Porto Alegre

Understand

Porto Alegre is the state capital of Rio Grande do Sul and the biggest urban agglomeration of Southern Brazil. Situated geographically and culturally midway between São Paulo and Buenos Aires, Porto Alegre developed its distinct flavor of Portuguese heritage under the influence of other European immigrants and a variety of other ethnic groups. It is one of the richest cities in the country, the state capital with the highest life quality and literacy rate (97%), and the book capital of Brazil. However, Porto Alegre still suffers from many problems that affect big Brazilian cities, such as poverty of part of the population, lack of adequate housing, high cost of living, pollution, violence and traffic jams. Gaúchos, as natives of Rio Grande do Sul state are known, are very proud of their land and culture. In 1835, Ragamuffin War, a separatist uprising which declared Rio Grande do Sul independent from Brazil broke out. This war wreaked havoc across the entire state during 10 bloody years, killing nearly 20% of Gaúchos and ultimately leading to a peace treaty where the Riograndense Republic once again became part of Brazil. Another major Brazilian revolution also began in Rio Grande do Sul. The Federalist Revolution of 1893 defended the decentralization of powers and greater autonomy for the states, and only finished in 1895, after spreading to two other states. It was also in Rio Grande do Sul (Porto Alegre) where the Brazilian Revolution of 1930 which overthrew the president Washington Luis began, and so was from Rio Grande do Sul the most important Brazilian communist revolutionary of all times: Luis Carlos Prestes, who led the nation-wide communist upheaval in 1935. For such reasons, among many others, Gaúchos are particularly proud of their mother state, many considering themselves different from other Brazilians. Porto Alegre is now a service-centered city in between the industrial part of the state (north-east) and the rural part (south). Today, is also called the Mercosur Capital.

Climate

Due to its low altitude and southern location, Porto Alegre has a very variable humid subtropical climate, but is known for its well-defined seasons. Summer is generally hot and humid and the winter is cool. During summer, it is common for the humidity to get high, giving a feeling of muffling. However, the summer in Porto Alegre tends to be less rainy than in other Brazilian cities, like São Paulo or Rio de Janeiro. In winter, sometimes it is possible to have frost. Porto Alegre has a wide range of temperatures. Depending on the neighborhood in which you are

Getting there

By plane 1 Salgado Filho International Airport (POA IATA) (4.3 miles (7 km) from downtown). Porto Alegre International Airport is the main airport in Rio Grande do Sul and one of the most important in southern Brazil, with modern facilities and a shopping-like structure with shops and restaurants. It is among the ten busiest airports in Brazil. Improvements are being made in its passenger terminal, including the expansion of its airstrip. Flights come from cities such as São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, Belo Horizonte, Brasília, Curitiba, Florianópolis, Foz do Iguaçu, Montevideo, Córdoba, Rosario, Buenos Aires, Santiago, Lima, Panama City, Lisbon. Porto Alegre also has direct flights to Sal, in Cape Verde. It's served by all major Brazilian airlines (Azul, LATAM, Gol) and international airlines (TAP Portugal, Copa Airlines, Avianca Airlines, Cabo Verde Airlines and Aerolineas Argentinas). (updated Feb 2020) There is a train station (known as trensurb by locals) and bus stops near the airport. A people mover (aeromóvel) connects the train station with the airport terminal.

By train

A commuter train service known as Trensurb, serve only the metropolitan area, with one line connecting Historic Distric to some cities in the Greater Porto Alegre such as Canoas, Esteio, Sapucaia do Sul, São Leopoldo and Novo Hamburgo. The fare is R$4.50 and there's a station near Rodoviária (Central Bus Station) and the airport. It is more or less safe to walk during day time from Rodoviária or the airport to the stations. An automated people-mover (Aeromóvel) connects the first floor of the terminal to the local train station.

By car Coming from the North (Florianópolis, Curitiba, São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro), one may reach Porto Alegre by two ways. BR-116 is shorter, but much more dangerous. This road is used to reach other destinations in Rio Grande do Sul, such as Caxias do Sul, Gramado and Canela. BR-116 also connects all major metropolitan cities and traffic jams are frequent during rush hours in weekdays. One way to escape traffic jams during peak hours is BR-448, which links Porto Alegre to Sapucaia do Sul in the metropolitan area. The other way to get to Porto Alegre from the North is using BR-101 to Osório and then BR-290. The first connects Curitiba, Florianópolis and Osório, and is being upgraded to highway standards; the latter crosses Rio Grande do Sul from Osório to Uruguaiana, through Porto Alegre. The section between Osório and Porto Alegre is called free-way by locals, and is a very well-maintained 6-lane toll-road. Also, in neighboring Canoas, BR-386 begin

Getting around

The city is roughly a semi-circle that expanded outward in a concentric manner, beginning from the Historic District, right next to the promontory and the harbor. Avenues going from the center to the outer areas of the semi-circle are the radiais (radials) and are crossed by avenues named perimetrais (perimeters). Hence, to go to and from downtown one will use mostly the former, whereas to go from one neighborhood to another, one uses the latter.

By bus

To understand the bus system, one must consider the above description. All lines are identified as "(prefix)-number name/neighborhood". Almost all lines are radial, that is, they connect an outer neighborhood to the various downtown terminals. Those lines have no prefix. It is quite common to switch buses at downtown but, considering there is a myriad of lines there, it can be challenging to find the right terminal to hop on the next bus. Transversal lines (prefix "T" - T1, T2, ..., T11), connect different neighborhood without going through the downtown area, effectively eliminating the need of changing buses for the most common trips. Circular lines (prefix "C" - C1, C2, C3), as the name indicates, run in a circular manner, usually connecting parts of the downtown area to the nearest neighborhoods. The Porto Alegre city bus system is operated by the public company Carris and by four consortiums of private companies. With the exception of Carris, which has lines connecting all regions of Porto Alegre, almost all lines of each consortium connects the Historic District to a different zone of Porto Alegre. Buses can have different colors depending on the region they serve:

Carris serves all areas of Porto Alegre (mainly through the Transversal lines - identified by the prefix "T", i.e. T1, T2...) and its buses are ocher in color. Via Leste and Consórcio Mais has its buses in green. The lines connect the Historic District to the East and Southeast Zones of the city, respectively. Mob has its buses in blue. The lines connect the Historic District to the North Zone and Islands of the city. Viva Sul has its buses in red. The lines connect the Historic District to the South Zone. The PoaTransporte website provides a map with all the stops nearby and the buses that pass through them, in addition to the route that each bus line takes. Together with Google Maps this can give you a clue. It is very hard to find bus stops with indication of lines' destinations or timetables. Hence, when in doubt, the easiest way is to ask the locals which bus will get you to you destination. Porto Alegre's buses are, in most case

See

Linha Turismo is a tourist bus line that rides through 11 neighbourhoods and shows the main attractions of the city (parks, trees, statues, hospitals, churches, etc.), with audio guides in three languages. The trip is 28 km (17 mi) long and lasts for about 1 hr 20 min, and the arrival is at the same departure address. From Tuesdays to Sundays (holidays included), at 09:00, 10:30, 13:30, 15:00 and 16:30 (winter) or 10:30, 13:30, 15:00, 16:30 and 18:00 (summer). The tickets cost R$30 for a normal fare and R$15 for the student (Foreigners need to have an International Student Identity Card) . Travessa do Carmo Street 84, phones +55 51 3213-3464 and +55 51 3212-1628:

1 Monument to the Azoreans (Monumento aos Açorianos), Avenida Loureiro da Silva, 1155 (3 km/1.86 mi from Historic District; bus lines C1 and C2). It is a 17-m-high monument in the memory of the people from the island of Azores, who were the first to settle in Porto Alegre. Free. 2 Usina do Gasômetro, Largo do Trabalho, 46 (1.7 km/1.06 mi from Mercado Trensurb Station). It is an old powerplant built in 1928 which was refurnished and now hosts movie theaters and art expositions. During the sunset, lots of people get together in front of the Usina to watch the sun diving into Lake Guaíba.

Museums and art

3 Iberê Camargo Foundation (Fundação Iberê Camargo), Av. Padre Cacique, 2000 (Bus line 176), ☏ +55 51 3247-8000, [email protected]. Tu-Su 12:00-19:00; Th until 21:00. Contemporary art museum in a building by Portuguese architect Alvaro Siza. Free. (updated May 2019) 4 MARGS (Rio Grande do Sul Arts Museum), Praça da Alfândega, Downtown (downtown), ☏ +55 51 3227-2311, fax: +55 51 3221-2646, [email protected]. Tu-Su 10:00-19:00. The local museum of art. There's a permanent collection and an area that is often receiving new exhibitions. There's also a bistro and a store that sells art books and souvenirs. Free. (updated May 2019) 5 Museu de Ciências e Tecnologia da PUCRS (Museum of Science and Technology of the Pontifical Catholic University of Rio Grande do Sul), Av. Ipiranga 6681, Building #40 (Bus lines 476, 343 or 353), ☏ +55 51 3320-3597 (in Portuguese). Tu-Su 09:00-17:00. R$40 (R$20 for children under 12, seniors, university students and professors). (updated Apr 2022) 6 Casa de Cultura Mario Quintana, Rua dos Andradas, 736. Tu-Su 09:00-17:00. R$40 (R$20 for children under 12, seniors, university students and professors). (updated Apr 2022) 7 Museu Julio de Castilhos, Duque de Caxias, 1205 /1231, ☏ +55 51 3221-3959.

Parks

8 Parque Moinhos de Vento (Moinhos de Vento Pa

Do

Watch the sunset over Lake Guaíba. Porto Alegre has a beautiful sunset over Lake Guaíba. Best enjoyed on the waterfront, in places like the Historic Center (near Usina do Gasômetro) and Ipanema. This event only lasts about five minutes. During winter (around July) it is recommended to take additional clothes, as the wind can be very strong. Climb aboard the Cisne Branco boat. The Cisne Branco Boat offers a boat trip where you can enjoy the sunset over Lake Guaíba. The boat trip lasts an hour and a half and leaves at 17:30 from Cais do Porto and sails to the South Zone, accompanied by live Brazilian music.

Sports Watch a soccer game. Porto Alegre has two major local football teams: Grêmio and Internacional. Grêmio plays its matches at the 1 Arena do Grêmio, in the North Zone, while Internacional plays its matches at the 2 Beira-Rio Stadium, located on the banks of Lake Guaíba. Both Grêmio and Internacional (known together as Gre-Nal) are the two biggest soccer teams in Rio Grande do Sul and are among the biggest soccer teams in Brazil, with a strong rivalry in Rio Grande do Sul soccer background. Another smaller club that also plays in Porto Alegre is São José, which plays its matches at the 3 Passo d'Areia Stadium, in the North Zone, and competes in the state soccer league (Gauchão) and in the third division of the Brazilian national soccer league.

Events and festivals In September, watch a play at Porto Alegre em Cena, one of the most important theater festivals in Brazil, with several theater plays being performed around the city. In September, visit the Acampamento Farroupilha (Farroupilha Camp) and join the Semana Farroupilha (Farroupilha Week), a great festival of Gaucho culture, held every year at the Parque da Harmonia. Every year, Gauchos (South-American cowboys) come from all over Rio Grande do Sul and build a temporary complex of old wooden houses (locally called piquetes) to commemorate the Raggamuffin War and celebrate the traditional culture of the state. Come and experience the food, music, dance, and culture of southern Brazil's interior. If you're in Porto Alegre during this time, you definitely shouldn't miss it. Feira do Livro de Porto Alegre (Porto Alegre Book Fair). Held every year in November, thousands of publishers sell their books at Praça da Alfândega, in the Historic District. It is possible to find books at cheap prices at the fair. At the fair, autograph sessions are also held with local and national writers, as well as plays, storytelling for children and musical performances.

Buy

The main central shopping area in Porto Alegre is the Historic District, especially around the crowded Avenida Voluntários da Pátria. The main popular on the avenue is the 1 POP Center, a mall located in a building that has more than 800 stores where you can find many items, such as clothing, electronics and accessories at cheap prices. Another important place of commerce in the area is 2 Galeria Chaves. Located between Rua dos Andradas and Rua José Montaury, it is the oldest and most traditional commercial spot in Porto Alegre, with six floors of shops and restaurants and impressive historical architecture.

Another important place of popular commerce is the 3 Central Public Market, built in 1869 and reformed several times. It has more than 100 stalls selling a wide variety of products and local crafts, as well as several restaurants.If you are interested in local handcrafts, your best bet might be 4 Brique da Redenção, a large flea market near Parque da Redenção with lots of authentic gaucho art, handicrafts, furniture and handmade pieces. It takes place on Sundays, during the day, next to Parque da Redenção.

Shopping malls Shopping centers are scattered throughout Porto Alegre and are great options, not only for shopping, but also for leisure and entertainment. The vast majority of malls are located in the north of Porto Alegre or close to the Guaíba waterfront, although there are also smaller malls in other regions of the city. The main malls in Porto Alegre are 5 Bourbon Shopping Wallig (which has IMAX cinema rooms and is located on an important street in the north of Porto Alegre), 6 Iguatemi Shopping (the largest mall in Porto Alegre, with high-end stores), 7 Bourbon Shopping Country (located across the street from Iguatemi, it is the only mall in Porto Alegre that has a theatre), 8 Shopping Total (built in an old inactive beer factory), 9 BarraShoppingSul (with an excellent view of the sunset on the shores of Lake Guaíba) and 10 Praia de Belas Shopping (located a few metres from Guaíba Waterfront).

Eat

Budget 1 Lancheria do Parque, Avenida Osvaldo Aranha, 1086 (Bairro Bom Fim, across from the Parque Redençao), ☏ +55 51 3311-8321. 06:00-00:00. Has possibly the best cheap eats in Porto Alegre. Lunch is a very good buffet where the offerings are always fresh and tasty. The menu offers incredible fresh juices and vitaminas and they are big. Sandwiches include the traditional Bauru: steak or chicken with egg, cheese, lettuce and tomato on a special bun (meal size). X~s with excellent ingredients. Plates: steaks mostly. A great chicken soup. Risotto. Everything is good, much better than most lancherias. Despite what your Brazilian friends might say, the staff does appreciate a 10% tip, even though they rarely receive it. For the great service you will receive they will certainly deserve it! (updated Mar 2023) 2 Reçaka Bar, José do Patrocínio, 531 (lunch time) or 495 (dinner time) (Cidade Baixa), ☏ +55 51 3072-3249. Steaks, fillets, fries, salads and whatever you ask them to prepare. (updated Mar 2023) 3 Tudo Pelo Social, Rua João Alfredo 448, Cidade Baixa, ☏ +55 51 3226-4405. Serves simple dishes, such as beef and fries, but the quality is awesome and the prices are unbelievable. Buffet self-service on lunch hour. Expect lines during lunch and dinner time (updated Mar 2023) 4 Speed Lanches, R. Gen. Lima e Silva, 427 - Cidade Baixa. Typical sandwich of Porto Alegre; it's a cheap option. (updated Mar 2023).

Mid-range 5 Churrascaria Giovanaz, Venâncio Aires. An inexpensive churrascaria in the Cidade Baixa. You can eat as much meat (and side dishes) as you like. R$60-80. (updated Mar 2023) 6 Bar do Beto, R. Sarmento Leite, 811 - Cidade Baixa. Delicious options including typical Italian plates such as Fillet à parmeggiana (bovine meat covered with tomato sauce, cheese and ham). You can also ask for snacks or sandwiches. (updated Mar 2023) 7 Espaço Veganista, R. Vasco da Gama, 52 - Bom Fim, ☏ +55 51 3557-7710, [email protected]. Vegan buffet. R$26. (updated Mar 2023) 8 Agridoce, Rua Sarmento Leite 1024, ☏ +55 51 3392 7746, [email protected]. Tu–Su 12:00–22:00. Café with a strong antique, slightly quirky atmosphere and almost Alice-in-Wonderland decorations, with old chairs and curtains, dishes and suitcases adorning some of the walls, upside-down lamps on the ceiling of one room and old-fashioned keys on the menu. Tea, quiches, sandwiches, desserts, and other food, including good vegan options. R$30-50. (updated Mar 2023)

Splurge 9 NB Steak Ramiro Barcelos, Rua Ramiro Barcelos, 389 - Floresta, ☏ +55 51 3225-2205. Typical gaúcho barbecue, serve

Drink & nightlife

Porto Alegre's nightlife is basically divided onto three regions: Cidade Baixa, Moinhos de Vento and the Fourth District (Quarto Distrito). Although, several pubs and clubs are located throughout the city.

Cidade Baixa Cidade Baixa is an old neighborhood, filled with historical buildings and oldfashioned mansions. Most of the popular and cheap bars are located in Lima e Silva Street; they are the traditional xis (cheeseburgers) places, such as Speed and Cavanhas. In República Street, pubs and bars are fancier and more expensive too. Inside the old mansions of João Alfredo Street, several dance clubs party every night. The places are perfect to dance Brazilian popular music (called MPB) and samba.

1 Bar Opinião, Rua José do Patrocínio, 834 (4.2 km/2.6 mi from Historic District; bus lines 397 or 346). Since 1983, the Bar Opinião is a reference in the port-alegrense nightlife. With its newly extended physical space, the house can receive up to 2,300 people. The bar has had major improvements and offers a more comfortable structure now. In its menu, different drinks and tidbits.

Moinhos de Vento Moinhos de Vento is one of the richest neighborhoods in town. Its bars and clubs are more likely to be fashionable. Expect bars to be pricey. Along Padre Chagas Street you can find typical Irish pubs and cafes.

Fourth District Fourth District (Quarto Distrito) is a region in the North Zone of Porto Alegre that covers the neighborhoods Floresta, Navegantes, Humaitá, Farrapos and São Geraldo. The place is a region that has been revitalized in the early 2020s and is home to several bars, pubs and breweries.

2 Jardim São Geraldo, Rua Moura Azevedo, 182 - São Geraldo, ☏ +55 51 3508-6456. Is a pub with a colorful decor inspired by the tale of Alice in Wonderland, with live music. (updated Oct 2023) 3 4Beer, Av. Polônia, 200 - São Geraldo, ☏ +55 51 3574-6466. A brewery that serves a variety of beers and draft beers, as well as burgers and snacks. (updated Oct 2023)

Elsewhere Other options are:

4 Bar Ocidente, Av. Osvaldo Aranha, 960 (about 1.5 km/0.93 mi from Cidade Baixa; bus lines 476, 433, 436 or 441). Works as a regular restaurant. From night on, Ocidente is one of the trendiest alternative nightclubs in Porto Alegre. On Friday nights, parties aimed at the LGBT public. 5 Bar do Beto, Venâncio Aires Avenue, 876. Open every day from 17:00 to 03:00. The beer is always really cold, there is a good variety of dishes and snacks and the food is always delicious. It's a good place to flirt too. 6 Bar do Nito, Avenida Lucas de Oliveira, 105, ☏ +55 3333-6221. T

Sleep

Budget 1 POA Eco Hostel, Rua Luiz Afonso, 276, ☏ +55 51 3377-8876, [email protected]. Eco Hostel Porto Alegre offers excellent services and accommodations. The hostel is located in Cidade Baixa, near to bars, restaurants, and all major tourist attractions. Hostel offers swimming pool, wifi internet, games room, garden and bicycle rental. Breakfast included. 2 Casa Azul Hostel, Rua Lima e Silva, 912, ☏ +55 51 3084-5050, [email protected]. (in Portuguese) 3 Hotel Ritz, Avenida Des. André da Rocha 225 (Bus line C1 from bus terminal to 2 blocks from the hostel (circular centro)), ☏ +55 51 3225-0693, fax: +55 51 3225-3423, [email protected]. Quite a few students, and some others, living here permanently. Clean bedrooms. Internet, Wifi. Free use of kitchen. English and Spanish spoken. Dorm bed R$ 35, also singles and doubles. Breakfast extra R$ 5. 4 Master Express Alberto Bins, Alberto Bins Avenue, 618, ☏ +55 51 3025-4000, [email protected]. 5 Residencial Casa Grande, R. Elías Botome, 238 - Jardim Planalto, 91220-210, ☏ +55 51 99965-1072, [email protected]. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 11:00. Hostel with a friendly atmosphere. (updated Mar 2024)

Mid-range 6 Hotel Ibis Aeroporto, Av. das Indústrias, 1342 (about 800 m away from the airport), ☏ +55 51 3018-1800. Has easy access and also has an international restaurant. R$ 145 per night. (updated Feb 2020) 7 Hotel Ibis Budget Porto Alegre, Av. Júlio de Castilhos, 516 (Historic District, about 200 m from the central bus station), ☏ +55 51 3515-6444. Has Wi-Fi and breakfast. (updated Feb 2020) 8 Master Express Cidade Baixa, Rua Sarmento Leite, 865, ☏ +55 51 3018-3636, [email protected]. 9 Master Express Grande Hotel, Rua Riachuelo, 1070, ☏ +55 51 3287-4411, [email protected].

Splurge 10 Hotel Deville Prime Porto Alegre Airport, Avenida dos Estados, 1909, ☏ +55 41 3219-4004, [email protected]. (updated Jan 2025)

Go next

Parque Nacional dos Aparados da Serra (Monkey Canyons)- 120 miles (190 km) from Porto Alegre going on BR101 by Praia Grande/SC or RS-020 by Cambará. Thousands of square miles of exuberant nature teeming with life. Miles of escarpments, innumerable waterfalls, rushing streams in an area absolutely undisturbed by human intervention--comprising not only tropical forest zones, but also the coastal, high plateau. And the coast--visible from the canyon’s rim. The unforgettable landscape is the result of immense volcanic eruptions more than 130 million years ago. For travel information, contact the RS Tourist Bureau ☏ +1 925-270-4190 (U.S.) São Miguel das Missões - Near the border with Argentina, has a UNESCO-listed World Heritage Site Gramado - a German-themed tourist city in the Serra Gaúcha. This is a great city to visit during Christmas (November through early January). Caminhos de Pedra in Bento Gonçalves and Caxias do Sul - Visit original houses of Italian immigrants in the region along this road. Many of the homes have been converted into restaurants and stores selling wine, grape juice, other products derived from grapes and arts and crafts from the Serra Gaúcha region.