Niamey

Understand

History The comparably fertile area around Niamey has been inhabited for millennia by tribes like the Gurma, also found in Burkina Faso, but the founders of the village would be the Maouri, who settled on an island called Neni Goungou facing the current Niamey in the late nineteenth century, before coming to settle on the left bank of the river. In 1898, the invading French found the village a suitable location for a military base and in 1905 the city, located in a stable region, became the capital of the Territoire Militaire du Niger (Military Territory of Niger). Niamey was inhabited by about 600 people in 1901 when missionaries arrived in the village and increased to nearly 2,000 after the arrival of the French and its establishment as the national capital. In 1911, the capital was transferred to the newly-stable and more hospitable location at Zinder. However, tensions grew with the British colony of Nigeria (very close to Zinder) and in 1928 the status of capital was transferred back to Niamey. By the time Niger became an independent country in 1960, the city's population had ballooned to 30,000. Niamey's population had risen to 750,000 by 2005, and its status as the most populous city in the country was secure.

Climate

Niamey has a hot and generally dry desert climate with a short rainy season from June to September when there can be severe thunderstorms with occasional flooding. Rains can be unpredictable though and sometimes the rainy season means just a few showers now and then. As with much of West Africa, poor infrastructure leads to frequent flooding and miserable roads during the wet season, so it is best to avoid travel to Niamey from June–September (especially if travelling to nearby countries which receive even more rain). Average annual rainfall is around 550mm. The coolest and driest (and arguably best) weather of the year is between December and January with averages of 34/15°C (93/57°F) and no rainfall. In October, November and February the weather is hotter and still dry with 38°C (100°F) in the afternoon and 18-23°C (64-73°F) at night. March to May are the hottest months of the year reach regularly 42°C (108°F) in the afternoon (although 45°C/114°F temps aren't uncommon) and a warm 27°C (80°F) at night; all three months can see just a few showers.

Orientation

The city is divided by the Niger River, which is spanned by the Kennedy Bridge and the Chinese Bridge. The southern side is entirely residential, with the exception of the university by the river (Gamkalle area), and of little interest to tourists. The northern side s

Getting there

By plane 1 Diori Hamani International Airport (NIM IATA) (in the southeastern suburbs of the city along Route National 1, the main east-west highway in southern Niger). It's the only international airport in Niger (since the escalation of violence around Agadez).

International flights The five major carriers serving Niamey are Air France (Paris-de Gaulle), Royal Air Maroc (Casablanca), Turkish Airlines (Istanbul) and Ethiopian airlines (Addis Ababa) and Air Algerie (Algiers). Several African airlines also serve the city. As of Jan 2023, these include Air Burkina (Ouagadougou); Tunisair (Tunis) Air Algérie (Algiers); ASKY Airlines (Cotonou, Lomé, Ouagadougou); Peace Air (Kano, Abuja); or Air Côte d'Ivoire (Abidjan).

Domestic flights Niger Airlines operates flights from Zinder (ZDR), Agadez (AJY) and Diffa (DZRF) as of Mar 2020.

At the airport Immigration/Customs: Upon arrival, you will disembark the plane, walk across the tarmac and enter the terminal building. If you have a visa, you fill out an entry card and pass through customs (remember to keep your yellow fever vaccine card to hand). If you do not have a visa, you will not get one at the airport. You will be put on the first plane out. If that is the following day, look forward to a night in the police station. Earlier, you could get a visa on arrival for €30 but not any more. After collecting your baggage, you enter the main arrival hall which will be filled with porters (see below) and if you have organized a tour which includes airport transfer you'll see signs for it here. From the arrival hall, simply exit to catch a taxi or bush taxi. Airport porters: Porters in the airport are determined to try to help you carry your bags, even trying to take them from you, so hold on tight and continue to refuse politely if you don't want help. If you do want their help, tip CFA 1,000-2,000 or a couple of euros or US dollars. Currency Exchange: you can change money at the airport but not at a good rate. Because the CFA franc is pegged to the euro, euros will get the best exchange rate. The US dollar and pound sterling (Bank of England banknotes only) can also be readily exchanged, but most other currencies will either get a bad rate or will be refused. Flight confirmation Airport flight information, ☏ +227 20 732381. Air France, ☏ +227 20 733121. Royal Air Maroc, ☏ +227 20 732853. Shopping: A few shops open around the time of each flight, even in the early morning. Mostly food and drink, and a few small souvenirs.

Between the airport and the city

Taxi: For a more comfortable welcome t

Getting around

Addresses Street addresses were not devised until the 21st century for most West African cities. Niamey implemented one of the most efficient plans in the region between 2001-2002. The city has been divided into 44 sections (named and based largely on existing neighbourhoods) and each was given a two-letter prefix (for instance, "GM" for "Grande Marché"). Since the vast majority of roads lacked names, numbers were assigned to each road (even if it has a name); streets running roughly parallel to the river were assigned even numbers and cross-streets assigned odd numbers. Over 100,000 street signs were installed to denote these roads at intersections. Addresses were assigned by distance from the river, alternating even-odd on opposite sides of the street. Thus the address 4735, Rue GM 12, Niamey is located in the Grande Marche district on road 12 (which runs parallel to the river).

By taxi Taxis (small white cars) are plentiful and easy to use. They are almost always shared (1 passenger in the front, 3 in the back) unless you ask specifically to pay more to make it private. There are a handful of places where taxis will queue for passengers (airport, grande marche, etc), but most of the time you just stick out your hand towards the traffic, maybe give a weak wave, and shout for "taxi" or "taximan". The rate for a shared taxi is fixed at CFA 200 per person. Through the open window, tell the driver your destination and if he nods, or stays there, you're good to go. It is better to give a section of the city or a major landmark as the destination than giving an address. If he drives off, he wasn't going near your destination; just hail the next taxi. For longer distances the taxi driver will indicate it is double (CFA 400) by saying quatre cent (French), deux courses (also French) or wah-haku (Djerma) before you get in the car. If in doubt, confirm the price beforehand, especially if you are white and take a taxi near a hotel. The rate is CFA 800-1,000 if you want the taxi all for yourself. You should pay more only from bus station (CFA 500) and from the airport (CFA 3,000 or higher). Prices double after midnight. Oftentimes, taxis will wait outside hotels looking for passengers, usually they will try to charge more than the official rate or are only looking for single passengers (they won't stop for other passengers and will charge you accordingly)

By car There is a Hertz car rental agency in Niger that rents Toyota RAV4. It is very expensive.

See

1 Musée National Boubou-Hama and Zoo, Avenue Mitterrand, ☏ +227 20 734321. This complex was built in 1959 by the colonial French government as the L'Institute Francais d'Afrique Noire (French Institute of Black Africa), although the original museum was largely destroyed by fire in 1980. The museum is fairly small and run down. There are some Hausa-styled pavilions containing displays on Nigerien history & customs and exhibitions focusing on such things as traditional instruments, palaeontology/archaeology, costumes & uranium mining. The national zoo is depressing, mostly Sahelian animals. Other sites on the campus include traditionally-built dwellings, a small bar, and many handicrafts sellers. Bring water or buy it outside, as it is expensive inside. The exhibits and boutiques are closed in the afternoon 12:00-15:00 although during that time you can still see the animals and artisans. Entry costs CFA 1,000, a photography permit is CFA 1,000, and a guided tour (in French) costs CFA 2,500. There are two entrances: one on Rue du Musee and another opposite the Palais du Congres. (updated May 2022) 2 Grande Mosquée, Avenue de l'Islam. You can tour the Grande Mosquée, a gift to Niger from Libyan dictator Muammar Qaddafi. Just walk up to the main doors of the Grande Mosque and the guardian will greet you and give you a tour. Or arrange with him ahead of time: his name is Issaka and his number is 96.30.24.27. You pay “whatever you think is appropriate” but be aware that you will have to pay three separate times: the first time is a donation to support the upkeep of the mosque and their charitable activities; the second time is a small donation for the women’s room of the mosque, and then a tip for the guide at the end. So, you might pay CFA 1000/400/1000 per person but exact amounts are up to you. As part of the tour you can climb the minaret and take pictures. Tours are in French, Hausa, or Zarma. Not open around prayer time, Fridays, and Muslim holidays. He likes to rush you through, but take your time and enjoy it. You might need to “remind” him about the minaret. Dress conservatively; women must wear a head scarf. 3 Cathedral de Maorey (two blocks NW of Place Maourey), ☏ +227 20 733259. The largest place of worship for the city's minority (but still sizable) Christian population, the cathedral mixes local and European architecture & décor. This cathedral is very lively during sermons and churchgoers are finely dressed. Services are offered in French & Hausa, inquire at the Catholic mission (+227 20 733259). 4 Grande Marché. The largest market in Niger and

Do

Music performances The CCFN & CCOG (see above) frequently host concerts and with capacities of a few thousand, they can be quite lively. At the Centre Pour la Formation et Promotion Musicales (CFPM) there is a Rap Zone every Wednesday afternoon at 16:30. Often there are people just jamming underneath the trees. They sell instruments, and they give drum, dance, and guitar lessons. At the restaurant Djoumkoume in Chateau Un there is live music almost every night, starting around 20:00 or 21:00. Sometimes there is a CFA 1,000-2,000 entrance fee. To get there, take a taxi to Pharmacie Chateau Un. Then, instead of turning right to go to Idrissa Nems, turn left and you’ll see it on the left.

Along the river

If you have a friend with a vehicle or can rent one, you have several good options. Go to the Island Campement of Boubon, a half-hour drive up the Tillaberry Road. Cross the river for CFA 50/person and then on the island there’s a pleasant, reasonably-priced bar/restaurant. You can stay overnight in huts for CFA 5000. Another option is the Relais, a hotel campement on the river, open only on weekends. Just down from the Golf Club of Niamey on the Tillaberry road, they offer a reasonably-priced lunch, camel ride and pirogue trip; or just have a coke or beer and watch the river. The third option is Plage La Pillule, 10 km south of Niamey on the road to Say, just past the peage. Take water and lunch and rent out a shady spot in someone’s garden along the river. Canoe rides also available. Walk up the wash 2-3 km to the sand dunes. This “beach” is a favourite of well-off Niamey households. River trips do not have to be expensive if you do not need to see hippos. Rent out a whole non-motorized canoe for about 1000F an hour on either side of the river. Expect to have to bargain more around the Kennedy bridge and the hotels. To see the hippos, one way to do it is with Les Pirogues de l’Amitié, run by Sani Boureima, 93-80-69-51. From Grand Hotel, walk towards river. Turn into the first side street on the left and then go through the metal gate doors. They speak French, Zarma, and Hausa, and a tiny bit of English. The boat is a motorized, covered pirogue. You will have to bargain really hard. His starting prices are CFA 25,000-30,000 for 2 hours to see the hippos, but some have got it down to 15,000 with bargaining and patience. The boat fits 10-12 people. A day-long trip is CFA 50,000. You can also do a 2-day boat trip for CFA 80,000, and you provide your own meals and camping stuff.

Other activities 1 The Hippodrome (go to the Côté Chateau in the Grand Ma

Buy

Grande Marché One of West Africa's best, most diverse and calmest big markets. The market spans a wide spectrum of objects for sale, from retail goods and packaged foods to wholesale boxes of imported goods to hot, fresh meals. Narrow, shaded, aisles in a grid pattern contain a mix of fabric, tailors, household goods, sports apparel, automotive parts, flip-flops, head scarves, baby clothes and any manner of other goods. Goods and foods from around the country are offered for sale, and stalls offering imported items from West Africa and abroad are interspersed throughout.There's also a section devoted to handicrafts and traditional clothes, although other markets are as equally good or better to pick these. It was constructed in 1950 and rebuilt in 1987 after a fire (costing over CFA 5 billion), the Grand Market attracts an estimated 20,000 tourists a year. An electrical fire burnt over 1,500 of the stalls in 2009.

1 Niamey Grand Market (Grand marché de Niamey). (updated Jun 2022)

Petite Marché The main fruit and vegetable market in the center of town, can be unpleasant due to hassle, harassment, pestering, crowds, and severely jacked-up prices for visitors. The "Supermarche Haddad" is set up like a Western supermarket and owned by Lebanese men and contains mostly imported European (which means expensive) packaged foods, meats sliced-to-order, alcohol, and health/beauty products. You can get many of the same fruits, vegetables, and some meats and durable goods from other calmer, more pleasant neighbourhood markets. However, the selection of speciality items and beauty products is good (cereals, cheese, cookies, etc.).

Other good markets One of the cleanest and newest is the cobblestone-paved Marché Albarka, which is a good place for new visitors for a “market warm-up,” and there’s an air-conditioned SahelCom internet cafe outside (500F per hour, CFA 250 per half-hour). Another great one is Marché Bonkaney as this is friendly with a little bit of everything for sale. The Yantala market is pretty big and has a relaxed atmosphere. Nouveau Marché and Wadata Marché are other options. Wadatta has the added benefit of being next to the Wadata Artisanal Village as an alternative to the Musée as it is free to get in. Of course, at night, try the Marché de Nuit (aka Night Market) in Yantala. To get to each of these, just tell a taxi driver the name of the market.

Fabric-buying

As in other parts of West Africa, Niamey has a good selection of bright colourful pagne fabrics. Each pagne is 2 nm and it is generally sold in 3-pagne sets (in other words, 6 m

Eat

Be sure to try all the local specialties rather than only sticking to ex-pat restaurants. Niamey food is incredible, unique and not-to-be-missed. You didn't come all this way to eat the same food you get at home.

Budget Le Gawlo senegalese restaurant (on the other side of the road of the nouvelle cité EAMAC in the Plateau quarter, next to a Tuareg jeweller which is worth the visit as well.), ☏ +227 94010342. The restaurant opens during the day. Serves excellent senegalese dishes (not the fatty, oil-saturated dishes that you often find) for CFA 1,500, They also offer a range of natural juices like bissap, jus de baobab and ginger for CFA 250 a glass. (updated May 2022). Baobab Senegalese Restaurant (Take a taxi to “Rond Point Maourey” and from there take the street that heads towards the Grand Marché. In less than a half-block you will see its old Maggi sign on the right. Alternately, take a taxi to “Grande Marché – Côté Maourey” and start walking towards Rond Point Maourey; you will see it on the left.). Opens at 12:30, but the food arrives at 14:00. At night food is served from 19:00. Favourites include sauce d’arachide (peanut sauce) for CFA 800 including beef (more for chicken or fish), yassa (onion-based Senegalese specialty with veggies and meat) for CFA 800 including beef (more for chicken or fish) and spaghetti-poisson (spaghetti and fish) for CFA 2,000. They also have good bisap (sweetened hibiscus leave drink) for CFA 200 a small bottle. By some accounts, the best Senegalese food in Niamey. Good place to go if you are in the neighbourhood of either Grande Marché or Petite Marché. (updated May 2022) Fast Food de L’Année. Delicious hamburgers for CFA 800 or teazburgers (cheeseburgers) for CFA 1,400. Probably the best burgers (stuffed with fries) in town. They also have egg burgers for the vegetarians, fries, omelettes, tuna burgers and lots of other stuff including soft drinks. There are two locations: 1) Take a taxi to “Centre Cultural Oumarou Ganda”, north of the Grande Mosquée. From there, walk north towards the yellow Sonitrav sign and look for their shop on corner of the next crossroads; 2) Take a taxi to Rond Point Grand Hotel and they are on the west side of the round point on the road that heads down to the Kennedy Bridge. (updated May 2022) Ghanaian Restaurant (take a taxi to “Balafon – Pharmacie Independence” (just north of the Grand Marché); the restaurant is directly across the street from Pharmacie Independence). Open for lunch (around 12:30) or dinner, but usually closed Sundays.. Try the fufu, delicious at CFA 500/bowl, gener

Drink & nightlife

Keep in mind that drinking alcohol is generally forbidden in Muslim culture, so take extra care to keep drunken inappropriate behaviour behind closed doors and out of the public eye. Most of the Western-style restaurants above also serve drinks, Cap Banga or Oxygène in particular have amazing river views, especially great around sunset. (See the "Eat" section)

Sorghum beer bars There are three Burkinabé millet or sorghum beer bars (called dolo or tchouk), all in Yantala Ancien, behind the French Embassy. The easiest place to start is to have a cab drop you off on the paved road that runs along the east wall of the French Embassy. Start walking along the dirt road that runs along the North (back) wall of the Embassy. You will pass a Christian Pentecostal church. Take the right after the church, then another immediate right, then the next left. She runs the operation out of her courtyard, is really nice if you are kind to her and her kids, and she will help keep the drunks at bay. Late afternoon is a great time to go. It is also a great cultural experience as almost everyone there is from Burkina. Take some ice if you want cool dolo. She has dolo on Wednesday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and sometimes Monday. Two different women make it on the other days of the week as well as the weekend. For the other two, it is best to go to the first lady, pretend like you did not know she was not serving that day, and tip a child CFA 50 to take you to the next location. Or, from Rond Point Yantala, walk towards the French Embassy a few blocks and then veer off on a diagonal road to your right. Take the next right, then a quick left into her compound at the end of a long and narrow path between her houses. The only problem is there are two diagonal roads: try the first one and then ask someone if you get confused.

Other bars

L’Epervier (The Night Market Bar), Marché de Nuit–Yantala. It's best to arrive just before sunset in this bar. Go in and get a drink plus street food (both outside and inside) at the cozy locals-only bar, when it gets dark. Then, go out on the street and shop for modern clothing in the glow of black lights amid the throngs of young men and women. La Legone, Nouveau Marché (Two or three blocks west of the Nouveau Marché on one of the diagonals coming out of the marché). A bar for the locals. It has a great feel and is tucked away in the Nouveau Marché neighbourhood. The beer is cold and they have great fare for lunch and dinner if you are interested in local food. Well worth the trip to a local bar in a non-expat area. (updated May 2022) 1

Sleep

Budget & Mid range Homeland Hotel, Avenue du Général de Gaulle,, ☏ +227 20 732606. Good sized rooms in good condition as this hotel opened in 2004, though no river views and no swimming pool. Hotel Les Roniers, Rue Tondibia (7 km west of town), ☏ +227 20 723138, fax: +227 20722133. Traditional cottages with thatched roofs, though a great deal more upscale than the locals residences set in a pretty garden, with a good restaurant and a hip pool with loads of atmosphere during the evening. CFA 24,000 (single) and CFA 26,500 (double). Hotel Masaki, Boulevard Mali Béro (On Mali-bero just off the Stade road), ☏ +227 96 965324. Nice rooms, good music some nights, and great bar food. Run by a French man and his Nigerien wife. Attached gallery also has some interesting art on occasion (updated May 2022) Hotel Maourey, Centre Ville 144, ☏ +227 20 732850. Centrally located at Rond Point Maourey, this hotel has aircon, running water, a nice terrace, and a somewhat worn down look. Still one of the better mid-range options. CFA 35-40,000 per night. Hotel Oasis, Boulevard Mali Bero (Several blocks west of the Stade road), ☏ +227 20 752775. Over CFA 30,000 per night. Hotel Sahel, Rue du Sahel, ☏ +227 20 732431. Air conditioned rooms with showers, and several bungalows right on the river, with great views. Some rooms have been renovated. It's not the safest of neighbourhoods though. Hotel Tenere, Boulevard de la Liberte (A few blocks from Grande Marché.), ☏ +227 20 732020. 4 star hotel with swimming pool and a central location. CFA 44-60,000. Hotel Terminus, Rue du Sahel, ☏ +227 20 732692. Each room have own entrance from patio. Good restaurant. Swimming pool. Mission Catholique, Ave du Gountou Yena, ☏ +227 20 733203. A cheap and clean place to stay 2 blocks from Rond Point Maourey. Around 10,000F for a two-bed room. Officially it's only available to NGOs and other volunteers, but they have been known to take in polite guests. (updated May 2022) Villa Chinois (On the road of the Stade (stadium) almost to Mali-bero.). Very cheap government lodging that is open to guests as long as the government is not using it for a training. Less than CFA 5,000 a night. (updated May 2022)

Splurge

1 Hotel Gaweye, Place Kennedy 1, ☏ +227 20 723400. Four-star hotel: great view, older but decent conveniences (hot water, semi-functional central air-con). Don't walk near the ravine that runs near there to the centre of town as it's infamous for banditry. Great swimming pool and high speed internet. CFA 70-150,000. (updated May 2022) 2 Grand Hotel du Niger, BP 471, ☏

Go next

Koure West Africa's last surviving giraffe herd is just 45 minutes outside of Niamey (near Koure) and guided tours are available. Baleyara, roughly 2 hours east, is home to a large and vibrant crafts market on Sundays. A must-do daytrip. On other days, however, the rural town is barren and there are no hotels. Boubon, 25 km northwest on the route towards Tillaberi & Gao, is a city known for its pottery. Soil it taken from the banks of the river and formed into many different household potteries, set out to dry and fired in large open pits. Wednesday is market day here, and the easiest day to find public transport from Niamey. Other days, it might be necessary to take a bush taxi to nearby Relais and then take a pirougue to Boubon. W National Park is a massive park named after the 'W' shape of the Niger River in it and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Similar to the large game parks of eastern Africa except that the landscape is less open and more shrub-filled and forest-like and there is less of a presence of large herbivores than E.Africa. Three hours south of Niamey, it could easily be organized as a day-long trip, but to fully enjoy the park, an overnight stay is recommended. The conservation project ECOPAS is working to improve the park's infrastructure, protect its inhabitants, and attract tourists. ECOPAS's Niamey headquarters can be consulted for tourism info (☏ +227 20 72 53 48); they also sell printed books/guides for/about the park. Agadez While a considerable distance away (1,000 km), there are frequent bus connections to this city which once was the most popular tourist destination in Niger. The city is safe to visit, but due to the ongoing Tuareg rebellion, travel outside the city is not allowed. A permit may be necessary, so consult local authorities before taking a bus. A military escort is necessary for part of the journey to protect against bandits, don't worry, though, as travelling this route is safe (with escort).