Nara

Understand

Along with the development of Heijōkyō (平城京), the capital of Japan between 710-784 AD, Nara flourished under the influence of Buddhism, leading to the creation of an enormous number of cultural assets, buildings and books, many of which are preserved today. Nara has the most buildings designated National Treasures in Japan. While the Heijō Palace (平城宮) site turned into plain fields after the capital was moved to Kyoto, the shrines and temples were left on the east side of the palace (called Gekyo (外京)), and Buddhism remained influential throughout the following centuries. Another part of the area developed as a merchant town, notably in the Edo period, known as Naramachi (奈良町) today. Eight places in the old capital Nara have been inscribed to the UNESCO World Heritage Site "Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara" since 1998, including five Buddhist temples, one Shinto shrine, an imperial palace and a primeval forest.

Visitor information There are several tourist information centers.

1 Nara City Tourist Information Center (奈良市観光センター), 上三条町２３−４ (On Sanjo-dori.), ☏ +81 742 22-3900. 09:00-21:00. 2 Kintetsu Nara Station Tourist Information Center (奈良市観光案内所近鉄奈良駅), 東向中町２８, ☏ +81 742 24-4858. 09:00-17:00.

Tourist information sites The local tourist association has a multilingual guide site. City government website

Getting there

By plane Nara does not have its own airport; most visitors arrive via either Kansai International Airport (KIX IATA) or Osaka's Itami Airport (ITM IATA), for domestic flights. From Kansai Airport, Airport Limousine buses run to the two Nara train stations every hour (90 min, ¥2100). More frequent service is available by rail: if you have a Japan Rail Pass, you can take the Haruka limited express to Tennoji station and then transfer to the Yamatoji line for the run to Nara (about 80 min, ¥2400 without a rail pass). Otherwise, it's cheaper to take the Nankai Railway's Kūkō-Kyūkō (空港急行) express train to Shin-Imamiya, and then take the JR Yamatoji line from there (about 95 min, ¥1500). From Itami Airport, it's easier to take a bus, which departs for Nara every 1-2 hours (60-70 min, ¥1510).

By train

From Kyoto Station, the JR Nara Line and the private Kintetsu Kyoto Line will get you to Nara quickly. The Kintetsu Nara Station is closer to Nara's main sights than the JR Nara Station, and all-reserved tokkyū (特急) limited express trains leave Kyoto twice an hour, making the run to Nara in 35 minutes. On slower but more-frequent kyūkō (急行) services, the trip takes about 50 minutes and you may need to change trains at Yamato-Saidaiji Station. The trip costs ¥640, plus ¥520 extra if using the limited express. The JR route from Kyoto to Nara is a little slower, but is the most attractive option for Japan Rail Pass holders. Be sure to use the rapid services, known as Miyakoji Kaisoku (みやこ路快速), which run during midday hours and take 45 minutes. Regular local trains, on the other hand, can take around 80 minutes. Without a pass, the JR trip costs ¥720. A few Kyoto subway trains on the Karasuma line (running north-south) run directly to Kintetsu Nara, offering one-seat rides for those coming from the northern part of Kyoto city. These trains are designated as express trains to Nara - running local through the subway, then continuing to Nara as an express service. For example, a one-seat journey to Nara from Kyoto's Shijō subway station (connection with the Hankyu Railway) costs ¥900 and takes around 55-60 min. The fastest route from Osaka is to take the private Kintetsu Nara Line from Osaka-Namba Station, which also affords a pretty nice view of Osaka as it climbs out of the city. Kaisoku-Kyūkō (快速急行) trains run a few times per hour to Kintetsu Nara (35-40 min, ¥570). A few limited express services sometimes run over the route for an additional charge of ¥520. For Japan Rail Pass holders, JR runs up to three Yamatoji Kaisoku (大和路快速) trains each hour from Osaka, T

Getting around

On foot Once within Nara Park, you can walk to almost all the other major sites. The conventional round course (from Kintetsu Nara Station to Kōfuku-ji, Nara National Museum, Tōdai-ji, Kasuga Taisha and back to Kintetsu Nara Station) is about 6 km long, a pleasant walk for the typical tourist.

By bus You can get a Nara Bus Pass for unlimited travel on Nara Kotsu and Nara Gurutto buses plus discounts on museum admissions. 1-day bus pass covering most attractions in Nara area costs ¥500 for adults and ¥250 for child.

Nara Kotsu Bus Service. Adults ¥180, children 12 and under ¥90. The City Route Loop runs every 30 minutes. ¥220. Several temples are on the outskirts of town. Tōshōdai-ji, Yakushi-ji, and Horyu-ji are accessible from JR and Kintetsu Nara train stations without change by Nara-Nishinokyo-Ikaruga Excursion Bus line (Line No. 97).

Tōshōdai-ji (E-8) from JR and Kintetsu Nara stations (E-6, E-7), ¥240. Yakushi-ji (E-10) from JR and Kintetsu Nara stations (E-6, E-7), ¥320. Hōryu-ji (E-15) from JR and Kintetsu Nara stations (E-6, E-7), ¥760. See also World Heritage Tour in Nara.

By taxi Taxis are available at Nara but those who do not know Japanese may find it difficult to make the taxi driver understand where they want to go. You can hail a taxi through Uber app.

See

If you only have one day to spend in Nara, focus on Nara Park. With more time, though, there's more to see.

Nara Park

Most of Nara's sights, including temples, shrines and famously mercenary deer, are concentrated in Nara Park (奈良公園 Nara-kōen), a wide, pleasant space of greenery. According to legend, the god of the Kasuga Taisha came riding a white deer in the old days, so the deer enjoy protected status as envoys of the god; however, based on their current behavior, either the deer have lost the job, or the god has taken an extremely passionate interest in biscuits from tourists (¥200), empty food wrappers and harassing shopkeepers.

1 Tōdai-ji (東大寺). Nov-Mar 08:00-17:00, Apr-Oct 07:30-17:30; museum opens at 09:30. Home to the famous Great Buddha (Daibutsu, 大仏), the largest Buddha statue in Japan and one of the largest in the world. The Daibutsu-den, which houses it, is said to be the largest wooden building in the world and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The giant front gate, Nandai-mon, is guarded by two fierce, awe-inspiring protectors. It's also swarmed by deer, who know this is the best place to come looking for a hand-out. Through the gate is a stone path leading to the outer walls surrounding the Daibutsu-den. Follow the signs to the left to enter the inner courtyard, and if you happen to have a stick of incense with you, join the crowd around the incense offerings before you head onward. The Daibutsu-den contains four other giant statues. Once you've taken in the Daibutsu itself, walk around it to the left to see the other statues, as well as a few old tiles and leftover relics. There's a stand inviting you to sponsor a tile in order to help with the upkeep of the temple, and English-language fortune scrolls (omikuji) are on sale year-round. Take a final look at the Daibutsu as you leave; don't let the souvenir stand be your last memory of this incredible sight. Just before the souvenir area, behind and to the right of the Daibutsu, is a wooden column with a small hole carved through the bottom. Enlightenment is reportedly promised to anyone who can squeeze through this hole. In practice, this means a lot of kids have enlightenment in store (thanks in part to other kids who kick their feet to "help" them through), and all but the skinniest adults can only look on in envy. To the right of the entrance to the Daibutsu-den is a statue of the Yakushi Nyorai. Though a bit scary-looking on first glance, it's actually a Buddha of medicine and healing. Touching a part of the Yakushi Nyorai and then the corresponding part of your own body is said t

Do

Mount Wakakusa Fire Festival (若草山焼き Wakakusa-yamayaki), Wakakusayama, Nara Park. The night before the 2nd Monday in January. In case of bad weather the date may change, so call to check. Great fireworks and the dry grass on the slopes of this mountain is set on fire by two temples. The size of the burn depends on how dry the grass is. 1 Nara Visitor Center & Inn, 3 Ikeno-cho. 10:00-17:00. Learn basic Japanese calligraphy or origami. They'll pick out kanji that match the sound of your name so you can learn to write them with a calligraphy brush pen. Or you can learn to make an origami deer, something you're not likely to find outside of Nara. The teachers are charming, and the center has other cultural activities as well, and all the other information you'd expect from a visitor center. Free. (updated Nov 2018) 2 Shuni-e (Omizu-tori) (修二会 (お水取り)), Nigatsu-dō, Todai-ji. Mar 1-14, evening. An annual Buddhist memorial service that has been carried out first in 752 AD and continues today without a year off. Priests run around the Nigatsu-dō carrying large flaming torches. Nara Tōka-e (なら燈火会). Aug 6-15. An annual light festival. 10,000 candles illuminate the area around Nara Park and major temples. Deer-horn Cutting Ceremony, Rokuen, Nara Park. October. Deer have their horns cut to prevent people from being injured. 3 Naramachi (奈良町) (10 minutes on foot south of Kintetsu Nara station). The neighborhood, founded in the 8th century when Heijōkyō was the capital of Japan, today contains several small museums, machiya (町家) (traditional Japanese merchant houses from Edo Period), unique cafes and restaurants. (David Bowie is rumored to have owned a house here.) It's well worth the time to stop and do a tasting at Harushika (春鹿), Naramachi's fabulous Nihon-shu (sake) brewery.

Walking tours Saturday Walking Tour (meet the guide and fellow walkers by 09:55 in front of the Tourist Information Center on the ground floor of Kintetsu Nara Station). Apr-Jul, Sep-Nov: Sa 10:00-13:00. This tour is led by a professional English-speaking local guide. You will see old "machiya" houses and lively local alleys full of interesting sights. The tour ends near Kasuga Shrine and Todai-ji Temple so that you can visit these major sights of Nara afterwards. Adults ¥2000, children under 15 free. Nara Walk (meet the guide at JR Nara Station). Mar - Sep: daily 10:00. Tour covers popular destinations around Nara Park: Great Buddha, Todaiji Temple, Kofukuji Temple, Deer Park and Kasuga Grand Shrine. Reservations not necessary for regular tours. Private tours or tours in French ava

Buy

Narazuke (奈良漬), a local specialty pickle made of various vegetables and fruit and traditionally melon cucumber, is quite popular. The distinctive strong flavor comes from the use of sakekasu, the sediment of sake fermentation, and sweet mirin cooking wine. The pickle also has some residual alcohol. Nara is also famous for its calligraphy brushes, called narafude (奈良筆), which are available in the specialist stores on Sanjō-dōri Avenue. However, as these brushes are made with a special kind of animal hair, they are expensive and rare, and customers will need to make a specific request for them. Other brushes sold in the specialist stores will be less expensive than narafude, but still generally of reputable quality. Suitably, the city also has a famous tradition in producing ink sticks, or narasumi (奈良墨); in fact, Kobaien is considered to be the oldest ink shop in the country (founded 1577), and runs ink-making workshops where you can mix your own (it will be mailed to you once the drying process is complete). Lastly, Nara sarashi (奈良晒), or Nara fabrics are a local specialty. They used to be made of boehmeria variation plants in the older ages, but cotton has become the major material since Edo Period. Towels, handkerchiefs, blankets, blinds and many other cloth products can be found in stores on Mochiidono Shopping Street or in the Naramachi area. One other unusual local specialty is chopsticks and other small objects carved from the sawn-off horns of the Nara Koen deer. They should be readily available from any tourist stall in the park, but for best selection and prices travel east from Todai-ji until you bump against the barren side of Wakakusa-yama and turn right - the entire right-hand side of the street is taken up by two-story shops, with souvenirs on the ground floors and shokudo (Japanese fast food restaurants) up top. Just follow the throngs of students being herded there for a bite after seeing the sights.

Central City 1 Higashimuki Shopping Street (東向商店街) (starts at Kintetsu Nara Station and stretches about 250 m south). A covered shopping arcade with many souvenir shops and restaurants. 2 Yamazaki-ya (山崎屋), 5 Higashimuki Minamimachi (along the covered Higashimuki Shopping Street), ☏ +81 742 22-8039. 10:00-20:00. A well-known purveyor of narazuke. 3 Mochiidono Shopping Street (餅飯殿（もちいどの）商店街) (ends at the center of Naramachi, and connects to Higashimuki Shopping Street). Another covered arcade. 4 Sanjō-dōri Avenue (三条通り) (between JR Nara Station and the south end of Higashimuki Shopping Street). Many souvenir shops, traditional writing

Eat

A local specialty is kaki-no-ha zushi (柿の葉ずし), which is sushi (usually mackerel or salmon) wrapped in persimmon leaves, and originates from nearby Yoshino. Kudzu, also from Yoshino, is a very renowned product of Nara, which is used for making various food ranging from kudzu noodles (葛切り kuzu-kiri) to Japanese sweets (和菓子 wagashi). Somen (thin wheat noodles) from Miwa region (三輪そうめん Miwa sōmen) have a history as old as Nara. The noodles are served either hot or cold. Another well-known culinary product is shika-senbei, a rice cracker sold around Nara Park. Don't try eating it yourself though — it's meant for the deer!

1 Sanshū-tei (三秀亭), In the Isui-en Garden (依水園). W-M 11:30-15:30. It's worth a visit more for the attractive old house and garden than the menu, which consists of two very traditional dishes: mugi tororo (plain rice with ground yam, ¥1200), and unagi tororo (the same with grilled eel, ¥2500). 2 Hiraso (平宗), 30-1 Imamikado-cho (south of Sarusawa Pond), ☏ +81 742 22-3900. Tu-Su 10:00-20:00. A nice sampling of local foods such as kakinohazushi and chagayu (tea gruel, which tastes better than it sounds) are included in dinner sets miyoshino and heijou. An English picture menu available. Around ¥2500. 3 Okaru (おかる), 13 Higashimuki-Minamimachi (inside Higashimuki Shopping Street arcade), ☏ +81 742 24-3686. Th-Tu 11:00-21:00, open on W if it's a holiday. A restaurant specialized in okonomiyaki (お好み焼き), a pan-fried cabbage cake with selection of meat. Okonomiyaki is definitely shortlisted on Kansai people's most beloved dishes. A choice of western or traditional Japanese tables are available. English menu available. ¥530-1500. 4 Totogin (ととぎん) (inside Higashimuki Shopping Street arcade off the south-east entrance near the Kintetsu Nara stop), ☏ +81 742-20-1010. 11:00-22:00. A conveyor-belt sushi restaurant that won't break your wallet. Sushi is handmade and prepared fresh; just watch out as the different plates correspond to different prices so read the menu (both sides) carefully before chowing down. starting at ¥126 per sushi plate. 5 Yatagarasu (やたがらす), 13-1 Hayashi-kōji-cho, ☏ +81 742 20-0808. Daily 17:00-00:00. Fresh poultry from local farms cooked and served in many different ways (eg. grilled, fried, even raw) with a variety of either local or other regional sake available. Around ¥2500 depending on your appetite. 6 Maguro Koya (まぐろ小屋) (exit Kintetsu Nara station, and you'll see a fountain of a Buddhist monk; cross the lights to the other side of the big street there, and go into the small street that runs perpendicular to the big stree

Drink & nightlife

Yamato-cha (大和茶) is the locally produced Japanese green tea which is healthy and tasty. There are also numerous sake brands, among which is Harushika brand, produced by one of the oldest existing sake breweries in Japan.

1 Kuramoto Hoshuku (蔵元 豊祝), 28 Higashimuki (Nara Kintetsu Bldg B1F) (in the Kintetsu Nara Station concourse), ☏ +81 742-26-2625. Daily 11:30-14:00, 16:00-21:00. Operated by a local brewery, Nara Toyosawa. A popular drop-by place for people commuting back home on Kintetsu lines. Sake test set of 3 small glasses ¥350, snack and either sake or beer ¥500. 2 Harushika Brewery (春鹿), 24-1 Fukuchiincho, ☏ +81 742-23-2255. A highlight of Naramachi neighbourhood. Taste six sake flavors distilled here with accompanying narazuke for ¥500. The brewery will guide you through the different taste profiles (with varying dryness and fruitiness). (updated Jun 2016) 3 Nara Izumi Yūsai (なら泉勇斎), 22 Nishiterabayashichō. A small sake bar/liquor store where you can stand at the counter and join the Japanese businessmen coming in for after-work drinks. English menu available. Tastings from ¥200. (updated Nov 2018)

Sleep

As usual throughout Japan, make your reservation as early as possible for August (the time of yearly vacations and Bon festivals, when it is customary for the Japanese to travel to their and their ancestors' birthplaces) and around Christmas and New Year, and also in early November, when Shosoin treasures are on display at the National Museum. Cheaper accommodation may sell out or raise prices.

Budget 1 Ryokan Matsumae (旅館松前), 28-1 Higashi-Terabayashi-cho (off Sanjo-dori, close to Sarusawa Pond and Gango-ji; about 7 minutes from Kintetsu Nara Station and 15 minutes from JR Nara), ☏ +81 742 22-3686, fax: +81 742 26-3927, [email protected]. Check-in: 15:00-21:00, check-out: 10:00. The owners profess to be familiar with Buddha statue carving and calligraphy. Free wifi. No dinner, but you can get a Japanese breakfast for ¥900—reserve it the night before. (A Western breakfast is available too.) Single with shared bath ¥5,000, single with private bath ¥10,000, double with shared bath ¥10,000, double with private bath ¥12,000, larger rooms available as well. (updated Nov 2018)

Mid-range 2 Nara Washington Hotel Plaza (奈良ワシントンホテルプラザ), 31-1 Shimosanjō-cho (on Sanjō Avenue), ☏ +81 742 27-0410, fax: +81 742 27-0484. Nationwide western-style hotel chain. Rooms have internet at no extra charge. Singles ¥6900. 3 Tempyō Ryokan (天平旅館), 9 Higashimuki-Nakamachi (in the Higashimuki Shopping Street Arcade), ☏ +81 742 22-0551, fax: +81 742 22-0553. Japanese and western-style rooms available. ¥6500-8000.

Splurge 4 Kikusuirō (菊水楼), 1130 Takabatake-cho, ☏ +81 742-23-2001, fax: +81 742 26-0025. Deluxe Japanese-style ryokan inn. ¥40,000 depending on days and season. 5 Nara Hotel (奈良ホテル), 1096 Takabatake-cho, ☏ +81 742-26-3300, fax: +81 742 23-5252. Classic western-style hotel of deluxe class, since 1909. Room for ¥22,000-90,000. (updated Oct 2017) 6 Hotel Nikko Nara (ホテル日航奈良), 8-1 Sanjō-Hommachi (close to JR Nara Station), ☏ +81 742 35-8831, fax: +81 742-35-6868. A Japan Airlines group chain hotel. ¥10,500-27,000/room.

Go next

As the center of a plain dense with history, Nara makes a good hub for exploring the vicinity.

If you have three days, consider doing the World Heritage Tour in Nara, which goes to Asuka, Hōryūji, and Yoshino. Kashihara — the site of Japan's capital city, Fujiwarakyo (藤原京), before Nara. Tenri Ikoma Uda Sakurai Yamatokoriyama Kizugawa Kasagi Minamiyamashiro