Tremé

Understand

The neighborhood has a rich Créole and African American history, as one of the oldest such districts in the country. Like most downtown inner-city New Orleans neighborhoods during the late 1800s through the early 1900s, it was integrated with French Créoles; not by White Americans. Present day Tremé is still integrated and its residents are still mostly Créole and African American, the homes are valued between $150,000 and $700,000. Residents of Tremé are working professionals, artists, musicians, community leaders, entrepreneurs and activists. There is much pride associated with having a Tremé address.

Getting there

By car A car is quite a good way to make your way around the Tremé if you intend to venture any further than the cemetery, Louis Armstrong Park, and the few sights just east of the park—getting to the specific restaurants is a pain without one, and it's not the safest part of town after dark to hang out waiting for buses or take long walks. Even for most of the B&Bs, having a car is going to be a big help. Parking is in ample supply.

By bus Bus 91 is a handy route if you are staying on the Esplanade, as it will take you down Esplanade to the border of the Quarter on Rampart, and on to the CBD. Weekends see pretty limited service, only every hour from 6AM to around 10PM, but on weekdays it's every half hour from 6AM-11PM. Buses 57 and 88 also run from the CBD along Rampart, with the ever handy route 88 going east to Marigny, Bywater, and on the Lower 9th Ward, and 57 going to Marigny and then up all the way on to the University of New Orleans. Buses 51,52,62, and 64 all run through the center of the Tremé along Claiborne to the Canal St in the west, and then the length of I-10 throughout central New Orleans to the east. Bus 84 is a handy and relatively frequent (by New Orleans standards) bus running the full length of Broad St through Midtown

By taxi Taxis work great on the way in, but getting one on the way out can be tough.

United Cab, ☏ +1 504 522-9771.

See

1 Backstreet Cultural Museum, 1531 St. Philip Street, ☏ +1 504-657-6700, [email protected]. Tu-Sa 10AM-4PM. Costumes of "Mardi Gras Indians" and other artifacts of Tremé culture. An easy walk a block and a half from the French Quarter; well worth the $8 admission fee not only for the displays but also for fascinating narration about local culture by the neighborhood curators. Standard $20; Locals, Seniors & Veterans $15; Children 12 & Under $10. (updated May 2024) 2 Basin Street Station, 501 Basin St, ☏ +1 504 293-2600. 9AM-5PM. The old Southern Railway train station has been remodeled; the ground floor has a visitors information center with gift shop, informative film and local museum exhibits free of charge. 3 Louis Armstrong Park and the New Orleans Jazz National Historical Park. Includes historic Congo Square, and statues of early jazz greats Louis Armstrong, Sidney Bechet, and Buddy Bolden. A visitor for the national historic park is located at 916 N Peters St in the French Quarter, but within Armstrong Park are 3 important buildings:. 4 Mahalia Jackson Theater of the Performing Arts, 801 N Rampart St, ☏ +1 504 525-1052. This is one of the largest performance venues in the city, and is frequently used by the Louisiana Symphony Orchestra and for large scale dance performances and musicals. The official address is listed as 801 N Rampart St, but it is away from Rampart towards the back of the park. 5 Municipal Auditorium, 1201 Saint Peter St, ☏ +1 504 218-0150. Old neoclassical stone auditorium from c. 1930. (Still closed from Katrina flood damage as of Sep 2018.) 6 Perseverance Hall #4, 901 N Rampart St, ☏ +1 504 589-4841. At the Saint Claude entrance to the park, is a 19th-century dance hall, usually vacant, but sometimes used for music, exhibits, and other events. 7 New Orleans African American Museum, 1418 Governor Nicholls St, ☏ +1 504 566-1136. W-Sa 11AM-4PM. Call ahead to make sure they'll be open. $7. 8 Saint Augustine Church, 1210 Governo

Do

1 Tour Tremé, 718 N Rampart Street (tour meets at The Voodoo Lounge), ☏ +1 504 666-8300. Sa Su M 10AM. Walking tour of Tremé. Explore this vibrant neighborhood with an informative and entertaining, licensed guide. See where Jazz was born. View film locations from HBO's Tremé. Reservations required. (updated Aug 2017) Mardi Gras Henriette Delille Street (formerly St. Claude Street) in front of the Backstreet Cultural Museum (see above) is a popular gathering place during New Orleans Mardi Gras -- on Lundi Gras ("Fat Monday", the day before Mardi Gras Day) the "Red Beans & Rice Parade", and on Mardi Gras Day brass bands, troupes of Mardi Gras Indians, and various costumed revelers make a stop here.

Live music 2 Candlelight Lounge, 925 N Robertson St, ☏ +1 504 571-1021. 8PM-very late. This is one of New Orleans' truly great neighborhood bars/jazz clubs. The famous Tremé Brass Band play here virtually every Wednesday, and it's quite the party! Any night with live music will be great here, though, and there are fewer non-locals when it's not Wednesday. Ignore people who tell you the neighborhood is not safe (taxi drivers) and go roll with the good times.

Buy

1 Zulu Memorabilia Club Shop, 732 N Broad St. Zulu is one of the most famous krewes at Mardi Gras. Zulu's fame stems both from their 100-year-long history, with origins as a satire of white parades during segregation, and for the prized "golden nuggets" (painted coconuts) that they throw to paradegoers. While the Krewe finds its headquarters in this building, the Zulu Memorabilia Club Shop has yet to open—but it will indubitably be cool.

Eat

1 Tremé Coffeehouse, 1501 Saint Philip Street (at corner of N. Villere), ☏ +1 504 218-8663. Th-F 7AM-2PM. Coffee, tea, pastries & snacks. (updated May 2024) 2 Dooky Chase, 2301 Orleans Ave, ☏ +1 504 821-0600. Tu-F 11AM-3PM, F-Sa 5:30PM-9PM. Dooky Chase is right up there with Willy Mae's below, vying for the status of most famous soul food restaurant in the city. The chicken, unsurprisingly, is a star on the menu, but for something more interesting, try the shrimp Clemenceau. Dooky Chase has fallen on tough times following Katrina, when the owners were forced to live in a FEMA trailer, and the opening times reflect the difficulty of getting the business going again in a now depopulated neighborhood. Call ahead, since their hours are as unpredictable as the rain--they might be open when you don't expect, or closed during regular hours. $12-25. 3 Lil Dizzy's, 1500 Esplanade Ave, ☏ +1 504-766-8687. Tu-F 11AM–3PM. Another Creole soul food restaurant in the neighborhood (surprise surprise!), run by members of the Baquet family, locally famous for great chefs and jazz musicians for generations. Since Dooky Chase and Willie Mae's are closed for breakfast, this is undisputedly the best place to go. (updated May 2024) 4 Willie Mae's, 2401 Saint Ann St, ☏ +1 504 822-9503. M-Sa 11AM-3PM. The sign above the front door says "Willie Mae's Restaurant", but everyone calls it "Willie