Tunis

Understand

Located on the Mediterranean coast but lacking much in the way of beaches, Tunis has been spared the onslaught of package tourism to the resorts to the north and south. The city center is located about 10 km from the sea, on the shores of Lake Tunis. Tunis started out as a modest village compared to cities like Carthage, Kairouan and Mahdia. It eventually became the capital of the Almohad Caliphate in 1159, and has been conquered by various Muslim and Christian empires after that. Tunis has been the capital of Tunisia since independence in 1956, and is today the commercial and cultural heart of Tunisia as well as the most important traffic hub. In 2014, the capital was home to 640,000 people, and there were 2.9 million in the metropolitan area.

Tunis tourist information

Orientation Tunis is divided into the World Heritage Listed old city, known as the medina, and the new city, or ville nouvelle in French. Ave Habib Bourguiba is the large thoroughfare running through the new city from the Clock Tower to the Cathedral of St Vincent de Paul. It then turns into Ave de France, which runs for a few blocks until ending at the Place de la Victoire and the Port de France, a large free-standing gate that used to be the entrance to the medina. This can be a good landmark for taxi drivers, as some of the smaller streets nearby may not be familiar to the drivers. The Port de France also serves as a good entry point for exploring the medina. Rue Jemaa Zaytouna leads past many shops all the way to the Zaytouna Mosque, the great mosque of Tunis which sits at the center of the medina. Running obliquely to Rue Jemaa Zaytouna, and also with an outlet near the Port de France, is the Rue de la Kasbah. This runs all the way through the medina to the Place du Gouvernment and the Place de la Kasbah, a huge bleak square subject to heavy security. It is fairly easy to move between the two streets by cutting through in the labyrinthine medina, and it is easy to keep your bearings and find an exit. Rue Jemaa Zaytouna seems to be a better entry point from the Port de France at night, remaining relatively well traveled. Rue de la Kasbah, on the other hand, is active after dark on the Place de la Kasbah side, but is extremely dark and rather menacing near the Port de France. It is recommended to get a feel for the medina during the day so that you will feel more confident if you find yourself and alone and need to find a landmark at night.

Climate

One of the northernmost cities on the African continent, the climate in Tunis is Mediterranean although a bit warmer than on the Eu

Getting there

By plane

The major carrier at Tunis-Carthage is Tunisair, serving many destinations. The major western carriers who service Tunis-Carthage are Air France, ITA Airways and Lufthansa, from London, Paris, Rome or Frankfurt. Air Malta offers occasional flights to Tunis from Malta, so you can puddle-jump through the Mediterranean. Also, flights from other African cities are common ways to access Tunis if you are traveling to Tunisia from another African destination or vice versa. Tunisian law requires all currency to be exchanged within the country. It's illegal to take Tunisian currency (DT) outside the country, though it can be done at most travel desks if you sign a waiver, but this is not advisable as Customs Officers will force you to change the dinars to hard currency before permitting you to travel if they find the currency. You can exchange money at the airport or at your hotel. There are many currency exchange booths with quite OK rates. You should retain the receipt for the transaction; without it, the bank may cause difficulty converting unspent dinars back into your own currency. If you are departing and making a connecting flight, do not accept duty-free alcohol that is not in a sealed bag - the intermediate airport may not allow you to board your second flight with it. For the same reason, insist on a printed receipt. 1 Tunis-Carthage Airport (TUN IATA) (8 km away from the centre, but well within urban Tunis). Airport is small and in a reasonable shape with all standard facilities. There is a free airport Wi-Fi, as well as in the several restaurants, including Caffe Lindo, but it doesn't work often. International flights will arrive on the ground floor of the airport, where there are lots of ATMs and cafes, but no luggage storage facilities. Toilets are clean and have attendants that rarely ask for change after use. (updated Nov 2018) Getting to the airport:

A taxi into the city center — insist on the meter — should cost around 5-7 DT during the day and around 10 DT at night. Alternatively, buses depart fairly regularly during the day (but not at night) and charge a fraction of the price. Beware of the taxi drivers. At night some will ask up to 40 DT depending on where you are going. In a struggling economy business has become even more competitive. An unspoken rule is the first taxi driver who grabs your luggage and places it in the trunk of his car makes the contract for your transportation. It's not uncommon to be barraged with over ten taxi drivers at once as you walk outside the terminal. They can reach for your bag aggressively—not to

Getting around

Free maps of Tunis and Tunisia are available at the National Tourism Office, to the north-east of the clock tower (directly east of the main Medina gate). The tourist office offers assistance in many languages.

By train Tunis is well-served by a convenient five-line light metro system run by Transtu. The interchange hubs for all lines are in the centre of town at Place de la République and Place de Barcelone. Ticket prices are dependent on how many sections of network (zones) traveled through. Single way 1-section tickets cost 0.500 DT. Most tourist attractions are within two sections of the city centre and single way 2-section tickets cost 0.650 DT.

The TGM suburban train line, starting at Tunis Marine station on Lines 1-4, connects to La Goulette (ferries), Sidi Bou Saïd, Carthage and the beaches of Marsa. Tickets cost 0.800 DT each way. At Tunis Marine, be aware that there is an extreme dearth of signage. No obvious signs even say TGM, and on the maps on the trains themselves the station is marked as Tunis Nord. If you arrive at the station on the Tunis Metro, the TGM platform will be perpendicular to the metro cars and is easily accessed across the tracks. Tickets are sold at the end farthest from the metro stop. Signs for station names along the TGM differ slightly from what appears on the onboard map, but if you can see the signs from the train and it is free of graffiti, a not uncommon problem, it is easy to tell where you are. It is not unusual for the trains to stop and wait on the tracks after leaving Tunis Nord or upon return. This usually does not last an extraordinary amount of time, and you will likely be better off not following the example of the optimistic youths that decide to leap from the car and walk along the tracks into the city. Many stations along the TGM don't have full-time ticket vendors, so if you are making several trips along the line while visiting Carthage or Sidi Bou Said, you might be forced to risk traveling without a ticket. The guidebooks say that officials will sometimes get on the train and check tickets, so travel without a ticket at your own risk. It might be safest to buy a return to your farthest destination. The price difference should be minimal, and that way you might plausibly just have boarded the train, and your ticket will be valid for wherever you get on. The safest option will be to check with the ticket vendors or buy a ticket if you can find them. As of February 2025, the line is being repaired between La Goulette Casino and Khereddine, with trains from Tunis terminating at Le Casino. You can

See

Medina Non-Muslims may not enter Islamic monuments such as mosques.

1 Tunis Medina (Médina de Tunis). The world heritage listed old town is a must-see colorful, crowded labyrinth of decorated old houses, vaults and street vendors. You can move around by foot only. You get a feel of medieval life. (updated Nov 2018) 2 Grande Mosquée Zitouna, Rue Tourbet El Bey. The largest and oldest mosque in Tunisia and an important landmark, this Aghlabite mosque dates back to the 8th century, although the distinctive square minaret is a much later 19th century addition. It has 160 pillars, that come from the ruins of Carthage. Modest dress essential, but non-Muslims can only enter a viewing platform on the edge of the courtyard (3 DT), not the mosque itself. Still an active mosque, but closed to tourists after the 2011 revolution. 3 Sidi Youssef Dey Mosque (Mosquée Sidi Youssef Dey), Souk Trok. Opened in 1631, this was the first Ottoman mosque to be built in Tunis. It is the largest Hanafi mosque in the city, was extensively restored in the late 19th century and is now a part of the University of Ez-Zitouna. A historical monument, the Youssef Dey mosque has a beautiful octagonal minaret and white marble mausoleum. 4 Medersa Bachia (Madrasa El Bachia), Souk El Belat. Quran school from the 18th century, a monument since 1912. It is notable for its public fountain located outside the entrance. In the 1980s it was converted into an artisan school with students studying leather craft, jewellery and embroidery. Non-Muslims may not enter. 5 Bab El Bahr (Porte de France), Place de la Victoire. The gate to the sea, which remains unchanged since its erection in 1848. It can be found on the Avenue de France. Before it was built it was an empty space where you could see the Mediterranean on one side and Lake Tunis on the other. 6 Bab Saadoun, Rue Bab Sadoune. Another gate, constructed in 1350 with one arch, then rebuilt in 1881 with three arches to facilitate commerce. 7 Tourbet el-Bey, Rue Tourbet el-Bey. An impressive 18th-century mausoleum, the final resting place for over 160 princes and ministers and their families. The eight-pointed star inside represents the doors to paradise. 8 Dar Ben Abdallah Museum (Musée du Patrimoine Traditionnel), Rue Sidi Kassem. Tu-Su 09:30–16:30. A small but interesting folk museum within an 18th-century palace in the medina, covering the everyday life of a rich merchant in the Ottoman era with exhibits including faience, stucco ornament, costumes and furniture. 5 DT. (updated Nov 2018)

New town 9 Avenue de France. One of the busiest

Do

Simply wandering around Tunis can be an interesting experience, especially around the medina with its ancient buildings including mosques, gates and market stalls. All types of commodities including slaves used to be traded here, but today's market is mainly that of day-to-day goods, with many local handicrafts. Shopping and haggling at this colorful place is certainly an experience different from what you may be used to at home. Another good place for a walk is Tunis' largest park, Belvedere Park, which houses the Museum of Modern Art and the municipal zoo (closed Mondays), and overlooks Lake Tunis. The Théâtre municipal de Tunis, mentioned in See above, is more than just a sight. If interested in classical culture you can go and see an opera, ballet, or other production there. Hammams (traditional public steam baths) are common in the Muslim part of the Mediterranean and also in Tunis. Formerly the only place for all but the upper classes to clean themselves, hammams are still a part of the local culture — so bathing in one of these is a cultural experience in itself. They are often located near mosques as people used to wash themselves before prayer; ask a local where the nearest hammam is (the medina is the easiest place to find one). Remember that a hammam is either men or women only, or open to men in the morning and night and to ladies in the afternoon. Bring spare underwear, flip flops, soap and a towel.

Buy

ATMs are a convenient way of getting money without going to a bureau de change and there are many Mastercard and Visa cash-points around the city. However, ATMs are not generally found in hotels, even the major ones. Money exchange booths at the airport offer good rates, as competition is high.

The 1 souq in the Medina makes for a fascinating stroll. Tiny shops overflowing with stuff; people selling, buying, milling about; skeletal cats lurking in the shadows; the smells of essential oils, spices, frying food and rotting garbage; the sounds of the muezzin, raï, football on the radio, Arabic and French. The Tunis Medina's main routes are labeled "touristique", but even a few steps off the beaten track it's a real, working market. Behind the often scruffy façades hide old palaces, mosques, Islamic schools. Compared to Morocco or even Sousse you will not be hassled here. Bab El Bahr (The large stone-arch "French Gate" at the head of Avenue DeFrance) is a good starting point for the Souk. The goldsmiths are close to Bab Bnet. Haggle if you wish to buy anything. Prices paid for items are given in July 2012, with the caveat that it is not known if they are good prices. They are provided just for reference. The merchant's first offer is in parentheses: 5 DT (12 DT) for a low-end scarf, 20 DT (45 DT, 65 DT for a comparable box at another vendor) for an 8" nacre inlaid hexagonal wooden box, 30 DT (80 DT) for a leather bandolier. If you are unsure, try getting a first estimate from several vendors before you buy. As always, if you give a price and they agree, you will be expected to pay. 2 Halfaouine. A cheap, traditional food market, located at Place Halfaouine, near the railway station. (updated Nov 2018) There are little stores near every hotel in Tunis, where you can buy everything you need, but their prices are high. So it's better to go shopping to other parts of the city. Approximately 90% of goods presented in Tunis are of local origin. There are networks of state supermarkets Monoprix and General in the capital.

Eat

Most hotels include breakfast, and some include dinner. There are countless coffee shops with bitter coffee, other drinks and French-style pastries to enjoy, as well as sandwich shops. Count yourself lucky if you find a dish that does not include canned tuna! Know that during Ramadan it's difficult to find an open restaurant during daytime. If you want alcohol when eating go to a hotel as most serve beer/wine, as do some upmarket restaurants in the Berges du Lac area of Tunis.

Budget 1 The Corner, 36 Rue de Syrie, ☏ +216 71 834 374. Daily, 07:00-14:00. Breakfast cafe. (updated Feb 2024) 2 Restaurant Ojja Chouchou, 11 Rue Borj Bourguiba. Popular so it may be busy, but the service is fast so people will be coming and going. Large portions. (updated Feb 2024)

Mid-range

3 Café de Paris Brasserie, Avenue Habib Bourguiba, ☏ +216 71 256 601. A good restaurant with a beautiful interior and some outdoor tables. You can choose among pizza, couscous and a variety of salad. Also serves alcohol. (updated Feb 2024) 4 Etoile de La Medina, Boulevard Bab Bnet. Tucked away it is something special. Traditional food and decor. Welcoming with plentiful amounts of food. (updated Feb 2024) 5 La Sirène, La Goulette. Daily, noon-midnight. You pick the fish from their market and they fry it right there. Indoor and outdoor seating. Can be busy so enjoy the water views while you wait. (updated Feb 2024) 6 L'Orient, 7 de, Rue Ali Bach Hamba (close to porte de France), ☏ +216 71 252 061. The steaks are bland, the fish good and local food such as Berber Lamb is excellent. The service is prompt. (updated Feb 2024) 7 La Mamma, 11 Bis, Rue de Marseille, ☏ +216 55 669 032, [email protected]. Very cosy restaurant on several floors. Good Italian inspired food. Has live music and is open to midnight. (updated Feb 2024)

Splurge 8 Dar el-Jeld, 5-10 rue Dar el-Jeld (near the Prime Minister's residence in a hotel/spa), ☏ +216 70 016 190. Reservations online. Perhaps the best of the restaurants in Tunis, this restaurant pays attention to every single detail. The food is excellent, and the management speaks English and French fluently, and can recommend various dishes. Everything is recommended, though the couscous is simply good, but not incredible. The staff is very friendly, but can turn somehow cold if you just order main and drinks, but no dessert and starter. (updated Nov 2024) 9 Restaurant Dar Slah, 145 Rue de la Kasbah, ☏ +216 58 261 026. Luxurious seafood restaurant with a large terrace surrounded by palm trees. In medina so can be hard to find, look for the yellow sign and doo

Drink & nightlife

Be careful about what bars you frequent, ladies should perhaps try to bring a man out with them. Local beers are Celtia and the elusive Stella, which is rarely seen but exists on RateBeer. Both are lagers. Local liqueurs include Boukha ("boo-k"), usually taken straight or with coke, and Thibina, which is usually taken straight with a single ice cube. Alcohol is mostly only served in hotel bars. The Lac 1 and Lac 2 areas do not permit alcohol to be served.

1 Le Boeuf sur le Toit, 3 avenue Fatouma Bourguiba (in La Soukra 10 km northeast of downtown). The name means "the Ox on the Roof", and trendy people come for food, drinks, live music, DJs, and a dance floor. 2 Bar Jamaica, 49 Avenue Habib Boutguiba. On the 10th floor of the Hotel el-Hana International, this is a funky and popular destination for locals and foreigners, with music and outdoor seating available. 3 Hotel Africa Lobby Bar, Avenue Habib Bourguiba. A bit smoky, but has all of the local drinks save Stella, and is one of the few places that serves alcohol during Ramadan. 4 Brasserie les 2 Avenues, Ave Habib Bourguib (Hotel el-Hana lnternational). Great location with views over Avenue Habib Bourguiba. 5 Piano Bar, Avenue Mohamed V, 45 (Hotel La Maison Blanche). A good place for a drink, located in a 5-star hotel. In addition to these, some major beach bars and clubs are located in La Marsa, about 15 km to the northeast.

Cafes 6 Café M'Rabet, Souk Trok (in the Medina). Cafe and restaurant. (updated May 2015) 7 Café de Paris, Avenue Habib Bourguiba. 06-24. One of the major cafes along the avenue, very popular and lively. Panorama Medina (west of Zaytuna Mosque in the Medina). 09:00-21:00. Beautifully decorated café and tea house in the heart of the Medina. A large rooftop offers stunning views over the old buildings and of the many mosques around. DT2 for tea, DT5 for shisha. (updated Feb 2018)

Sleep

Most tourists will be interested in accommodation in either the Medina or in Ville Nouvelle. The medina includes the youth hostel and several other budget accommodations, and the high end Dar El Jed. The Ville Nouvelle offers a large number of budget and mid-range accommodation, many grouped within a few blocks of each other north of Place Barcelone. Some places expect couples to present some sort of proof of marriage in order to rent a two-person room.

Budget 1 YHA Tunis Auberge Medina, 25 rue Saïda Ajoula, ☏ +216 98 578 638. Also referred to as Auberge de Jeunesse and Tunis Youth Hostel. Buried deep within the Medina and a bit of a challenge to find, although there are intermittent signs along the way. During the day you can just push through the crowd of shoppers straight up the Rue de la Kasbah from the Port de France until you see the signs pointing to your right, just after the restaurant Dar Slah, although this route might be intimidating after dark. This former palace of a sultan is architecturally impressive. Rooms are basic and cooled only by fan. The included evening meal is filling. Breakfast, a simple affair of French bread and coffee, is a bit ropey and is served in the large open courtyard. The communal bathrooms, however, are not cleaned regularly, and may border on offensive. The shower times are limited to an hour in the morning and at night, though hot water may not be available at these times. Plan on using the local hammams for all hot water and cleaning needs. 8 DT incl. breakfast.

Mid-range 2 La Maison Doree, 6 bis rue de Hollande, ☏ +216 71 240 632, fax: +216 71 240 631. This hotel captures a slightly faded, colonial era charm. Rooms are basic (the hotel building is old) but clean. Excellent restaurant with bar (2.5 DT Celtia) that provides room service. Breakfast is included in the price, and the croissants are better than average. Rooms come with ensuite sink and shower, but shared toilets - a room with a toilet is an extra 10 DT. Some rooms overlook the local tram, which can be excessively loud - you may want to look out the window to the street below, and possibly listen to the noise of the passing tram. Located half a block north of Place Barcelone. 32-52 DT. 3 Hotel Transatlantique, Rue De Yougoslavie 106, ☏ +216 71 334 319. Ground plus four levels, the first three accessible by lift. Nice mosaics. Lots of lounge space near the lobby. A little noisy, but nicely located. There is a roof accessible on the fourth floor (turn left after climbing the stairs, walk to the end, and open the unlocked door to your left): good

Go next

Suburbs Reachable by the metropolitan light rail service, Métro Léger de Tunis. Tickets are less than one dinar and service is frequent, but busy during rush hour. The station is located a few hundred metres to the east of the clock tower and the raised Trans-African Highway No. 1 directly east from the main drag (Avenue Habib Bourgouiba; the one with the main Medina gate - just keep walking away from the Medina). The station is impossible to miss - it's a large building parallel to the road on the south side. Note that if you're heading out this way, there is also a national tourism office on the north-east side of the clock tower (that effectively demarcates the edge of Tunis' larger buildings before the highway), and they provide free maps and advice regarding Tunis and Tunisia.

Carthage, famously razed by the Romans with the few remnants now safely encased in a museum, easily reached by train. Get the TGM from east of the clock tower La Marsa, a beach-side settlement at the end of the TGM train line, just north of Sidi Bou Saïd Sidi Bou Saïd, a lovely village of white-and-blue houses and fancy cafés and restaurants, easily reached by train

Further away Kerkouane - Phoenician and Punic historical site 80 km west of Tunis Dougga - Impressive ruins of an isolated Roman village El Jem - With one of the world's best preserved Roman amphitheatres. Kairouan - An important pilgrimage destination for Muslims, known for its many mosques. Also worth visiting are the medina and the basins constructed during the Aghlabide dynasty. Sousse - A UNESCO World Heritage site thanks to its architecture, and one of Tunisia's most popular beach resorts. Tabarka - Old Phoenician and Roman port city near the Algerian border. It's also a great diving destination.