Prayagraj

Understand

Prayagraj (pruh-yahg-rahj) is among the largest cities in Uttar Pradesh. Hindu mythology has it that for the Prakrishta Yajna, Lord Brahma, the creator God of the Hindu Trinity, chose a land on earth, on which the three rivers would flow in to a quiet confluence. Brahma also referred to it as Tirth Raj or the "king of all pilgrimage sites". Recorded evidence also exists in the Hindu scriptures (the Vedas and the grand epics, the Ramayana and the Mahabharata, as also in the Puranas) of this holy place formerly called Prayag. Prayagraj stands at the confluence of two of India's holiest rivers, the Ganges and the Yamuna. Sangam, as the confluence is called, is the venue of many sacred fairs and rituals, and attracts thousands of pilgrims throughout the year. This number swells to millions during the Kumbh Mela. An annual Magh Mela is also held in Prayagraj around the Sangam areas in the month of January (Magh is the name of month in Hindu calendar). A third mythical Saraswati river, believed to flow underground towards the Sangam, gives the confluence its other name, Triveni. Emperor Akbar renamed this city in 1575 and called it Illahabas, which turned into Allahabad. The monarch realised its strategic importance as a waterway landmark in North India and also built a magnificent fort on the banks of the holy Sangam. Over the centuries that followed, the then-Allahabad remained on the forefront of national importance, especially during the days of the Indian independence struggle. The chequered history of Prayagraj with its religious, cultural and historical ethos also gave rise to several renowned scholars (M. N. Saha, Harishchandra, Ravindra Khattree, Amar Nath Jha), poets (Suryakant Tripathi Nirala, Mahadevi Verma, Harivansh Rai Bachchan, Sumitra Nandan Panth), writers (Mahadevi Verma, Ramkumar Verma, Jagdish Gupta), thinkers (Purusottam Das Tandon), statesmen and leaders (Motilal Nehru, Jawaharlal Nehru, Murli Manohar Joshi) and the actor Amitabh Bachchan. The city, an important cantonment during the British Raj, has some beautiful remnants of colonial architecture. In the early 20th century, University of Allahabad was the foremost centre of learning in the country. Prayagraj today is an important city where history, culture and religion create a confluence, much like the sacred rivers that caress it. Prayagraj used to have a thriving industrial suburb (Naini) till the 1980s, but then those public sector units started closing down one by one, forcing entire generations of young educated Prayagrajis to migrate out of the city in search of work. Today,

Getting there

The best way to reach Prayagraj, if you are coming from outside India, is to take a direct flight to Delhi and then take one of the numerous connecting trains from Delhi to Prayagraj.

By plane 1 Prayagraj Airport (IXD IATA), Bamrauli Field. Essentially a military base with a small civil enclave. Alliance Air has a flight to Delhi. IndiGo flies to Bangalore (with plans to start service to Mumbai). Baggage is hand delivered after arrival so wait in the terminal if you have checked luggage for it to be delivered. (updated May 2023)

By train Prayagraj is on the trunk train route from Delhi to Kolkata and from Mumbai to Kolkata, so it is well-connected by trains. Innumerable trains stop at Prayagraj. There are several railway stations in the city, including 2 Prayagraj Junction, 3 Prayagraj Rambagh, 4 Prayag Junction and 5 Prayagraj Sangam Terminal. Most of long distance trains call at Prayagraj Junction. Rambag station is generally used by trains that terminate in the city. Prayagraj Sangam Terminal is used mainly during the important religious festivals for the better management and control of extra pilgrim traffic on those occasions. The Howrah Rajdhani Express, though a better train, lands at a very odd hour in Prayagraj (11:43PM) from Delhi which can be inconvenient for Prayagraj being a really quiet place at night. The best train from Delhi to Prayagraj is the Prayag Raj Express which leaves from New Delhi at 9:30PM and arrives in Prayagraj at 6AM next day. The train runs every day. The New Delhi–Prayagraj Duronto Express leaving Prayagraj for New Delhi on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays at 10:40PM and reaches New Delhi at 06:05AM the next day with number 2275. This is a non-stop service with AC1, AC2, AC3 and non-AC 3 Tier composition. Down service from New Delhi leaves on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays at 11:00PM and reaches Prayagraj at 06:20AM the next day with number 2276. Fares are marginally higher than other superfast and express trains. Other express trains include:

From New Delhi: Rajdhani: Bhubaneswar Tejas Rajdhani Express, Dibrugarh Rajdhani Express, Rajendra Nagar Terminal Tejas Rajdhani Express, Ranchi Rajdhani Express, Sealdah Rajdhani Express Non-Rajdhani: Poorva Express, Prayagraj Humsafar Express, Varanasi Vande Bharat Express From Old Delhi: Brahmaputra Mail, Netaji Express From Howrah: Netaji Express, Poorva Express, Vibhuti Express

By car or bus NH 19 connecting to Delhi and Kolkata, NH 35 connecting to Mirzapur, Jhansi and Udaipur, NH 30 connecting to Lucknow, Rewa and Southern India and NH 130 connecting to Sultanp

Getting around

Hire a cyclerickshaw. It is the cheapest, best and most widely available means of transport. You will have to haggle for the prices, though. Auto rickshaws (3-wheelers) are also cheap modes of travel inside the city. City buses are available on certain routes but their arrivals and departures are unpredictable.

See

1 Allahabad Fort. The Allahabad Fort, built from the year 1583 onwards by Akbar, stands at the junction of the two great rivers. It was the largest of Akbar's forts, and although its original form has been much impaired by early restoration work, the splendid Zenana Palace survives. It is a fine pavilion, with a central square hall carried on 64 columns bordered by a deep veranda of double columns and there are clusters of four in each corner. 2 Allahabad High Court, Nyaya Marg, Canton, Dhoomanganj, ☏ +91 532 242 2335. It is the seat of Justice in Uttar Pradesh, and is the oldest high court in the country with largest strength of judges. (updated Oct 2019) 3 Company Bagh (Alfred Park or Chandrashekhar Azad Park), Panna Lal Road. It is the place to experience the British era of Indian history. The park came up in 1870 during the visit of Prince Alfred (second son of Queen Victoria) and was named after him. It also came to be known as Company Bag. It is the largest park in Prayagraj and covers an area of 133 acres. Encircled in this park are Allahabad Museum (for details see Museum section), Victoria memorial and the public library. It was in this park where freedom fighter Chandrashekhar Azad shot himself with his last bullet on 27 Feb 1931. A memorial stands in his memory at the foot of the tree, where he shot himself. Located nearby is a full length statue of the freedom fighter. Post independence the park was renamed as Chandrashekhar Azad Park. ₹5rs. (updated Feb 2019) 4 Victorial Memorial (Inside Chandrashekhar Azad Park). Victoria Memorial is not a memorial but a canopy, which once housed the imposing marble statue of Queen Victoria. The impressive marble canopy along with the statue was installed in 1905 and was inaugurated by Sir James John Digges La Touche, the governor of United Provinces of Agra and Oudh. In 1960s the statue of Queen Victoria was removed and shifted to the Municipal Museum in Lucknow. The canopy has been vacant ever since. (updated Feb 2019) 5 Thornhill Mayne Memorial (Allahabad Public Library), Chandra Sekhar Azad Park, ☏ +91 532 2460197, [email protected]. The marvelous monuments is perched in Company Garden. The monument served as the house of the legislative assembly during the British era, when Allahabad was the capital of United Provinces. It has been converted to the Public Library. The monument is beautifully carved from white sandstone and is drenched in Gothic serenity. 6 Khusro bagh. 08:00-20:00. Khusro Bagh is a walled Mughal styled garden and burial chamber located just south of the Allahabad (Prayagraj) J

Do

Boating and bathing at Sangam. A dip in the holy Sangam of the Ganga, Yamuna and the mythical Saraswati is a must for the spiritually inclined. It is a sacred holy site for Hindus. According to Vedic literature and myths it is called Triveni Sangam because three rivers meet up here namely the holy Ganga, Yamuna and mythical Saraswati which is believed to be flowing beneath the surface. At the time of churning of sea (samudra manthana) by Gods (Devas) and the Demons (Asuras) few drops of amrita (holy nectar that makes a mortal immortal) fell at four different parts of the subcontinent during a fight between Gods and Demons over it. That places are Haridwar, Nashik, Prayag and Ujjain and are considered holy and Maha Kumbh Mela is organised once in 12 years. Millions of pilgrims, tourists, ascetics, sadhu/sant (holy men) visit Prayag at the time of month long Kumbha for taking holy dip at sangam and perform religious rituals and ceremonies. Also Magh Mela is organised annually on January–February (Magh month of the Hindu calendar) and millions visit to take holy dip at Sangam. Take a dip at Sangam. Spiritual and refreshing. Sitting along the river banks and seeing the flowing water is also worth to be done. However sitting alone in aloof areas is risky for women and foreigners. Nagvasuki Ghat and Saraswati Ghat are suitable places for enjoying the serenity of river. Go at sunrise or after sunset to avoid crowds during Magh Mela. Walk in the Magh/Kumbh Mela area. The days which are best to visit Prayagraj falls in the Hindu month of 'Magha'. A stroll in the make shift streets of Mela area is blissfully energizing. Be sure to keep a close watch on your purse/day-pack, not flash any cash or wear expensive jewellery to avoid being a target for theft. Water sports in Yamuna. Various water sports can be enjoyed in the waters of Yamuna. Skiing, para-sailing, kayaking, canoeing, wind surfing enterprise, yachting boat, optimist sailing, water snookering, shallow water diving. Allahabad Boat Club is the organiser. 1 Jawahar Planetarium. 11:00-16:30. A place for those who are interested in astronomy. Shows are at every hour and charges are nominal. Children under age of 7 are not allowed.(Closed on Mondays). ₹20.

Festivals

Dussehra

Dussehra is an auspicious time to visit the colorful city. In every corner of the city famous 'Ramleela' is organized with zeal and enthusiasm. Every class of society participates in the festival. Ramleela of Pattharchatti and Pajawa are worthy of seeing. Famous 'Kali dance' is organized in Daraganj in late nights of 4th, 5th

Buy

Guavas are best bought in winter. The red-spotted guavas available in plenty (and at unbelievably cheap prices) are a major attraction. Mangoes in summer Namkeens at LokNath, Chowk Rasgulle. A type of gulaabjamun, 'rasgulle' (in vernacular language) are a speciality of Prayagraj cuisine. Some remarkable shops in city are near Madwapur Petrol Pump, in front of Kamla Nehru Hospital and Netram in Katra. Try to get the taste of rasgulla's at Dadoli Canal (Pratapgarh Rd) and at Rewa Road. Water from the Ganga. Small brass pots of water from the Ganga sealed with wax make a good souvenir, and are widely near Sangam.

Eat

Prayagraj can be a delight for those who are made for flavour. If you are in Prayagraj, then do not forget to enjoy the Mughalai cuisine of North India.Out of innumerable spots for having delicacies of the North Indian cuisine, a mere glimpse is here. Loknath area of the city may be your favorite spot if you are foody and comfortable with hustle and bustle of 'ilahabadi raunak'. Try chaat from the street side stalls.

Budget Cheap eats can be found at Chowk bazaar, the historic city centre. So take a bus and get off at Jawahar Square Chowk, then amble down the Loknath Line and tackle the stalls on both sides. This street is the heart of the historic city centre as well as its stomach. The smells are unbelievable. Great eateries are reported below:

1 Nirala Misthan Bhandar, 60-B, Loknath, Chowk, ☏ +91 9389066601. A sweet shop selling sweets like Indian chats and snacks like dosa, chole bhature and Chinese. All prepared in pure Desi ghee. (updated Jan 2016) 2 Hari Ram & Sons, Loknath, 16, Chowk, Rani Mandi, ☏ +91 94546 99618. Salted food products all made of pure deshi ghee (Samosa, Dal Moth, Khatte Channa). This spot was the favorite of Prime Minister Lal Bahadur Shastri (updated Jan 2016) Rajaram Lassi Wala. For a refreshing glass of lassi with rabri, kulfi or burfi (updated Jan 2016) In every area of the city there are options and variety for cheap foods. Below some tips:

The best crepes from rice batter and black lentils (Masala Dosa) are sold in the stalls around Motilal Nehru Medical College 3 main gate Cheap 'Dhaba style' restaurants are located near the railway station. They are a good option for having a heavy Mughalai nosh-up. Try 4 Milan Da Dhaba at Leader & Station Rd (+91 80049 22576). Baati Chokha Near High Court Chaat at Bahrana Triangle Kachauri (spicy snacks with normal thali) at 5 Katra Rd (University gate) Enjoy 'Paan' - Indian mouth freshener, kiosks at every step in the city

Mid-range 6 Cafe Coffee Day (CCD), Shop No. 3-5, Elgin Road. Daily 11:00-23:00. The Prayagraj outlet of the Indian café chain. popularly known as CCD, A trendy hangout for teen/young people. Sandwiches, veg burgers, pastries, coffee & tea 7 Domino's Pizza, Ground Floor, 31A/31, Plot No. QQ1, Sardar Patel Marg, Civil Lines, ☏ +91 532 226 0752. Daily 11:00-23:00. Veg pizzas, double cheese Margherita, Mexican Green Wav, Veggie Paradise etc. 8 McDonald's, M G Marg. Daily 10:00-23:00. 9 The Patio, Strachey Road, Civil Lines, ☏ +91 532 256 0123. A multi cuisine restaurant at the lobby floor of Kanha Shyam Hotel. Indian specialties are served at the second fl

Drink & nightlife

Pubs are very few. Glassy Junction at hotel Milan Palace, Civil Lines, is a good one to hang around on weekends. Another place that comes closest to being a pub is on the top floor of the Kanha Shyam hotel in Civil Lines. Some restaurants, like Hasty Tasty restaurant, Hotel Regency, and the Tourist Bungalow, all situated in Civil Lines, offer chilled beer and liquor. However, most other restaurants do not have liquor on their menu. Drinking in public is frowned upon, drinking in family restaurants is not allowed at all.

Sleep

Prayagraj is the host of the largest gathering in the world and rich in hotels in almost every part of the city.Details of a few of them are here.

Budget Various dharmshalas are available at negligible charges in old city. Daraganj and Kydganj have plenty of Dharmshalas which are freely available.

1 Hotel Kanha Shyam (Civil Lines), Strachey Road, ☏ +91 532 256 0123. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. 2 Royal Hotel, Nawab Yusuf Rd (near Allahabad junction Train Junction), ☏ +91 532 2427201, [email protected]. Check-out: 12:00. Used to be a royal stable but was converted into a hotel. Basic rooms are spacious with bathrooms, hot water, it's a bucket and scoop job. All in all, a lovely old building. ₹200-700.

Mid-range 3 Hotel Kohinoor, 10, Nurulla Road,, ☏ +91 532-2655501, +91 93071 44330. Garden, veg, non veg restaurant, 24 hour security staff & video surveillance in hallways. 4 Hotel Yatrik, 33 Sardar Patel Marg, ☏ +91 532 226 0921. 5 Valentines Hotel, 7/3/2B, Civil Lines, ☏ +91 532 256 0030. All rooms are AC with double bed. 24 hours internet. Open air restaurant.

Splurge 6 Clarks Inn Ajay International, A/2/D, Lal Bahadur Shastri Marg, Civil Lines, Opposite GPO, ☏ +91 93367 62824. 7 Hotel Allahabad Regency, Tashkent Marg, ☏ +91 532-2407835, [email protected]. (updated Dec 2020) 8 Hotel Grand Continental, 13, Sardar Patel Marg & Strachey Road, Civil Lines, ☏ +91 532 226 0631. 9 Hotel Milan Palace, 4/2, Strachy Road Civil Lines, ☏ +91 532 2421 505, toll-free: +91 5032 242109, [email protected]. 10 Hotel Polo Max, Civil Lines. This modern hotel is the only one in Prayagraj run by a national chain. ₹1800-2500. (updated Aug 2018) 11 Hotel Samrat, 49A, MG Marg, Civil Lines, ☏ +91 532 256 1200.

Go next

Agra there is an overnight sleeper from Prayagraj but it leaves at 11:15 at night and takes approx. 7 hours. Chandauli - Chandra Prabha Wildlife Sanctuary (Chandraprabha) Chitrakoot Lucknow Mirzapur - Vindham Falls Nandan Kanan amusement park - Water park with pools and slides Pratapgarh - Belha Devi Temple and multiple temples located in city of Pratapgarh Rishabdev Tapasthali - Beautiful Jain Temples in Jusi, about 15 km from Prayagraj on the road toward Varanasi. The place has arrangements for stay and food. (Call +91-532-2567067, +91-9956260218) Satna by train - and bus to Khajuraho Tones river Varanasi Jaunpur (100 km): Meideval town with a fort along with several mosques and tombs