foot. Therefore, it will often be convenient to travel by cycle rickshaw, E-rickshaw or auto-rickshaw. A short journey of a few kilometres should cost under ₹50, while a longer journey within the city, such as between the ghats and the train station, will cost ₹100. Further journeys, such as to Sarnath (10 km), cost ₹500 there and back (with a one- to two-hour waiting period) or ₹300 one way by auto-rickshaw. There is a pre-paid auto-rickshaw stand at Varanasi Junction NR .

By car or taxi While taxis and cars-for-hire do exist, you can hire them for airport/railway/bus station transfers and for major city tour specially for BHU,Sarnath and Ramnager tour. You can travel from other cities to Varanasi by car as it's well connected to the major cities of the country.

Big Cab Varanasi. Big Cab Varanasi is also present in Varanasi. (updated Apr 2024)

By bicycle Bicycle rental is available from many vendors. Inquire at your hotel.

See

Varanasi is not a city with distinct tourist destinations; the experience is in watching the spectacle of life and death on the river and meandering through the alleys of the old city.

1 Jantar Mantar (Man Mandir Observatory), Terrace of Man Singh Ghat. Jantar Mantar literally means a combination of instruments and formulas (jantar = instrument and mantar = formula). It is an observatory consisting of a series of masonry architecture of unique form, each with a specialized function for astronomical measurement. Jai Singh, king of Amber, built 5 such observatories across northern and western India. Apart from Varanasi the other 4 places are Jaipur, Delhi, Ujjain and Mathura (one in Mathura no longer exist). The Varanasi Jantar Mantar is much smaller compared to the ones in Delhi and Jaipur. The observatory houses 6 instruments of 5 types (it has 2 Samrat Yantra or sun dial). Apart from the observatory, the Man Mahal houses a Virtual Experiential Museum showing a series of light and sound shows. The shows include one on the mythology of the Ganges and its course. There are models depicting life in Varanasi and including a model of a pan shop. There is an interactive musical gallery. 2 Ramnagar Fort (Ramnagar Palace) (on the eastern bank of the river). The fort of the King of Kashi, built in 1750 in the Mughal style, is now a museum with a collection of ancient weapons and other artefacts. It was built by Raja Balwant Singh of Banaras of red sandstone and has a unique blend of Mughal and Rajput architecture. It has grand courtyards, intricate carvings and beautiful gardens. Inside the palace, there is a costume museum, famous for showcasing the royal collection of costumes and textiles including traditional Varanasi sarees, weapons and many other antiques. (entry 200 rupies - updated October 2024) 3 Rajghat ((north of Malviya Bridge next to Rajghat)). 9AM - 5PM. This archaeological site was the result of a chance discovery in the 1940s when the Kashi Railway Station was extended. After a couple of excavations, a structure was unearthed dating back to the 2nd century BCE. The archaeological evidence suggested that the place was continuously inhabited since the 8th century BCE. Today it consists of several scattered brick structures rising only to a height of 3 ft (0.91 m). ₹ 200 (same ticket for Lal Khan Tomb and Rajghat). (updated Oct 2024) 4 Rani Laxmibai Janmasthali. Birthplace of Rani Laxmibai. It has been converted into a small gallery. A statue of Laxmibai riding a galloping horse welcomes visitors to the gallery. The walls behind and on the two sid

Do

Bathe in the Ganges - Over 60,000 people come to the ghats every day to take a dip in the sacred waters of the Ganga, most notably at sunrise. This is a fantastic sight to see. However, due to the municipal sewage drains that discharge raw sewage into the river, along with sunken corpses, there is a risk of infection from numerous diseases such as hepatitis and bacteria such as e-coli. Reports have shown that the Ganges water has a faeca coliform MPN of 88,000 per 100 ml, compared to a desirable faecal coliform MPN of 500 per 100 ml. Walking tours are operated by many companies, walking tours are a great way to see some of the harder-to-find sights such as the Flower Market and Ayurvedic Herb Market Boat rides - Very popular, especially at sunrise and sunset. Boats can either be rowboats or motorboats. The most popular sunset ride is to start at Dasaswamedh Ghat or one of the many ghats along the river and head up to Manikarnika Ghat to see the cremations, then down to Dasaswamedh just after sunset to watch the evening aarti ceremony from the boat. Sunrise is another magical time for a ride, when the ghats are filled with Hindus bathing and starting their day - one of the most famous sights in India. You can bargain the price of the boat ride to around ₹50/person per hour. During the boat ride, other boats, usually manned by children, will float up to your boat to sell bowls with flowers and a candle to be offered to the river (₹10) or masala chai (₹10), or various trinkets that are overpriced. It is recommended to avoid polluting the river further by 'offering' non-biodegradable objects to the river. At Nishadraj Ghat, a few minutes walk from Assi Ghat, you can find a boat driver named Bhomi, a local singer renowned for his incredible voice and charming, beautiful songs; during the boat ride he sings anything from local folk songs to modern film songs and old devotional ones, and often improvises lyrics over his own songs to communicate with you and the various people gathered on the ghats. Explore the alleyways - The network of historical lanes and alleys behind Dasaswamedh, Man Mandir, Tripura Bhairavi, and Meer Ghat are not to be missed. In the main alley behind Dasaswamedh Ghat (entrance to the left at the top of the stairs), there are hole in the wall chai and lassi shops, silk merchants, western-style cafes, a small perfumery, a traditional instrument store, and a number of handicraft stalls. Sadly, though, other than the notable exceptions of Gangtok and Shimla, Indian cities refuse to ban bikes, regardless of how narrow an alley may be, and Var

Buy

Varanasi is famous for its fine silk - it's on offer everywhere, but shop around and haggle!

Markets 1 Gowdalia Chowk, Gowdalia. One of the most busy shopping areas in Varanasi. Products that are available here include silk and zari sarees, salwar suits, garments, bags and handicrafts. (updated Feb 2020) Shri Khatu Ji wholesale Bazar (Khatu ji), Near Hotel Costa Rivera, Maldahiya Varanasi (Nearest To Cantt Railway Station), ☏ +91 8299247566, [email protected]. 10AM TO 9PM. Banarasi Silk Sarees At Wholesale Rates. (updated Dec 2022)

Books Harmony Books, Assi Ghat B 1/158 (a two-minute walk from the river front), ☏ +91-542-2310218, [email protected]. A bookshop with a real bookshop feel. The owner is very knowledgeable about his stock. (updated Jul 2017) Kashi Annapoorna Book House, B 1/185 Main Assi Ghat (above the river front), ☏ +91 9453882138, [email protected]. A small bookshop with books on subjects related to India, Hinduism, and Buddhism. (updated Jul 2017)

Clothes and handicrafts Dirty Laundry (Located on the main road that runs along the length of the ghats. If you walk out to the main road from the small burning ghat go to the right and walk about 1km. If you go to the road from the main ghat head to the left for about 1km. Look for the big purple signage.). A traveller's secondhand shop, Dirty Laundry sells used clothing, electronics, books and other travel essentials. They will take your old goods on exchange. Loan Arts & Crafts, S-20/52a, Nepali Kothi (next to Hotel Surya and Varanasi Arts Emporium), ☏ +91 9336062161, [email protected]. 12. Silk carpets, hand-made, hand-knotted oriental Persian carpets, silk products, silk pashminas, hand-embroidered and hand-stitched cashmere wool, papier mache and lots of handicrafts. Mehrotra Factory, K 4-8A, Lal Ghat, Raj Mandir (near Brahma Ghat, follow the multiple yellow signs), ☏ +91 542 2435892. Pratha, Shop No.38, Kashi Anathalaya Building, Maldahiya (by the Main Anathalaya Building), ☏ +91 9451089499. noon to 8PM. A small shop by the corner, showcasing Hand Block printed cotton kurties, suits and accessories. This store does not offer commissions to guides. Sri Guru Perfumers, D, 32/15, Munshi Ghat, Bengali Tola Lane (before Spicie Bites; enter Bengali Tola Lane on the way to Dashashwamedh Ghat; turn at the Bank of Baroda ATM; there is another perfume shop on the corner before Sri Guru Perfumers, so beware). Very nice selection of perfumes and natural oils, some of them made by the family of the owner Shankar Roy. Homemade incense i

Eat

Banarasi Khana, or local delicacies, are known for their flavours. Many dishes here are flavoured with asafoetida, ginger, bay leaves, cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, and/or dried fenugreek leaves. Benares Dum Aloo is different from the dum aloo cooked elsewhere in India because the potatoes are stuffed with and cooked in gravy that includes jaggery, fennel, and chilli paste. Varanasi is also known for its street food and chaat vendors. Aloo chaat is very common. Varanasi Paan is famous all over India. Paan is an assortment of flavours wrapped in a betel leaf. There are two versions: One that includes tobacco, and one that includes only sweet flavours. The exact ingredients depend on how much you offer, which can be as little as ₹10 or as much as ₹300. To eat the sweet version, shove the entire leaf in your mouth at once and chew until you swallow! Lassi from Pahalwan Lassi at Ravidas Gate in Lanka. Age-old shop for delicacies like Lassi, Malaiyyo and Rabri. Rabri Malai Balai is a popular dessert in Varanasi that includes milk, sugar, almonds, and pistachio nuts. You can find it served in hole-in-the-wall or sweet shops. There are plenty of food outlets with a very dynamic range in quality. The restaurants closer to the ghats cater more to foreign tourists, with variable success.

Local delicacies Kashi Chat Center: (near Godowlia Crossing) Good assortment of exotic chats. Try out the Aloo Tikia Chat. Lotus lounge: (at mansoravor ghat) through the alleys, great food a must for every visitors. Madhur Jalpan: The best place for laddoos and other famous sweet delicacies is 'Madhur Jalpan', a shop that has been frequented by more than two prime ministers of India! Madhur Jalpan is on Baradev - next to the Kainiya Chitra Mandir. Again, on a small alleyway, but the sweets are to die for. Shiv Lassi Bhandar: (near the main gate of RamNagar Fort) Lassi with layers of Malai and Rabri. Superb Stuff.

Budget A C Shahi Restaurant & Kesari Restaurant near Dasashwmedh ghat in Godaulia and Shahi Restaurant near Rathyatra crossing serve very good vegetarian north and south Indian dishes. Cozy Corner Restaurant (CCR) Homely, healthy and hygienic is the motto of CCR. They specialise in Indian, South Indian and Chinese and serve fantastic dosas and chole bhature. It's a nice cozy place to hang out and the service is superb. Located just down the street from Assi Ghat. Turn left on Dumrao Bagh (first street when walking from the ghat) and walk about 50 m, just past Open Hand. Phone +91 9369305877. Diamond Hotel and Jaika Restaurant near Vijaya Talkies Crossing in Bhelupur s

Drink & nightlife

Coffee Coffee is not as common in Varanasi as it is in the bigger and more cosmopolitan cities, and is often just available as the instant variety, served black or white. Even in those cafes that serve real coffee, it is still hit or miss whether it is of standard taste. All the cafes listed here at least sell the real stuff.

Aum Cafe, B1/201 Assi Ghat (Walk up steps next to Pizza Town on river-front.), ☏ +91 93353 61122. Tu-Sun: 7AM-4:30PM. A crystals-yoga-type cafe. OK coffee. Healthy and tasty meals. Wide range of herbal tea and fresh juice options. Bright interior. Small gift shop. Early opening makes it convenient for breakfasts, though options are limited. Brown Bread Bakery, 25/42 Ganga Mahal (in the main alley leading from Dashashwamedh Ghat.), ☏ +91 9838888823. Simple cafe. Excellent pastries, bread, and Indian dishes. Coffee. Good selection of organic cheeses. Multi-grain bread sold by the loaf. El Cafe 80, Dumraon Bagh Colony, Assi Ghat (from the ghat, take the first left; cafe is on the right), ☏ +91 9871280230. 10AM-10PM. Ok Coffee. Good pizza, pasta, and Indian dishes. Western and Indian breakfasts. Cosy atmosphere. Floor-cushion seating, Table seats. Free Wi-Fi. Imok (in the main alley leading from Dashashwamedh Ghat). Small corner cafe. Large painting of HH Dalai Lama and Lord Shiva on the wall. Probably the best coffee in the lanes. People-watching balcony. Mona Lisa Cafe (in the main alley leading from Dashashwamedh Ghat). Bright and cool interior. Rooftop seating. Friendly service. Mediocre coffee and pastries. The Mark Cafe, Dumraon Bagh Colony, Assi Ghat (from the ghat, take the first left; cafe is on the right), ☏ +91 93053 06392. 7:30AM-8:30PM. Coffee, pizza, pasta. Backstreet atmosphere. Experienced barista - touted as the best coffee in the area. Food is ok. Reasonable prices. Free Wi-Fi. One of the only cafes in the area to open early and serve breakfast.

Tea While chai shops are found throughout the city, a few are worthy of special note:

Engineer Chai Wala, Assi Road, Chauraha, Assi Ghat (a five minute walk from the ghat, vertically opposite Haifa Hotel; smaller branch near The Mark Cafe in Assi Ghat), ☏ +91 85729 73351. 8AM-9:30PM. Run by a guy with an engineer's degree in solar energy who has a passion for chai. More than ten varieties of tea sold in clay cups. Fast service. Thick and delicious chai. A variety of lassi - plain and flavoured. (updated Mar 2023)

Alcohol Alcohol is available at a few restaurants and hotels, such as the Radisson and Taj. There are several wine shops in the old city but the

Sleep

The most interesting area to stay is around the ghats, which are the main attractions for foreigners and are close to the religious attractions. However, this area is extremely noisy and many accommodation choices here are subpar, so do some research before you book. An alternative to staying in Varanasi is to stay near the main railway station (Varanasi Junction). This area has some very nice places and is about 10 minutes away on a tuk-tuk. Another alternative is the much quieter Sarnath, 10 km from Varanasi, but it takes more than 75 minutes each way to reach Varanasi by tuk-tuk (₹200). Some budget accommodations advertise free morning and evening boat rides along the river. However, the boat will take you up the river and then let the passengers know that for the return trip, there is a fee of ₹60 per person. Those who do not want to pay can get out of the boat and walk back. Varanasi, particularly during summer, is prone to many hours of power outages a day. It is best to double check that your fan or air-con is run from a backup generator, or you may not have it for much of the day.

Budget Cheaper hotels and hostels can be found around the "Assi ghat" and train station areas, check hot water and wifi for yourself.

Hostels 1 Ganges Nirvana Free Hostel (Ganges Nirvana Community & Homestay), Shashwat Shandilya House, Plot no. 175, Lane no.2, Shree Ram Nagar Colony (Near Manduadih Railway Station), ☏ +91 9999230102, +91 9235135611, +91 5422360331. The Ganges Nirvana Free Hostel a small hostel. It is very simple and work is underway to make it more homely. For example by painting the walls with graffiti. If you want to help out with any small thing, you are welcome to stay for free. You will stay with people from couchsurfing, workaway and other places, and the owner often arranges small free trips (just share the expenses for petrol) around and outside of the city. Great rooftop terrace in a noise-free area of Varanasi. Rooms range from free to ₹500 (double room) per day. (updated Aug 2019) International Travellers' Hostel (ITH Varanasi), C-32/4, Vidyapeeth Road (5-min walk from Varanasi Junction station, opposite Gate #2 of Vidyapeeth University), ☏ +91-542-2220058, [email protected]. Check-in: noon, check-out: 11:00. A hostel run out of an ancestral family house. The owner lives in Germany and his staff manage the hostel. There are mixed and female dormitories available with 4-5 beds each. There is a cottage-style superior room with en-suite bathroom for the ones with a slightly higher budget, and a tent for the ones on extremely tig

Go next

Agra - the next point on the tourist "Golden Triangle". Buses and trains, including overnight trains, leave several times a day. Bodh Gaya - the place where Lord Buddha gained enlightenment, and the most sacred place to Buddhists - 6 to 7 hours by bus Delhi - The capital can be reached via a 13-hour train journey. Gaya - One of the most sacred places to do Pind Dan (funeral offerings for the benefit of the soul of the deceased). A 4+ hour drive from Varanasi. Jaunpur - The district just northwest of Varanasi. Primarily a rural area. Khajuraho - South of Varanasi. A number of 1,000-year-old Hindu and Jain temples. A little remote, but worth the effort to get there. Lucknow - The capital of Uttar Pradesh. Known for its refined cuisine. A convenient place to break a journey to Delhi or Rishikesh. Chunar - Located 55 km away Chunar is known for its gigantic fort overlooking the Ganges. The town is also known for Mughal era tomb and dargha along with a British era Christian cemetery. Prayagraj (Allahabad) - Another spiritual city along the Ganges, Prayagraj can be reached via a 3-hour bus journey or by using the train. Sarnath - The place where Buddha gave his first teaching after his enlightenment, and one of the four main pilgrimage sites for Buddhists. 10 km from Varanasi (ghat area) - 1 hour by auto. Rates from Assi Ghat: Auto - ₹400 one way - ₹700 return, including an hour waiting time. Taxi - over ₹1,500 for a return journey, including one hour waiting time. (updated March 2023)