Tehran

Understand

The city can be roughly divided into two parts - north and south. The northern districts of Tehran are more prosperous, modern, cosmopolitan and expensive while southern parts are less attractive but cheaper. At the time of the Zand dynasty, it was a little town that was significant from a strategic point of view. The first of the Qajar kings, Agha Mohammed Khan, named Tehran as the country's capital in 1778, and most of its growth started during the reign of a subsequent Qajar monarch, Fath-Ali Shah. The castle that Agha Mohammed Khan had built was to contain the new majestic buildings. At the same time, the city's population doubled. Due to the increasing significance of the city, gates, squares and mosques were built and it was at the time of Nassereddin Shah that the city's master sketch was prepared and modern streets were constructed. Later, huge central squares like Toopkhaneh square (now Imam Khomeini) and quite a few military buildings were built. Even though the Qajar dynasty was in a period of decline, Tehran soon took the shape of a modern city. The structure of large government buildings, new streets, recreation centres, urban service organizations, and academic and methodical centres was started, even as most of the old gates and buildings were destroyed and the city's old architectural fabric replaced by a contemporary one. Tehran has also earned itself an unenviable reputation as a smog-filled, traffic-clogged and featureless sprawl of concrete bursting at the seams with 14 million residents. But you can also find an endless number of nice and cosy places in and around the city - if you know where to look. Tehran is a city of more than 800 parks, all well-kept. The city is nearly a mile high above sea level and as a result is cooler than other cities in the Middle East. Still, summer temperatures are very hot, averaging 33°C (91°F) in July and frequently exceeding 38°C (100°F). The air tends to be very dry. A combination of factors make Tehran a pleasant place to visit: the dry climate which is cool in the evenings, the proximity of the mountains, the parks and gardens where flowers blossom all through the year, the alleys of trees in the avenues or even smaller streets, and even the water that runs down from the upper city along deep and wide gutters which look like small rivers during spring. The Alborz range on the north of Tehran, which hosts the highest peak in Iran, provides fantastic conditions for ski lovers in the winter. In winter, the mountain hotels and ski clubs at Shemshak, and Dizine are very busy. There is some world-class

Getting there

For information on Iranian visas please refer the Iran#visas page.

By plane 1 Imam Khomeini International Airport (IKA IATA) (55 km southwest of the city center, Robat Karim railway station (ایستگاه راه آهن رباط کریم) around 3 km northwest near Line 1 'Kahrizak' ~ 20 km NE). The only airport in Tehran to which international passenger flights operate. (updated Nov 2016) Getting there and away:

By metro – The easiest way to reach city center. Line number 8 connects Airport Terminal A with Metro Line 1 (red line) (75,000 rials, that can be used for the full network, Mar 2019). Runs irregularly: 06:50, 08:10, 09:30, 10:50, 12:10, 13:30, 14:50, 16:10, 17:30, 18:50, 20:10. For Metro Line 1 (red) there is a metro from IKA to Tehran during daytime—the trains run hourly (Sep 2017). By bus – To and from the city (e.g. Haram Metro station) every 30-60 min 07:00-23:00. They leave right in front of the main exit and cost 20,000-30,000 rial. There are unconfirmed reports of a shuttle bus operating between IKIA and Mehrabad Airport every 4–5 hours. By taxi – They cost a fixed rate of 800,000 rials (or US$19 or €17 as of Nov 2025), ask at the taxi counter. The drive to/from the city center takes 45 minutes without traffic, but can take upwards of 90 minutes with traffic. There is a booth organizing taxis right outside the arrivals hall. You can also bargain with taxis dropping off passengers at the arrivals hall because otherwise they would have to go back to Tehran empty. Taxis to the nearest metro station (Haram-e-Motahhar) cost 500,000 rials. Shuttle taxis and green minibuses operate between the airport and Shahed Station on the red line of the metro. This can be a convenient option going to the airport from town, but finding the shuttle taxis at the airport will be difficult as many don't stop there. At 7,000 rials for a metro ticket and 40,000 rials for a shuttle taxi (they will try to rip you off or charge for bringing in luggage even if there is space, so make sure to only occupy one seat if you don't want to pay extra), it is probably the cheapest option from town that doesn't require waiting a long time for the bus (shuttle taxis leave when full). At Shahed station, get out to the parking area (there is only one exit and you can't miss it) and on the very left you will see green minibuses. It takes about 30-40 min from there to the airport. Last one departs around 21:30. Despite the warnings in some travel guides, there is no exit fee for foreign travellers, neither in Mehrabad nor in Imam Khomeini Airport. The exit fee applies to foreign travellers only w

Getting around

Getting around traffic-clogged, sprawling Tehran is a true test of patience. While taxis are your best bet, they are pricier here than the rest of the country. A large local bus network will also take you almost anywhere you need to go, as long you can make sense of the routes and Persian line numbers. The true star of Tehran's transport system, however, is the metro.

By bus Tehran has an inexpensive but confusing bus network. Some require prepaid contactless card (min 5,000 rials), which can be bought from booths beside the bus stops and metro stations used when you get off the bus, and some should be paid by cash (ranging from 1,000-4,000 rials). The buses are partitioned in two sections, men-only (the front section) and women-only (the back section). In the BRT lines, the women-only section is at the front. Also, the fee is paid on the station, using the prepaid contactless card (shared with Metro), or paying to the guard. Since bus numbers, route descriptions and other information are in Persian, your best bet is to look confused at a bus terminal; a local will surely stop to help. Each bus line has a certain and almost invariable path but only people know exactly which bus stations exist for a certain road. You shouldn't expect a map or guides even in Persian showing the bus network or bus stations. Even asking the bus driver wouldn't be a great help for you to find your way either. If you get in a bus and looking for a certain station to alight, ask one to help you - you will find many people wish to help you to find your way, most of the time.

Bus Rapid Transit (BRT) The BRT buses are colored in red. BRTs has special lines and travels very quickly from Azadi square (west of Tehran) directly to the East (Terminal-e-Shargh). Railway square (south of Tehran) directly to the north (Tajrish square). Azadi square to free university (northwest). Azadi Square to South Terminal and parkway bridge (north of Tehran) to jomhuri square. Costs 1,000-3,000 rials. In high-traffic hours (07:00-09:00 & 16:00-20:00), it is the best way to traveling. BRT has many stations near main streets. Although you may not find an empty seat on the bus because of the crowds, people give their place to you if they know you are a tourist. The women's and men's seats and queues are separate.

By metro

Tehran's metro system has seven lines that will whisk you quickly from one end of the city to the other without having to deal with the noise, pollution and chaos of Tehrani traffic. However, many residents have decided to leave their cars and commute by metro, so expect h

See

Monuments 1 The Azadi Tower (Persian: برج آزادی, Borj-e Āzādi), Kuy-e-Mehr Abad (Azadi Square Subway Station). The longstanding symbol of Tehran was constructed to commemorate the 2,500th anniversary of the Persian empire, combines elements of Sassanid and Islamic architecture. The entrance of the tower is directly underneath the main vault and leads into the Azadi Museum on the basement floor. Do not sit on the grass! Officers chase away people. (updated Nov 2016) 2 Mausoleum of Ayatollah Khomeini (The Tomb of Imam Khomeini), near to Behesht-e Zahra, Cemetery Highway (بزرگراه بهشت زهرا) (Metro: Haram-e-Motahar NW 300m,). The gigantic mausoleum is on the southern edge of the city. The sheer size of the shrine/shopping centre is enough to make the trip worth it. Women can borrow chadors at entrance. Bags have to be left for free at one of the compound doors. Entrance is free. (updated Mar 2019) 3NOT EXISTING IMAGE Milad Tower (برج میلاد) (from Metro Tarasht 3.5 km NE or from Metro Hemmat 4 km W), ☏ +98 21 8436 1000. 435-m-high Milad tower is the fourth-tallest tower in the world and 12th-tallest freestanding structure in the world, and it is visible from almost everywhere in Tehran. Tickets to enter the observation lounge must be reserved well in advance. There are several restaurants in and around the tower, and a mediocre art gallery. 2 viewing decks exist: indoor sky dome at 305 m - 350,000 rials, outdoor viewing deck at 250 m - 120,000 rials. (updated Feb 2017)

Historic sites 4 Golestan Palace (Persian: کاخ گلستان pronounced 'Kakheh Golestān', Rose Garden Palace, Gulistan Palace), Khordad Sq. 15, Pamenar (پامنار) (M: Panzdah-e-Khordad 300m), ☏ +98 21 3311 3335, fax: +98 21 311 8338. 09:00 - 18:00, museums close at 17:00. The oldest of the historic monuments in Tehran. The complex consists of 17 palaces, museums, and Halls. The Golestan (Rose Garden) citadel is one of mainly visited places in Tehran, which was the Qajars' royal residence, and its garden is an oasis of coolness and peace in the heart of the city. The major building, architecturally unpretentious, houses a museum with objects from the Qajar period in the self-important style of last century. In the Golestan garden, a one-story pavilion to the right and a short distance from the entrance, shelters one of the best organized museums in Tehran. It encloses about thirty showcases presenting almost everything related to Iran, which makes up the critical originality of Iranian life in a variety of provinces of the country. Golestan Palace was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2013

Do

Parks and recreation

1 Ab-o-Atesh Park and the Tabiat Bridge (پارک آب و آتش و پل طبیعت) (the closest metro station is Shahid Haghani (line 1); the park is also a 15-minute walk away from Vanak Sq). Opened in 2009, the Ab-o-Atesh (lit. "Water and Fire") Park is one of Tehran's newest and most impressive. The highlight of the park is the Pol-e Tabiat or Nature Bridge, which offers spectacular views of north Tehran and the Alborz mountain range. Populated by the well-to-do urban middle classes of Tehran, this friendly park offers a plethora of cafes and restaurants, most of which can be found along the Rah-e Joobi or Wooden Road Food Court (رستوران‌های راه چوبی) in the southern section of the park (nearly all of the restaurants there are open only after 20:00 as it is customary for Iranians to eat dinner late in the evening). The park and its surroundings also offer other services, such as a skate park. (updated Jun 2016) 2 Chitgar Lake (دریاچه چیتگر). Also known as the Lake of Martyrs of the Persian Gulf, is an artificial and recreational lake in the north of Chitgar Park. The total area of this complex is about 250 hectares; 130 hectares across the lake, and the rest of it goes for the coastal zone and resorts. The lake has good weather and it's host to migratory birds in some seasons. 3 Jamshidieh Park, Niavaran district, Omidvar (from M: Tajrish 3 km NE or from Aghdasiyeh Subway Station 2.5 km NW). It is one of the most picturesque and beautiful parks in Tehran. It is at the base of the Kolakchal Mountain. Mellat Park in Valiasr street is one of the largest recreation areas in the Middle-East. Niavaran Park is one of Tehran's famous and most pleasant public city parks. It is in the Niavaran district and is immediately south of the Niavaran Palace Complex. Additionally there are some large parks called "park-e-jangali" (literally "forest park") around (and some inside) the city which are very popular among the locals for picnic. The most famous one is Chitgar in the west of the city and is accessible via Karaj road. 4 Paradise Garden, Baq-e Ferdous Park? (باغ فردو س), Delbar (From Metro 'Tajrish' West 1.1 km).

Tochal Mountain Tochal Mountain has a ski resort and is a great place to get some scenic views over Tehran and enjoy a little peace and quiet in contrast to the bustling city. From the Tochal peak, one has a spectacular view of the Alborz range, including the 5,671-m (18,606 ft) high Mt. Damavand, a dormant volcano.

5 Tochal Complex (تله‌کابین توچال), end of Velenjak St, Zafaraniyeh (metro line 1 to Tajrish station, then minibus (15,000

Buy

Money exchange For information on Iranian currency see Iran#Buy. You can exchange your currency in most banks after filling out between two and five forms, but the exchange rate in exchange offices (sarraafis) is always better than what is offered by banks. It is much advisable to go to one of these 1 money exchange offices at Ferdosi Ave (close to Jewels Museum). Such offices can also be found in other parts of the city, but are far more scattered. Ask them to show you a copy of their license, issued by the Central Bank of the country and/or the local guild. A list of licensed sarraafis of the whole country, in Persian (Farsi), can be found here. This list includes phone numbers and addresses as well as license numbers and dates. Also, most exchange offices in Tehran don't exchange before 09:00, when the daily rate gets fixed. Do not exchange your money with one of the many individuals offering to exchange along Ferdosi St. It is much riskier and illegal. They might be criminals offering counterfeit money. As for March 2019, exchange offices in Tehran were not exchanging, and they announced lower rate than at the airport. The best rate was (surprisingly) at the airport, and higher than stated at XE Currency Exchange. Accommodation can be paid in euros, so you do not need to exchange all the money for the trip. In March 2019, they were changing 151,000-153,000 rials for €1; 170,000-173,000 rials for £1; 139,000 rials for US$1 (dollar rate as of 26 Apr 2019) - at the airport, first floor (departures).

Bazaars and shopping malls

Visit the Bazaar, very appropriate for shopping. It ranges from cheap things to very expensive luxury things. You can find almost anything in the Bazaar, from clothing to carpets, kitchen accessories, decorations, jewellery.... There are also numerous shopping malls in the city. Valiasr Street and Tajrish Square (also includes a traditional bazaar) are two of the many locations full of shopping centres in Tehran.

2 Grand Bazaar of Tehran (بازار), Panzdah-e-Khordad St (0.5 km SE from metro Panzdah-e-khordad. Ask for Zaid Mosque (امامزاده زید) at Northern limit of the Bazaar). Wander around Tehran's massive bazaar. The main entrance on 15 Khordad Ave leads to a labyrinth of stalls and shops that were once the engine room of Iran's commodity markets and one of Imam Khomeini's greatest sources of conservative, pro-Revolution support. As usual, shops are clustered according to the products they sell. If you're planning on heading out into remote areas, the bazaar is an ideal and cheap place to stock up on almost anything you need

Eat

Prices quoted on the menu may exclude an 8% tax, a 10-15% service charge, and a 10% tip. Be prepared to add as much as 1/3 to the prices quoted on the menu.

Budget You'll find cheap & good enough abgoosht stew in any of the places they call ghahvekhuneh (قهوه‌خانه) which you can find in any non-strictly-residential area. Just ask for a ghahvekhuneh or get this قهوه‌خانه printed and show it. Nice traditional working class ambience as a rule. You can find several food courts around Tehran with a variety of cuisines from Thailand, India, Italy, China and Turkey.

Delsin Sandwiches, Jordan Blvd, in Golfam St. Kebab and sandwich joints are found everywhere. This one has interesting salad, and humus (Lebanese mezeh). They have roast beef, chicken, turkey sandwiches that comes with fresh vegetables, like mint and basil. andwiches priced between US$2-4. Dizi Sara, Jordan Blvd. A hangout of the rich and famous. Abgosht (meat stew) 400,000 rials. (updated Nov 2016) Falafel Stalls, 15 Khordad Ave (across the road from the bazaar). 10,000-25,000 rials. Food Court at Jaam-e-Jam Mini Mall, Corner of Vali Asr Ave & Taheri Street. A sight to see - not for the food. This is the closest thing in Iran to a pick up bar. Teenagers push the limits on acceptable clothing. Has western import products in several stores underneath. There is also a decent bakery here with western type bread. Iranian Traditional Restaurant, 28 Keshavarz Blvd (near Agha Bozorg Mosque, underground, down a staircase east of the Canon/Konica shop). Young Iranians flirting, smoking flavored water pipe, and eating. The dizi is recommended. Dizi: 55,000 rials. Super Star Fried Chicken (SFC). The Iranian version of KFC. Serves very good chicken burgers. 1 Traditional Restaurant Karimkhan, Karim Khan Bridge/Blvd. A cozy place serving fantastic Dizi among other traditional dishes. Cute little canaries are flying around. Dizi: 170,000 rials. (updated Nov 2016) 2 Restaurant Moslem, Bazar, District 12 (North West corner of Sabzeh Meydan Square), ☏ +98 21 5560 2275. Huge (very huge!) portions that are hard to finish. That is why most of the locals pack about half the portion for take-away (free). The canteen-like place is super crowded at lunchtime and the people form a long queue. Get an ordering number at the entrance first. Upstairs you can watch the bustling square while enjoying your meal. (updated Nov 2016) Sharafol-eslam is a restaurant in the Bazaar. It is famous for its kebabs and chicken. It gets really crowded though, which requires some patience.

Mid-range Barbod Restaurant, 87 Seo

Drink & nightlife

For information on popular drinks in Iran, see Iran#Drink. Alcoholic beverages are illegal in Iran, other than some allowances for ritual use by Jews and Christians.

Coffee shops Coffee shops are a great place for people watching as well as drinking.

There is a string of coffee shops on the south side of Jomhuriyeh Eslami Ave, a couple of hundred metres west of Ferdosi St. You can stock up on coffee beans and related paraphernalia, or even sample a cup for 4,000 rials. Cafe Naderi - serves coffee, tea and pastries to a mix of Tehran's intelligentsia and bohemian elite. It's a great place to sit and watch hip young guys eyeing gossiping girls while old men reminisce about the "good ol' days" under the Shah. Gramophone Cafe, Charrahe Vali-e Asr (Vali-e Asr St. - In front of Theatre building). If you want talk to your friends, you can go to Gramophone coffee shop, listen to nice music, and have a nice coffee. Some of people who work there can speak English. Ask for Beiruz. Crystal Coffeeshop (at the top of the Borj-e Sefid Hotel) along Pasdaran Ave, Definitely worth a visit if in the area for the relaxing drink and view.

Tea houses Azari Traditional Tea House - Just north of the train station. A bit far from the center but worth the trek. The atmosphere here is unique, from the moment you enter from the beaded doorway. This is a popular hangout for people of all ages. Features an eclectic collection of water pipes and tea pots. Chai bar (Anjoman Khoshnevisan), 145 North Salimi Blvd (Farmanieh), ☏ +98 21 22210310. In a beautiful historic garden in Tehran. It is an ideal place to spend late afternoons/evenings. It offers great selection of teas and coffees as well as sandwiches. Gandhi Shopping centre. For trendy cafes filled with liberal Iranians. You will find about ten coffeeshops as well as a few very good restaurants, including Monsoon.

Juice bars In many places you can find fresh sickly-sweet carrot juice - as well as some other juices - for just 30,000 rials a cup. By most main bazaar in Tehran you can get a drink of blended honeydew melon with ice and sugar. It's delicious and extremely refreshing on a hot day. In the summer, you can try Khakshir a locally made amazing drink which is refreshing.

Sleep

The old-styled Mosaferkhanehs and budget hotels are often low quality and overpriced. The reason is that Iran has had very limited exposure to the outside world. In many low budget places there are no European toilets or even no toilet paper and staff can be rather unfriendly with no English-speaking ability. However, a couple of modern hostels have opened in Tehran.

Budget 1 Tehran Heritage Hostel, No. 22, Kamal-ol-Molk, Baharestan Square (Walk 100 meters to the west in Kamal-ol-Molk Street from Baharestan Square Metro Station.), ☏ +98 2133988739. 24 hr. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. The newly renovated Tehran Heritage Hostel sitting in a 100-year-old-building opened in January 2018. The location is very central and Baharestan metro station is just around the corner. Dormitories have beautifully designed bunk beds with private curtains, individual lockers, sockets and light on each bed and private rooms are en-suite, beautifully decorated with stunning bed linen. Useful and friendly staff, they can book your bus or train tickets for you. Dorms from €5; yurts from €15; private rooms from €25, accepts payment in euros. Payment with card for a fee. (updated Mar 2019) Firouzeh Hotel, Dolat Abadi Alley, Amir Kabir St, ☏ +98 21 33113508, +98 91 24361974 (Cell), [email protected]. Check-out: 14:00. Good hotel with very friendly receptionist, Mr Mousavi, is a good source for information, especially regarding embassies and visas. Great place for breakfast, tea and meeting other travellers. Internet and wifi available. Single: US$28 (870 000 rials, Sep 2016); double: US$30. (updated Sep 2016) Hotel Hafez, Bank Alley, off Ferdowsi Street, ☏ +98 21 66709093, [email protected]. Location quite good, 5-min walking to National Jewelry Treasure and Turkish Consulate, with nearby currency exchange places. The duty manager (an old gentlemen) is very nice and speaks good English. Rooms are good and clean, bathroom water is hot. Can help you book train/bus/flight tickets, car/van or even visa renewal. Breakfast included. Free Wi-Fi, but signal is not good in the room. Double: US$74. 2 See You in Iran Hostel in Tehran, No. 2, Vahdati-Manesh (3rd) Dead End, South Kheradmand St., KarimKhan Ave, ☏ +98 21 88832266, [email protected]. Accommodation for cultural exchange. It features eight private rooms, two dorm rooms, an event-based café, a spacious outdoor garden and is run by a multilingual team. (updated Feb 2019) Mashhad Hostel, #388 Amir Kabir Street, Opposite Seraj Mosque, ☏ +98 21 33113062, [email protected]. One of the cheapest accommodation

Go next

If the hustle and bustle of Tehran becomes too much, it's possible to go to the Caspian Sea for a day or two. The holiday town of Ramsar is about five hours away, and the drive across the Alborz Mountains is spectacular. A taxi round-trip for a day shouldn't set you back more than 500,000 rials (ask for taxis near Azadi Square). 3 Namakabrud (Shahrak-e Namak Abrud, Persian: شهرک نمک ابرود,Shahrak-e Namak Ābrūd; Namak Abrood, Namak Ābrūd, Namak Ābrūd Sar, Namakrūd Sar), Chalus County, Mazandaran Province (190 km North.-about 4.5 hours away). Villa city and gondola lift in beautiful green coasts of Caspian Sea. - Violet and box-tree parks Qom — about 2 hours away southwest of Tehran by bus and one hour by car (120 km) is the most religious city of Iran followed by Mashhad 4 Shemshak ski resort (پیست اسکی شمشک), Rudbar-e Qasran District, Shemiranat County, Tehran Province (1–2 hours north-east of Tehran in the Alborz Mountains). Its steep slopes are considered appropriate for expert skiers and boarders. The slopes lie at an altitude of 2550–3050m above sea level. 5 Dizin ski resort (دیزین), Tehran Province (70 km north of Tehran). This is a larger ski resort with more facilities and is considered better for beginners and intermediates. The resorts generate some rivalry amongst the locals, with some 'Shemshakis' looking upon those who ski in Dizin as 'kids in the park' and see Shemshak as the place for 'true skiers'. The ski season: from December to May. 6 Sorkheh Hesar National Park (پارک ملی سرخه‌حصار), Rey County, Tehran Province (17 km East from Tehran - Near by Ray - Tehran 20th District - By car from Khojir Road 14 km (8.7 mi) to Khojir, branches off in Zereshki Fork). Perfect birdwatching place at an altitude of 1,547 m.