Tokyo

Understand

Over 500 years old, the city of Tokyo was once the modest fishing village of Edo (江戸 - literally Gate of the River) due to its location at the mouth of Sumida-gawa. The city only truly began to grow when it became the seat of the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1603, who decided to set up a new seat of power far away from the intrigues of the imperial court in Kyoto. After the Tokugawa Shogunate collapsed in the Meiji Restoration of 1868, the emperor and his court moved here from Kyoto, and the city was renamed to its current name, Tokyo, literally the "Eastern Capital". The metropolitan center of the country, Tokyo is the destination for business, education, modern culture, and government. (That's not to say that rivals such as Osaka won't dispute those claims.)

Culture

Tokyo is vast: it's best thought of not as a single city, but a constellation of cities that have grown together. Tokyo's districts vary wildly by character, from the electronic blare of Akihabara to the Imperial gardens and shrines of Chiyoda, from the hyperactive youth culture hub of Shibuya to the pottery shops and temple markets of Asakusa. If you don't like what you see, hop on the train and head to the next station, and you will find something entirely different. The sheer size and frenetic pace of Tokyo can intimidate the first-time visitor. Much of the city is a jungle of concrete and wires, with a mass of neon and blaring loudspeakers. At rush hour, crowds jostle in packed trains and masses of humanity sweep through enormous and bewilderingly complex stations. Don't get too hung up on ticking tourist sights off your list: for most visitors, the biggest part of the Tokyo experience is just wandering around at random and absorbing the vibe, poking your head into shops selling weird and wonderful things, sampling restaurants where you can't recognize a single thing on the menu (or on your plate), and finding unexpected oases of calm in the tranquil grounds of a neighbourhood Shinto shrine. It's all perfectly safe, and the locals will go to sometimes extraordinary lengths to help you if you just ask.

Expenses

The cost of living in Tokyo is not as astronomical as it once was. Deflation and market pressures have helped to make costs in Tokyo comparable to most other large cities in the developed world. Visitors from San Francisco, Los Angeles, New York, Chicago, London, Paris, Sydney, Toronto and Dublin will not find it any more expensive than back home. Rent will be significantly cheaper than big Western cities like NYC, London, San Francisco, and Los Angeles. Travelers should budget a

Getting there

In Japan, all roads, rails, shipping lanes and planes lead to Tokyo.

By plane

Tokyo (TYO IATA for all airports) and the Kanto Region are served by two major airports. Narita International Airport (NRT IATA) is Tokyo's main airport for international flights, but also serves a handful of domestic flights, particularly on low-cost carriers, and is convenient as a transit airport for those travelling between North America to most major East and Southeast Asian cities. Tokyo Haneda Airport (HND IATA), which is much closer to central Tokyo and thus much more convenient and economical for getting into Tokyo and vicinity, is the main airport for domestic flights, but has also become a major hub for international flights as of the 2020s, particularly on routes that see heavy business traffic. There is also Ibaraki Airport (IBR IATA) for some low-cost carriers, and the Chōfu Airfield, serving turboprop flights to the Izu Islands.

1 Narita International Airport (NRT IATA; 成田国際空港 Narita Kokusai Kūkō). Near the town of Narita nearly 70 km (43 mi) east of Tokyo. Serves most international flights into Tokyo as well as limited domestic flights, primarily on low-cost carriers. 2 Tokyo Haneda Airport (HND IATA; 羽田空港 Haneda Kūkō or 東京国際空港 Tōkyō Kokusai Kūkō). The busiest airport in Japan and second busiest in Asia, located in Ōta ward, 14 km (8.7 mi) south of central Tokyo. Serves most domestic flights, and expansions since 2010 have also turned it into a major international hub, primarily on routes with heavy business traffic. 3 Ibaraki Airport (IBR IATA; 茨城空港) (85 km and 1½ hr north of Tokyo). Skymark operates domestic flights to Sapporo, Kobe, Fukuoka and Okinawa. Spring Airlines operates service to Shanghai and Tigerair flies to Taipei. (updated Dec 2023) 4 Chōfu Airfield (no IATA, ICAO: RJTF; 調布飛行場 Chōfu hikōjō) (The nearest railway station is Nishi-Chōfu on the Keiō Line, a 15-minute walk away. Alternatively, you can take a bus from Chofu or Mitaka stations.). Serves only some turboprop flights to the Izu Islands south of Tokyo.

By train

5 Tokyo Station (東京駅 Tōkyō-eki). Tokyo is the nerve centre of railways in Japan. High speed Shinkansen services arrive here in the Chiyoda ward. (updated Nov 2023) For all trains on the northern route, you can get off at Ueno, while trains on the western route call at Shinagawa. Most non-Shinkansen services usually stop at Shibuya and Shinjuku stations as well. Ueno and Ikebukuro stations connect to the northern suburbs and neighboring prefectures. There are multiple departures every hour from Hakata station in Fukuoka t

Getting around

Instead of getting a headache from the many options for getting around in Tokyo, try Google Maps for navigation – it will show you various options and fares, so you can choose between the cheapest, the most convenient, or the quickest option, depending on your preferences. If you have a map of all metro and train stations, it might be quicker and cheaper to mainly go through them and ignore taking smallish bus rides to and from them, which will easily cost ¥200 per ride.

By train and subway Tokyo has one of the most extensive mass transit systems in the world and is the most used subway system in the world in terms of annual passenger rides. It is clean, safe and efficient – and confusing. The confusion arises from the fact that several distinct railway systems operate within Tokyo – the JR East network, the two subway networks, and various private lines – and different route maps show different systems. Avoid rush hours if possible; trains get overcrowded very easily. The defining rail line in Tokyo is the JR Yamanote Line (山手線 Yamanote-sen), which runs in a loop around central Tokyo; being inside the Yamanote loop is synonymous with being in the core of Tokyo. Almost all inter-regional JR lines and private lines start at a station on the Yamanote. JR's lines are color-coded, the Yamanote is light green n . The JR Chuo Line (orange n ', 中央線 Chūō-sen) and Chuo-Sobu Line (yellow n , 中央・総武線 Chūō-Sōbu-sen) run side-by-side, bisecting the Yamanote loop from Shinjuku on the west to Tokyo Station on the east. JR's other commuter lines, the Saikyo and Keihin-Tohoku, run off the rim of the Yamanote loop to the north and south. JR East has a good English information line, 050-2016-1603 or 03-3423-0111.

Tokyo has an extensive subway network, the oldest one in Asia dating back to 1927, with frequent trains, and these are primarily useful for getting around within the Yamanote loop. The Tokyo Metro runs nine lines: Ginza, Marunouchi, Hibiya, Tozai, Chiyoda, Yurakucho, Hanzomon, Namboku and Fukutoshin lines. Toei operates the Asakusa, Mita, Shinjuku, and Oedo lines. While the JR Yamanote Line is not a subway line, due to its importance as a major transportation artery in downtown Tokyo, it is usually featured on subway maps. In addition, there is a largely underground Rinkai Line, a private line which is operated by Tokyo Waterfront Area Rapid Transit (TWR), that passes through the island of Odaiba. The eight main private commuter railways radiate from the Yamanote loop out into the outlying wards and suburbs, and almost all connect through directly to subway

See

Tokyo has a vast array of sights, but the first items on the agenda of most visitors are the temples of Asakusa, the gardens of the Imperial Palace (in Chiyoda) and the Meiji Shrine (明治神宮 Meiji-jingū, in Harajuku). Tokyo has many commercial centres for shopping, eating and simply wandering around for experiencing the modern Japanese urban phenomenon. Each of these areas have unique characteristics, such as dazzling Shinjuku, youthful Shibuya and upmarket Ginza. These areas are bustling throughout the day, but they really come to life in the evenings. If you are looking for a viewing platform, Tokyo has plenty of options:

The Tokyo SkyTree is Tokyo's latest attraction in Sumida, not to mention it's also the third-tallest structure in the world at 634 m above the ground. However, its location away from downtown means the view is a distant jumble of buildings. The more familiar Tokyo Tower in Minato is still around, and it is not as expensive as the latter and newest rival, but neither is the view as good as some alternatives.

For a view that is light on your wallet, head to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Center (in effect, Tokyo's City Hall) in Shinjuku. Its twin towers have viewing platforms that are absolutely free, and offer a great view over Tokyo and beyond. Another equally light-on-your-wallet option is the Carrot Tower in Setagaya, just 3.2 km west of Shibuya Station. It has a restaurant on the 26th floor with views to the west and south (Yokohama) — the views can be enjoyed without having to eat at the restaurant. Tokyo City View in Roppongi has an observation deck with great views of Tokyo Bay and downtown Tokyo including the nearby Tokyo Tower — admission is a steep ¥1,800-2,300 though, but includes admission to the Mori Art Museum. The Rainbow Bridge linking Tokyo to Odaiba is another good option, if you don't mind traffic noise and smell. The bridge's pedestrian walkways (open until 20:00) are free, and the night-time view across Tokyo Bay is impressive. Odaiba Rainbow Bus starting at Shinagawa and Tamachi stations is a cheap way (\220) to enjoy the view. The Bunkyo Civic Center next to the Tokyo Dome in Bunkyo, dubbed by one newspaper as a "colossal Pez candy dispenser", has a free observation deck on the 25th floor offering an iconic view of Shinjuku against Mount Fuji on a clear day. The city is dotted with museums, large and small, which center on every possible interest from pens to antique clocks to traditional and modern arts. Many of the largest museums are clustered around Ueno. Though, at ¥500–1,000 or more, entrance fees can add

Do

See the tuna auction at the Toyosu Market and eat a sushi breakfast at the former Tsukiji Fish Market. Take a boat ride on the Sumida River from Asakusa. Lose yourself in the dazzling neon jungle outside major train stations in the evenings. Shibuya and east Shinjuku at night can make Times Square or Piccadilly Circus look rural in comparison — it has to be seen to be believed. Enjoy a soak in a local "sento" or public bath. Or one of the onsen theme parks such as LaQua at the Tokyo Dome (Bunkyo). Go to an amusement park such as Tokyo Disney Resort, which consists of Tokyo Disneyland and Tokyo DisneySea which are Asia's most visited (in Urayasu City Chiba) and second most visited theme parks respectively, or the more Japanese Sanrio Puroland (in Tama), home to more Hello Kitties than you can imagine. Join and bar hop or pub crawl along with events groups in Roppongi, Check out the hip and young crowd at Harajuku's Takeshita-Dori (Takeshita Street) or the more grown up Omotesando. In the spring, take a boatride in Kichijoji's lovely Inokashira Park, and afterwards visit the Ghibli Studios Museum (well known for their amazing movies, like Spirited Away, and Princess Mononoke), but you will need to buy tickets for these in advance at a Lawson convenience store. Take the Yurikamome elevated train across the bay bridge from Shimbashi station to the bayside Odaiba district, and startle at the scenery including a giant Unicorn Gundam robot statue. Watch a baseball game, namely the Yomiuri Giants at the Tokyo Dome, or the Tokyo Yakult Swallows at Jingu Stadium. Nearby Chiba hosts the Chiba Lotte Marines. Take a stroll through the Imperial Palace's East Gardens (open to the public daily at 09:00, except Fridays and Mondays). Have a picnic in a park during the cherry blossom (Sakura). Unfortunately Sakura only lasts for about 10-14 days in Spring. But be warned, parks are usually very crowded during this time. Join a local for a short lunch or dinner homestay with Nagomi Visit's home visit program or participate in their cooking classes. Raising a glass in this colourful nightlife at Shinjuku district. Joining the Harajuku's eccentric fashion tribes as they shop. Losing yourself in the vestiges of the old area Yanesen (Yanaka-Nezu-Sendagi). Akihabara — Venturing into the belly of pop culture beast.

Festivals Sanja Matsuri (三社祭), third weekend in May. Tokyo's largest festival, held near Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, this three-day extravaganza sees up to 2 million people turn out to watch the parade of portable shrines (mikoshi) with music, dancing and geisha perfo

Buy

Tokyo is one of the fashion and cosmetic centers in the Eastern world. Items to look for include electronics, funky fashions, antique furniture and kimono, as well as specialty items like Hello Kitty goods, anime and comics and their associated paraphernalia. Credit cards are widely accepted by major retailers, and there is a major government push to move towards cashless means of payment, including subsidies of 2-5% for doing so. "Cashless" here includes credit cards, transport cards like Suica/PASMO, Google/Apple Pay on your phone and a plethora of local apps. That said, cash remains king and many smaller shops and street stalls are still cash only. ATMs usually give out only ¥10,000 notes, but retailers are generally happy to make change. Most major bank ATMs now allow withdrawals from overseas banks with your usual ATM card. Japan Post ATMs are bilingual and will allow you to withdraw money at the day's exchange rate without charging you any special fees. The crime rate is very low, so don't be afraid of carrying around wads of cash as the Japanese do. The average Japanese citizen will carry a month's worth of expenses on them (around ¥40,000 give or take). See Buy under Japan for general caveats regarding electronics and media compatibility. There are numerous convenience stores throughout Tokyo (such as Seven-Eleven, Lawson, and Family-Mart), which are open around the clock and sell not only food and magazines, but also daily necessities such as underwear and toiletries. Supermarkets are usually open until 22:00, while drugstores and department stores usually close at 21:00.

Anime and manga Akihabara, Tokyo's Electric Town, is now also the unquestioned center of its otaku community, and the stores along Chuo-dori are packed to the rafters with anime (animation) and manga (comics). Another popular district for all things manga/anime is the Nakano ward and its Broadway Shopping arcade. Check out the Mandarake shop for loads of used and rare mangas. There has been an "otaku boom" in Akihabara. A lot of attention in particular was paid to the town thanks to the popular Japanese drama "Densha Otoko", a (true) love story about an otaku who saves a woman from a molester on a train and their subsequent courtship. Girls in maid costumes can be seen standing along the streets in Akihabara handing out advertisement fliers to passers by for maid cafes. If you like a specific anime or character, Tokyo has no shortages of official stores dedicated to a specific character or anime series.

Antiques Serious collectors should head for the Antique Mall in Ginz

Eat

Visitors from Western countries may be surprised to find that despite its justified reputation for being an expensive city, eating out in Tokyo can be surprisingly affordable. While fine dining establishments in Tokyo can be some of the most expensive in the world, at the budget end of the spectrum, it is fairly easy to find a basic rice or noodle joint serving up meals starting from ¥400; a price that is unmatched even by McDonald's or other fast food chains in the West. Tokyo has a large quantity and variety of food. Department stores have food halls, typically in the basement, with food which is comparable to top delicatessans in other world cities (though mostly Japanese and Japanized foreign food). Some basements of train stations have supermarkets with free taste testers. It's a great way to sample some of the strange dishes they have for free. Tokyo has a large number of restaurants, so see the main Japan guide for the types of food you will encounter and some popular chains. Menus are often posted outside, so you can check the prices. Some shops have the famous plastic food in their front windows. Don't hesitate to drag the waiting staff out to the front to point at what you want. Always carry cash. Many restaurants will not accept credit cards. Tokyo has tens of thousands of restaurants representing many cuisines in the world, though sometimes adjusted for local tastes, but it also offers a few unique local specialties. Within Japan, Tokyo cuisine is best known for 3 dishes: sushi, tempura, and unagi (freshwater eel). Nigirizushi (fish pressed onto rice), known around the world simply as "sushi," in fact originates from Tokyo, and within Japan is known as Edo-mae zushi (Edo-style sushi). Another is monjayaki (もんじゃ焼き), a gooey, cabbage-filled version of okonomiyaki that uses a very thin batter to achieve a sticky, caramelized consistency. It is originally from the Tsukishima area of Chuo and today there are many restaurants near Asakusa offering monjayaki.

Budget

Go to a convenience store (konbini), there is one on every second corner. Really, the options may surprise you. You can get rice balls (onigiri), bread-rolls, salads, prepared foods (like nikuman and oden), and drinks (both hot and cold) for ¥100-150, bentō lunch boxes for around ¥500 and sandwiches for ¥250-350. At most convenience stores, microwaves are available to heat up your food for no additional cost. Supermarkets (sūpā) are usually cheaper and offer a wider choice, but are more difficult to find. (Try Asakusa and the sidestreets of Ueno's Ameyoko market for local—not big cha

Drink & nightlife

The party never stops in Tokyo (at least in the karaoke bars), and you will find good little bars and restaurants everywhere. The most Japanese way to spend a night out as an individual or in a small group would be at Japanese-style watering holes called izakaya (居酒屋), which offer food and drink in a convivial, pub-like atmosphere (see Japan for details). Cheaper chain izakaya like Tsubohachi (つぼ八) and Shirokiya (白木屋) usually have picture menus, so ordering is simple, even if you don't know Japanese – but don't be surprised if some places have Japanese only touchscreen ordering systems. Another common option, which is often unbelievable to non-Japanese ears, is “all you can drink” (nomihōdai, 飲み放題), where you can drink all you want from a fixed menu for 90 minutes or 120 minutes. This is aimed at group parties, and is generally paired with a meal, often “all you can eat” (tabehōdai, 食べ放題), often in a private room. Receiving the items ordered will depend on how often your servers decide to bring out these items, which means you may be "throttled" to an extent, and may feel less than a true "all you can drink/eat" experience. This depends on the establishment. There are also a number of cheap bars where you can get a drink for ¥300 or even cheaper. Tokyo's most distinctive drink is Hoppy (hoppi, ホッピー), a virtually non-alcoholic beer-flavored drink (0.8% alcohol), which is drunk by mixing with shōchū (at 25%) at a 5:1 ratio, yielding an about 5% alcohol drink, essentially a substitute beer. This is available in older izakaya and has experienced a retro revival of late, though it is not particularly tasty. Another distinctively Tokyo drink is Denki Bran (電気ブラン, “electric brandy”), a herb-flavored brandy available (to drink in or in bottles) at the Kamiya bar (神谷バー) in Asakusa, right at the main intersection by the metro station. The major brands of beer are widely available, typically ¥500–800 per glass or bottle, but microbrews and foreign beer are only rarely available and often very expensive. You're generally better off getting bottles of microbrews at speciality stores. Popeye in Ryōgoku is a rare exception, with 70 beers on tap! Another popular choice is Beer Station at Ebisu, serving a variety of Yebisu beers and matching German food. For a splurge on a beverage or two, Western Shinjuku's Park Hyatt Tokyo houses the New York Bar on level 52. Providing stunning views day and night across Tokyo, it was also the setting for the movie Lost in Translation. Cocktails here start around ¥1400 – single malt whiskies are upwards of ¥2000. Amazing cocktails, ser

Sleep

There are thousands of hotels in the Tokyo area, ranging from cheap to very expensive. They are distributed throughout the city, with some of the high end and the low end almost everywhere. Many Western-style hotels, especially those affiliated with American hotel chains, have English-speaking staff. Long a great deal by world standards, Tokyo hotel prices have skyrocketed since Japan's post-COVID opening in 2022 due to the ongoing tourist boom plus inflation. Anything under ¥10,000 is cheap (and usually for a reason), cramped business hotels are ¥20,000 and up, and luxury accommodation can easily go over ¥100,000/night. For long-term accommodation, be prepared to splurge as Tokyo's real estate prices are among the highest in the world, and apartments in the area are typically very cramped. Many locals actually live in the neighbouring cities and commute to Tokyo for work every day due to the astronomical rents in Tokyo, and one-way commuting times can often last more than 2 hours.

Budget Much of Tokyo's budget accommodation can be found in the Taito area, especially Asakusa and Ueno. Beware that many have curfew times around 22:00 to 23:00, so double-check if you plan to party all night. Capsule hotels are generally the cheapest option. They may be reluctant to play host to foreigners as there are quite a few rules of behavior which may be difficult to explain; see the Japan article for the full scoop. Most capsule hotels are men-only. Akihabara Capsule Inn is among the very few to have women-only floors. See Japan#Last resorts for a run-down of emergency options like all night internet cafes (manga kissa), karaoke boxes, camping in parks, etc.

Mid-range There is a wide range of choices in hotels while at Tokyo, most of the hotels are rated 3 stars or more. In Tokyo, as in most Japanese cities, the most common mid-range option is a business hotel. The rooms are usually tiny, but they are near stations and rates start from around ¥15000. Staff may speak minimal English, but it's not too hard to figure out. These are the best options for solo travelers. Affordable chains found throughout Tokyo include Tokyu Stay, which offers free internet access and breakfast, Toyoko Inn, Chisun and Sunroute. Tokyo has some self-proclaimed ryokan (Japanese inns) that cater largely to foreign tourists, mostly concentrated around Ueno and Asakusa. While not as opulent as the real thing, they offer a sample of Japanese home life at affordable rates. Japan's infamous love hotels can be a reasonable (and interesting) option in Tokyo. Shibuya's Dogenzaka ("Love Hotel Hil

Go next

From Tokyo, the entire surrounding Kanto region is your oyster. Particularly popular destinations nearby include:

Hakone — for hot springs and views of Mount Fuji, Ashinoko Lake. Kawagoe — Old historical town also called "Little Edo". Its main street and castle can take you back in time. 60 min train ride from Tokyo station. Kamakura — home to dozens of small temples and one Big Buddha, once the seat of the Kamakura shogunate. Nikko — grandiose shrine and burial site of Shogun Tokugawa Iemitsu Odawara — houses the only Japanese castle in greater Tokyo area Yugawara, Manazuru — for hot springs and coastal resort, eating sashimi and mikan, views of Manazuru Peninsula, some festivals (Matsuri). Tokyo Disney Resort — with Tokyo Disneyland (just like the ones everywhere else) and Tokyo Disney Sea (an only-in-Japan theme park which includes some unique rides and some imported rides from Disney parks outside of Japan) Yokohama — Japan's second-largest city and a suburb of Tokyo The Tokyo area also has some less-famous destinations that are easy day trips from central Tokyo:

Ashikaga — historical hometown of a famous shogun clan, first school in Japan, top flower park in Japan, and beautiful nature Kiryu — famous historical silk town with museums and bountiful nature for hiking and cycling lovers looking to get a taste of small town Japan Hachioji — a refreshing climb up Mt. Takao through a forest to a shrine and beer garden Kawasaki — home to the Nihon Minka-En park with 24 ancient farmhouses (more interesting than it sounds), not to mention the annual Festival of the Iron Penis (Kanamara Matsuri) Kinugawa — Onsen town in Nikko, home to Edo Wonderland Nikko Edomura, a theme park set in the Edo period with shows, ninja, samurai, geisha, et al., in a beautiful mountain setting Fujino — a small town popular with locals and foreigners alike who are interested in the arts and enjoy beautiful scenery And don't forget the islands to the south of Tokyo:

Izu Islands — easily accessible seaside and hot spring getaways Ogasawara Islands — 1,000 km (620 mi) away from big-city bustle, for whale watching, diving and those who want to get away from it all