Singapore

Understand

Singapore is a microcosm of Asia, populated by Chinese, Malays, Indians and a large group of workers and expatriates from all around the globe, in a country that can be crossed in barely an hour. Having celebrated its 50th birthday in 2015, Singapore has more often than not chosen economic pragmatism over social concerns, encouraging constant reuse and redevelopment of land with huge projects like the Marina Bay Sands and Resorts World Sentosa integrated resorts as well as becoming a significant Asian financial hub, but there has also been a growing push-back to preserve local heritage in Balestier and elsewhere; just one of the many decisions to balance for the country's future.

History The first mentions of Singapore in historical records date back to the second and third centuries, in Greek and Chinese texts. According to legend, Srivijayan prince Sang Nila Utama landed on the island in the 13th century and, catching sight of a strange creature that he thought was a lion, decided to found a new city he called Singapura, Sanskrit for Lion City. Alas, there have never been any lions anywhere near Singapore or elsewhere in Malaya, so the mysterious beast was more probably a tiger or wild boar. Other records indicate that the island was settled earlier and was an important port for various kingdoms for centuries. However, Portuguese raiders destroyed the settlement in 1613 and Singapura faded into obscurity. The story of Singapore as we know it today began in 1819, when Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles made a deal with a claimant to the throne of the Sultanate of Johor: the British would support his claim in exchange for the right to set up a trading post on the island. Though the Dutch initially protested, an Anglo-Dutch treaty was signed in 1824 separating the Malay world into British and Dutch spheres of influence (resulting in the current Malaysia-Indonesia and Singapore-Indonesia borders). The Dutch renounced their claim to Singapore and ceded their colony in Malacca to the British, in exchange for the British ceding their colonies on Sumatra to the Dutch.

Raffles' master stroke was to declare Singapore a free port, with no duties charged on trade. As traders flocked to escape onerous Dutch taxes, the trading post soon grew into one of Asia's busiest, drawing people from far and wide. Along with Penang and Malacca, Singapore became one of the Straits Settlements and a jewel in the British colonial crown. Its economic fortunes received a further boost when palm oil and rubber from other parts of Malaya were processed and shipped out via Singapore. In 1

Getting there

Immigration All visitors to Singapore must have a passport that is valid for at least 6 months from their date of arrival. Citizens of Australia, the European Union, New Zealand, Norway, Japan, South Korea, Switzerland the United Kingdom and the United States do not need a visa for stays of 90 days or less. Holders of a valid APEC Business Travel Card (ABTC) may visit Singapore for up to 60 days without a visa. Citizens of most other countries can stay without a visa for 30 days or less, so that's the case if your country is not named here. Citizens of the following countries have to apply for a visa in advance, and can do so online, through a local contact in Singapore or at a Singaporean embassy or consulate: Afghanistan, Algeria, Armenia, Azerbaijan, Bangladesh, Belarus, Egypt, Georgia, India, Iran, Iraq, Jordan, Kazakhstan, Kosovo, Lebanon, Libya, Kyrgyzstan, Mali, Morocco, Nigeria, Moldova, North Korea, Pakistan, Palestine, Russia, Somalia, South Sudan, Sudan, Syria, Tajikistan, Tunisia, Turkmenistan, Ukraine, Uzbekistan, and Yemen. Citizens of several former Soviet countries (Georgia, Ukraine, and the Commonwealth of Independent States) are eligible for visa-free transit for up to 96 hours if you have an onward plane ticket to a third country. You may enter Singapore by any mode of transport, but must depart by air. A similar scheme is available for citizens of India who have a valid visa or residence permit issued by Australia, Canada, Germany, Japan, New Zealand, Switzerland, the United Kingdom or the United States (Schengen visas issued by other countries do not count), and have an onward plane, ferry or cruise ticket to a third country. Indian citizens visiting Singapore under the scheme may enter Singapore by any mode of transport, but must depart by air or sea. No visa is required for transit at Changi Airport as long as you don't leave the secure area and your connecting flight leaves within 24 hours. See Sterile transit. All travellers entering Singapore, including Singapore citizens, are required to complete a SG Arrival Card online no earlier than 3 days before your arrival date. If you have not done this before you get off the aeroplane, you may complete this form using the computers near the immigration desks. Once completed, you will receive an e-mail containing a barcode that you can scan at the immigration counter or you can use a screenshot of the confirmation page. All visitors to Singapore can use the automated clearance gates, with no pre-enrollment required. Manual counters are still available for families with children under

Getting around

Getting around Singapore is easy: the public transport network is extremely easy to use, affordable, and covers populated areas extensively. Furthermore, taxis/rideshares are reasonably priced and easy to hail via apps. CityMapper, Google Maps, and Apple Maps are all capable of figuring out the fastest route by rail and bus and even estimating taxi/rideshare fares between any two points.

Fares Fares are charged based on distance and mode of transport. The easiest way to pay for all public transport is to use a contactless Visa, Mastercard or American Express, which you can use to tap in to and out of any train or bus, including the Sentosa Express. Mobile phones with Visa, Mastercard or American Express stored in Apple Pay or Google Pay work as well. Foreign-issued cards are charged an additional $0.60/day handling fee, but for short stays (i.e. up to eight days over a five-year period) this still works out cheaper than an EZ-link/NETS prepaid card. Journey history is available with a TransitLink SimplyGo account. Alternatively, pick up an EZ-link or NETS prepaid card at any train station or 7-Eleven store. The EZ-link prepaid card costs $12 ($5 for the card itself and $7 stored value) whilst the NETS prepaid card costs $10 ($5 for the card itself and $5 stored value). The cards can be topped up using cash or Singapore-issued credit or debit cards at ticketing machines located in train stations, by cash at convenience stores, or online through the EZ-link app. If you are leaving Singapore and you have some money on your card, you can go to any TransitLink ticket office for a refund, minus a $5 processing fee. The cards are valid for five years. The Singapore Tourist Pass (STP) gives you unlimited rides for $17/24/29 for 1/2/3 days respectively, plus some discounts for attractions. However, given that most trips only cost $1.00-2.50, you would need to use the public transport system often during your stay for the STP to be worthwhile. Cash is not accepted on the MRT/LRT. More expensive cash fares are available on buses but no change is given. Children under seven years old travel free. If your child is above 0.9m in height they need a Child Concession Card to travel. Remember to tap your device or card against a reader before you exit a bus. Otherwise, you will be charged the maximum fare. The bus operator has no idea where you got off and assumes that you rode to the end of the line.

By train

The MRT (Mass Rapid Transit) and LRT (Light Rail Transit) are the backbone of Singapore's transit system. They are a cheap, fast and reliable mode of transpo

See

Sights in Singapore are covered in more detail under the various districts. Broadly speaking:

Beaches and tourist resorts: Head to one of the three beaches on Sentosa or its southern islands. Other beaches can be found on the East Coast. Culture and cuisine: See Chinatown for Chinese treats, Little India for Indian flavours, Geylang Serai for a Malay experience or the East Coast for Eurasian and Peranakan culture and delicious seafood, including the famous chilli and black pepper crab. History and museums: The Bras Basah area east of Orchard and north of the Singapore River is Singapore's colonial core, with historical buildings and museums. All government-run museums in Singapore are free admission for Singapore citizens and permanent residents except for temporary exhibits, but visitors will be charged an admission fee. Nature and wildlife: Popular tourist attractions Singapore Zoo, Night Safari, Jurong Bird Park and the Botanic Gardens are all in the North and West. For something closer to the city, visit the futuristic Gardens by the Bay in the Marina district, behind the Marina Bay Sands. Finding "real" nature is a little harder, but the Bukit Timah Nature Reserve (in the same district as the zoo) has more plant species than in the whole of North America, and is also home to a thriving population of wild monkeys. Pulau Ubin, an island off the Changi Village in the east, is a flashback to the rural Singapore of yesteryear. Red junglefowl (often called wild chickens) can often be seen in many grassy areas around the city, even in downtown areas. City parks full of locals jogging or doing tai chi can be found everywhere. See Botanical tourism in Singapore for details on where to see trees and plants. Skyscrapers and shopping: The heaviest shopping mall concentration is in Orchard Road, while skyscrapers are clustered around the Singapore River, but also check out Bugis and Marina Bay to see where Singaporeans shop. Places of worship: Don't miss this aspect of Singapore, where Buddhism, Taoism, Hinduism, Sikhism, Christianity, Islam and Judaism all exist in sizeable numbers. Religious sites can be easily visited and welcome non-followers outside of service times. Particularly worth visiting include: the vast Kong Meng San Phor Kark See Monastery near Ang Mo Kio/Bishan, the colourful Hindu Sri Mariamman Temple in Chinatown, the psychedelic Burmese Buddhist Temple in Balestier and the stately Masjid Sultan in Arab Street.

Itineraries Three days in Singapore — A three-day sampler set of food, culture and shopping in Singapore, easily divisible into bit

Do

While you can find a place to practice nearly any sport in Singapore — golfing, surfing, scuba diving, even ice skating and snow skiing — due to the country's small size your options are rather limited and prices are relatively high. For watersports in particular, the busy shipping lanes and sheer population pressure mean that the sea around Singapore is murky, and most locals head up to Pulau Tioman, Sibu Island (Malaysia) or Bintan (Indonesia) instead. On the upside, there is an abundance of dive shops in Singapore, and they often arrange weekend trips to good dive sites off the East Coast of Malaysia.

Culture

On the cultural side of things, Singapore has been trying to shake off its boring, buttoned-down reputation and attract more artists and performances. The star in Singapore's cultural sky is the Esplanade theatre in Marina Bay, a world-class facility for performing arts and a frequent stage for the Singapore Symphony Orchestra. For traditional Chinese music, its counterpart is the Singapore Chinese Orchestra. Most any big-ticket musician or band touring Asia will perform in Singapore, see Ticketle for a one-stop shop listing of upcoming events. In May or June, don't miss the yearly Singapore International Festival of Arts (formerly the Singapore Arts Festival), featuring a programme of art exhibitions/performances and artist conversations over several weeks. Advance tickets for almost any cultural event can be purchased from SISTIC, either on-line or from any of their numerous ticketing outlets, including the Singapore Visitor Centre on Orchard Rd. Going to the movies is a popular Singaporean pastime, but look for "NC16" (age 16 and above only) or "M18" (age 18 and above only) or "R21" ratings (age 21 and above only) if you like your movies with fewer cuts. The big theatre chains are Carnival Cinemas, Golden Village and Shaw Brothers. For a taste of Singapore through film, Jack Neo's popular comedies showcase the foibles of Singaporean life, while directors like K. Rajagopal, Boo Jun Feng, and Tan Pin Pin are ushering in a new wave of contemporary film art in Singapore. Wayang is a Chinese street opera, performed in open-air theaters by troupes. It combines a wide variety of traditional art forms with singing, mime, dancing, acrobatics and martial arts. It is now a dying art form as dialect proficiency among the younger generation continues to decrease, so catch it while you still can. They are generally most common during the Hungry Ghost Festival, the seventh month of the Chinese calendar. A closely-related and equally endangered genre is

Buy

Money

The Singaporean currency is the Singapore dollar, denoted by the symbol S$ or $ (ISO code: SGD). It is divided into 100 cents, denoted ¢. There are coins of 5¢ (bronze or gold), 10¢ (silver), 20¢ (silver), 50¢ (silver) and $1 (2nd series: gold; 3rd series: silver with gold rim). Notes are in denominations of $2 (purple), $5 (green), $10 (red), $50 (blue), $100 (orange), $1,000 (purple) and $10,000 (gold). The lower three denominations are issued entirely in polymer, the rest of the denominations are issued in paper. The latter two denominations are no longer issued but remain legal tender, very rarely seen and useless outside of luxury boutiques, casinos, and department stores — travellers would be wise to avoid them. Unless it includes other initials (e.g., US$ to stand for U.S. dollars), the "$" sign used in the island-nation (and in this guide) refers to Singapore dollars. The Brunei dollar is pegged at par with the Singapore dollar and is legally "customary tender" that can be used interchangeably. In practice, it's very rare to see Brunei notes in Singapore, and if you try to use one, many smaller merchants, being unaware of the peg, will reject it initially. To avoid additional hassle, show the official website about the peg to the merchant, or consider changing your Brunei dollars to Singapore dollars before use. All banks are legally required to exchange Brunei notes free of charge.

Currency exchange Currency exchange booths can be found in every shopping mall and usually offer better rates, better opening hours, and much faster service than banks. Exchange rates at Changi Airport and ferry terminals are worse than in town, but not outrageously so. For large amounts, ask for a quote, as it will often get you a better rate than displayed on the board. For small amounts, make sure you're getting at least what it says on the board to avoid surprise fees. Besides the major world currencies, many Asian currencies that are difficult to exchange elsewhere can be exchanged quite easily in Singapore, including the Malaysian ringgit, Indonesian rupiah, Thai baht, Vietnamese dong and New Taiwan dollar. Mustafa in Little India accepts almost any major currency at very good rates and many obscure currencies as well, as do the fiercely competitive small shops at or surrounding the aptly named Change Alley (next to Raffles Place MRT). For countries that have larger foreign worker communities in Singapore, look for places where they congregate to get the best rates for their respective currencies. For instance, you will generally find the best rates

Eat

Singapore is a melting pot of cuisines from around the world, and many Singaporeans are obsessive gourmands who love to makan ("eat" in Malay). You will find quality Chinese, Malay, Indian, Japanese, Korean, Thai, Italian, French, British, American and other food in this city-state. Eating habits run the gamut, but most foods are eaten by fork and spoon: push and cut with the fork in the left hand, and eat with the spoon in the right. Noodles and Chinese dishes typically come with chopsticks, while Malay and Indian food can be eaten by hand, but nobody will blink an eye if you ask for a fork and spoon instead. If eating by hand, use only your right hand to handle your food, as Malays and Indians traditionally use their left hand to handle dirty things. Take note of the usual traditional Chinese etiquette when using chopsticks, and most importantly, do not stick your chopsticks vertically into a bowl of rice. If eating in a group, serving dishes are always shared, but you'll get your own bowl of rice and soup. It's common to use your own chopsticks to pick up food from communal plates, but serving spoons can be provided on request. When eating at Western restaurants, traditional European dining etiquette generally applies. Keep an eye out for the Singapore Food Festival, held every year in July.

Local delicacies Singapore is justly famous for its food, a unique mix of Malay, Chinese, Indian and Western elements. The following is only a brief sampler of the most popular dishes.

Peranakan/Nonya cuisine

The most identifiable cuisine in the region is Peranakan or Nonya cuisine, born from the mixed Malay and Chinese communities of what were once the British colonies of the Straits Settlements (modern-day Singapore, Penang and Malacca).

Ayam buah keluak is a dish made by cooking pieces of chicken in a rich and spicy sauce made with the black seeds of the Pangium edule or kepayang tree. The seeds contain cyanide and are deadly to humans if not prepared correctly, making it a very labour intensive dish to prepare. Babi pongteh is pork belly stewed in a salty fermented bean sauce. Chilli crab is a whole crab ladled with oodles of sticky, tangy chilli sauce. It's spicy at first, but the more you eat, the better it gets. Notoriously difficult to eat, so don't wear a white shirt: just dig in with your hands and ignore the mess. The seafood restaurants of the East Coast are famous for this. For a less messy but equally tasty alternative, ask for black pepper crab. Kaya is a jam-like spread made from egg and coconut, an odd-sounding but tasty combination. Serve

Drink & nightlife

Singapore's nightlife isn't quite a match for Patpong, but it's no slouch either: some clubs have 24 hr licences and few places close before 3AM. Singapore's nightlife is largely concentrated along the three quays — Boat, Clarke and Robertson — of the Riverside, with the clubs of Sentosa giving party animals even more reason to dance the night away and the casino on Marina Bay also entering the fray. Any artists touring Asia are pretty much guaranteed to stop in Singapore, with superclub Zouk (Clarke Quay) in particular regularly clocking high on lists of the world's best nightclubs and Marquee at Marina Bay Sands drawing big names. Hipsters congregate in Kampong Glam/Arab St near Bugis, while gay bars are concentrated around Neil Road in Chinatown. Fancy cocktail bars cluster near the aptly named Club St near the CBD and Keong Saik Road in Chinatown. The legal drinking age is 18, and while this is surprisingly loosely enforced, some clubs have higher age limits. If you are asked for identification, the only acceptable forms of identification are a Singapore-issued identity card or a passport. Friday is generally the biggest night of the week for going out, with Saturday a close second. Sunday is gay night in many bars and clubs, while Wednesday or Thursday is ladies' night, often meaning not just free entrance but free drinks for women. Most clubs are closed on Monday and Tuesday, while bars generally stay open but tend to be very quiet. Outside the city centre, large concentration of bars can also be found in Geylang, Singapore's largest red-light district, as well as along Joo Chiat Road, both on the East Coast. These bars cater to a more local working class clientele, and you are likely to stand out as a tourist. For a night out Singapore style, gather a group of friends and head for the nearest karaoke box. Major chains include Party World and the family-friendly "no alcohol, no surprises, no frills" Teo Heng. Room rental ranges from $30/hour and up, drinks and snacks extra. At the other end of the karaoke spectrum are various non-chain, glitzy (or dodgy) looking, neon-covered KTV lounges, in which attractive female hostesses flirt and drink with male patrons in exchange for tips. These are typically much more expensive than the family-friendly establishments. Perhaps unique to Singapore is the Thai disco (siam diu), where patrons compete for the affections of attractive female entertainers — who, despite the name, can be from anywhere in the region as well as Singapore itself — by purchasing expensive drinks and "flowers" (garlands or sashes) for

Sleep

Individual listings can be found in Singapore's district articles

Accommodation in Singapore is expensive by South-East Asian standards. Particularly in the higher price brackets, demand outstrips supply and during big events like the F1 race or some of the larger conventions it's not uncommon for pretty much everything to sell out. Lower-end hotels and hostels, though, remain affordable and available throughout the year. Unless you're a shopping maven intent on maximizing time in Orchard Road's shopping malls, the Riverside is probably the best place to stay in Singapore. You will notice that hotels within certain parts of the Riverside area are much more expensive than others. Those hotels are inside the boundary of the Electronic Road Pricing area. The ERP tolls become part of their business overhead which they build into their nightly rates. GST and Service charge are generally not included in the advertised rates. Therefore, when considering how much to allocate for accommodation, don't forget to add 19% to the advertised price (10% for the service charge then add 9% GST of the amount including the service charge). As it is a crime to harbour illegal immigrants, hotels will need to check the passports and electronic visit passes of all guests at check-in to ensure that they are in the country legally; make sure you have a working mobile data connection or have your visit pass saved offline as you won't be able to check in without it. Likewise, for long-term accommodation, your landlord will need to check your passport and long-term visit pass (e.g. work permit, student pass, etc.); if they do not, this is a red flag, as they might be using their property to conceal illegal vice activities.

Budget Backpackers' hostels can be found primarily in Little India, Bugis, Clarke Quay and the East Coast. Backpacker hostels cost from $20–40 for a dorm bed. There seems to be a bedbug epidemic among many of the very cheapest hostels — read the reviews carefully before booking. Cheap hotels are clustered in the Geylang, Balestier and Little India districts, where they service mostly the type of customer who rents rooms by the hour. Rooms are generally small and not fancy, but are still clean and provide basic facilities such as a bathroom and television. Prices start as low as $30 for "day use" of a few hours and $60 for a full night's stay. The three major chains, with hotels throughout the island, are:

Hotel 81, ☏ +65 6767 8181. Singapore's largest budget hotel chain, with over 20 functional hotels with rates starting at $69 for two. (updated Nov 202

Go next

Singapore makes a good base for exploring South-East Asia, with nearly all of the region's countries and their main tourist destinations — including Bangkok, Phuket, Angkor Wat, Ho Chi Minh City and Bali — under 2 hr away by plane. Thanks to budget carriers, Singapore is an excellent place for catching cheap flights to China and India. Singapore also has direct flights to many of the smaller cities in Malaysia, Indonesia and Thailand, which can be convenient points of entry if you wish to skip the ever-present queues and touts at their main airports. For day or weekend trips from Singapore, the following are popular:

Batam — The nearest Indonesian island to Singapore, just a short ferry trip away. Mainly industrial and infamous for its vice trade, but has some resorts. Bintan — Indonesian island just 55 min away by ferry, offering both high-end resorts and the "real Indonesia" experience. Johor Bahru — Malaysian city just across the Causeway. Just 20 min by bus 950 from Woodlands Bus Interchange. Not much to look at, but popular for cheap eating, shopping, spa experiences and Legoland Malaysia. Kuala Lumpur — Malaysia's vibrant capital. 45 min by plane, 4–5 hr by bus or 10 hr by train. Malacca — Once one of the three Straits Settlements, now a sleepy colonial town and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 3–4 hr by bus, although it might take a little longer due to border congestion. Pulau Tioman — The nearest of Malaysia's East Coast paradise islands, reachable by bus & ferry. For those who can afford more time to travel, here are several destinations that are popular long weekend (i.e. when a weekend coincides with a public holiday) trips for Singaporeans:

Bali — One of Indonesia's biggest tourist draws with its nice beaches and good food. About 2.5 hr away by plane. Bangkok — Thailand's capital and considered a food, shopping, and clubbing paradise by many Singaporeans. It is less than 2 hr flight away, or 2 nights by train, assuming you don't stop off in Kuala Lumpur or Butterworth (for Penang). Phuket — One of the largest islands in Thailand, is another popular destination for Singaporeans. It offers a great weekend getaway and is less than 2 hr flight away. Relatively cheaper than Singapore, it is a great destination to hang around. Ipoh — The capital of the Malaysian state of Perak with many well-preserved colonial buildings, it is famous among Singaporeans for its food. 7–8 hr away by coach, or 1 hr by plane. Langkawi — An island in the Malaysian state of Kedah, just south of the Thai border, famed for endless beaches. Just over an hour by plane. Pena