Selçuk

Understand

An unremarkable mound 2 km south indicates settlement hereabouts from 7000 BC, the very oldest of towns. Ancient Ephesus was a port on the coast, above a wetland estuary, but the river continually shifted its course and silted up so the city struggled to retain its sea access, vital to its prosperity. The wetland was also none too good for human health or for building on, and from about 290 AD Ephesus migrated 3 km west and downstream. There it was embellished in the Roman era into the remarkable place that draws tourists to this day. It was also a major religious centre, with an early Christian population. The new Ephesus in turn fell into ruin as the coast continued to retreat - the sea is now 15 km away at the resort of Kuşadası. A backwater settlement continued, as there was a fertile hinterland with overland routes. From the 10th century the area fell under the control of the Selçuk Turkish dynasty, from which the modern town takes its name. They were supplanted in the 14th by the Ottomans. The town never became large or industrial so many of its antiquities were preserved.

Getting there

By plane The nearest commercial airport is Izmir Adnan Menderes (ADB IATA), which has daily flights from Istanbul and Ankara, and occasionally from Europe. It's 55 km north of Selçuk, and both are on the IZBAN suburban railway so you don't have to travel into central Izmir and out again - see below. The IZBAN railway extension, completed in 2017, took away most of the traffic from the local dolmuşes and airport shuttles, so these are nowadays less frequent.

By train Selçuk is the south terminus of IZBAN the Izmir suburban railway. The Green Line runs north-south from Aliağa (for Bergama), Hatundre (for Foça), downtown Izmir (where Hilal is the main interchange), Adnan Menderes Airport, and Tepeköy where you change to the Southern Extension train every 90 min to Selçuk. The trip from downtown is about an hour. Consider buying an İzmirim Kart. A TCDD regional train (look for bölgesel) runs six times a day from Izmir Basmane via the airport and Tepeköy, taking 90 min to Selçuk and continuing via Çamlık, Aydın and a dozen other places to Denizli (another 3 hr, for Pamukkale). The Göller Express also calls at Selçuk on the way between Isparta and Izmir, but in the early hours of the morning.

1 Selçuk railway station (Selçuk Tren İstasyonu), Abuhayat Cd. (updated Jul 2023)

By bus Buses run six times a day direct from Istanbul Esenler, taking 8-9 hours via Izmir, for a fare in 2022 of 520 TL. Operators are Pamukkale and Flixbus. Or you may find it more convenient to change in Izmir, which has frequent buses round the clock from Istanbul, Ankara and elsewhere. Frequent dolmuşes from Izmir and buses from Pamukkale pass through town.

2 Selçuk bus station (Selçuk Otogarı) (Centrally located, junction of roads D550 and D515.). (updated Jul 2023)

Getting around

Dolmuşes towards Kuşadası pass the lower gate of Ephesus. To reach the House of Mary look for a tour, else you may need to take a taxi. Rented motorbikes or scooters can be a fun way to explore the area around Selçuk. Or cycle, but Şirince and the House of Mary are up in the hills. ESHOT Bus 770 runs from Selçuk via Belevi (for Goat Castle) to Torbalı (for Izban) M-F hourly and Sa Su every 2 hours. It's cashless so you need an Izmirim Kart.

See

In town 1 Ephesus Archaeological Museum, Uğur Mumcu Sevgi 26, ☏ +90 232 892 6010, [email protected]. Daily 08:00-17:30. An excellent collection of ancient statues, pottery, glass, sarcophagi and coins found around Ephesus. Also displayed is the cult of the Anatolian mother goddess in her guises from Kybele to poly-breasted Artemis. Adult 10€. (updated Dec 2025) 2 Temple of Artemis, once renowned as one of the "Seven Wonders" of the ancient world, is just a reconstructed solitary column, free to access. This stood in "Temple E", the fifth known structure, built 350-250 BC on a difficult swampy site, and the high water table has impeded excavation. Artemis was the Grecian deity known as Diana to the Romans, presiding over virginity, fertility, childbirth, the moon and hunting, a combination all the more remarkable given the size of her noisy entourage. She gives her name to the Artemis project to land a crewed spacecraft at the moon's south pole in 2024. 3 Byzantine Citadel and St John Basilica, St Jean Cd (enter from south by the Aqueduct), ☏ +90 2328926010, [email protected]. Daily 08:00-18:00. Ayasuluk hill was the original site of Ephesus. The fortifications you now see were built in the 7th century against Arab raids, and the citadel continued in use until the entire site was wrecked by the Mongols under Tamerlane in 1402 AD. The basilica is older, completed in 565 AD over the site of a chapel and grave of St John the Apostle. He is believed to have died in Ephesus towards 100 AD: he wrote three New Testament Epistles and is traditionally credited as the author of St John's Gospel. (He isn't the author of Revelation, by the later St John of Patmos.) The site was partly reconstructed in the 21st century. Adult 6€. (updated Dec 2025) The aqueduct ruins are Byzantine and stand 15 m tall, coursing west from the railway station towards Ayasuluk hill. They're crowned with storks' nests and floodlit at night. 4 İsa Bey Mosque, St Jean Cd. Daily 09:30-21:

Do

Beach: Pamucak is closest, the most northerly of the Kuşadası resort strip. Follow D515 west, and continue west when the highway turns sharply south. Skydive: Efes centre and airfield are next to Ephesus north gate. The usual jump for a beginner is a tandem freefall coupled to an instructor, so minimum training, fitness and skill are needed. Aqua Fantasy Aquapark Hotel & Spa, Pamucak, Oteller Bölgesi, ☏ +902328508500, toll-free: 4443251Country code missing, [email protected]. An aquatic park, hotel and spa in the same venue. (updated Apr 2026)

Buy

Lots of small supermarkets, Migros is the main chain. They're mostly open daily 08:00-22:00. Carpet shops: half a dozen cluster near the museum, including Lonca, Alibaba's, Blacksheep and Can Carpet.

Eat

West of the railway station is the main concentration, with Nur, Ejder (below), Okumus Mercan, Köşem, Efes, Köylum, Seçkin Firuze, Tat Cafe, Eski Ev, Dönercim Ümit, Pınar Pide & Çöp Şiş and Gaziantep Kebab Salonu. Ejder Restaurant, Cengiz Topel Cd 9 (50 m west of railway station), ☏ +90 232 892 3296, [email protected]. Daily 12:00-00:00. Consistently good reviews for this friendly place, wide menu choice with vegetarian options. (updated Sep 2022) West of Atatürk Cd near the museum are Ali Baba & Mehmet Kebab House (below), Agora, Selçuk Pidecisi, Amazon Cafe Bistro and Ayasoluk Hotel Restaurant. Mehmet and Ali Baba Kebab House, 1047th Sk 4 (next to museum), ☏ +90 232 892 3872. Daily 09:00-22:30. Cheap, big portions and tasty kebabs and desserts. They serve beer. (updated Sep 2022) Efes Restaurant, 1006 Sk 13 (by the aqueducts straight from the train station), ☏ +90 538 200 2511. M-Sa 09:00-00:00, Su 12:00-00: