Phnom Penh

Understand

Phnom Penh was largely depopulated during the Khmer Rouge regime, with most of its population deported to camps in the countryside. It was liberated from the Khmer Rouge by the Vietnamese in 1979, and has long remained a bit rough. Things have improved; however, some roads remain shabby, traffic is persistently chaotic, and electricity is occasionally strained (never mind your precious internet). But on the whole, the city is reasonably modern.

The city has gained high-rise buildings and traffic lights. The beauty that made it a "Paris of the East" before 1970 is unfortunately well hidden, though a few French colonial buildings remain. The wide boulevards and promenades envisaged by the French have become parking spaces and market stalls: pedestrians are not in favour. Over the last decade, the skyline has changed enough to be unrecognizable. Numerous new high rises have sprouted throughout the building, funded largely by Chinese capital. The most pleasant strolling is to be done along the park-like riverfront, which hosts cafés and restaurants aplenty. Standard tourist sights are few, which makes the city a place to watch the street life and absorb the local colour. Phnom Penh is a worthwhile destination for those who enjoy an "edgy" experience and can brave the downsides of reckless driving, noise, dust, and perennial theft. Touts and beggars abound in tourist areas. A firm but polite refusal should work. Older or disabled beggars will be happy to accept 500 riel. Anyone old enough to have survived the Khmer Rouge has had a tough life. Generosity here is no bad thing. Some older people may even invoke a blessing on you for your gift. Cocky young kids demanding a dollar should not be encouraged. The weather is hot and humid, with showers in the late afternoon in the rainy season.

History In 1975 Phnom Penh was choked with up to 2 million refugees from the war between the then US-backed government and the Khmer Rouge. The city fell to the Khmer Rouge in 1975, who completely emptied it of civilians and allowed it to crumble for several years. The city's small class of skilled or educated professionals was systematically murdered by Pol Pot, or driven into exile. Cambodia's developing economy and institutionalised corruption have concentrated wealth into a new class of nouveau riche that now frequent Phnom Penh's new fancy hotels and restaurants. Increasing tourist numbers are also bringing about improving tourist infrastructure.

Orientation All of Phnom Penh's streets are numbered. Some major thoroughfares also have names. The scheme is simple: od

Getting there

By plane 1 Techo International Airport (KTI IATA). The new airport of Phnom Penh, which replaced the former Phnom Penh International Airport from 9 September 2025. The new airport is nearly 20 km from the city centre, so allocate sufficient time for traffic. (updated Aug 2025) Getting there and away (Techo International Airport):

By bus – Airport Express Bus (AEB) service operates from 05:30 to 23:30 and terminates at Kouch Kanong Roundabout Bus Station, stopping at Canadia Garden, Royal University of Law and Economics and BRED Bank and AEON Mall 3 Mean Chey on Samdech Techo Hun Sen Boulevard (bus stop AEB 7), download free City Bus app to live track buses, search for AEB to find the airport route. In order to get to the bus stop, walk straight out of the airport arrivals and all the way across the parking lot (approx 500 m), at the end of it there is the bus stop. Runs every 10 min for most of the day, costs 1500 riel (give exact amount, no change is given). Travel time is approximately 1 hr. Cope – Make sure you have smaller denomination notes to pay your taxi driver if paying in US dollars, and inspect them carefully for rips and tears before paying. One airport taxi driver scam occurs when you go to pay in dollars: after taking your note out of view, the driver will rip it slightly (which renders it useless in Cambodia) and then politely reject it. The hope is that you only have larger denomination dollar notes left, for which the driver will inevitably not have sufficient change. Show your driver how perfect your notes are upon paying, and make sure they agree that each note is acceptable before handing them over.

By bus With the financial support of China, Cambodia's main roads have improved considerably. The main highways that run on either side of the Tonle Sap from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, Battambang, Sisophon, Poipet (for Thailand) and other major cities and towns are well-paved and in good condition. The quality of buses runs the gamut, with the less desirable buses being a few dollars cheaper than more comfortable options. Safety standards are low and crashes (not always reported) are still happening, even for "quality" buses. There is no official bus station in Phnom Penh, but transport companies are spread around the city. Try the streets just west of the central market (Mekong Express, Phnom Penh Sorya Transport, Capitol Tours, GST Express), north of the night market (Giant Ibis), or the northern part of Street 109 to find a company for leaving Phnom Penh. Bus companies will also return to these places if their office is there and w

Getting around

Phnom Penh's main streets are in good shape. Some smaller streets and footpaths are rutted and potholed, clogged with garbage, stagnant water, parked motorbikes, sleeping people, and building materials. Street signage is clear and Phnom Penh is logically laid out (see orientation) and navigating is not too difficult.

By motorbike Motorbikes (but not self-drive cars) can be rented for US$5–6 per day, sometimes through guesthouses. Traffic is chaotic and dangerous, even by SE Asian standards. Wear a helmet and drive carefully. Two rental shops are on Monivong Blvd: Lucky Bike Rental and New Bike Rental. Accept that paying US$1–2 police "fines" is part of driving. Theft is common: park in designated guarded areas and pay a small parking fee or use a lock and chain, which should be provided. Motorbike-taxis (motodops or simply motos) should take you anywhere cheaply. A trip from Sisowath Quay to Central Market costs about 2,000 riel. Fares are higher at night and with more than one passenger. Often, little English is spoken. No helmets are provided.

By taxi Taxis can be found in tourist areas such as the riverfront and Street 51 bar area in the evening. Easier, call one of the taxi companies for pick-up. Non-metered taxis still run throughout the city and can be found along the riverfront tourist area and near major hotels. Fares must be agreed in advance. Fares vary; your accommodation provider may help.

By tuk-tuk

Tuk-tuks (aka remorque moto), consist of a motorcycle with a cabin for the passengers hitched to the back. They are cheap (Per tuk-tuk: US$2–3 for a trip in the city, US$8 to the airport) and plentiful. Driving standards vary. Drivers in tourist areas may speak some English. Drivers generally do not know their way around and may stop to ask for directions. PassApp tuk-tuks are metered three-wheeler auto-rickshaws. Several companies have apps that allow you to order one, uber-style. PassApp is one of the front-runners and works very well for visitors. It works out to be much cheaper than tuk-tuks and since the app shows the price, there is no haggling. Many of the drivers are not able to read maps so may need your help finding your pick-up and drop-off locations. The app can be downloaded for Android and Apple phones. Grab taxi app also operates in Phnom Penh, you can choose to book bog standard tiny doorless 3 wheeler tuk tuks and the slightly bigger with doors, Maxima tuk tuks, traditional Cambodian style remorque-motos (see the tuk-tuk type 1 photo), or cars of various sizes. Electric tuk-tuks: There are also electric tuk-tuk now, by

See

France's Cambodian colony was acquired late and largely neglected. Historic colonial architecture was limited to start with and has largely decayed. The Grand Post Office Building, Central Market and Raffles Le Royal Hotel are notable exceptions. Generally, any building in good condition, old or new, will be behind a big wall and security guards. There are also sites related to the brutal Khmer Rouge regime, three of which were added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2025: the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum housed in the former prison S-21, the Killing Fields at Choeung Ek, as well as the former M-13 prison west of Phnom Penh.

1 The National Museum of Cambodia, St 13, Sangkat Chey Chumneas, Khan Daun Penh (Opposite the Royal Palace), ☏ +855 23 211 753, +855 12 621 522 (mobile), fax: +855 23 211 753, [email protected]. Daily 08:00-17:00, last admission 16:30. Contains an excellent collection of art from Cambodia's "golden age" of Angkor, and a lovely courtyard at the centre. A main attraction is the statue of King Jayavarman VII (1181-1219) in a meditative pose. Other exhibits worth seeing include graceful statues of Hindu gods, ancient stelae (tablets) inscribed in Sanskrit and old Khmer, and artefacts from a prehistoric burial site. In the middle of the courtyard is the original statue of the "Leper King" (actually Yama, the Hindu god of death) from the terrace of the Leper King in Angkor Archaeological Park. The building is of some historic interest, designed in the early 20th century by a French scholar of Khmer culture to evoke traditional Khmer architecture. The pleasant little park in front of the museum is the site of the annual Royal Ploughing Ceremony, at which the success or failure of the coming harvest is determined. The gift shop has a small selection of books on Cambodian archaeology, art, culture, and history. US$10, youth US$5. (updated Jan 2020)

2 The Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, Sothearos Blvd (one block to the west of Sisowath Quay). 08:00-10:00 & 14:00-17:00. The King of Cambodia still lives here, but much of the palace is open to the public. The manicured gardens are nearly as dazzling as the colorful glass tiles of the palace roof. The two magnificent pagodas in the Palace Grounds, the Silver Pagoda and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, are among the few public buildings in Phnom Penh really worth seeing. They were built in the 19th century with French technology and Cambodian design, and have survived the traumas of the 20th century amazingly well. See them early in the day before it gets too hot. No photography is allow

Do

1 Mekong River Cruises. Boats leave every evening for a river cruise. Many provide snacks or dinners at sunset. Be sure to visit Mekong Island to see rural life. US$8. Meta House, 6, St 264, opposite Wat Botum. A German-Cambodian cultural center that's an outgrowth of Germany's Goethe Institute. Art gallery, bar, mini-cinema and production house. Shows free, high quality foreign and Cambodian films Tu-Su nights at 19:00 in the bar-lounge in the front yard. Institute Francais. Film screenings with few English subtitles, and more. Hash House Harriers. A running club that meets every Sunday at 14:15 at the railway station. US$5. 2 NagaWorld Casino. The only casino in Phnom Penh. Thunder Ranch Shooting Range (Near killing fields of Cheoung Ek). Shooting range run by a unit of the Royal Cambodian Army. For a pretty hefty fee you can fire everything from pistols to machine guns at paper targets. Moto drivers, apparently oblivious of the reaction most visitors have, will try to include this in a trip to the killing fields and will take a nice commission for taking you there. Pistol US$20; AK-47 (30 rounds) US$40; rocket launcher US$350.

Buy

Money

Money changers, particular the common Wing agents, are plentiful near the central market and display their rates on boards. But also elsewhere in the city, the green Wing offices can be found. Rates for US dollars are absurdly competitive with a buy-sell spread of often less than 0.5% (not 5%!). So, it doesn't barely make sense to shop around for the best rate. There are plenty of ATMs dispensing US dollars and riel with international cards. Typical withdrawal charges are US$5 regardless of amount withdrawn, typically US$450 is the maximum. Canadia Bank charge US$5 per transaction, maximum single withdrawal US$500. There are many ABA Bank branches, which charge $6 for withdrawal of US$500, $8 if over $500. Most banks are happy to change big notes to smaller ones or change damaged notes.

Shopping Popular tourist buys include silk, silverware, handicrafts and curios (including Buddha figures), and made-to-order clothes (which are often of good quality). If you want to support businesses that are noted for supporting Cambodia's culture and heritage, look for the Heritage Friendly Business Logo from Heritage Watch, an organization that promotes the preservation of Cambodia's cultural legacy. Cambodia may be a cheap place to buy Samsung phones as there is no sales tax, but it's best to buy from one of only two authorised dealers in Phnom Penh. One near Central Market has closed, and the other on Monivong Blvd. The Samsung one-year guarantees are only valid in the country of purchase. St 178, just north of the National Museum, is known as Artist Street and has many interesting boutiques. The Cambodia Antiquities Law (1996) bans the sale, purchase and export of Cambodian antiques, and since 1999 the US has banned their import. Consequently, most of the "antiques" sold in Cambodia are reproductions.

1 MI-A Japan (cnr Monivong). Japanese almost US$2 shop. Full of different kinds of items. Similar shops can be found in the Aeon Mall. Phnom Penh also has a Daiso shop. Hidden Treasures (Antiques), 9 St 148. Antiques, art, and curios from Cambodia's past and nearby SE Asian cultures. International Book Center, 154 Sihanouk Blvd (St 274, between Monivong Blvd and St 63); 250 Preah Monivong Blvd (near Central Market); 43-45 Kampuchea Krom Blvd (at the corner of St 215), ☏ +855 23 218 352, +855 23 222 822 (Sihanouk), fax: +855 23 721 368, [email protected]. Large barn-like bookshops selling mostly textbooks and other educational works. Has a small classic literature collection. Also sells stationery, electronic devices, sporting goods and souvenirs. Mo

Eat

What Phnom Penh offers some interesting culinary treats not found elsewhere in the country. These include French-influenced dining and Thai, Vietnamese, and Indonesian dishes. Pizzas, banana pancakes, and fried rice are always easy to find. The recent influx of Chinese capital in Phnom Penh has brought with it an influx of Chinese cuisine as well, including a significant number of regionally focused restaurants. Exotic treats:

Duck embryo eggs are sold at the southwest corner of Sokun Mean Bun St (St 178) and Norodum Blvd (in front of the green SSN Bldg) inside a big high school compound, together with days old hatched chicks to frogs (everything is eaten, not just the legs) dipped in batter and deep fried. Skewered and grilled pigs ears, chicken claws, and gizzards are sold in the Central Market at touristy prices. Pig intestines are sold at US$1 per 100 g, cut into pieces and splattered with sauce. Grilled small crabs, lobsters, prawns are also sold in the market. Chicken feet are sold in the open-air restaurants as you turn to the right at St 154 as you go northbound from Monivong Blvd. Bugs and other insects, especially the grasshopper, spider/crab, and grubs and pupae stage are sold along Sothearos Blvd from 184 St to 178 St.

Where

Budget 1 3-Pots Lady (at the southwestern entrance to Orussey Market). Irregularly present. This lady serves inexpensive and super delicious local curries with noodles and an immense portion of meat at an unbeatable price. The only catch is that you either take-away or seat yourself onto one of the tiny chairs around her place, but without any table to put your bowl. However, the dish is definitely worth the trouble. 6,000 riel. (updated Dec 2023) 2 Surn Yi Vegetarian Restaurant (ហាងម្ហូបបួស ស៊ុនអ៉ីស៊ីសុវត្ថិ), 15 Samdach Preah Thoamak Lekhet Ouk St (don't confuse it with the other vegetarian restaurant next door), ☏ +855 16 664 666. Vegetarian restaurant with a variety of dishes including Chinese and Western options. Order by writing the item numbers on a laminated sheet with the marker provided. US$3-5. (updated Apr 2026) 3 Warung Bali, 3D St 178 No. 25 E0, Royal Palace. Small, traditional Indonesian restaurant in a tourist area. (updated Dec 2023)

Mid-range The river front hosts everything from stand-up stalls to fine French bistros.

4 Anise, 57 St (near the corner of Sihanouk and 278 St). Comfortable, nicely decorated corner restaurant with free Wi-Fi and some good dishes from a varied menu, including SE Asian. Their club sandwich is excellent. Perhaps a little over-priced. (updated Dec 2023) 5 Aussie X

Drink & nightlife

Coffee The coffee scene in Phnom Penh has exploded in the last few years with several global chains present all around. But there are also numerous small and independent coffee shops to be found.

1 Cousin's Burger Coffee, 16, St 200. 11:00-21:00. French-run, French-style. Coffees as well as burger, fries and soft drinks. (updated Dec 2023) 2 Luxuries Cafe, ☏ +855 96 777 7552 (mobile). 06:00-23:00. True to its name this is a very comfortable and luxurious cafe. Has both photo drinks and food menus. Prices surprisingly not expensive. (updated Dec 2023) 3 Chhma Catfe, 3, St 178. 08:30-20:30. A cat cafe where you can enjoy a nice hot or cold drink in the company of lots of playful cats, when they are not sleeping or eating. US$1.5 donation entrance fee. Smoothies US$2.5. (updated Dec 2023) 4 Mr. Piccolo Coffee, 30 St 123, ☏ +855 10 934 353 (mobile). Good coffee and pretty decent cakes. (updated Mar 2025)

Bars Phnom Penh's most famous watering hole, the 5 Foreign Correspondents' Club (FCC), has been closed since 2018 for "renovations", and as of 2025 the building remains covered in scaffolding. It's still a local landmark often used for directions. Places to hang out after dark include St 136 near riverside, St 104 and St 108 near the St 51 corner, which all feature restaurant bars, hostess bars, and guesthouses. For a more upmarket bar and restaurant scene, visit an area called BKK1 that includes St 278 and St 282, near St 51 or St 308.

6 Bouchon, St 174 (next to Romdeng restaurant). 11:00-14:00, 16:00-00:00. French wine and cocktails bar with gourmet food. Famous for its near half price US$3 martinis on Saturday nights 21:00-00:00. (updated Dec 2023) 7 Cloud9 Skybar, #68 Street 136, ☏ +855 23 961 888. In the evenings at Sun & Moon Urban Hotel, guests and local residents can chill out in style at Cloud 9, the hotel’s rooftop bar, with cool beats, creative cocktails, and spectacular views over Phnom Penh city. Poolside BBQ parties and buffet dinners can also be arranged at this location. (updated Dec 2023) 8 Eclipse Sky Bar, cnr Monivong and St 232. Tallest sky bar in Phnom Penh, is a hidden gem in the heart of the city’s business district. From the roof of the 22-story Hyundai Phnom Penh Tower, the view of the city is breath-taking, and the soft mix of pop music in the background adds to the bar’s relaxed ambiance. US$3 Tiger draught beer. (updated Dec 2023) 9 Liquid, 3B St 278. Daily 08:00-late. Polished concrete, gun-metal grey floor, chocolate leather seats and fabulously backlit bar serving some of the best and most inventive cocktails in town. O

Sleep

Budget A good range of accommodation is available around the city. The budget traveller area was area known as Lakeside, near the now filled in Beoung Kak lake. The colony of guesthouses has been decimated, but not eradicated. Remaining businesses are desperate for clients, which makes prices very cheap. Guesthouses 10 and 11 still exist and offer rooms from US$4/night and US$3/night respectively. Services include such laundry, Internet, money exchange, ATMs, and restaurants, including an excellent Indian restaurant. St 258 (near the Cambodia/Vietnam Friendship Park), Street 51 (near Wat Langka) and St 111 and 172 also have some good budget options, with street 278 now hosting many budget hostels and bars that were once located on the lake.

1 #10 Lakeside Guesthouse (at the lakeside). Rooms US$6 (Apr 2023). (updated Apr 2023) Capitol 3 Guesthouse, 207Eo St 107, Sangkat Beng Prolit, 7 Makara (next to the Capitol Tours office), ☏ +855 23 211 027. Warm, friendly staff and quick laundry service. 5 floors of squeaky-clean rooms that are out of the direct sunlight and never seem to get too hot. No elevators. Free Wi-Fi. Single fan room with shared bathroom US$3, private bathroom US$4 (which always seem to be full), + cable TV US$5, + hot water and air-con US$8. 2 Dragon Guesthouse (near the Capitol Bus Stop). Rooms from US$7 (Apr 2023). (updated Apr 2023) Europe Guesthouse, 51 St 136, ☏ +855 92 763 078 (mobile), [email protected]. One of the cleanest and most conveniently located guesthouses you can find. TV, Wi-Fi, laundry, bus and flight tickets. French, English and Chinese spoken. Often the cheaper rooms are full. US$11-20. 3 Grand View Guesthouse (at the lakeside). Rooms US$6 (Apr 2023). (updated Apr 2023) 4 Indian Royal Halal Food & Guest House (at the lakeside). Rooms US$5 (Apr 2023). (updated Apr 2023) Khmer City Hotel (One street south of the Sorya bus terminal), 90H St 154, ☏ +855 23 224 538. Surprisingly good for the price. Free Wi-Fi. US$15-20. 5 Okay Guesthouse, 5 St 258 (Royal Palace area, near Hotel Cambodiana). Large and busy guest house with restaurant, terrace, Internet cafe. A good place if you like hanging out with other travellers. They show movies every evening. The rooms are basic but clean, the cheaper rooms are sometimes very small and do not have a window, the more expensive rooms on the 2nd floor are generally a bit better. Somewhat quiet in the evening. They provide food, rooms, buses & tours. The rooms are rather bleak and sad by Cambodian guesthouse standards but cheap and relatively clean. Check your bed for

Go next

Cambodia Sihanoukville, Battambang, and Siem Reap are within a few hours reach. Watch out for guesthouses profiteering on bus tickets. Several tour companies offer day-trips to Tonle Bati, which includes Ta Prohm, an Angkor-era temple not to be mistaken for the Angkor-area temple of the same name. Further minor connections:

Laos Buses to Don Det (US$19, 12 hr) leave at 06:45. The 27 hr journey to Vientiane costs US$46 and takes four different buses. The first leg is on the Don Det bus. Once over the border you'll spend hours on cramped minibuses heading to Pakse before the final stretch to the capital. The border is slow and bureaucratic, with endless form-filling and small bribes to officials, long walks hauling your luggage between windows (500 m), and no one much to assist with enquiries. There have been reports of various problems on the onward journey to Vientiane, from Lao companies not honouring tickets sold in Cambodia, to nocturnal groping. Prices May 2012:

Vietnam

Bus companies (Danh Danh, Kumho Bus, Hanh, etc.) for Vietnam can be found along Samdech Preah Sihanouk Boulevard (Street 274) south of the Olympic Stadium in Phnom Penh. As of 2023/2024, prices from Ho Chi Minh City to Phnom Penh are US$22–25, the same can be expected for the return journey. The following table for bus companies from Phnom Penh to Vietnam dates back to 2012 and may be outdated: