Tashkent

Understand

This area is an oasis in an arid land, and from the 5th century BC a town grew up called Chach, which eventually morphed into "Tashkent", city of stone. Conditions suited settled agriculture rather than a nomadic way of life, but the nomad warlord Genghis Khan wrecked Tashkent in 1220. It recovered through trade, and there was a golden age of mosque building through the 15th century, but the medieval city was outshone by Samarkand and Bukhara. What promoted it into central Asia's greatest city was industrialisation and Russian colonisation from the 19th century. The original town centre was west of the Chirchiq river, around Chorsu Bazaar. A Russian new town developed east of the river through the tsarist then Soviet eras, boosted during the Second World War when the USSR moved strategic industries and workforce here beyond the reach of Nazi attack. Great damage was caused by the earthquake of 26 April 1966, and the ruins were bulldozed to lay out a modern grid of long, wide boulevards. Tashkent became the capital of Uzbekistan upon independence in 1991, and its leaders sought to create a showcase city and symbol of national identity. What has come about is a mix of the grandiose, the corporate, and the crumbling. It's impressive rather than beautiful, but never less than fascinating. The climate is harshly continental with hot summers and cold winters. The best times to visit are Apr-May and Sep-Oct.

Getting there

By plane 1 Tashkent International Airport ((TAS IATA)) (8 km south of city centre). Tashkent International Airport is well connected to Europe, Russia, Middle East and Asia with Uzbekistan Airways and other major airlines. The international terminal T2 is north side of the runway, as marked on the map; T1 adjacent is simply an arrivals hall. Domestic flights are from Bukhara, Nukus, Urgench and Termez, using Terminal 3 which is 4 km south across the runway. So to transfer from an international to a domestic flight you have to clear immigration and customs with your luggage (which isn't through-checked) then look for the bus, which taxi drivers will insist is not running. The airport's "Uzport" transfer bus is hourly, otherwise take city bus 11 every 20 min. Or just take a Yandex Go taxi for about US$2 (a 10-minute ride). (updated Dec 2024) To town: the official taxi rank is just outside T2, ignore all touts and other offers, and if possible arrange your ride through your accommodation or Yandex Go, the Uber of the steppes. The ride takes 15 min to a city centre and in 2025 a local might pay 25,000 som, all of US $2, which is the rate in Yandex app. Visitors risk being charged a ransom so always negotiate and fix the fare in advance, and ensure that it's for all of you with luggage if you can't use the app. If you bought a travel e-sim for Uzbekistan before arriving, Yandex Go can freeze and not load, so you'll have to use VPN to make it work. The bus stand is 50 m away across the parking lot, from Arrivals bear left to reach it. Buses run 06:00-22:00: buses 47, 11 (northbound) and 9 take 40 min to city centre, Bus 40 runs to the main railway station, Bus 67 to Oybek metro and then on to the central square. Bus 11 southbound goes to the domestic terminal. Fares are trifling, see #Get around, but you need Uzbek small change.

By train

International From Russia, Train 123 runs from Volgograd on Tuesday and Friday, taking almost 60 hours. It also stops in Qarshi and Samarkand but you can't ride it just for the Uzbek sector. The return train 124 departs Tu Sa towards midnight. Train 306 from Samara runs F Su taking 48 hours. Direct trains run from Moscow and from Novosibirsk about once in a blue moon. From Almaty in Kazakhstan, Train 001 runs on even dates taking 18 hours, returning as Train 002 on odd dates at a tedious 04:30. Since covid, no trains cross the Kazakh-Chinese border; you have to trek away north via Petropavl or Novosibirsk to join the Trans-Siberian railway. From Dushanbe in Tajikistan, Train 3013 runs on Monday taking 18 hours, a

Getting around

By metro The Metro is fast, safe and inexpensive. It's the obvious way to get downtown from the main railway station but doesn't reach the airport or bus terminal. Opened in 1977, it's a typical Soviet-era network with large, richly themed stations, for example Kosmonavtlar celebrates Uzbekistan's contribution to the Soviet space programme. The Metro has four lines:

Chilonzor (red) from Buyuk Ipak Yoli north to downtown and Chinor south. Oʻzbekiston (blue) from Beruniy northwest to downtown, the main railway station and Doʻstlik southeast. Yunus-Obod (green) from Turkiston north to downtown and Ming O'rek south. Extension towards the airport has stalled. Circle Line (gold) from Texnopark (north) to Qipchoq (south). It's incomplete and not a circle, but spans between the south termini of the blue and red lines. There are three downtown interchanges, all involving a walk through connecting subways: Amir Temur Hiyoboni (red) with Yunus Rajabiy (green), Alisher Navoiy (green) with Paxtakor (red), and Oybek (blue) with Ming Oʻrik (green). Circle Line interchanges are Texnopark with Doʻstlik (blue) and Qipchoq with Chinor (red). Trains run ever 3-10 minutes until 23:30. A paper ticket with a QR-code is, as of January 2025, 3000 som from the cashier at the stations, by cash or card. Alternately, ATTO or major credit cards work at the gates.

By bus The main downtown public transport is the bus - these are lime green, and their destination boards alternate between Russian and Uzbek. The trams were scrapped in 2016, those battle-scarred behemoths of the boulevards, with some tramways converted into bus lanes. Probably the simplest way to plan a journey is to type "yandex bus map tashkent" into your browser. This brings up a live map of buses crawling around the city, as if in a video game, whereupon you zoom onto your start location or destination. Say you're at the airport international terminal, you might see Bus 11 in the vicinity - click on the icon and its route is revealed, north downtown through the government quarter (probably what you want) then away northwest via Chorsu Bazaar. Southbound it's heading to the domestic terminal T3. The bus system is cashless. You can pay with major credit cards (Visa, Mastercard). If credit cards don't suit you, you can get an ATTO transport card from a post office or metro cashier. The standard fare within the city in 2025 is 3000 som, and a daily ticket can be purchased for 7,000 som. Marshrutkas also ply around the city but are more expensive, around 3000 som is standard. Routes and schedules can be found from

See

Old Town

This refers to the area west of the river around Chorsu Bazaar which has the oldest buildings, but much of it is modern, with boulevards seething with traffic. The little higgledy-piggledy streets further north still have something of an old town ambience, but the developers are laying waste to them with a vigour worthy of Genghis Khan. 1 Khazret Imam Complex is a collection of religious buildings 2 km north of city centre (Metro Gafur Gulom). It was assembled piecemeal from the 16th to 21st centuries, so although it's impressive, it doesn't have the unity or geometry of (for instance) the Registan of Samarkand, and it's transected by the wide pedestrian mall of Zarkaynar Street. The complex is free to enter daily 09:00-21:00, but individual buildings have their own admission. Barak-Khan Madrasah is west side of the complex, built in 1532. It contains two mausoleums: of Suyunchxoʻjaxon the first Shaybanid ruler of Tashkent, and the "nameless" mausoleum intended for Barakh-Khan or Baroqxun, but he's buried in Samarkand. Tellya Sheikh Mosque south side of the complex was built from 1890 to 1902. Moyi Mubarek Madrasah (next to Tellya Sheikh Mosque). Daily 09:00-16:00. This building of 1857 houses the world's oldest Quran, written 644/648 AD (23-27 AH). Adult 40,000 som. (updated Sep 2024) Hazrati Imam Jome Mosque east side of the complex was built in 2007 in traditional style. Mausoleum of Abu Bakr Muhammad Qaffol Shoshiy is in the northwest corner of the complex. Qaffol Shoshiy was a scholar and holy man who died in 976 AD: "Qaffol" means locksmith, yet another of his skills. The original tomb didn't survive and was replaced by this mausoleum in 1542. Namazgokh Mosque north side of the complex was built in 1850s. It's now part of the adjacent Islamic Institute. Imam Al Bukhari Islamic Institute northeast edge of the complex is an active madrasah opened in 1971. It's a humdrum modern building, no tourist visits. Islamic Civilisation Center is a brand new museum, a grand building south of Khazret Imam. It opened in March 2026. Entry for foreigners costs 310,000 som (April 2026). 2-hour guided tour only (English, Russian or Uzbek). Just south of it, still under construction but free to walk through (as of March 2026), there is a fake "neighborhood" apparently meant to be an exhibit on what a city was like in centuries past. Eshon Guzar or Oxunguzar is the name of three mosques in Tashkent and a suburb to the southwest. The one worth looking for is the mosque at the south end of Karasaray St, if you walked from Metro Gafur Gulom towards the Khazre

Do

National Library of Uzbekistan is a pseudo-classical building at Navoi 1 in the government quarter (Metro Mustakillik maydoni). It has a comprehensive stock, but you have to register (in Uzbek) to get in.

Parks

1 Alisher Navoiy Park (Metro Milly Bog). Large popular park with fairground and artificial lake. (updated Dec 2024) 2 Do’stlik Recreation Park, Bobur (corner with Shota Rustaveli). Daily 08:00-23:00. Pleasant park with a boating lake. (updated Dec 2024) 3 Aqua Park, Amir Temur 100 (Metro Bodomzor), ☏ +998 71 235 0250. Daily 10:00-20:00. Water park 500 m south of TV tower with several pools, wave machine, water chutes and slides. There's a restaurant and bars within. Adult 100,000 som, child 50,000 som. (updated Dec 2024) Japanese Garden (200 m south of Aqua Park). Daily 10:00-22:00. Small and overpriced for a few rocks and cherry blossoms. Adult 30,000 som, child 20,000 som. (updated Dec 2024) Tashkentland is a kiddy theme park east across the pond from Japanese Garden. Free to enter daily 10:00-21:00, you pay individually for rides. 4 Mirzo Ulugbek Recreation Park, Hamidulla Oripov 21 (Metro Khamid Alimjan), ☏ +998 71 237 2379. Daily 09:00-23:00. Leafy park with boating pond and small funfair. (updated Dec 2024) Anhor Lokomotiv is a funfair and amusement park at Shaykhontohur 28, 200 m north of Navruz Park. It's open daily 10:00-23:00.

Sports

Football: Uzbekistan is part of the Asian Football Confederation, and the men's national soccer team play at Milliy Stadium. Tashkent has three clubs in Super League, the top tier, so you'll always find a match in town during the March-Nov season. 5 FC Bunyodkor, Bunyodkor 47 (Metro Novza). They play in Super League at Milliy Stadium (capacity 34,000), 5 km southwest of city centre. (updated Sep 2024) 6 FC Pakhtakor (Metro Paxtakor). They too play in Super League, and often win it. Pakhtakor Stadium (capacity 35,000, all-seater) is also used for junior internationals such as U21. It's very central, barely 500 m west of Independence Square. (updated Sep 2024) 7 FC Olympic, JAR Stadium (Metro Chorsu). They too play in Super League. The stadium (capacity 8500) is part of a multi-sports complex sprawling over 1 km x 0.5 km. (updated Dec 2024)

Live arts 8 Alisher Navoi Theatre, Atatürk 28 (Metro Mustaqilliq Maidoni), ☏ +998 71 233 9081. Box Office 10:00-19:00. Neoclassical 1940s structure, built by Japanese prisoners of war. (updated Sep 2024) Russian Drama Theatre, Atatürk 24 (block north of Opera House), ☏ +998 71 233 8165. No online ticket sales, you have to go to the Box Office. (updated Sep 2024

Buy

Money Only bring US dollars for the best exchange rates and most widely accepted use. In theory it's illegal to exchange money outside of official currency exchanges. But try to find one? Use ATMs to withdraw local money: these are widespread, mostly accept foreign debit or credit cards, and charge minimal mark-up though your own bank will pile it on. Most large businesses accept card payment and US dollar cash, but seldom other foreign currencies. So if you came with a wad of euros or UK pounds, you might struggle to buy a bus ticket or kebab. Places like hotels that quote in US dollars will only accept euros at a higher exchange rate. Uzbek banks are infamously slow, and just because they display exchange rates doesn't mean that they will exchange.

Tashkent Airport has good rates and is open 24 hours. Nothing at the main railway or bus stations. Asaka Bank main branch is at Furqat 9, 100 m south of the Navoi flyover, open M-F 09:00-18:00. They have three others. National Bank of Uzbekistan (NBU) have exchanges at their branches at Abdulla Kadiry 1 and at Amur Temir 101. Uzpromstroybank is at Pahlavon Mahmud 3, two km east of Amur Temir Square. Tashkent City Mall has banks in the lower level that change US dollars and euros.

Bazaars Locals do most of their shopping in bazaars, which have a fabulous range of daily necessities, colourful spices and herbs, fresh food, textiles and clothing, IT and tat. Their practical importance makes them into secondary transport hubs.

1 Chorsu Bazaar (Eski Juva) (Metro Chorsu). Daily 05:00-20:00. The biggest, best and oldest bazaar in Central Asia, trading here for over 2000 years. The stalls are under seven tiled domes. Beneath the largest dome are spices, fruit and veg, while the smaller domes house craft workshops, for jewelry, fancy wear, pottery and carpets. South side by Beruni Ave is a food court, lined by sheep's heads staring reproachfully through a fug of charcoal brazier smoke. (updated Dec 2024) 2 Alay Bazaar, Yahyo Gulyamov 7 (Metro Abdulla Qodiriy), ☏ +998 71 232 1453. Daily 07:00-17:00. Beautifully laid out displays of local produce, dried fruit and nuts. It's close to tourist hotels so they're quick to inflate prices if you look touristy. (updated Dec 2024) 3 Farkhad Bazaar, Farkhad (corner of Lufti), ☏ +998 90 986 9036. Daily 04:00-20:00. Large fresh produce market in a modern building. (updated Dec 2024) 4 Abu Sakhiy (Hippodrome), Ring Road (corner of Bunyodkor). Tu-Su 09:00-18:00. Busy mall in modern buildings, merging into Chilonzor shopping centre. (updated Dec 2024) 5 Parkent Bazaar, Parken

Eat

Budget Bravissimo (Junction of Shahrisabz & Movarounnakhr), ☏ +998 99 816 8080. Daily 10:30-22:30. Coffee shop with cakes and local food. (updated Dec 2024) Cafe Bukhara, Abdulla Kadiry 18 (Metro: Abdulla Kadiry), ☏ +998 99 823 1023. Daily 10:30-22:30. Relaxed cafe near the concert hall and government quarter. (updated Dec 2024) Besh Qozon, Guards Colonel Khodjaev 1 (100 m north of TV tower), ☏ +998 71 200 9444. Daily 09:00-23:00. Busy, somewhat chaotic place but it serves great plov. Far better value than the restaurant in the TV tower. (updated Dec 2024)

Mid-range

1 Ariston Park, Gandhi (north end of Mirzo Ulug'bek Recreation Park), ☏ +998 71 237 2614. Daily 10:00-23:00. Acceptable place by the park. (updated Dec 2024) 2 Caravan, Abdulla Khalkat 22, ☏ +998 78 150 6606. Daily 11:00-14:00. Good reviews for their trad Uzbek food. (updated Dec 2024) 3 Jumanji, Yunus Khos Khodjib 62, ☏ +998 71 255 4200. M-Sa 12:00-23:00, Su 17:00-23:00. Big portions of high quality central Asian, Chinese and European food. (updated Dec 2024) Zaytoon is a good Afghan restaurant 100 m further up the street, at Rakatboshi 85. 4 Khangan, Urikzor 153, ☏ +998 94 907 7196. 24 hours. Quality Korean food. (updated Dec 2024) 5 Bella Napoli, Shota Rustaveli 63, ☏ +998 253 9183. Daily 11:00-23:00. Cosy chain pizzeria serving the usual Italian staples. (updated Dec 2024) 6 Pro.Khinkali, 60 Amir Temur, ☏ +998 50 051 0101. Daily 09:00-00:00. Good Georgian restaurant. (updated Dec 2024) 7 Shashleek, Uzbekiston Ovozi 49, ☏ +998 98 101 0111. Daily 12:00-03:00. Family-friendly chain restaurant by the eco-park. (updated Dec 2024)

Drink & nightlife

Tea (choy, чай) fuels Central Asia the way gasoline fuels Texas. It's usually taken black, without milk. Tap water safety is not guaranteed, drink bottled. Beware that ice (eg for drinks) is probably from unboiled tap water. Kuratny is the pricy bar, nightclub and shisha cafe within The Chimes on Amir Temur Square, open daily 13:00-03:00. Scandalist is a cocktail bar at Istiqbol 8, open Su-Th 12:00-01:00, F Sa 12:00-03:00. The Irish Pub at Taras Shevchenko 30 (by Ming O'rik Metro) smells like an authentic pre-1980s Irish boozer, heavy with cigarette smoke. It's open daily 12:00-00:00. Bier Regen is a microbrewery at Taraqqiyot 67 near Ashxobod Park, open daily 12:00-23:30. Ye Old Chelsea Arms, Abdulla Kakhar 25 (200 m south of Dostlik Park). Daily 18:00-06:00. "Ye Old" is the warning that this is overpriced and not remotely like a London pub, but aiming for how they think the punters would imagine one. (updated Dec 2024) Pelican, Sadik Azimov 47, ☏ +998 97 755 3388. Daily 10:00-01:00. This is primarily a beer store with a few tables where you can sit and drink. (updated Dec 2024)

Sleep

Budget 1 Gulnara Guesthouse, Ozod 40 (Metro Chorsu), ☏ +998 71 240 6336. Pleasant small guesthouse by Chorsu Bazaar. B&B double $40. (updated Sep 2024) 2 Jahongir B&B, Chirokchi 4 (Metro Tinchlik), ☏ +998 90 966 3944. Welcoming small guesthouse in the suburbs. B&B double US$45. (updated Sep 2024) 3 Orzu Hotel, Kichik Mirobod 14 (Metro Ming Orik), ☏ +998 78 120 8824. Friendly small hotel with 34 rooms. B&B double US$70. (updated Sep 2024)

Mid-range

4 Asia Tashkent Hotel, Usman Nasir 111, ☏ +998 71 250 9680. Maintenance needed, but overall comfy enough. With pool and sauna. Some noise from street and nightclub. B&B double US$70. (updated Sep 2024) 5 Oasis Asaka Hotel, Fargon Yuli 23, ☏ +998 71 291 3000. Hotel in a quiet area, adequate for what you pay. B&B double US$75. (updated Sep 2024) 6 Retro Palace, Vakhidov 65, ☏ +998 71 256 3236. Adequate place in a quiet area. B&B double US$55. (updated Sep 2024) 7 Shodlik Palace Hotel, Pakhtakor 5 (Metro Paxtakor / Alisher Navoiy), ☏ +998 78 120 9977. Trad Soviet-era hotel showing its age. B&B double US$60. (updated Sep 2024) 8 Uzbekistan Hotel, Mirzamakhmud Musakhanov 45 (Metro Amir Temur Xiyoboni or Yunus Rajabiy), ☏ +998 78 113 1111. Great Soviet slab, a piece of city history, slowly getting a makeover. Very central, mostly good reviews, though the aircon struggles on hot days. Their website is only in Uzbek and Russian, and they don't respond to enquiries in English. B&B double US$65. (updated Sep 2024)

Splurge Hotel City Palace, Amir Temur 15 (opposite Wyndham, Metro Yunus Rajabiy), ☏ +998 71 238 3000. Mostly good reviews, some facilities tired. B&B double $110. (updated Sep 2024) 9 Wyndham Hotel, Amir Temur 7 (corner of Navoi, Metro Abdulla Qodirii), ☏ +998 78 120 3700. Mixed reviews for comfort and service. B&B double US$160. (updated Sep 2024) 10 Grand Mir Hotel (Гран Мир), Mirabad 2 (Metro Ming Orik), ☏ +998 78 140 2000. Business hotel, mixed reviews for comfort and cleanliness. B&B double US$130. (updated Sep 2024) 11 Le Grande Plaza Hotel, Uzbekiston Ovozi 2 (Metro Amir Temur Xiyoboni or Yunus Rajabiy), ☏ +998 78 120 6600. Comfy and central but poor service and cuisine. B&B double US$150. (updated Sep 2024) 12 Hotel Ichan Qala, Tafakkur 24, ☏ +998 71 231 9898. Pleasant hotel around a courtyard and pool. B&B double USD$100. (updated Sep 2024) 13 Ramada Tashkent, Abdulla Qodiriy 1 (1 km from Metro station Gafur Gulom or Abdulla Qodirii), ☏ +998 71 140 6000. Friendly hotel with Indian restaurant, most rooms spacious but others poky. B&B double US$120. (updated Sep 2024) 14 International Hotel Tas

Go next

Samarkand and Bukhara are the fabulous highlights of the Silk Road. Shahrisabz has the tomb intended for Timur, but he never reached it. Almaty in Kazakhstan is a Soviet-era city on a grid pattern, with lots to do and see.