Sucre

Understand

Famed throughout Bolivia for its pretty, well-kept centre, and for its agreeable climate, la ciudad blanca ("the white city") is probably the most tranquil city in Bolivia (or perhaps South America). While it offers specific attractions in the form of historic buildings and renowned theatre as well as indigenous culture and prehistoric sites in the surrounding towns and countryside, the highlight of Sucre might be its relaxed atmosphere, which detains many travellers for far longer than expected. Sucre's history has always been closely tied to that of Potosí. The city rose to prominence as an attractive retreat for wealthy and influential figures connected with Potosí's silver mines. Although Sucre can be considered a "colonial" city, its architecture is more an example of later, neo-classical style. The dishevelled, crooked streets of Potosí better reflect the chaotic urban planning of early colonialism and the silver rush, while orderly, elegant Sucre is a result of the wealth later spawned by the silver trade. Sucre’s original name, Ciudad de la Plata de la Nueva Toledo (city of the silver of New Toledo) reflects the huge significance silver played in the city’s development.

Climate

Sucre's climate is categorized as a subtropical highland climate. The city is in the tropics and the temperature is fairly stable throughout the year, average daytime highs are usually around 20 °C (68 °F) and average nighttime lows are around 10 °C (50 °F), but temperatures have risen above 30 °C (86 °F) or dropped below freezing in almost all months. November to March are the rainiest months. May to August see virtually no rain at all, though this is also the coldest time of the year.

History In the mid-16th century, the Spanish King Philip II established an Audiencia in Sucre with a jurisdiction covering what was then known as Upper Peru, that is, the land south and east of Cusco and encompassing what is today Bolivia, Paraguay, northern Chile and Argentina. Although the Audiencia conferred a degree of autonomy on Sucre, it was still a subdivision of the Viceroyalty of Peru. In the early 17th century Sucre grew, with the founding of a bishopric, as well as monasteries belonging to various religious orders. Sucre is still a centre for the Catholic church in Bolivia. In 1624 St Francis Xavier College of Chuquisaca was founded in the city. This university is still operating, and is considered one of the finest in the country, and is the second oldest university in the Americas. Sucre’s football team in the Bolivian league is Universitario, and originates from St. Fr

Getting there

By bus 1 Sucre Bus Terminal (The terminal is about 2 km from the city centre. A taxi to the centre should cost Bs. 4. This is per person not per vehicle. If you are not comfortable sharing a taxi, you should make this clear. Alternatively, micros 3 and A go from Junín near the plaza to the bus terminal.). Bs. 2.50 for accessing the platforms, which must be paid at a little office before boarding. The clerk will give you a ticket, which you give to another person at the exit door. You may skip this by waiting for the bus just outside of the terminal gate like many locals do. (updated Jun 2018) The times and destination for buses to and from Sucre are as follows, and when it comes to ticket prices expect considerable bargains if you show up short notice. However, many companies sell only cama tickets, so if you want to travel cheap (semi-cama), maybe 3 hr before would be better. All the below origins/destinations except Potosí are overnight rides - buses generally don't run these routes in the daytime.

Potosí – There are hourly connections that take 3-4 hr. You can also take a shared taxi, it will take about 2½-3 hr and the driver will go very very fast. La Paz – 12 hr Oruro Santa Cruz – 14 hr and buses pass through Samaipata. Cochabamba – It is 8-10 hr hours by bus. Buses only leave in the afternoons and evenings, with the last bus typically leaving between 21:00 and 22:00. Much of this road is unpaved, and it can be a quite uncomfortable and cold ride. Tupiza – Leaves at 22:00 from Tupiza. Tarija Villazon – 9 hr. Uyuni – Leaves at 22:00 from Uyuni. 7-8 hr. The roads out of Sucre are fairly rough, with the exception of the road to Potosí, which you also take to reach Oruro or La Paz. For this reason think hard about upgrading to a semi-cama or full cama bus. The overnight normal bus to Cochabamba is definitely not fun. (As of May 2024, this may be out of date - the road out of Sucre towards Oruro is quite good, except for a long dirt section near Oruro where a new paved highway is under construction.) Tickets generally only go on sale the day that the bus will depart (although El Dorado will sell you a ticket the day before), so to be sure of getting a seat you need to arrive at the terminal before midday. However, if you are flexible, you can also arrive a few hours or an hour before and can get great bargains, e.g. semi-cama for La Paz for Bs. 50—see the country article. Many tour agencies will offer to book tickets ahead for you, but understand that this is not how things are normally done in Sucre, so expect to pay more, and make sure you check w

Getting around

Some of the attractions outside of Sucre, such as Tarabuco market and the dinosaur footprints, can be visited by guided tour, tourist bus or public transport.

On foot and navigation Sucre is a small city and the center is very walkable. For the most part, you won't need to move more than five blocks from Plaza 25 de Mayo, the main square. Outside of the city there are many hiking and walking opportunities, as explained below. For reliable trails and GPS navigation in this region, consult OpenStreetMap, which is used by many mobile Apps like OsmAnd or Mapy.cz. Or just download the according GPX or KML files through Waymarked Trails for such trails on OpenStreetMap. (Note, you just need to change the OpenStreetMap relation ID to download the GPX or KML files through the same link.)

By taxi Sucre has plentiful taxis. Within the centre, do not pay more than Bs. 5 per person.

By micro Sucre has small buses (micros, really not much bigger than vans) that run set routes. They don't have actual stops, so just flag them down whenever and let the driver know when you're ready to get off. The fare is Bs. 3 (2026), which you pay to the driver. Micros run frequently and can sometimes be very crowded—don't be surprised to see someone hanging out the door.

See

The historical parts of Sucre were listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1991.

1 Cal Orck'o (Parque Cretácico). Tu–F 09:00–17:00, Sa Su holidays 10:00–18:00; tours to the footprints are at 12:00 and 13:00 only. More than 5,000 dinosaur footprints imprinted on a 70 degree sloping wall of a limestone quarry, which used to be a lakeshore. This is the world's largest set of dinosaur tracks, and includes many different species (though contrary to rumors, none of them are T. rex, which only lived in North America). To visit the footprints and the museum that accompanies them, you can take the Dinobus at 09:30, 11:00, 12:00, 14:00, 15:00; return times 10:00, 11:30, 13:30, 14:30, 16:00, 17:00. This red double-decker bus leaves from the front of the cathedral at Plaza 25 de Mayo (Bs. 15 round-trip, 30 min) - come a few minutes early and you'll see it waiting there. Or take Bus 'H' or Bus number '4' that leaves every 5 minutes and returns every 5 minutes from the dinosaur park and to the city (Bs. 1.5, 45-60 min). You can take this bus from Arenales street at the corner of Junin street, one block from 25 de Mayo square. Alternatively, you can get there by taxi at whatever time you want for a bit more money. A guided visit takes about 1½ hr and is included with admission. Only the guided visits at 12:00 and 13:00 get to go down into the quarry to see the footprints up close; otherwise you'll just be able to look at them from a distance. You need closed shoes to go down the quarry. The park also includes two museum exhibits, a cafe, and a collection of pretty good life-size dinosaur sculptures. Foreigners Bs. 30, plus an extra Bs. 5 if you want to take pictures. (updated May 2025) 2 Casa de la Libertad, Aniceto Arce (Central Plaza), ☏ +591 4 6454200. M-F 08:30-12:30 and 14:30-18:30, Sa Su 09:00-13:00. This museum is in a well-restored and maintained convent from the colonial era. The chapel was the meeting hall where Bolivian independence was declared on 25 May 1825. The museum includes a number of paintings and objects related to Bolivian history, especially to the independence movement, and the struggles breaking away from Spanish domination. Bs. 30 foreigners, Bs. 20 for Bolivianos. (updated Jan 2025)

3 Plaza 25 de Mayo. The heart of Sucre, surrounded by the cathedral, the office of prefecture, the town hall, the historic Casa de la Libertad, as well as a swag of restaurants and bars. Get a shoe shine (don't think that wearing flip-flops you will deter the shoe shine kids), use the free Wi-Fi, grab some snacks, or just watch the world go by. The lion-flank

Do

Sucre is generally known as a great city to kick back in. It is a popular place for people to study Spanish or volunteer, and many who visit end up staying for far longer than expected. While the city centre can be seen in a day (add another day or two if you like museums, churches, cafes, or moving slowly), the surrounding countryside is rich in other attractions, from traditional villages to dinosaur footprints to trekking through the mountains of the Cordillera de las Frailes.

1 La Recoleta. Walk up Calle Dalence ("Pantaleón Dalence"), Grau, or Calvo ("Daniel Calvo") from the central plaza to La Recoleta, a spot up on a hill with a plaza and old buildings. Although there are often events here, as well as a monastery (Convento de la Recoleta), church and museum, the main attraction is definitely the view of Sucre from the Mirador Cafe. The drinks and food here are of European price level. Adjacent Hotel Kolping also has excellent views and a lunch buffet. If you don't want to pay, there are nice views from the plaza itself. At the entry to La Recoleta there is a small but rich market where native people sell weawings and handicraft. (updated Jun 2018) 2 Parque Simón Bolívar. Take a stroll in the park, the city's favourite lovers' hangout. Just don't step on the grass. You can watch people (nice people there), watch street performances, eat. People have their small Eiffel tower there, just next is a big playing park for kids. At the upper end of Parque Bolivar stands Bolivia's supreme court. At the lower end is Estacion Aniceto Arce, Sucre's train station which is not in use. If you don't get your fill of old trains in Uyuni, there is another one within the station precinct. Ask permission from the token security guard before you enter, as there is a guard dog here (although she is usually playing with her puppy). (updated Jun 2018) Independence Day. 25 May. The day the city came alive. Sucre was where Latin America’s fight for independence started, at least that’s what we were told. The parade around the city make you feel proud, even if not close to being a Bolivian. This is also the reason for the naming of the main plaza: Plaza 25 de Mayo. Today, the plaza is full of families and couples, and it’s a fantastic place to sit and watch people go by, preferably with an ice-cream in hand. (updated Jun 2018) International Human Rights Film Festival (Festival Internacional de Cine de los Derechos Humanos). Known as the "Seventh Eye", a bi-annual film festival organized by PUKAÑAWI has occurred 20 times in Sucre. The festival recognizes films that focus o

Buy

In Sucre, shops tend to be clustered by type. So you might see one block with 15 jewelry stores, then another with a dozen toy stores, and so on. Sucre is famous for its tapestries, which are sold at Tarabuco market and shops all around the town. Different tribes or family groups from the villages that surround Sucre all have their own unique style, which is shown in their work by using different colours or symbols. Some tapestries can take up to a year for one person to make, depending on size and complexity. Travelers can help support this tradition by purchasing the tapestries from Tarabuco market, or at a cheaper price, from the many shops in the town. The best tapestries are sold in fair trade stores and at the ethnographic museum. Locally knitted sweaters, scarves, and related items are a good bargain, especially those made from alpaca wool.

1 Mercado Central (Central Market), Arce and Siles. Big market selling food, produce, and other products, from birthday cakes to potatoes to candles to cow snouts. Wide variety of fresh fruit, and some stands near the back selling different kinds of fresh juice. (updated Dec 2017) 2 Mercado Negro (Mercado Salvador Sánchez), Junín and Regimiento Campos 6 de Infantería (follow Junín north from the center). Its name means "Black Market", but there doesn't seem to be anything shady going on. Mostly though just cheap China clothes and textiles. (updated May 2018) 3 Mercado Campesino, Rene Calvo Arana 95, ☏ +591 69687960. M-F 06:00 - 14:00, Sa 06:00 - 13:00, closed Su. Sucre's largest traditional marketplace. Huge variety of vendors offering anything imaginable and a lot of things you would never imagine. Many meat vendors offering freshly slaughtered meat products. A huge number of fresh fruit and vegetable vendors. Large prepared food area where unusual scents beckon tourists to try authentic regional dishes at some of the lowest prices in the city. A tasty lunch can be had for 3 Bs. The place is always crowded and has a reputation for pickpockets, so secure your valuables (or leave them in your hotel room). (updated Jan 2024)

Eat

Sucre offers a wide range of eateries from street vendors and stalls in the markets to elegant restaurants. The large numbers of students mean there are many interesting but inexpensive places to get a filling meal. Probably the cheapest lunches are had upstairs in the market (from Bs. 8). Salteñas, a type of large empanada, usually filled with meat, that's popular in Bolivia, can be found easily. Several small salteña eateries are at the lower end of Calle San Alberto. Sucre is also famous for its chocolates. Chocolates Para Ti and Chocolates Taboada, both with shops just off the central plaza, are the best known, and there are several shops selling artisanal chocolates (aka confectionery) between the plaza and the central market. Para Ti also have shops at the airport and bus terminal, although the latter is usually closed. However, the incredible amount of sugar they put into the confectionery leaves doubts whether it will be of everyone’s taste. But no wonder one of the many chains selling confectionery is simply called Sucre.

Budget 1 Patio de Comidas, Camargo 582-526. An outdoor cooked food center inside Parque Bolivar that is frequented by only locals. Mainly meat and pizza. There are two stalls very cheap food from Bs. 3 with vegetarian options, don't ask, just eat. (updated Apr 2020) 2 Condor Cafe, on the corner of Bolivar and Calvo streets (near central plaza). Good selection of food and drinks (including specialties like stuffed potato and quinoa beer), middle-priced, very nice atmosphere. Local tourism agency Condor Trekkers works from there, so you can meet the guys (very friendly) and discuss with them different options for exploring Sucre surroundings. (updated Jan 2019)

Mid-range

3 Bohemio's, Junin 433 (adjacent to central market on the former Peatonal). 4-course lunch Bs. 15. 4 Florin, Bolivar 567. Serves a mix of Bolivian and international dishes, including shwarma, Thai and an Indonesian feast for two (or more). Great coffee, fantastic krocetten and good fast WiFi. Also doubles as a bar with live music. Cosy and great atmosphere, though it's reputed by some locals as the source of a few food poisoning cases. Nightly happy hour from 17:30 to 22:30 offers two-for-one drinks and a regular crowd. Has thumping events from time to time. Particularly popular with locals and the resident gringo population. 5 El Germen, San Alberto 231. Serves a fusion of delicious Bolivian and German cooking. All lunch specials (Bs.20) are vegetarian, but you can order meat dishes from the menu (menu dishes take a lot longer to come). Also has great

Drink & nightlife

Most places on the main square, and down the first block of Calle Nicolas Ortiz, are heavily gringofied, -for better or worse. Sunday is by far the slowest night. In the market there are many stalls selling all kinds of fruit juices and salads. Particularly recommended is the multi-vitaminico, a mix of basically everything in the stall - cereales, fruits, vegetables, and sometimes egg, beer, honey etc. - which is a great pre-hike breakfast or a great post-drinking pick-me-up.

1 El Alfarero, Arce 262. 17:00-22:00. University students run a cheap and cosy cafe with some board games and pingpong table. Also screens films. Students receive a discount. 2 Bibliocafe. Near the Joy Ride Cafe got mixed drinks at moderate prices. Also one of the few places in Sucre to serve Taquina Amber, one of Bolivia's best brews. Plays classic rock and pop. Also serves food. There are actually two Bibliocafes: Bibliocafe is more relaxed and intimate; Bibliocafe 'Concert' has some live music and is more energetic. (updated Apr 2020) 3 Menfis, Bolivar 650. Warm up venue for young locals on weekends. Large beer Bs. 12. 4 Stigma, Calle Bolivar. Biggest club in town, with a young crowd. Fills up at 02:00. Entry Bs. 10, small beer Bs. 10. 5 Tabacos Soul Anexo, Boquerón 51. Never ends. Plays rock. Check your bill! great mixed drinks served in pitchers. Cheap and very social Drinks Bs. 15, 0.6 l beer Bs. 11.50. 6 La Posada, Audiencia 92, ☏ +591 46460101. Just a few steps from the main square, the hotel La Posada offers a nice buffet every Sunday that is worth the Bs. 40. because of the vegetarian parts. Starts at 12:00, don't be too late, since it can be crowded. 7 Goblin Bar y Cerveceria, Grau 246, ☏ +591 73035722. Th-Sa 20:00 - 02:00, closed Su-W. Cozy bar that is Sucre's temple to beer. Gung-ho servers are happy to chat about beer styles and flavors. Artesanal craft beers are made in-house, but there are usually only a handful of beers available at any given time, mostly basic ale styles. (updated Jan 2024)

Sleep

Budget 1 Hostal Pachamama, Calle Aniceto Arce 599, ☏ +591-4-645-3673. Clean hostel built around a garden. Shared kitchen. Electric warm water. Free wifi available in the garden and most of the rooms. Double/Matrimonial Bs. 90. (updated Apr 2020) 2 Amigo Hostel, Calle Colon 125 (two blocks from main plaza), ☏ +591 4 6461706, fax: +591 4 6461706, [email protected]. Check-in: 11:00, check-out: 10:30. Laundry service, fast internet (no wifi, just one computer in lobby), Spanish lessons one by one basis, no lockers only security box at lobby, gas powered hot showers. The bathrooms could do with more frequent cleaning, there seems to be a problem with drainage causing the sink to block and when you take a shower expect to stand in inches of water. Great hostel, just really grumpy non helpful staff. Theft from the rooms have been reported. Single, shared bath Bs. 45, double shared bath Bs. 70, dorm bed shared bath Bs. 30, breakfast included. 3 Hostal Austria, Av. Ostria Gutierrez (opposite the bus terminal), ☏ +591 4 6454202. A good and comfortable place if you're looking for something close to the bus terminal. Single with shared bathroom Bs. 35, with private bathroom Bs. 60. (updated Apr 2020) 4 Kultur Berlin Hostal, Avaroa 326, ☏ +591 46466854. Popular hostel with a weekend party atmosphere. Serves a breakfast with fruits, veggies, bread and cheese. Strong coffee. Clean, comfortable rooms. Bs 60. (updated Jan 2024)

Mid-range 5 Hotel Parador Santa Maria la Real, Bolivar 625, ☏ +591 4 6439592, [email protected]. This singular hotel with past, history and art in every room occupies a house since the 18th century. It was renovated but conserves its structure and constructive details intact with meticulous restoration. 6 Santa Cecilia, Calle Potosi 386, ☏ +591 4-644-1304. Really private 5-room guest house with cable and wi-fi in each room (Double or Twin), communal kitchen, TV room and courtyard. The family live next door so it's as if you have the place to yourself and it's 3 streets from the plaza (5 min). There is B&B sign outside, so just ring the bell. 7 Honorary French Consulate (La Villa Francesa Guest House), Calle Dalence 383, ☏ +591 643 3140. Well-kept secret, they notably don't advertise or list themselves in any guide books. In fact, this place isn't really a hotel, but the honorary French consulate, which also offers beautiful rooms in French style for rent. Prices can be expensive - Bs. 90 for a day, but if you stay for a week, it'll be Bs. 50/day and for a month is Bs. 45/day (prices are for single room with shared bath). Wifi in c

Go next

Tarabuco – A popular one-day or half-day excursion to the Sunday market. If you want explanation and guidance, any tour agency can arrange a tour. But you don't need an agency—there is frequent and cheap (Bs. 10 one way) public transportation (minivans) too, or even trucks on the road to and from Tarabuco. It takes about 2 hr to reach the town. It is important to leave early; the markets are at their best before lunch time, and begin to pack up in the early afternoon. Candelaria – For a far less touristy experience visit this village, which is further from Sucre than Tarabuco, but a part of the same culture that is renowned nation-wide for its handicrafts. According to people from Indian Arts Museum, prices of handicrafts are better in Tarabuco (because sellers compete there), but in Candelaria you can get very sophisticated and beautiful works (not sold in Tarabuco). Transportation is very limited and people have been stuck out here, so it's best to go with a tour agency.

Yotala and Nucchu – Yotala is a little nice town, can be reached with minivan (Bs. 4, leave Sucre from cemetery, journey time 30 min). You may want to head to Nucchu from there. Nucchu is a village, probably most famous for hacienda, where first presidents (Sucre, Bolivar) used to stay during independence war. The hacienda is quite nicely preserved, a local lady takes care after it. It may be possible (depends on, i.e., if the owner is in Bolivia) to spend a night there, Bs. 80 (contact/reservations: +591 645 17 98 or +591 645 20 22). There is another famous building (of some princess?) in Nucchu, and the village is interestingly laid out (a river, two hanging pedestrian bridges). To reach Nucchu from Yotala best is to catch some public transport (ask people in Yotala) that occasionally goes there. Or try to hitch-hike, you may be lucky. Otherwise it's quite a long walk, but the scenery is good, you can meet local Quechua people (they speak Spanish), they can tell you about the life in the valley and difficult conditions there. Potosí – Formerly the most prosperous town in Bolivia and still a mining town today. It is interesting to see and maybe do a tour into the mines. To get to Argentina, several companies offer direct buses from the Terminal de Buses Sucre departing at 20:00, arriving at the border town of Villazon around 06:00. (Bs. 70-80 for full cama; 9 hr.) Do not buy an onward ticket from touts at the border, only buy from the bus station in La Quiaca after crossing the border by foot.