Salvador

Understand

It is the biggest city in the Northeast region, and was the first capital of Brazil.

History Founded in 1549 by the Portuguese, Salvador was the capital in the heyday of the slave trade. The legacy is found in its large Afro-Brazilian population, and the resulting culture in many ways outshines the rest of Brazil; in music, many of the greatest names from the mid-20th century to the present hail from Salvador, such as Dorival Caymmi, Gilberto Gil, and Caetano Veloso. In literature, the late Jorge Amado was also from the region. It's a vibrant, exciting city, and its people are quite friendly.

Orientation Salvador is on a peninsula on the north-east coast of Brazil which shields the large Baía de Todos os Santos ("All Saints Bay") from the Atlantic Ocean. The city is the third largest in Brazil, sprawling for dozens of kilometres inland from the coast. Most visitors head for the coastal neighbourhoods that cluster around where the bay meets the ocean. Salvador, Brazil has a tropical climate including rainforests and lush vegetation. A 100-m cliff runs along the entire bayshore, dividing the city into Cidade Alta, up on the cliff, and the Cidade Baixa down by the bay. The former features Pelourinho, the old city center that packs historical sites, colonial architecture, museums, restaurants, bars, hostels, artisanal shops, and music/dance/capoeira academies into a convenient, albeit tourist-swarmed, set of winding cobblestone streets. The latter features a commercial center with lots of bus traffic coming in from all over Salvador. Outside of this area, there are many beach districts that stretch from the tip of the peninsula northeast along the Atlantic coast. The Barra neighborhood at the tip of the peninsula is the main alternative jumping-off point to Pelourinho, and a little further to the northeast are the hip neighborhoods of Rio Vermelho and Amaralina, which feature a nightlife less geared to the foreign tourism industry. A decent bus ride beyond these is the neighborhood of Itapuã, which has an energetic beach side nightlife and relatively few foreign visitors. Northward from there are kilometres and kilometers of gorgeous beaches, all accessible by bus. The bayshore coast north beyond Pelourinho features a more tranquil atmosphere and a locally patronized, though less scenic, beach life. The interior of Salvador is where the "new city" has developed, full of residential neighborhoods, shopping megaplexes, and knotted highways, all of which can be quite alienating without actually having a friend to show you around. Local residents enjoy sha

Getting there

By plane 1 Salvador's Deputado Luis Eduardo Magalhães International Airport (SSA IATA). It is one of Brazil's main airports. All of the biggest Brazilian airlines have flights to the Bahian capital city. The city also receives flights from the main hubs of Europe, South America and the United States. Scheduled airlines:

LATAM (all Brazil,Miami and Buenos Aires). Gol (all Brazil, Buenos Aires and Rosário). Azul Linhas Aéreas (Vitória da Conquista, Paulo Afonso, Ilhéus, Porto Seguro, Teixeira de Freitas, Lençóis, Recife, Belo Horizonte, Fortaleza, Goiânia), Feira de Santana, Campinas and Cuiabá). Passaredo (Vitória da Conquista, Barreiras, Brasília and Ribeirão Preto). TAP (Lisbon). Aerolineas Argentinas (Buenos Aires and Córdoba) Air Europa (Madrid) Cabo Verde Airlines (Ilha do Sal) Copa Airlines (Panamá City) Condor (Frankfurt). The airport is 28 km from the city center (via the Paralela expressway) or 32 km (via the seaside). There is a subway station easily reached by a free bus shuttle from the terminal. The subway fare is R$3.70 (including transfer to city buses). The subway is the best option to reach the city, it goes to the city center and also connects the airport directly to the main bus terminal (Estação Rodoviária). To Barra, Campo Grande or Ondina area, take the subway to Lapa Station (Line 1) and then a short bus ride (or a taxi/Uber). To Pelourinho, take the subway to Campo da Pólvora Station and then walk (around 900 meters, it's ok if you're arriving during the day) or take a taxi or Uber. To the ferry-boat terminal (to Itaparica), take the subway to Acesso Norte Station (Line 1 and 2) and then a bus towards São Joaquim. Two kinds of taxis are available in the airport, the executive taxis (Coometas and Comtas), and the normal taxis. Executive taxis are pre-paid, they have a table of prices rather than a meters. The other taxi option would be the normal taxis which are metered. A third option would be the executive air-conditioned minibuses which depart every 20 minutes to the Praça da Sé, in downtown near Pelourinho via the seaside, stopping at famous beaches like Ondina, Pituba, Amaralina and Itapuã, and Barra as well as stopping by Shopping Barra--an American-style shopping mall located not too far from the Farol da Barra The fare for these buses is R$4. Another option is the urban buses that go to many parts of the city, for the tourist the options are Lapa and Campo Grande buses, the best thing is ask the driver before taking an urban bus, the fare is R$3.70. There is also a shuttle service to some hotels around the city and cost

Getting around

By foot There are a number of transportation options available in Salvador, including taxis, buses and car rentals. the bus fares are quite affordable, although the taxi fares can be quite expensive if one is traveling a long distance. The old city center can be easily explored on foot. To get between the upper and lower sections, take the Elevador Lacerda or the cable car, remember to take small change as the fare is just R$0.15. The streets between the two are considered dangerous even during the day.

By bus City buses, as in other Brazilian cities, are constant and confusing. Fares are normally R$3.70, as of July 2018 (even for buses into the neighboring city of Lauro de Freitas). There is also the option of the air-conditioned executive buses for R$5. Remember to board in the back for the full-sized buses. Know your landmarks and neighborhood names. Any large shopping area will have a complimentary frequented bus stop, and the major intercity terminal, Lapa, is next to Shopping Lapa. Other major bus terminals include: Estação Iguatemi (between the Rodoviaria and Shopping Iguatemi), and Estação Mussurunga (on the Paralela with buses usually connecting to Praia do Flamengo interior neighborhoods in Salvador). If you are trying to make your way out of Pelourinho, you can either take the Elevador Lacerda down to the Comercio and find buses for just about every route, or walk to the Praca da Sé bus stop just south of the elevator, which has a much smaller selection of buses passing through, and many options of executive buses. Buses are safe to ride at night, as long as you are on a frequented (i.e. coastal) route and dress and act inconspicuously. Service stops at midnight and begins again around 04:30-05:00. A few lines provide night service from 00:00-04:00. You can find more about the Salvador bus routes and time tables one the website for the Superintendência de Transporte Público (in Portuguese only).

By taxi Salvador cab drivers must be competing with those in Rio for spots on Formula 1 racing teams. They will certainly get you where you're going quicker than the bus! However, as buses stop running after midnight, do be prepared to haggle quite a bit with taxi drivers who refuse to use the meter, especially if you've decided to explore far from your bed. Executive taxis (white and blue) don't have meters, and the prices are on a table, it's more expensive than city taxis, but they are much more comfortable, they are in stops in the main shopping malls, the airport, bus station, ferry-boat station and big hotels.

By car Renting a basic

See

1 Igreja de São Francisco, Largo do Cruzeiro de São Francisco, ☏ +55 71 3322 6430. One of the most important churches in barroco style around the world. At the center of the Cidade Alta there are the two large squares Praça da Sé and the Terreiro de Jesus which are connected at the corner by the cathedral. The latter is probably the most lively part of town, with food carts and stalls through the day and revealers in the evening hours. 2 Museu Afro-Brasileiro. M-F 09:00-18:00, Sa Su 10:00-17:00. A museum that documents the slave trade and subsequent development of the city. R$ 5. 3 Largo do Pelourinho. A fairly small triangular plaza, is among the oldest parts of town. You can guess from its name meaning "plaza of the pillory" what went on around there. (updated Oct 2020) 4 Mercado Modelo. The city's main market located in the lower town is and a good place for crafts and other souvenirs. In the adjacent square you can often see young men performing capoeira, the famous martial arts dance which originates from the area. (updated Oct 2020)

5 Igreja do Nosso Senhor do Bonfim. A small church located in a neighborhood to the north, is one of the most popular pilgrimage sites in all of Brazil. The colorful votive ribbons or fitas of Bonfim are an easily recognizable item throughout Brazil and even beyond. Children outside the church will (for a small fee) tie them around your wrist and tell you to make a wish for each one. If the ribbon wears off naturally, the wish will come true; if you cut it off before then, it won't. You can get to Bonfim city by bus in about fifteen minutes. (updated Oct 2020) Abaeté Park — A protected state park around the lake with the same name. The lake is famous because of the stark contrast between the dark water and the very white sand dunes. There is an entertainment area with a lot of bars and live music. 6 Solar do Unhão. The best place in Salvador to watch the sunset. It is an old style house located at the Baía de Todos os Santos. Inside there is a small museum (Museu de Arte Moderna) with local art pieces. Sometimes on Saturday evening there is a jazz concert. (updated Oct 2020) 7 Farol da Barra. The Farol da Barra (Barra Lighthouse) is one of Salvador’s most famous landmarks, standing at the entrance of All Saints Bay. Built in the 17th century, it is Brazil’s oldest lighthouse and is part of the Santo Antônio da Barra Fort. Inside, the Nautical Museum of Bahia showcases maritime history and relics from shipwrecks. (updated Jan 2025)

Do

You'll find a huge variety of things to do in Salvador. Some of the popular activities include:

Day tour of Salvador - Salvador 500 years in 1 day (info: salvador-guide.basix.cc) Salvador Parks Salvador golf courses Salvador music festivals Surf trips Participate at a Candomblé ceremony. Candomblé is an Afro-Brazilian religion that originated in Salvador and still has a significant following in Brazil. Their places of cult are called terreiros and many are open to visit. You can ask at FENACAB (Nacional de Culto Afro Brasileiro). They organise visits with a taxi for 100 Reais and have an office in Rua Portas do Carmo, 39 – 1º andar (antiga Alfredo de Brito) – Pelourinho +55 71 3321 1548. http://bahia.com.br/outros_servicos/federacao-nacional-de-culto-afro-brasileiro/ Many travel agencies also organize similar visits for the same price. They are free to enter and tourists are welcome to participate, so if you know a terreiros you can also go by yourself. A good Brazil tour guide in Salvador, known as a guia de Salvador, will be able to show you around lots of the attractions and activities if you want to explore on your own. A good option to get a general idea and find your way around in the city is the "Salvador Bus", an open-top tour bus passing by the main points of interest and offering explanation on the way. One of the main attractions in Salvador is the Carnaval. Salvador's giant Carnaval, the biggest of the world, according to the Guinness book of records, lasts for one week and is extremely popular with Brazilians and tourists alike. The event happens in mid-February and consists of parades, live entertainment, music, dancers and vendors. The main parades follow three circuits: one in the historic center Pelourinho (with mainly traditional groups in costumes), one on Campo Grande, where most bands play samba, and the most popular one in Barra/Ondina, where modern Brazilian Axé music mixes with percussion and all kinds of rhythms and styles, and the bands parade between "Camarote" boxes on one side and the beach on the other. Options to participate are either by watching from the camarote boxes, or purchasing an "abadá" shirt to join a group that accompanies one of the bands throughout the parade. You can expect to have a lot of fun if you vacation in Salvador during Carnaval. Salvador also has many other attractions that tourists will find enjoyable. these include golf courses, museums and even an old 17th-century fort. Anyone wishing to visit Salvador Brazil will find their trip to be entertaining, fun and full of wonderful memories.

Go to t

Buy

Salvador shopping is the bargain hunters paradise. There is nothing that you cannot find in a mall. If you plan to buy popular art, crafts and clothing, check the small stores at the Old Town or head to the Mercado Modelo (Model Market). Locals like to shop at American-style shopping malls:

Shopping Center Iguatemi Salvador Shopping Shopping Barra Shopping Itaigara Shopping Center Lapa Shopping Piedade Bahia Outlet Center Salvador Norte Shopping Aeroclube Shopping & Office The first thing that anyone wanting to shop in Salvador should know is that it is essential to haggle. very few vendors will stick to their given price. If pushed they will always go lower. If you are looking for souvenirs you may want to check out Litoral Norte located at Rua Gregorio de Matos 30. They sell t-shirts and other items. Most will cost you no more than $5. If you want local art you should visit Pelourhino. There are many galleries that double as stores. Galeria 13 at Rua Santa Isabel 13 displays work by local artists.

Eat

Bahian restaurants are considered to be among the best in Brazil. The majority of Bahia restaurants offer South American cuisine but there a few that offer other specialties. For example, the Maria Mato Mouro located at Rua 3A Ordem de São Francisco, Pelourinho serves a wide range of seafood dishes from all over the world although most are from South America. One of the most popular dishes is the grilled bahia fish badejo. This restaurant is open daily from noon until 1AM and offers main courses from $15 to $25. The Terreiro de Jesus is a great place to sample the local cuisine from street stalls, served by Afro-Brazilian baianas in their traditional white dresses. A must try dish is the Abara. This is a wrap with bean paste, dende oil and onions all cooked in a banana leaf with spices for flavour. if you prefer western food then you will find many fast-food places like Burger King, McDonald's, Subway or Pizza Hut. You also will find casual dinner chains like Outback Steakhouse. Be sure to try acarajé, small fritters made from black-eyed peas and onions fried in palm oil slathered with spicy vatapá (shrimp paste). These are sold by Baianas on the street.

Budget Acarajé da Cira, Largo de Itapuã, 3249-4170. Fresh acarajé daily from 10:00-23:00. There is also another location on the Largo da Mariquita in Rio Vermelho. Acarajé da Dica, Rua J, Castro Rabelo, Pelourinho. Open Tu-Sa 15:00-23:00, Su 10:00-01:00. Health Valley Brasil, Rua Direita da Piedade (in the city center). Vegetarian restaurant run by an African couple. Serving typical dishes based around ginger. Very popular with the local alternative crowd. Buffet including fruit juice and dessert costs R$12. Quiosque de Amaralina, Ave Otávio Mangabeira, Amaralina. Serving acarajé near the beach from 4PM to midnight.

Mid-range Bistrô PortoSol (On a cross-street near Porto da Barra). Small, cozy Austrian-Hungarian restaurant run by an Austrian and his wife. Simple accommodations decorated with posters of classic Hollywood movies. Quite delicious. Companhia da Pizza, Rio Vermelho (on a cross-street near the Pestana Bahia and Blue Tree Towers Hotels). One of the city's most popular pizza restaurants. La Figa, Rua das Laranjeiras 17, Pelourinho (Near Terreiro de Jesus). Italian restaurant with fresh pasta around R$35 for two people, appetizers around R$10, and desserts. High quality, good service and good atmosphere. Maria Mata Mouro, Pelourinho (Near São Francisco Church). Small, with only 12 tables but the service is great. Try the shrimp. Meridiano, Ave Tancredo Neves (in front of the Casa d

Drink & nightlife

Be aware of bars charging an entrance fee on exit.If you want top make sure that there is no cover ask when ordering the first drink.

Bars Bar da Ponta, beside the Trapiche Adelaide. A place to see and be seen, drink, and have a fantastic view of the bay. Beco dos Artistas, near Campo Grande. One of the gay and lesbian areas of the city, with a diversified crowd. Friday and Saturday nights only. The area has various bars and a restaurant (the nightclub is now closed). Aim to get there around 22:00, as it starts to empty around midnight as people move onto other clubs. Bohemia Music Bar, Jardim Brasil. The comfortable atmosphere, live music, and a varied menu make this a popular pick-up spot. The places often checks for IDs at the entrance. Chuleta, Vale do Canela (near the UFB campus and the neighborhoods of Graça and Vitória). Boteco frequented by university students, famous for its cheap beer and for the meat snack from which the bar takes its name. Open air, plastic tables. Largo de Santana, Rio Vermelho. This busy street has various bars and restaurants, and some of the best acarajé in town. Mercado do Peixe, Rio Vermelho (at the seaside in front of the Blue Tree Towers Hotel). One of the best after-hours spots, Mercado do Peixe is a real Salvador institution. It starts to get busy after 03:00 when everywhere else is closing. With simple accommodations and plastic tables, various stands stay open offering moquecas and regional appetizers, in addition to drinks. During the day it is, as its name suggests, a traditional seafood market. Casarão do Lord, Rua Frei Vicente, No 7, Pelourinho, ☏ +55 71 3321-2448. In the middle of the Pelourinho. Live bands (salsa, samba, reggae, zouk, semba) and DJs spinning African, Brazilian and world music. Tasty African dishes and drinks are also offered. African flags, maps, and artworks adorn the walls. The top floor has a projection system showing films and documentaries. Hostel Galeria 13, Pelourinho, Rua da ordem terceira no 23. The new native English speaking owner has travelled and worked in many famous bars and clubs around the world you will get a chance to check out his knowledge of drinks. They offer great juices with a touch of ginger 'refreshing', or maybe a caipirinha or roska with water melon already being boasted the best in Brasil, a big Claim take him up on it. You can enjoy your drinks in the garden or the most original spot in Pelourinho, the Moroccan "chill out" room. Bar Zulu, Pelourinho, Rua das laranjeiras no 15, ☏ +55 71 8784-3172. A very international bar & vegetarian restaurant.A mix of s

Sleep

There are luxury hotels on the beach. Salvador also has discount hotels that offer cheap rates for those on a budget. There are also hostels in Pelourinho that are reasonably priced, but noisy at night.

Budget Albergue da Lucia, Rua Portas do Carmo 9, Pelourinho, ☏ +55 71 3266-2384. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. A Meson Pousada, Rua Portas do Carmo 11, Pelourinho 51 71 3322-8039 offers affordable lodging in the middle of all the action, day and night, for Salvador's Historic District. Hostel Pais Tropical , Largo do Pelourinho 7, Pelourinho 51 71 3322-1859 Situated in the heart of Salvador. Offers economical prices, good breakfast and support for speaking in English, Portuguese, Spanish, and Polish. Open House, Rua Comendador Bernado Catarino, 137, Barra, ☏ +55 11 3711-2186. Run by an artist couple, Cuban writer and film director husband Alex and Brazilian painter, dancer and choreographer wife Jacqui. A few blocks from Barra beach and trendy restaurants and bars, the house is full of paintings and artistic touch and incredible hospitality. Dorm and private rooms available. Ibis Salvador Rio Vermelho, Rua Fonte do Boi, 215, Rio Vermelho, ☏ +55 71 3172-4100. Hotel Ondimar, Ave Oceânica, 1843, Ondina, ☏ +55 71 3339-8383. Sol Plaza Sleep, Ave Otávio Mangabeira, 4581, ☏ +55 71 3418-3699. Praia de Armação. São Jorge. In Pelourinho. Free internet and breakfast included. Praia da Sereia, Ave Dorival Caymmi, 14 (near the airport), ☏ +55 71 3285-8100. Itapoã. Che Lagarto, Avenida Oceânica, 84, Barra, ☏ +55 71 3235-2404, [email protected]. Prices from US$12 the night, breakfast included, public kitchen, bar inside the hostel. There are 3 hostels affiliated with Hostelling International: two are in Barra and one in Pelourinho. All are quality youth hostels.

Hostel Barra, Rua Artur Neiva, 04, Barra (near Morro do Cristo), ☏ +55 71 3245-2600. Laranjeiras Hostel, ☏ +55 71 3321-1366. Rua da Ordem Terceira 13, Pelourinho. Hostel Galeria13. Rua da ordem terceira 23, Pelourinho, 71-32665609.(It is not affiliated with HI) Casa de Mainha Friendly Hostel, R. Arthur d'Almeida Couto - Vila Laura, ☏ +55 71 99247-6947. Cheap place in Villa Laura, the owner is extraordinarily friendly, high value for the low price. The owner will send you recommendations for visits and evening activities. Late night check-ins possible for a small fee.

Mid-range Pousada Poesia Hotel, Rua da Poesia 118, Farol de Itapuá, ☏ +55 71 3249-1435. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. CEP: 41640-485 Bahia Othon Palace Hotel, Av. Oceânica, 2294, ☏ +55 71 2103-71

Go next

Salvador is the gateway to many other nearby attractions such as:

Praia do Forte. Beach town with the "Project Tamar" turtle sanctuary. Imbassai. Just a few kilometers further north from Praia do Forte, this relaxed village's beach lies between the sea and a river that runs parallel to the ocean for a few hundred meters. Unique panorama. Boipeba. A beautiful and very pleasant island. Morro de São Paulo. Very frequented island by tourists and locals, plenty of restaurants, hostels and bars. It has four beaches with translucent water. Massarandupió. 90 km from Salvador, it's a true paradise, a semi-desert beach, with a small river. Walking by the beach you can reach a naturist area. Aracaju and further north to Maceió and Recife Chapada Diamantina National Park