Tétouan
Morocco · Africa
About Tétouan
Tétouan (Arabic: تطوان, Tifinagh: ⵜⵉⵟⵟⴰⵡⵉⵏ) is a city in northern Morocco. It lies along the Martil Valley and is one of the two major ports of Morocco on the Mediterranean Sea, a few miles south of the Strait of Gibraltar, and about 60 kilometres (37 mi) E.S.E. of Tangier. The city has an estimated population of 469,465 inhabitants as of 2024. It is part of the administrative division Tanger-Tetouan-Al Hoceima.
The city has witnessed many development cycles spanning over more than 2,000 years. The first settlements, discovered a few miles outside of the modern city limits, belonged to the ancient Mauretanians and date back to the 3rd century BC. A century later, Phoenicians traded there and after them the site—known now as the ancient town of Tamuda—became a Roman colony under Emperor Augustus.
In the late 13th century, the Marinids started by building a casbah and mosque in what is now the old city. Soon after in 1305, the scale of the settlement was expanded by sultan Abu Thabit Amir, who fortified the place. Around the early 15th century, the Castilians destroyed the settlement in retaliation for piracy.
The modern history of the city starts around the late 15th century. It was re-built and fortified by Ali al-Mandri, who emigrated from the Nasrid city of Granada in the decade before it fell into the hands of the Catholic Monarchs Ferdinand II of Aragon and Isabella I of Castile as the War of Granada was completed in 1492. Countless thousands of Muslims (Moriscos) and Jews (Marranos) from Andalusia settled in northern Morocco, and on the ruins of the city of Tétouan. The city went through a prosperous period of reconstruction and growth in various fields, becoming a major center for the reception of Andalusian civilization. Tétouan is often linked to Granada, and it is nicknamed "Granada's Daughter;" some families still keep keys belonging to their old homes in Granada. It is also nicknamed "Pequeña Jerusalén" (Little Jerusalem) by Sephardic Jews. Today, the vast majority of Tétouan's population are Muslims. Although their presence has sharply declined in recent decades, Christian and Jewish communities also exist.
In 1913, Tétouan became the capital of the Spanish protectorate of Morocco, which was governed by the Khalifa (Moroccan prince serving as Viceroy for the Sultan), and the Spanish "Alto Comisario" accredited to him. The city remained the protectorate's capital until 1956, when Morocco regained its full independence.
Tétouan is a renowned multicultural center. Since 1997, the medina of Tétouan is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since 2017, it has also been part of the UNESCO Creative Cities Network in the area of Crafts and Folk Art.
Tétouan travel guide
Understand
The city is an important transportation hub in the north. Many travelers only see the bus station en route from Ceuta or Tangier to Chefchaouen, but it is well worth a longer visit.
Climate Tétouan enjoys a typical Mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers and mild winters. The average summer temperature is 35°C, while the average winter temperature is a wholly comfortable 22°C. The city boasts an amazing amount of sunshine.
Getting there
By plane 1 Sania Ramel Airport (TTU IATA) (6 km NW from Gare routière de Tétouan). A small airport built by the Spanish colonial administration to serve Ceuta. Mainly Ryanair and Moroccan airlines serve the airport offering domestic and international flights. Not much to do inside: there is only one small coffee shop and intermittently working WiFi. (updated Dec 2022) Getting there/away: the only viable option is taxi. The Grand taxi stand is in front of the airport, they are willing to go anywhere in Morocco, prices are rather elevated, e.g. 10-min trip to Tetouan bus station costs 100 dirham. To cut down the costs walk another 200 m further off the airport to the busy road nearby, where petit taxis will charge only 20-25 dirham (as of Dec 2022) using taximeter for the ride to the bus station or city center. There are more international connections to the airports of Tangier, Rabat, Casablanca and also Fez. From Rabat and Casablanca you can go via Tangier with high-speed train. From Tangier and Fez there are intercity buses to Tétouan.
By bus Tétouan is on the Tangier - Fes/Meknes road thus it has the best connection with these cities. Some of those buses make a stopover in Chefchaouen. Besides long-distance buses are available from other major Moroccan cities but are less frequent. Supratours offers combined tickets comprising a bus to Tangier's train station followed by a train to anywhere else in Morocco. There are local city buses going to nearby destinations like the beach towns of Fnideq (70 min), Martil (25 min), M'Diq (1 hour); the easiest place to board them is perhaps at the main road - Ave Hassan II (CTM bus station is located on this avenue). When heading to Ceuta, you can take bus number 35 from just outside the CTM terminal, takes about an hour and drops you in Fnideq. You can walk from there to the border (~30 min). After the border there are buses to the city center (€0.85).
2 Gare routière. Serves all bus companies but CTM ones. The Grand Taxi station is next to it. The station has ticket offices, toilets, ATM and a large cafe with a terrace. (updated Jan 2023) 3 CTM bus station. It has big waiting area, toilets, but no cafe. (updated Jan 2023)
Getting around
The CTM bus station and the non-CTM bus station are in the center, though the walk from the CTM station to the center is a hike up a rather steep hill. The city center is quite small and most tourist attractions and hotels are there, so there really is no need to use petite taxis. But if you choose to stay at one of the hotels on the way to Martil (Champs or Dreams) petite taxis and grand taxis are always available. Petite taxis are very cheap, though the fare increases if you have luggage. Though there is a decent-sized public bus system, the buses are notorious for running late and being filthy. To get to nearby beaches, like Martil, Cabo Negro, Rincon, Marina Smir, and Kabila, grand taxis are easily found at a bottom of Rue Moulay Abbas (the road running along the park, beautiful views of the Rif Mountains). The fare for a single passenger to Martil is 5 dirham, but if you want a little more room, you should purchase two seats. For less popular destinations, like Marina Smir, or for a more direct route to beaches like Cabo Negro and Kabila which require two different grand taxi rides; you can bargain with the driver to purchase the whole taxi. This is often more expensive, but well worth it considering the time saved and the increased comfort. Drivers are often very happy to arrange to pick you up after their day at the beach, saving you time and hassle. Local buses are an adventure but obvioiusly is cheaper than a taxi.
See
Medina Unlike any other Moroccan Medina, Tétouan's 1 Medina (UNESCO World Heritage Site) offers a unique perspective on the multicultural history of northern Morocco and, because of its relatively small size, it offers visitors a chance to explore without getting hopelessly lost. There are three distinct sections of the Medina, the Andalusian, the Jewish, and the Berber sections, though the untrained eye might have trouble distinguishing between the three. Be sure to hire a guide and you'll enjoy the medina that much more. There were seven historic gates (bab in Arabic) of Tetouan:
2 Bab El Okla, 68, Rue Skala, ☏ +212 5 39 99 31 21. W-M 10:00-18:00. Houses Ethnographic Museum (also known as Bab El Okla Museum). A nice, small museum, with dresses, artefacts, furniture, guns, history of Tétouan. The guides show you around in exchange for a tip. 20 dirham. (updated Jan 2023) Bab Sebta. (updated Jan 2023) 3 Bab Jiaf. (updated Jan 2023) 4 Bab Mkaber. (updated Jan 2023) 5 Bab Saida. (updated Jan 2023) 6 Museum of religious heritage (Musée du patrimoine religieux). It's on the premises of the former Mosque of Laouk. It displays Muslim religious artefacts. (updated Feb 2020) 7 Dar El Oddi Museum, 5, Derb Oddi, ☏ +212 539 72 16 71. Tu-Su 10:00 – 18:30. El Oddi family built their house in 1920-th, which later fell into a state of complete disrepair and has been restored in 2018. It now houses permanent exhibition "Visions of Tetouan" displaying a collection of pictures of Tetouan's places, landscapes and urban spaces. 25 dirham. (updated Jan 2023) 8 Tannery (small door on the left hand site of the Bab Mkabar gate). This is the first tannery constructed in Tetouan and it dates back to the end of 15th - beginning of 16th centuries. It's much smaller and less colourful than the ones in Fes, but still it showcases the whole process of leather processing. (updated Jan 2023) 9 Royal Palace, Place El Mechouar. Palace is used by King Mohammed VI during his summer visits to Tetoan. It was built in 1988 in what was once Feddan Park. It is off-limits to the public' as is the most part of adjacent Place El Mechouar square.. (updated Jan 2023) 10 Kasbah. A dilapidated fortified castle on top of the hill overlooking the city with good views of the mountains. You can only circle around it as it's under construction. (updated Jan 2023)
Modern part of the city 11 Mohammed V Ave. A pedestrian-only road in the center. Filled with people in the evenings, after the day's heat has passed. Mohammed V is filled with dozens of cafes, teleboutiques, restaurants, tourist shops, a
Do
Tétouan is surrounded by two mountains: 1 Mount Dersa and 2 Mount Ghorghiz which offer splendid hiking opportunities.
Buy
You will find some shops in the pedestrian area and around the city center. If you want to experience the local market feeling, go to the 1 central market square or the 2 central market building.
3 Carrefour, Avenue 9 Avril. Big supermarket, nothing fancy except for it being the only shop selling alcohol in a radius of 100 km. (updated Jan 2023)
Eat
Budget 1 Restinga Restaurant, 21 Av. Mohamed V. (updated Sep 2022) 2 Dallas, 11 Rue Youssef Ben Tachfine. Small teashop/patisserie with lots of sweets and baked goods on offer. Small, somewhat dark seating area in the back, filled with both women and men. Brownies 5 dirham, croissants 2 dirham, pot of mint tea 8 dirham. (updated Sep 2022) 3 Restaurant La Union, appt. 8, 2 Av. Mohamed Ben Larbi Torres. (updated Sep 2022) 4 Cafeteria Pizzeria Lisboa, n°1, Av. Hassan II, Résidence SOLYMAR - Bloc A. (updated Sep 2022)
Mid-range 5 El reducto, Rue Zaouia. (updated Sep 2022) 6 Café Pizzeria Patesserie Jenin, Avenue El Ouahda. (updated Sep 2022) 7 Diamond Tetouan, 28 Av. Hassan II. Restaurant, café, pâtisserie. (updated Sep 2022)
Splurge
Drink & nightlife
Za3Za3 is one of the most locally famous juices. It's a kind of milk-shake with avocado, banana, apple, some almonds, and some other ingredients.
Sleep
Budget 1 Hotel Panorama Vista, Avenue Moulay Abbas, ☏ +212 5399-64968. Breakfast included 300 dirham, breakfast included. (updated Jan 2023) 2 Pension Iberia, Place Moulay El Mehdi, ☏ +212 5399-63679. Relatively cheap, clean rooms, sink in the room, shared toilet, shower 10 dirham (warm). From 100 dirham. (updated Sep 2016) 3 Riad Dalia, Place El Ouessaa 25 (in the Medina), ☏ +212 539964318, [email protected]. Check-in: after 13:00, check-out: before 12:00. Dates from the 19th-century and used to be the house of the Dutch consul during the days of the Spanish protectorate. The rooms range from cheap singles to expensive palatial suites, featuring antique furniture, elegant fabrics and a traditional decor. Wi-Fi available. Beautiful terrace view. Every morning, a continental breakfast is served on site. The restaurant offers traditional dishes and guests can relax in the lounge. From 250 dirham. (updated Jan 2023)
Mid-range 4 Blanco Riad, 25, Rue Zawiya Kadiria, ☏ +212 539704202. Beautiful hotel in a restored riad with lovely touches, such as stained glass windows on room doors. Friendly staff, nice garden area with a resident turtle, and good restaurant. Free breakfast and Wi-Fi. Small double rooms 600 dirham, larger ones 900-1600 dirham. (updated Jan 2023) 5 Hotel El Reducto, 38, Essaid Zanqat Zawya Kadiriya, ☏ +212 539968120. From 600 dirham. (updated Jan 2023)
Go next
Chefchaouen – A historic city also dubbed the blue city. Oued Laou – A coastal town on the way to Chefchaouen. Ceuta – Spanish semi-exclave. Tangier – Famous port city with ferry connections to Spain. Oujda – In the very east of Morocco, near the Algerian border.
Overview adapted from Wikipedia, travel guide fromWikivoyage (CC BY-SA)。Photography via Wikimedia Commons.