Samarkand

Understand

The name "Samarkand" is said to derive from words meaning "stone fort", but there are about as many other names and claimed origins as there were varieties of goods traded in its bazaars - some of them of dubious value, far from being genuine silk. Stone fort? - it was sun-baked mud, adobe as it's called in the west, and whoever reckoned it would repel invaders was sold a dud. This area has been inhabited for millennia, but the first entity that could be called a town was about the 8th century BC. It grew into a citadel protected by stout mud-brick walls on the site now known as Afrosiab (though that name is relatively modern). Not stout enough however, as it was conquered again and again, notably by Alexander the Great in 329 BCE bringing in a Hellenistic period, by the Sogdians in the 7th century AD, and by the Arabs in the 8th who made it a great centre of Islamic culture. Samarkand was destroyed by the Mongol ruler Genghis Khan in 1220, but flourished again when Timur-i-Leng (known as Tamerlane in the West) adorned it as the capital of his empire from 1369. Its glory days followed as a trade centre on the Silk Road, the great plexus of overland trading routes between China and the Mediterranean region, and the magnificent buildings you come here to see were mostly erected in that heyday. That empire weakened, and nomadic Uzbeks (Shaybanids) took Samarkand in 1500. Over the next century the entire Silk Road declined, when western merchants became able to sail to and from China and no longer risked the perils and hardships of the overland route. In 1784 the emirate of Bukhara conquered it, and by this time western nations were trying to muscle in on the orient. Britain got the upper hand by sea, gaining India, while tsarist Russia tightened its grip inland; neither could ever subdue Afghanistan. Russia captured Samarkand in 1868, bringing railways, industry and their language and culture. Under communism from 1924, Samarkand was the capital of the Uzbek Soviet Socialist Republic, until that role passed to Tashkent in 1930. Stalin was paranoid that the peoples of Central Asia would rebel and slay him, as they would have, given half a chance. His grand scheme was to create five Soviet Socialist Republics cutting across ethnic and linguistic boundaries, so they would feud against each other and not unite against him. Thus the large chunk of Tajik territory containing Samarkand and Bukhara, and speaking a language akin to Persian, was assigned to Uzbekistan, where the majority spoke a language akin to Turkish. And it worked: those cockamamie borders sta

Getting there

By plane 1 Samarkand Airport (SKD IATA), ☏ +998 66 232 3659. This has daily flights from Moscow (several airports), Saint Petersburg, Kazan and Sochi, less often from Almaty, Istanbul and Abu Dhabi. Uzbekistan Airways are the main carrier. Domestic flights have withered since the trains improved, but twice a week the flight between Nukus and Tashkent calls here. You can also fly with Centrum Air to Urgench (Khiva). The airport was rebuilt in 2021 so it's clean and spacious. It's only 6 km north of city centre and taxis are inexpensive, i.e. 22,000 so‘m (2025). Buses M1, 31 and 52 run from Arrivals hourly to the railway station. (updated Dec 2024)

By train Four trains a day run from Tashkent Central, taking about four hours - quickest is the "Afrosiob". Two more run from Tashkent Janubiy (South), less convenient for most travellers. Trains continue west to Navoi, Bukhara (2½ hr), Alat on the Turkmenistan border, Urgench, Khiva, Nukus and Kungrad, and south to Qarshi and Termez on the Afghan border. One train per week is from Volgograd (with connections from Moscow and St Petersburg), via Atyrau in Kazakhstan, then Kungrad, Nukus, Urgench, Bukhara and Navoi, continuing from Samarkand to Tashkent. These trains may sell out, see Uzbekistan#Get in for how to book.

2 Samarkand Railway Station (Вокзал Самарканд) is clean and modern. It's 5 km northwest of city centre, take the tram or marshrutka as below, or a taxi (price in the night is US$10-15 (2025)). The station doesn't have much retail, but there's a shopping centre and market 200 m south at the corner of Berumi and Rudakhi, open daily 05:00-22:00. In Uzbek, Tajik and Russian, it is called "vokzal".

By road Samarkand is 290 km southwest of Tashkent, about four hours to drive; buses and shared taxis leave from Sobir Rahimov bus station. Follow M39 via Jizzah: this crosses a corner of Kazakhstan, which is treated as no-man's-land with no passport checks but keep yours handy. From Bukhara is 270 km by M37.

3 Samarkand Central Bus and Taxi Station (Route M37). Opened in 2025, a modern large station from which you can take a taxi or bus to Tashkent, Bukhara, Khiva, Shahrisabz, Jizzakh, and to neighboring countries such as Kazakhstan (Almaty, Shymkent, Turkestan and others), Kyrgyzstan (Issyk Kul) and Russia. Buses do not go to Tajikistan due to the high altitude. (updated Dec 2025) 4 Ulughbek Taxi and Bus Station (Route M37, very close to Mirzo Ilughbek Observatory). From this station, you can take a taxi or a bus to Tashkent and Jizzakh. When you arrive at this place, many drivers will come runnin

Getting around

The main sights of Samarkand are in two nearby clusters: Gur-i Amir and the Registan, and Bibi-Khanym Mosque, Shah-i Zinda, and Afrosiyab. It's simplest to walk between all of these. Take a bus or taxi for sights further out, such as Ulugh-Beg Observatory 2 km beyond Afrosiyab. There are two tram lines from the railway station. T2 is the one you want, heading southeast to Siyob Bazaar about 1 km north of the Registan. T1 goes south to Sartepa and is always about 5 km west of the main sights. Yellow taxis can be taken all over. 5000 som is a standard fare pretty much anywhere in the city, add 2000 for the outskirts. Yandex Taxi app works well in the city center and will offer you a variety of prices. A local SIM card is recommended, as drivers may phone you if they can't find you. Marshrukas - white city minibuses - are tired, wheezy and crowded. 2000 som is a standard fare in 2024.

See

1 Registan, ☏ +998 66 235 7052. Daily Apr-Oct 08:00-23:00, Nov-Mar 09:00-20:00. This magnificent square is the defining image, not only of Samarkand but of the whole Silk Road. It became the city's main square from the 15th century, Timurid times, after Afrosiab was abandoned. It's lined by three madrasahs, all with grand portals and richly adorned. Ulugbek on the west side is the oldest madrasah, from 1417; its upper floor has been lost. Shirdor facing it on the east side was built from 1619; "Shir" means tiger, from the motif on its portal. Tilya-Kori on the north side was built from 1646 and was also the grand mosque; the name means "gilded". Each madrasah is set around a courtyard, with student lodgings and classrooms. Adult 100,000 som. (updated Feb 2026) Shaybanid Mausoleum is in the small park next to Tilya-Kori Madrasah, free to access. Muhammad Shaybani (1451-1510) ousted the Timurids from Samarkand and established an Uzbek proto-state, but it did not outlast his death in battle. 2 Bibi-Khanym Mosque, Tashkent Road. Daily 09:00-20:00. Named after the principal wife of Timur, this was erected after his capture of Delhi in 1399. But design was muddled and construction rushed, so for the next 150 years it had to be patched and mended as bits fell off, until it was given up as a lost cause. It actually stood for another 200 years before collapsing in 1897. It was rebuilt from 1974. Adult 75,000 som, child 30,000 som. (updated Feb 2026) Bibi-Khanym Mausoleum opposite the mosque is the resting place of Saray Mulk Khanym (1341-1408). She had been a member of the harem of Amir Husayn of Balkh, but Timur defeated and slew him, and took over the harem. Same hours and prices as the mosque, which most visitors reckon is not worth the money and you see enough from outside. Siyob Bazaar is just north of the mosque, see Buy. Use the footbridge to cross Shah-i-Zinda to reach Khazrat Khizr. 3 Khazrat-Khizr Mosque, Tashkent Road. Daily 08:00-18:00. This was built from 1855 over much earlier foundations: first was a Zoroastrian temple, then a mosque built in 712 but destroyed in Genghis Khan's invasion of 1220. Since 2018 it's also held the mausoleum of Islam Karimov (1938-2016), First President of Uzbekistan. Free. (updated Sep 2024) 4 Shah-i-Zinda Ensemble. Daily 07:00-22:00. Necropolis ranged over a small hill south of Afrosiab, named for the cousin of the Prophet Muhammad. The best structures are 14th-16th century, such as the Kusam-ibn-Abbas complex, the Turkan Ago Mausoleum, and Kazi Zade Rumi mausoleum. It remained in use into the 19th century. It can feel

Do

1 Eternal City and Eternity Square, Route M39. Opened in 2022, a very beautiful tourist complex near a large Samarkand Rowing Canal, about 10 km east of the historical center of Samarkand. The Eternal City is an island with buildings built in an authentic style, including shopping pavilions and restaurants. The Eternity Square features a stage in the shape of Ulughbek's Observatory, as well as fast food outlets and amusement rides. Visitors can also enjoy boating and gondola rides on the canal. Additionally, there is a Quran Museum located within the complex. the place is really very instagrammable. There are several five-star skyscraper hotels around the complex, which are part of the Silk Road Samarkand tourist complex. (updated Dec 2025) 2 Afrasiyab. If you don't mind dust and love archaeology, then in the historical center of Samarkand, there are the ruins of ancient Samarkand, now called Afrasiyab. The territory covers 200 hectares, and is located behind the Shahi Zinda Complex and the Hazret Khizr Mosque, behind the Jewish Cemetery. Here you can see a large number of excavations of different depths, and touch history. In the settlement, you can enter from any convenient part. The entrance is free and not controlled by anyone. But keep in mind that Afrasiyab is now in the form of faceless hills with huge layers of cultural layer, and there may be street dogs in the depths, and after sunset, there are snakes and scorpions. From the harmless, you will see shepherds with herds of sheep and cows, and only turtles and lizards. (updated Dec 2025) 3 Football, Mirzo Ulughbek Street, 54. The main football club in Samarkand is Dinamo Samarkand, which participates in the Uzbekistan Super League (the highest level of the country's leagues). The season runs from March to November. You can find the match schedule on the official website of the Uzbekistan PFL. Matches are played in the evening and tickets for matches are affordable. The stadium is located near the historical center of the city, and there is a so-called "Pub Street" (officialy Davlatabad Street) near the stadium, as well as the Samarkand Brewery, where you can try local (and non-local) beers and enjoy snacks. Local fans are not aggressive and are friendly to foreigners. (updated Dec 2025) 4 Samarkand Regional Anton Chekhov Russian Drama Theater, Buyuk Ipak Yuli Street, 45. If you understand Russian, there is an Anton Chekhov Russian Drama Theatre in the Soviet part (West) of Samarkand, where performances are entirely in Russian. Many of the actors and actresses are ethnic Slavs (mostly Russians), s

Buy

There are lots of ATMs ("bankomats") in city centre, accepting most western credit cards. The mark-up for drawing cash is modest, say 1.5%, but your bank will pile on extra. Currency can be exchanged in banks, currency exchange service in the airport, and with men at the northern entrance to Siyob Bazaar (ask around).

1 Samarkand Silk Carpets and Craft Factory, Jami Street, 12A. A well-known place in Samarkand where you can see firsthand how handmade silk and wool carpets are woven in large quantities, as well as buy them. The place has large rooms where, in addition to handmade carpets, other silk products (such as scarves and the like) are also sold. You can bargain. It is within walking distance (south-east) of the Shahi Zinda Memorial Complex and the Jewish Quarter (to the east of it). (updated Dec 2025) 2 Art&Antique Shop "Mubarak" by Mr. Haydar, Abu Lays Samarqandiy Street, 61/63 (former Khudzhum Street). A very colorful antique shop in the depths of Samarkand's Jewish Quarter. It is located in a former Jewish traditional house and is filled with old items (clothes, badges, figurines, dishes, and more). You can bargain. The owner is a friendly elderly man who speaks very little English but knows Russian. Opposite the shop is a small neighborhood mosque with a low, detached minaret. The store is easier to find if you enter the neighborhood through pedestrian Islam Karimov Street. (updated Dec 2025) 3 Siyab Grand Bazaar, Imam Al Bukhari Street and Islam Karimov Street. One of the most famous bazaars in Uzbekistan, and the largest bazaar in Samarkand, is located in the historical center of Samarkand, near the popular tourist pedestrian Islam Karimov Street, and the Bibi Khanum Grand Mosque. This bazaar is approximately 800 years old. Here, you can bargain for a wide range of souvenirs and traditional clothing, as well as national sweets, dried fruits, and nuts, fresh vegetables and fruits, food products, and even everyday clothing. The bazaar is divided into several themed sections. The bazaar is open from Tuesday to Sunday (it is closed on Mondays), from 08:00 to 19:00. (updated Dec 2025) 4 Yangi Bazaar, Usta Umar Juraqulov Street. A very large clothing bazaar to the east of the historical center of Samarkand, within walking distance of the Shahi Zinda Complex and the Jewish Quarter. There are several shopping malls and many large clothing and appliance stores around the bazaar. The bazaar is open every day (except Monday) from morning to evening. You can also bargain here. There are a lot of clothes and accessories of different quality and price. T

Eat

Plov is the staple dish, rice stewed with meat and veg. The local version uses more oil and yellow carrots than elsewhere, sometimes enlivened by an otherwise useless horse. Samarkand Non, the local bread, is almost a bowl or cake.

Budget 1 Historic, Suzangaron, ☏ +998 98 573 2111. Daily 08:00-22:00. Great local restaurant in a side street only a few meters from the Registan. They offer good shashlik and other Uzbek food, plus beer and vodka. (updated Nov 2024) 2 Cafe Magistr, 30/45 Buston Saroy, ☏ +998 66 250 1551. M-Sa 08:00-23:00, Su 12:00-23:00. Slick central place with veggie choices, staff speak good English. (updated Nov 2024) Old City Restaurant, Abdurakhmon Jomiy (opposite Zarafshon Parkside Hotel), ☏ +998 93 346 8020. Daily 10:00-23:00. Good choice for trad Uzbek cuisine. (updated Sep 2024) 3 Joni Osh (Джони Ош), Lochin Ko'chasi 3A, ☏ +998 97 930 00 02. Opens 11:00; closes when they run out of Plov, usually before 14:00. Reputedly the best plov in Samarkand. Get there early before they run out! 70,000 som for a "half" portion, salad, bread and drink. (updated Jul 2026)

Mid-range 4 Karim Bek, Gagarin 194, ☏ +998 66 237 7739. Hearty portions of Uzbek specialties. (updated Nov 2024) Istiqlol, Amir Temur 157 (next to Karim Bek), ☏ +998 90 505 8111. Daily 06:00-23:00. Family-friendly place serving trad dishes. (updated Nov 2024) 5 Merci, Orzi Makhmudov 14, ☏ +998 95 508 0002. Daily 08:00-23:00. This gets mixed reviews. (updated Nov 2024)

Drink & nightlife

Bars in city centre include Sam Craft outside Registan, Blues Bar on Amir Temur St, Green Bear at Bazarova 11, and Botchka nearby.

Sleep

Budget Old Station Hotel (100 m east of station), ☏ +998 95 412 7575. Small modern hotel right by the railway station. B&B double $50. (updated Sep 2024) Rayyan Hotel, Navoi St (100 m south of station), ☏ +998 99 271 0086. Clean modern chain hotel very near the railway station. B&B double $50. (updated Sep 2024) Registan Hostel, Registan 38 (southwest side of Registan), ☏ +998 94 675 5701. Friendly comfy hostel in a great central spot. Dorm $25 ppn. (updated Sep 2024) Hostel Nabi next door gets poor reviews. 1 Bahodir Hotel, Mullokandov 134 (200 m northeast of Registan), ☏ +998 93 340 2817. Backpacker place around a courtyard, with dorm and private rooms. Friendly and mostly clean, very central. B&B double $40. (updated Sep 2024) Sandhill Hotel is within the same building at Mullokandov 136. 2 Jahongir Hotel, Chirokchi 4 (500 m south of Registan), ☏ +998 91 555 0808. Comfortable modern rooms near the historic centre. B&B double US$50. (updated Sep 2024) Jahongir Premium Hotel is close by at Chirokchi 11. 3 Uyut Hotel, Tursunova 67 (1 km northwest of Registan), ☏ +998 88 395 3312. Friendly small B&B in a quiet neighbourhood. B&B double US$50. (updated Sep 2024) 4 Zarafshon Parkside Hotel, Abdurakhmon Jomiy 65 (1.5 km southeast of Registan), ☏ +998 55 703 0003. Slick modern hotel by the park. B&B double US$150. (updated Sep 2024) 5 Amir Hostel, Abdurakhmon Jomiy 45 (1.5 km west of Registan), ☏ +998 97 916 8899. Basic but clean, friendly and in good repair. Dorm $30. (updated Sep 2024) Mehmonxona Hostel, Registan street 38A, ☏ +998 93 359 59 11, +998 93 335 98 09, +998 98 273 89 92. Inexpensive and central hostel with friendly staff that speaks Russian. The place also hosts Pilav center (Osh markazi) where you can eat osh. No breakfast at the hostel, but other side of the street is a little bar. Dorm bed 150,000 soʻm. (updated Jan 2026) Mahalla Hostel (Mahalla Old City), Qush Xovuz Ko‘chasi 44 (after passing Registan on Registan street, turn left (north) and go straight about 600 m (keep left when needed)). Nice place and host. Breakfast is 70,000 so‘m extra, but good. Double US$25. (updated Feb 2026)

Mid-range 6 Konstantin Plaza, Ibn Kholdun 7 (1 km south of railway station), ☏ +998 78 210 0100. Clean and comfy, good service. B&B double US$150. (updated Sep 2024) 7 Mövenpick Hotel, Shokhrukh 53, ☏ +998 55 703 0808. Big glassy place, mostly good reviews, but cleanliness and service erratic for this price band. B&B double US$200. (updated Sep 2024) Hotel Malika Prime, Universitetskiy Blvd Y, Okhunboboyev St (opposite Mövenpick), ☏ +998 66 239 1333

Go next

Shakhrisabz 100 km south has the tomb intended for Timur, but he never reached it. So whose are the two bodies interred there? Bukhara 270 km west is a must-see for its old town grouped around hauz, ancient communal pools. Tashkent the capital is 310 km northeast. It's modern but with many mausoleums, museums and national monuments. Panjakent 60 km east is the first town you come to across the border in Tajikistan. Most of its antiquities have ended up in museums in Dushanbe the capital, but you can visit remains of 5,500 years old (one of the oldest in Asia) Sarazm settlement and beautiful Fann mountains. You can find a taxi to the border from the center for 80,000-100,000 so‘m (bargain hard) or go to Kaftarkhona Station first and get a minivan from there. At the border you have to walk and on the side of Tajikistan find another taxi that gets you to Panjakent. You can change money at the border. Khiva has compact and charming old town. You can go there by train or bus via Bukhara, but a nice and inexpensive alternative is to fly to Urgench (i.e. with Centrum Air for about 330,000 som in 1.5 hours).