Recife

Understand

Recife (Portuguese: "The Reef") is on the Atlantic coast, at the estuary of the Capibaribe, Beberibe and Jordão Rivers, close to the easternmost point of the Americas. The city, which is only two meters above sea level (some parts are below), is distributed across rivers, canals and islands. Due to the prevalence of waterways in its geography, Recife is known as Veneza Brasileira (Brazilian Venice). Its 1.7 million inhabitants (2020), 3.7 million in the Grande Recife, are called recifenses. Services are the base of the economy. Despite the high incidence of poverty, the municipal Human Development Index (HDI) in 2000 (0.810) was above Brazil's national average (0.800). Recife is famous for its beaches, history, Carnaval, arts and cuisine.

Orientation The city can be roughly divided in four major areas:

The Centro (Center) is composed of the neighborhoods of Recife Antigo (Old Recife), Santo Antônio, São José, Santo Amaro and Boa Vista, which are scattered through a couple of islands and part of the mainland. They are connected to each other by a series of bridges over the Capibaribe River. The Centro contains most of the historic and government buildings in the city. The port, which is in Recife Antigo, was once the most active in all of the Americas. Zona Sul (South Zone) is the most modern and touristic part of the city, as it was built around the beautiful natural reef beaches that gave the city its name. This area has a great many hotels, restaurants, bars, the airport, and the largest shopping mall. Its most important neighborhood is Boa Viagem, set along the beautiful Boa Viagem beach. Because of the beach and the skyline Boa Viagem is also called the Copacabana of the North East. Zona Oeste (West Zone) is by far the greenest part of the city. It contains remnants of the Atlantic Forest that once covered most of the Brazilian eastern coast. It contains two famous museums (Instituto Ricardo Brennand and Museu-Oficina Francisco Brennand), as well as the Federal University of Pernambuco, and the Recife Military school (2nd best school around all Brazil). Zona Norte (North Zone) is mostly a residential area. Throughout the centuries, the neighborhoods along the Capibaribe River were home to the local aristocracy. It contains the city's best schools and hospitals, and is also famous for its parks and bars. The term Grande Recife is used to describe the Metropolitan Region of Recife, the fifth largest urban agglomeration in Brazil (after São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, Belo Horizonte and Porto Alegre) and the single largest in the Northeast. Gr

Getting there

By plane 1 Guararapes-Gilberto Freyre International Airport (REC IATA). A modern, efficient, user-friendly and close to the city. There are, as of January 2025, direct scheduled flights domestically from major cities in Brazil, and internationally from Buenos Aires (both Aeroparque and Ezeiza), Montevideo, Santiago de Chile, Asunción, Orlando, Fort Lauderdale and Lisbon.

From the airport MetroRec Subway has an Aeroporto stop on its southern line which will take you directly downtown. Bus 033 (Aeroporto) goes every 20 minutes to Boa Viagem (15 min) and to the city center (Av. Dantas Barreto, 30 min). You can also take the Aeroporto opcional which is a little bit faster. Stop in front of the airport building. Bus 161 (Brigadeiro Ivo Borges) and Bus 163 (Cajueiro Seco) also go to the city center. Stop on the other side of the street opposite the airport building. Taxis are also available. You may also want to consider flying to the airports of Maceió, Natal or João Pessoa. From there you can take an intercity bus or shared ride with Blablacar to Recife.

By car BR-101, also known as the Translitoranean, connects to the north with Natal and João Pessoa, and to the south with Maceió, Aracaju, and Salvador, as well as Vitória and Rio de Janeiro further down the coast. BR-232 runs east-west across most of Pernambuco, connecting Recife with Gravatá, Caruaru and other destinations. BR-408 connects Recife with Tracunhaém and with Campina Grande, Paraíba.

By intercity bus 2 Terminal Integrado de Passageiros (TIP), Rod BR 232 - Coqueiral, ☏ +55 81 3452-1999. Recife's long-distance bus terminal is way out in the suburbs. TIP is connected to the city by the MetroRec subway at the Rodoviária station on the Centro 1 line, around 15 minutes from downtown. Bus companies have booths at the Central MetroRec station in town, so at least you do not have to trek out just to buy advance bus tickets. Direct buses from all Northeast and many other capital cities:

From Fortaleza by Guanabara, R$90-120 (April 2021), 12 hours. From Natal by Progresso, R$80 (April 2021), 4½ hours. Hourly from João Pessoa From Maceió from R$80 (April 2021)

By shared rides Especially from Maceió and Natal you can get a better price from the frequent shared rides. Have a look on Blablacar.

By boat Cruise ships sometimes call at the Port of Recife. However cruises heading all the way here are usually on a trip around the world or something similar and as therefore much more expensive than your typical five-day cruise in the Caribbean or Mediterranean. There may also be domestic c

Getting around

By e-hailing Uber operates in Recife with available pickups at the airport.

By taxi Look for registered taxi companies which charge standard rates. Ask for a car with air conditioning (especially in the summer).

Coopetáxi, ☏ +55 81 3224-8441. Disk Táxi, ☏ +55 81 3224-5410. Ligue Táxi, ☏ +55 81 3228-6830. RádioTáxi Recife, ☏ +55 81 3222-6580. Recife Táxi, ☏ +55 81 3424-3020. TeleTáxi, ☏ +55 81 2121-4242.

By bus Buses are the most useful form of mass transportation. The Sistema Estrutural Integrado (SEI), has 119 bus lines which are integrated with the subway system at 13 points throughout the metropolitan area.

By subway Metro Recife, Recife's subway system, is the third largest in Brazil, although it covers only limited areas of the city. 13 of the 28 stations have connections to the SEI metro bus system and, depending on your destination, it may be possible to purchase a single combination subway/bus ticket. MetroRec has three basic lines:

Two Central lines run together from downtown to the west, where they split after Coqueiral station and go to Jaboatão dos Guararapes and Camaragibe respectively. It does provide a useful link between the city center and the TIP Bus Station in the outskirts, at the penultimate stop on the Camaragibe (Centro 1) line. The South line provides direct access to the airport and Shopping Center Recife on its way to Cajueiro Seco.

See

Beaches Recife is known for its amazing beaches.

2 Boa Viagem Beach (Praia de Boa Viagem). Probably one of the world's best urban beaches, with pristine white sands. With 8 km of hotels and restaurants, it is the longest urbanized stretch of beach in Brazil. If you want a tan, you came to the right place. The beach road has a wide walkway attached and this is dotted with huts selling food and drink. Try the traditional "água de coco" (coconut water). The beach is full of vendors selling food and drink. There are also vendors selling t-shirts, hats, suncream, sunglasses. These guys can get a bit insistent. Simply smile and one word will have them on their way: não (pronounced "nawwn"). The beach is somewhat protected by a coral reef wall visible at low tide, making it good for a swim, but don't go out past the wall, as the waters are more dangerous, with sharks reported in the area. (updated Jan 2021) 3 Brasilia Teimosa Beach (Praia de Brasília Teimosa). A smaller and less frequented beach near the port. (updated Jan 2021) 4 Pina Beach (Praia do Pina). A well-developed and popular beach north of Boa Viagem Beach. It's a little more relaxed, with weak waves. (updated Jan 2021)

Churches

5 Convento Franciscano de Santo Antônio (Franciscan Convent of Saint Anthony), Rua Imperador Pedro II, Santo Antônio, (Centro). M-F 08:00-11:30, 14:00-17:00; Sa 08:00-11:30. One of the city's biggest attractions, a convent containing the ostentatious Capela Dourada (Golden Chapel), which certainly lives up to its name. Built in 1588, it is one of the most beautiful baroque churches in Brazil. Altar with gold-covered engravings, beautiful paintings on the ceiling and impressive amount of Portuguese-style tiled panels. This is one of the main sights in Recife. The interior of rosewood and cedar is completely covered with gold. You will find similar churches full of splendour only in Salvador da Bahia or Ouro Preto. The convent also houses the Museu Franciscano de Arte Sagrada (Franciscan Museum of Sacred Art). R$2. 6 Igreja da Madre de Deus (Mother of God Church), Rua Madre de Deus, Recife Antigo (Centro) (next-door to the Paço Alfândega Shopping Mall), ☏ +55 81 3224-5587. Tu-F 08:00-12:00 and 14:00-17:00; Sa Su 09:00-12:00. Completed in 1709, the construction was financed by Antônio Fernandes de Matos, one of the city's many wealthy merchants. The baroque interior is impressive with carvings and details in gold. 7 Nossa Senhora do Carmo (Our Lady of Carmel Basilica and Convent), Avenida Dantas Barreto - Santo Antônio (Centro). M-F 07:00-19:00, Sa 07:00-12:00, Su 08:

Do

Maracatu Rehearsals (ensaios de maracatu). Some of the most traditional maracatu (Pernambuco-style carnaval dances and parades) groups include: Leão Coroado (since 1863), Estrela Brilhante do Recife (since 1909), Porto Rico (since 1916), Cambinda Estrela do Recife (since 1935), and Elefante, among others. Catamaran Rides in the Capibaribe River (Catamaran Tours, Cais das Cinco Pontas), Avenida Sul, São José (Centro), ☏ +55 81 3424-2845, +55 81 9973-4077. 16:00 and 20:00 daily. Tour lasts 1 hour and 15 minutes. Agenda de Eventos do Recife. Daily, 16:00 and 20:00. Tour last 1 hour and 15 minutes. Scuba diving. Recife is known as Brazil's shipwreck capital: more than 100 ships have sunk in the coast around the city, 15 of which are accessible to tourists. Together with the natural coral reefs, they make the coast of Recife a great spot for scuba diving. Volleyball and footvolley at Boa Viagem beach. The latter was first developed into a sport in the sands of Recife, Salvador and Rio de Janeiro in the 1970s. Panorama flight (NVO Táxi Aéreo, Aeroclube de Pernambuco), ☏ +55 81 3325-0191.

Theaters Recife is the third largest theater production center in Brazil, after São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. The most traditional theater is Teatro Santa Isabel (listed in the See section above), while the most modern is the one at Convention Center of the Federal University of Pernambuco.

Football Football (soccer) teams from Recife have participated in the A-Series (First Division) Brazilian Championship, the Brazil Cup, Pernambucan Championship, and the Copa Libertadores da América. The three most traditional teams are Clube Náutico Capibaribe (home: 1 Aflitos Stadium); Sport Clube do Recife (home: 2 Ilha do Retiro Stadium); and Santa Cruz Futebol Clube (home: 3 Arruda Stadium). As of 2025 Sport plays in the B-Series of the Brazilian Championship, Náutico in the C-Series and Santa Cruz is in the D-Series. Recife is home to internationally famous football players including Juninho Pernambucano, Rivaldo, Ricardo Rocha and Vavá.

Roller hockey The city of Recife is home to some of Brazil's top roller hockey teams: Clube Português do Recife, Clube Náutico Capibaribe, Sport Clube do Recife and Associacão Amigos do Minho do Recife. Both Clube Português and Sport have been national champions.

Events Carnaval Recife. yearly, next event 27 February-5 March 2025. Recife's Carnaval is one of the country's busiest. The Galo da Madrugada parade known for the huge rooster statue which is paraded around, takes place on Saturday morning of the Carnaval and is the

Buy

Smaller shops and shopping arcades 1 Casa da Cultura, Rue Floriano Peixoto, Santo Antonio (opposite the old Central Train Station (now Train Museum)), ☏ +55 81 3224 0557. M-Sa 09:00-19:00, Su 09:00-14:00. Once the city prison, it is now a warren of small shops (one in each cell) selling regional arts and crafts. 2 Domingo na Rua, Rua do Bom Jesus. Su 14:00-22:00. Sunday market 3 Mercado de São José. A 1871 project of architect J. Louis Liethier and engineer Louis Léger Vauthier. Iron structure was inspired in the Grenelle Market in Paris, France. Historically, the market played an important role as a meeting place for street magicians, musicians, acrobats and the like. You can still find traditional handicrafts, regional food, medicinal herbs and Cordel Literature. (updated Jan 2021)

Malls

Shopping malls are similar to elsewhere in the world, with a number of shops selling clothes, home electronics, groceries and so forth, places to eat and drink, services such as banks, and some entertainment options.

4 Paço Alfândega, Rua de Alfandega 35, Recife Antigo. M-Sa 10:00-22:00, Su 12:00-20:00. A visit to Paço Alfândega is highly recommended. Paço Alfândega (Customs' Palace in Portuguese) is a comfortable, modern shopping mall set in the renovated structure of a colonial customs house building from the early 1700s, during which Recife was the largest port in the Americas. There is a permanent historic exhibition on the history of Recife and the customs building. The mall also houses one of Recife's main nightclubs and some good restaurants. You can have a good view of the Capibaribe River and its bridges from the main terrace. 5 Plaza Casa Forte, Rua Dr. João Santos Filho, 255 - Casa Forte, ☏ +55 81 3265-8100. M-Sa 10:00-22:00, Su 12:00-20:00. Western-style shopping mall, with more than 150 shops a movie theater. 6 Shopping Boa Vista, Rua do Giriquiti, 48 - Boa Vista, ☏ +55 81 3423-5666. M-Sa 09:00-21:00, Su 11:00-19:00. More than 100 shops of different kinds, also has a movie theater. 7 Shopping Center Guararapes, Av. Barreto de Menezes, 800 - Piedade, ☏ +55 81 2122-2211. M-Sa 09:00-22:00, Su 12:00-20:00. Near Praia de Piedade in southern Recife, with 200 shops and an entertainment area. There's also a tourist office. 8 Shopping Center Recife, R. Pe. Carapuceiro, 777 - Boa Viagem, ☏ +55 81 3464-6000. M-Sa 10:00-22:00, Su 12:00-21:00. Among the largest shopping malls in Brazil. 9 Shopping Center Tacaruna, Av. Gov. Agamenon Magalhães 153 - Santo Amaro, ☏ +55 81 3412-6000. M-Sa 09:00-22:00, Su 12:00-20:00. With more than 200 shops and restaurants.

Eat

Local specialties

Pernambuco has a multicultural gastronomy with African and indigenous influences, among others. The national dish Feijoada (a stew of beans, pork and beef, served with rice and Farofa) is not very popular in Recife. On the other hand some ingredients which are widely used in Recife are hardly found in the South of Brazil, as manioc flour (which is the main ingredient of tapioca), cuscuz (corn flour), pumpkin, jerked beef, goat or lamb. Seafood is exotic and delicious. The regional food has some peculiarities like Carne de Sol and buchada, a dish prepared with the stomach of billy goat.

Recife is the birthplace of two traditional and delicious cakes Bolo de Rolo and Bolo Sousa Leão. Do try the snacks on offer from beach vendors---little chicken and beef kebabs, oysters, prawns, and grilled cheese. Just be aware that some of the vendors may have been carrying them around for hours--if it doesn't look fresh, it probably isn't. A must try is Caldinho: a soup served all over the place (restaurants, dedicated carts and people with flasks selling it on the beach). Comes in a variety of flavors from black bean to shrimp. The person selling it will say "completa" when you order it. This simply means "complete", and if you say yes at this point you get a few added extras, such as a small boiled egg put into the cup of hot soup.

Restaurants Recife is the gastronomic capital of the Northeast. There are more high-quality restaurants here than in any other city in Brazil north of Rio de Janeiro.

Budget 1 Chica Pitanga, Rua Petrolina, 19 - Boa Viagem, ☏ +55 91 3465-2224. M-F 11:30-15:30 and 18:00-22:00, Sa 11:30-16:00 and 18:00-22:00, Su 11:30-16:00. Per-kilo restaurant with regional foods. (updated Jan 2025) 2 Creperia Anjo Solto, Av. Herculano Bandeira, 513 (Galeria Joana D'Arc, shop 14). W Th 19:00-04:00, F Sa 21:00-04:00, Su 19:00-01:00. Crepes both savory and sweet, plus drinks. Note the very late hours. (updated Jan 2025) 3 Bercy Boa Viagem (former La Vague), Rua Professor Rui Batista, 120. Crepe place. (updated Jan 2025) 4 Papaya Verde, rua Santo Elías 409, ☏ +55 81 3325-2242. daily 11:30-15. Self-service restaurant with delicious Middle Eastern food. (updated Jan 2025) 5 Brotfabrik, Rua da Moeda 87 (Recife Antigo), ☏ +55 81 3424 2250, [email protected]. M-F 07:00-19:00. German bakery with dark bread, but also pizza, sandwiches and smoothies. Popular with office workers at lunchtime. (updated Jan 2025)

Mid-range

6 Bargaço, Cais Santa Rita, 46, ☏ +55 81 3465-1847. Su-Th 12:00-00:00, F Sa 12:00-01:00. Bargaço is considered the

Drink & nightlife

Bars There are many many bars in Recife, most, if not all, serving food as well as drinks. The prices are cheap. At the less classy end of the market, there are some great bars. They don't have great signage to tell you that it's a bar. Basically, if you see some plastic garden furniture in the street, you are looking at a bar. These are usually the most fun places with the loudest people and the best vibe. Be careful of the ice in places like this as it might not be made from bottled water. It also helps to have a good constitution of you are going to eat in these bars.

There are huts selling food, beer, and the like about every half kilometer in the center of Boa Viagem beach. Warning: It might not be safe to walk to and from all these nightspots. Ask around, and take a cab to escape muggings. There are bars of varying quality up and down the streets of Recife. A few good picks include the following:

1 Bar Central, Rua Mamede Simões 144 - Boa Vista, ☏ +55 81 3222-7622. M-F 12:00-02:00, Sa 20:00-02:00, Su closed. A lively and fun place more upmarket than most. The bar attracts a diverse crowd, ranging from writers to musician. Bar Central is also queer-friendly and very famous with indie kids. (updated Jan 2025) 2 Biruta, Rua Bem-Te-Vi, 15 - Pina (Zona Sul), ☏ +55 81 3326-5151. A lovely bar on the north end of the beach that gets a great sea breeze all evening. Get there early to get a table with a view. (updated Jan 2025) 3 Downtown Pub, Avenida Boa Viagem 618, ☏ +55 81 3424-6317, [email protected]. This British pub-inspired bar puts on live music shows and is self-entitled "House of Rock". If you like "Heavy Metal", watch out, there might be a concert over there. (updated Jan 2025) 4 Entre Amigos, Av Boa Viagem, 760, ☏ +55 81 3312-1000. A bar restaurant with 2 names and 3 seating areas, one of which has air conditioning. Situated in downtown Boa Viagem and a 5 minute walk from the beach. A great place to watch the football or soak up the lively atmosphere of the very busy bar, it has a great buffet for lunch or you can eat à la carte. (updated Jan 2025) 5 Guaiamum Gigante, Rua Dr. José de Góes, 299, ☏ +55 81 3441-1509. This bar-restaurant seats up to 600 people. Although it may not be too pleasing to the eyes, Guaiamum Gigante serves great portions of delicious seafood for a relatively low price. This is a nice place to go on Sundays!. (updated Jan 2025)

Dance clubs 6 Metrópole, Rua das Ninfas, 125 - Boa Vista, ☏ +55 81 3040-8545. GLS danceclub. (updated Jan 2025) 7 Sala de Reboco, Rua Gregório Júnior, 264 - Cordeiro, ☏ +55 81 3228-70

Sleep

Many tourists stay along the beach in Boa Viagem, 10 km (7 mi) south of the center. The area of Boa Vista just across the Ponte Velha from the train station has a number of budget and mid-range hotels.

Budget 1 Hostel Boa Viagem (Hosteling International), R. Barão de Souza Leão, 1103, ☏ +55 81 3326-9572. Hostel. Prices vary according to the season. (updated Jan 2025) 2 Piratas da Praia, Av. Conselheiro Aguiar, 2034 / 307 - Boa viagem, ☏ +55 81 3326-1281. Free wi-fi and 24 hour parking, if you choose to rent a car. They also have different holiday and Carnaval packages. (updated Jan 2025) 3 Pousada da Praça, Rua Setubal, 196 - Boa Viagem, ☏ +55 81 3343-1179, [email protected]. This small, 15-room hotel is affiliated with the Pousada bar and club. Guests of the hotel have free admission to the club. Under German/Australian management, the hotel offers yacht and sightseeing tours. Breakfast is included in the price, along with free airport transfers. (updated Jan 2025)

Mid-range 4 Imperial Suites, Rua Antonio Lumack do Monte, 203 - Boa Viagem, ☏ +55 81 3465-8501. Apartment hotel. (updated Jan 2025) 5 Hotel Manibu Recife (Kastel Manibu Recife Hotel), Av Conselheiro Aguiar, 919 - Boa Viagem, ☏ +55 24 2220-6300. This well-known hotel provides its guests with two bars, a restaurant that seats 170 people, and a solarium. (updated Jan 2025) 6 LG Inn Recife, Av. Engenheiro Domingos Ferreira, 3067 - Boa Viagem, ☏ +55 81 2122-3939. Complimentary breakfast buffets, along with a well-equipped fitness room. Staff speaks both English and Portuguese. (updated Jan 2025) 7 Hotel Central, Av. Manoel Borba, 209 - Boa Vista, ☏ +55 81 3222-4001. The oldest hotel in Recife. Used to attract stars and the like in the early 20th century. Remains architecturally appealing. (updated Jan 2025)

Splurge 8 Hotel Atlante Plaza, Av. Boa Viagem, 5426 - Boa Viagem (on the beachfront), ☏ +55 81 3302-3333. Hotel Atlante Plaza is arguably the best hotel in Recife. It has two restaurants, a 24-hour babysitting service, 24-hour room service, and beauty salon. This is probably the only hotel that offers its guests a pillow menu; guests can choose from various scents and stuffings, such as lavender and camomile. (updated Jan 2025) 9 Costa Mar Recife Hotel by Atlantica (former Blue Tree Towers Recife), Av. Bernado Vieira De Melo 550 Piedade (on Piedade beach), ☏ +55 81 2123 4567. This 4-star hotel is comprised of 135 rooms, all with a view of the sea. The hotel also provides child care and room service. (updated Jan 2025) 10 Internacional Palace Hotel, Av. Boa Viagem, 3722 - Boa

Go next

Olinda - This cute colonial town, just across the bridge from Recife, is a World Heritage Site. You can find hostels there. Porto de Galinhas is the best beach in the vicinity of Recife. On New Year's this place is like a fantasy with amazing open-air parties and tourists from all over Brazil. In Porto de Galinhas and in the nearby Maracaípe are hostels. Serrambi and Tamandaré are wonderful beaches. Further awesome spots are São José da Coroa Grande, Muro Alto, Cupe, Suape, Calhetas, Gaibu and Maria Farinha. Itamaracá Island for its beaches, Coroa do Aviao islet, the 17th century Dutch Fort Orange, the colonial village of Vila Velha, and the IBAMA manatee nature center. Maragogi with its famous swimming pools inside the ocean. Hostels are available. São Miguel dos Milagres The 'Caribbean of Brazil'. It has a hostel. See Get In Igarassu, home to Brazil's oldest church and Latin America's largest collection of baroque paintings. São Benedito do Sul waterfalls. Caruaru and Tracunhaém for their rich handicraft. Caruaru is also famous for its open-air market, the largest in Brazil. Nova Jerusalém, the world's largest theater-city, famous for its enactment of the Passion of Jesus Christ during Easter (holy week). Serrita, in the Sertão region, for its annual Missa do Vaqueiro, a religious-cultural event that honors northeastern cowboys.