Shenyang

Understand

Nurhaci built his imperial palace and was laid to rest in one of the first two imperial tombs of the Qing Dynasty, Fuling Tomb. His son Hong Taiji is buried in Zhaoling tomb, which is the second of the first two imperial tombs. The imperial palace and the two tombs are all listed by UNESCO as World Heritage Sites. It was in Shenyang that the Russian army was defeated by the Japanese in 1905, resulting in Japan taking control of the Liaodong Peninsula from Russia. It was also here, on September 18, 1931 that Japan would stage the Mukden incident in order to use it as a pretext to occupy all of Northeast China. This city was also the home to the warlord Zhang Zuolin and his son Zhang Xueliang who ruled over the Northeast during the 1920s. In the 20th century, Shenyang developed as a major industrial centre. Today the city is rapidly losing its older structures with large scale construction throughout the city, as in all other cities in China.

Climate

Shenyang has a monsoon-influenced continental climate with large seasonal variation. Winters are very cold, but dry, and can easily feature nights of −20 °C or below. Summers are hot and humid, with daytime temperatures near 30 °C, rarely pushing above into the high 30s °C, though.

Read The Underbelly of the Dragon by F.S. Upp

Getting there

By plane The city is served by the Shenyang Taoxian International Airport, and by several smaller, regional airports. There are direct flights to Shenyang from most Chinese airports.

1 Shenyang Taoxian International Airport (沈阳桃仙国际机场; Shěnyángtáoxiān Guójìjīchǎng SHE IATA) (by car 15 miles (24 km) south of the city). Direct international flights include Seoul and Cheongju in South Korea; Pyongyang in North Korea; Irkutsk and Khabarovsk in Russia; Frankfurt, Osaka, Tokyo and Vancouver. Tramway line 2 connects the airport with the Shenyang subway system. With the transfer to the subway, it takes a bit over an hour to get into downtown. An airport shuttle also runs from the airport to the main China Northern Airlines ticket office (117 Zhonghua Road; 中华路117号; Zhōnghuálù) and back frequently.

By car Shenyang is connected by a major expressway, the 6-lane Jingshen Expressway, from Beijing, some 685 km (425 mi) away. Expressways also link Shenyang with Jilin and Heilongjiang provinces. The Shenda Expressway connecting Shenyang and Dalian was the first expressway ever built in China (383 km/238 mi). It is the fastest highway (8-lane) linking one of the largest port cities to Shenyang.

By train Train service is provided through two train stations, the North Railway Station and the Railway Station. The North Railway Station handles the majority of the long-distance trains while the Railway Station handles most of the northeast trains and does local service around the province. Some trains travel to both stations so be aware of which station you need to board your train. High Speed Rail is available from both stations (D train). The train stations are connected with metro.

2 North Railway Station (沈阳北站; Shěnyáng Běizhàn) (at Beizhan Road (北站路; Běizhànlù), Line 1). Beijing - takes about 8 hours (or 4-5 hours by 'D Train' or 2.5-3.5 hours by G train) Dalian - takes about 6 hours (express trains take 3 - 4 hours or 2 hours by 'D Train') Dandong - takes about 5 hours Guangzhou - takes about 30-48 hours Harbin - takes about 7 hours (3 hours by 'D Train') Jilin - takes about 6-9 hours (2½ hours by 'D Train) Shanghai - takes about 27-34 hours Tianjin - takes about 7 hours (or 5 hours by 'D Train') Qinhuangdao - takes about 5 hours (or 2½ hours by 'D Train') 3 Railway Station (沈阳火车站; Shěnyáng Huǒchēzhàn) (at Shengli Beijie (胜利北街; Shènglìběijiē), Line 2). Baihe via Songjianghe - takes about 9 hours Beijing - takes about 8-10 hours (4-5 hours by 'D Train') Changchun - takes about 4 hours (2 hours for 'D Train') Dalian - takes about 5 hours (2 hours by 'D Tr

Getting around

Sights in the old city, Shenhe District, can be walked between, but other areas such as those in Beiling or Dongling require transport. The Shenyang Metro has three lines. Line 1 runs east-west across the city (serving Shenyang rail station). Line 2 runs north-south (serving Shenyang North rail station). Line 9 runs in an L shape, from northwest to southwest to southeast. Line 10 runs in an L shape, from northwest to southwest to southeast. Shenyang has a comprehensive bus system, but it can be incomprehensible if you do not read Chinese. Make sure you pick up a city bus and area map at either train station. Very handy to help get around. Buses charge ¥1-2 and major bus lines congregate around the train stations. Bus 203 travels between the two train stations. There are plenty of taxis whose meters start at ¥8 for 3 km, then ¥1.8 per kilometer. Make sure you get a taxi in which the meter is mounted on the dashboard and easily visible from your seat instead of behind the gear shift - it is possible the driver may be pulling some sleight of hand to increase your fare.

See

Architecture and historical sites City walls, Shenyang Lu. The original city walls of Shenyang were destroyed in the 1950s. Some small sections have been reconstructed to give an impression of the former city. These remains consist of two gates, Huaiyuanmen and Fujinmen, at either end of Shenyang Lu. 1 Huaiyuanmen (怀远门). (updated Oct 2018) 2 Fujinmen (抚近门). (updated Oct 2018) 3 Former residence of Zhang Xueliang (Marshal Zhang's Mansion 张氏篩府), S Shuaifu Ln, Shenhe District (a short walk south from the Imperial Palace). This was the home of Zhang Zuolin and his son Zhang Xueliang during the end years of the Qing dynasty and the beginning of the Republic. Zhang became, with the fall of the Qing Emperor, the warlord in control of the northeast of China, and for a short time was proclaimed president of China. ¥50 as of December 2014 and also includes entries to Zhao Yi Di House next door and the Financial Museum. 4 Former Site of Shenyang Military Tribunal for the Trial of Japanese War Criminals (中国审判日本战犯法庭旧址陈列馆), 77 Heilongjiang Street, Huanggu District (皇姑区黑龙江街77号) (about 960 meters southeast of Zhongyiyaodaxue Station on lines 2 and 10 of the Shenyang Metro; bus nos. 106, 280, 281, 290 and 292 stop just outside the museum), ☏ +86 24 86841108. 09:00-17:00 (summer), 09:00-16:30 (winter), no entry in last 30 minutes, closed on Mondays. 36 Japanese war criminals were publicly tried and prosecuted at this site between June 9th and July 20th, 1956. The site is now a museum. Free. (updated Feb 2021) 5 Fuling (福陵), Dongling Rd, Dongling District (Buses 148 and 168 go here from the north station in about 1 hour). This is the first tomb of the Qing Dynasty in which Nu'erhachi, the founder of the dynasty, is laid to rest. It dates to the early 17th century and is constructed in traditional Manchu style along lines of Chinese fengshui. The area is listed, along with the other imperial tombs of the Ming and Qing dynasty, as a UNESCO world heritage site and a AAAA-rated tourist site on the Chinese national scale. It is one of only 3 imperial tombs north of the Great Wall of China. To the east of the tomb site a large area of park land forms Dongling Park. ¥30. 6 Mukden Palace (故宫 Gugong), Shenyang Rd, Shenhe District (Bus 222 or 213 can take you there for ¥1), ☏ +86 24 24843001. Former Imperial Palace - built in 1625 for Nurhachi, and inherited by his son Abahai (Huang Taiji), the Former Imperial Palace of Shenyang is one of two royal complexes extant in China today. The splendid and distinctly ethnic Manchu architectural style of the palace, which includes Daz

Do

Happy Family (兴隆大家庭 xīng lóng dà jiā ting). The Happy Family Malls (one in Tiexi and the one on Zhongjie) have indoor ice rinks with skates you can rent an occasional specials on teachers. Public Bathhouses (洗澡). Going to wash up at a bathhouse is an experience highly recommended by Shenyang locals. Entrance fees vary from ¥50–150 which usually cover showers, shower supplies, bathtubs, and saunas. You can also add extra services like spa treatment or massages. Bathhouses can be found around the city by searching for Tang Quan (汤泉). Yun Qi Tang Quan (元气汤泉) is clean and has great service. (updated Jul 2023) Shenyang Huangsi Temple Fair, No. 206, Huangsi Road, Heping District. Shenyang Shisheng Temple is also known as Huangsi. Founded in 1636 (the first year of Chongde in the Qing Dynasty), it is a large-scale and early Lama temple in Shenyang. In Shenyang, as long as the temple fair is mentioned, the first reaction of most Shenyang people is Huangsi Temple Fair. To this day, Shenyang holds Huangsi Temple Fair every year. During the temple fair, there are colorful performances and a variety of delicacies. (updated Dec 2018)

Winter sports There are three ski resort areas within Shenyang prefecture. Northeast Asia Ski Resort (东北亚滑雪场 Dongbeiya Huaxue Chang), Magang, Xingchengzi District (28 km /17 mi outside of Shenyang). With 700,000 m² of skiing area, this is the biggest ski resort. Daytime skiing ¥135 for two hours and night skiing is ¥125. Discounts for groups of 15 or more are available.. Baiqingzhai Ski Field (白清寨滑雪场), Sujiatun District (40 km/25 mi out). The site includes a freestyle aerial skiing and off-piste areas. Total area is 530,000 m². Daytime skiing ¥135 for two hours and night skiing is ¥120. Discounts for groups of 15 or more are available.. Qipanshan Ice and Snow World (棋盘山冰雪大世界) (20 km outside, take bus 330), ☏ +86 24 88050020, +86 24 22723117, fax: +86 24 22734066. 09:00-22:00 daily, winter only. Within Qipanshan Scenic Area and covering an area of 500,000 m². Daytime skiing ¥150 for two hours and night skiing is ¥130. Discounts for groups of 15 or more are available.

Buy

Major shopping areas Shenyang has four main shopping areas.

1 Zhong Jie (中街). It has shops selling cell phones, computers, electronic equipment or the latest fashions and accessories. Box/department stores are within walking distance of Zhong Jie as well as the north train station. There are many western brands here, including cafes and restaurants. The Forum 66 Mall is well-travelled and full of international food and clothing brands, and its relatively empty companion, the Palace 66, is now open at 市府广场站 Shifu Guangchang station on the 2 line. 2 Taiyuan Jie (太原街) (Within walking distance of the Shenyang Railway Statio). This area has an English language bookstore and main post office nearby, as well as food, clothing from international brands, and electronics. Don't miss the underground shopping mall under the street. Box stores common throughout China can be found here. Cheap prescription glasses and sunglasses can be found on south Taiyuan street in the 赛隆广场 Sailong Mall. Don't forget to bargain! 3 Beishichang (北市场) (within walking distance from the north train station). One of the oldest shopping areas in Shenyang. There is an important Lama temple (Huang Shi, founded in 1636), which was worshiped by all the Manchu emperors during their regular trips to Shenyang. 4 West Tower Street (西塔街). was built in the fifth year of Chongde (1640) and completed in the second year of Shunzhi. Emperor Qianlong once wrote plaques for the four temples and hung them on the main halls of the four temples. The plaque of Yanshou Temple is "金粟祥光". Except for the different names and the Buddha statues enshrined, the four towers and four temples have almost the same architectural scale and shape. The Xita area is the largest Korean gathering area in the three northeastern provinces except for the Korean autonomous prefectures and counties, integrating the essence of Korean national culture. Xita Commercial Street has a long history of more than 120 years and has nurtured a unique ethnic style. On both sides of the main axis of Xita Street, a leisure and cultural industry belt with strong Korean characteristics and Korean style has been formed. (updated Dec 2018)

Other stores 5 Wu'ai Market (五爱). The biggest wholesale market in the northeast of China, with 300,000 customers per day and annual turnover of more than ¥2 billion. It covers an area of 139,000 m² with multiple massive buildings connected by bridges and stairways. Products include dresses, shoes, caps, groceries, knitted goods, cloth materials, boxes, home appliances, gifts, daily sundry goods, beauty and

Eat

Liaoning is home to Liaocai (辽菜), a distinctive cuisine named after the area. Liaocai tends to be strong in flavour with plenty of garlic, ginger and other spices but not hot. Shenyang has a large Korean and Mongolian population, who operate a lot of barbecue stands on the street corners of the city. Some of the city's best types of cuisine include 火锅 hot pot, 麻辣烫 mala tang, or spicy pay-by-weight soup, and 串儿 chuan'r barbeque. There are many Muslim hand-pulled noodle places, and also a number of very good Korean restaurants. All of Shenyang's top hotels feature fancy restaurants serving Cantonese, Japanese and Western food. At least two different places offering Mexican specials. There are also some decent noodle shops, as well as the national chain California Beef Noodle, on some of the small roads near the train station.

Fast food and coffee shops are plentiful. The imported, western style food tends to be at the higher end of the price market. By going after local cuisine you will save money. One of the absolute best places to try cheap and savoury local foods is at the 彩电塔 Cai Dian Ta night market near the Liaoning Radio Tower, located just west of the Kempinski hotel and 青年公园 Qingnian Gongyuan Station. This market is full of cheap barbeque 串儿 chuan'r, with selections as various as chicken necks, pig feet, or tofu rolls. There are also various noodle dishes, potato dishes, soft-serve ice cream and fruit jelly desserts, and a Liaoning starch specialty known as 闷子 Menzi. It stretches across several streets, and is generally open from the end of March until late October as crowds die down over the winter months.

Lao Bian Jiaozi Restaurant 老边饺子, No.208 Zhong Jie, Shenhe District (Zhongjie Metro Station B1 Exit; next to the Imperial Palace). 10:00-20:00. Dumplings restaurant. Lao Bian Jiaozi, founded in 1829, is one of the most famous dumpling restaurants.Guinness World Records 2000 for the World's Oldest Dumpling Restaurant.

BaoFaYuan 宝发园, No.1 Tianyuan, Xiaoshizi Street, Dadong District, Shenyang 沈阳市大东区小什字街天源巷1号 (Dong Zhong Jie Metro Line 1 A exit, across the street), ☏ +86 24 24314173. Famous for its 四绝 (Four Outstanding). While locals might not remember the name "BaFaYuan", everyone knows "Four Outstanding" given the name was giving by Zhang Xueliang. ¥60/person. Cafe Lido (Sheraton Shenyang Lido Hotel), Qingnian St. It is recognized as being the best Western food in Shenyang. Serving Australian beef, mashed potatoes Irish style, Guinness meat pies, fresh fish, salads and the tastiest pastries in town. Special on Friday's Seafood Night, small

Drink & nightlife

Buddha Bar and Restaurant, Xi Bin He Lu 58 (next to the Kempinski hotel, Qing Nian Gong Yuan subway station exit A), ☏ +86 13998138144 (English), [email protected]. 17:30-02:00 daily. Cocktail and wine bar with large selection of imported beers, Also serves sushi. Party 98 -2 (pai dui er), Shi San Wei Road (十三纬路 near Heidis and the U.S. Embassy, walking distance to the Kempinsky Hotel). One of the most popular clubs for foreigners. The first floor plays HipHop and R&B (mainly foreigners), the second floor (mainly Chinese) has singers and electronic music. Black Sheep (hei yang xi can ting), Sanjing Jie and Shisanwei Lu (across the street from Party 98). Very popular with expats. A bar and pub with frequent social events. (updated Nov 2020) Pure Colours (米亚本色 mi ya ben si), 6-328 Fengtian Street (奉天街), ☏ +86 24-24125678. The second popular club for foreigners and rich Chinese. They have an informal special for foreigners: buy one get two (for longdrinks only). Don't Tell Mama (别告诉妈妈 bié gàosu mā ma), Xita St (西塔街), in Korea town. Packed even on weeknights, this large Chinese-style club offers a constant cabaret-style variety show with over-the-top dance acts and live singing. One highlight is the male performers seem compelled to chug any quantity of beer bought for them, up to two-liter pitchers, in one go, without using their hands. Sunny's Night Club. A popular spot for foreigners but staff and service are low quality. Party 98 (98 俱乐部 - 98 jù lè bù), Xita St (西塔街), in Korea town. Noisy Chinese music, close to the 24/24h barbecue restaurants. Club 97 (97号会所), No 97 Zhongshan Lu, 100 m W of Zhongshan Sq and its Mao statue (中山路97号，中山广场西100米), ☏ +86 24 2341 9997. A shiny, trendy club with an outdoor patio frequented by expats, mostly Russian ones. Not too crappy music, great food before 23:00, a bit pricey though. Sophie's World Bar (苏菲的世界酒吧), Er Jing St, Bawei Rd (二经街 八伟路, ☏ +86 24 2282 6691. The oldest foreigner bar in town is like an institution for both expats and locals. Cheap alcohol, darts, soccer games on TV. Shamrock Irish Pub, 134/11 Changjiang Street (located near Liao Da Old University at Appreciate Europe), ☏ +86 24 86085856. Serving probably the best draught Guinness in Shenyang and more in a clean, laid-back pub. They also have a great selection of foods including Irish stew and onion rings. Great place to go for a pint and a meal and of course the craic. Call for directions. Open from 16:00 till late 7 days a week. Green Mile, No. 3-1 Bei San Jing Jie (just west of Government Square, and just southeast of No

Sleep

Budget Shenyang Zhijia Qingnian Hotel (沈阳致家青年旅馆), 13 Shenyang Rd, ☏ +86 24 23833033, fax: +86 24 23837389. This small hotel is not spectacular, but offers cheap singles (or, if you need "a short rest" will let a room to you for fours hours for ¥30). The main attraction is the location, just north of Huaiyuan Gate, it is on an old street with attractive architecture, just one block west of the imperial palace.

Mid-range Eletel (沈阳璟星大酒店), 235 Zhong St (set back from the main road in a pedestrianized area), ☏ +86 24 31307777. The rooms are designed in an ultra modern style that some will like and others will hate. The location is on a main shopping street within walking distance of several attractions such as the Imperial Palace. ¥267. Grand Century Hotel (沈阳世纪国际大酒店), 88-2 Zhonghua Rd, Heping District (Access to the hotel is round the back of the shopping mall, off of the main road), ☏ +86 24 23402888, fax: +86 24 23410099. A decorated, high quality hotel at an affordable price. Located in the centre of the shopping area near to the south train station. Rooms in the upper stories provide good views across the city. Wireless internet is available in rooms. ¥349. Liaoning Taishan Hotel, 22 Taishan Rd, Huanggu District, ☏ +86 24 86809888, fax: +86 24 86806290. Railway Hotel (沈阳瑞心东方酒店（原铁道新东方饭店）), 102 Beizhan Lu (at North Train Stn), ☏ +86 24 62231058, fax: +86 24 62232888. Somerset Heping Shenyang, No 80 Taiyuan North Street, Heping district, ☏ +86 24 2397 5555, [email protected]. The residence offers 270 fully-furnished serviced apartments ranging from one-bedroom deluxe to three-bedroom executive. Each apartment is equipped with broadband internet access, a private IDD telephone with voicemail facility and business support services. (updated Sep 2017) 1 Mt. Chilbo Hotel (七宝山饭店), 和平区十一纬路79-81号, ☏ +86 62266789-8007. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. A four-star hotel downtown, this hotel is distinguished by its ownership by the North Korean government. TVs receive North Korean channels, and the hotel lobby features a small store and the Shenyang Air Koryo ticketing office. Good internet. ¥368. (updated Dec 2015)

Splurge Gloria Plaza Hotel, 32 Yingbin St, Shenhe District, ☏ +86 24 22528855, fax: +86 24 22528533. Traders Hotel, 68 Zhonghua Rd, Heping District, ☏ +86 24 2341 2288, fax: +86 24 2341 1988. A brand of Shangri-La, but one level down from the full-service Shangri-La. Wonhurg International Hotel, 35 Kunshan Zhong Rd, Huanggu District, ☏ +86 24 86285555, fax: +86 24 86843100. Premier business hotel with deluxe gu

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