Nanjing

Understand

Nanjing is a renowned historical and cultural city, and it was the capital of several dynasties over the course of Chinese history. Its name means "southern capital" (Beijing is "northern capital"). It has many historical sites including the tomb of the first emperor of the Ming Dynasty that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was the capital of the Republic of China under the Kuomintang from 1927 until their retreat to Taiwan in 1949.

History Human activity in the Nanjing area dates back over a million years. During the late Eastern Han dynasty, Sun Quan proclaimed himself emperor and established the Eastern Wu. In 229 CE he relocated his capital to Jianye; this was the first time Nanjing became a capital. During the Six Dynasties period, Jiankang (the later name for Jianye) served as the political, economic, and cultural center, making it the stage for the development of Six Dynasties’ institutions and granting Nanjing a distinct place among China's "Four Great Ancient Capitals." In the Tang dynasty, Jiankang's prominence was deliberately suppressed, but its geographical advantages allowed the region to revive and flourish again. In 1368, Zhu Yuanzhang established the Ming dynasty and designated Yingtian (now Nanjing) as the capital. That same year, the Ming army captured Yuan Dadu (present-day Beijing), marking the first time Nanjing served as the capital of a unified dynasty, ushering in its second historical peak. The Xinhai Revolution of 1911 overthrew the Qing dynasty's monarchy. On January 1, 1912, the Provisional Government of the Republic of China was established in Nanjing, with Sun Yat-sen assuming the position of Provisional President. In July 1937, the Second Sino-Japanese War broke out. In November, Shanghai fell, prompting the Nationalist government, along with schools, factories, and other institutions, to relocate westward. In early December, Japanese forces attacked Nanjing, and on December 13, the city fell. What followed was a six-week-long massacre by the Japanese army, during which an estimated 100,000 to 300,000 civilians and prisoners of war were killed, a tragedy known as the "Nanjing Massacre." On April 23, 1949, Nanjing was captured by the Chinese Communist Party. Following the founding of the People's Republic of China, Nanjing became a centrally administered municipality under the Central People's Government.

Natural Environment Nanjing's topography is part of the Ning-Zhen-Yang hilly region. The city's main urban area is surrounded by the Zhong Mountain Range on its east, south, and north sides, while the Yangtze Riv

Getting there

By plane 1 Lukou International Airport (NKG IATA) (35 km (22 mi) from the city center), ☏ +86 25-96066, [email protected]. has connections to most Chinese cities and a few international flights from Japan, South Korea, South East Asia, Los Angeles, Finland and Germany. There is also an evening flight every day from Shanghai Pudong International Airport for international connections. (updated Nov 2019) There is a subway connection between the airport and Nanjing South Railway Station called the S1 line which takes half an hour and costs ¥6. Be prepared for a rather long walk between lines 1 and S1 at the South Station interchange. A taxi ride to the downtown area will take the same time but cost around ¥100. There are two express-bus routes from the airport to downtown Nanjing - one terminates at the North Railway Station and one terminates at the South Railway Station and connect with the subway and local city buses. The services run at 30 minute intervals, it takes more than an hour to arrive at the North Railway Station. A one-way ticket costs ¥20 and can be purchased from the kiosk outside the arrivals hall. If you're flying into Shanghai then it is best to catch a high-speed G train from Shanghai Hongqiao train station that takes 75 minutes and costs ¥139.50 (2nd class). There is a slower bus that runs four times a day from both Shanghai airports; it starts at Shanghai Pudong International Airport, makes a stop at Hongqiao Airport and then goes on to Nanjing Zhongyangmen. It costs ¥136 from Shanghai and the trip takes about five hours.

By train Also see High-speed rail in China There are two main train stations, 2 Nanjing Station (sometimes referred to locally as Nanjing North, on the north shore of Xuanwu Lake and is also very close to the Zhongyangmen long-distance bus station) and 3 Nanjing South Station. Both are very large and look more like modern airports, serving many destinations with high-speed rail links. Both are designed to have arrivals come through the basement and departures from the second floor. Nanjing South is the main station for long-haul high-speed trains to Beijing, Shanghai, Xuzhou, Zhengzhou, Jinan, Tianjin, Wuhan, Hefei and other destinations. For nearby destinations like Yangzhou, Zhenjiang, Danyang, Changzhou, Wuxi, Suzhou, Kunshan, you may find Nanjing (North) Station is more convenient. A trip to Hefei takes around one hour, and Wuhan 3½-4 hours. A ride to Beijing usually take 4 hours on a G-series bullet train. From Shanghai here are many daily departures to and from Shanghai Station and Shanghai Hongqiao Statio

Getting around

If you're staying more than a few days it's worth buying a Jinlingtong (also known as IC-tong). These are available from any subway station, most bus termini and from any branch of Huaxia Bank (look for an information window displaying the letters 'IC'). The card costs ¥75 and contains ¥25 refundable deposit and ¥50 credit, and can be topped up at the aforementioned locations. The card can be used on the subway, all city buses (but not all suburban buses), cross-river ferries, taxis (although drivers are reluctant to accept them and may tell you the scanner is broken) and in some Suguo convenience stores.

By taxi Taxis are a great way to get around and most trips will cost less than ¥25. The cab driver should start the meter as soon as you are picked up (all meters start at ¥9 + ¥2 service fee); if the cab driver doesn't start using the meter and if you don't say anything they may assume you don't know any better and overcharge you. Ask for a printed receipt detailing the cab number, kilometers traveled, times, and money exchanged from the driver upon exiting the cab. Don't expect to get a cab during both the morning and afternoon rush hours; demand is high and the drivers make their shift changes around these times. Tipping is not expected in cabs in China, so the price on the meter is the price you should pay along with a two yuan gas tax fee (There is an additional receipt for this fee.). Unlike cabbies in Beijing or Shanghai (who frequently shuttle foreigners around and may be accustomed to gratuity under the table) tipping in Nanjing is an alien concept. You are likely to befuddle but please a driver by insisting that they accept additional 'free' money. As with anywhere else in China, you are very unlikely to get a driver who speaks any English, so unless you speak Mandarin, remember to get your hotel's business card, and get hotel staff to write down your destination names in Chinese to show your taxi driver before you set off.

By subway

The Nanjing Metro is a clean, cheap, safe and fast way of getting around. The system has 5 urban and 5 suburban lines, with more under construction. It covers most of the central city, and links two railway station and the airport. The lines are as follows:

Line 1 runs from Maigaoqiao in the north to the China Pharmaceutical University (CPU) in the south, via Nanjing Railway Station and Nanjing South Railway Station. There are 3 interchanges: to Line 2 at Xinjiekou stations in the city centre, to Line 10 at Andemen Station, and to Line S1 at Nanjing South Railway Station. Services between run every 3 minut

See

The city pass can be bought for ¥100 at the entrance to any of the big parks in the city, such as the zoo or Yuhuatai Memorial Park and provides you with free entry to 21 different locations. You need to provide a passport photo for each pass and they are valid for one calendar year.

Central Nanjing 1 Xuanwu Lake (玄武湖), No. 1, Xuanwu Lane, Xuanwu District, Nanjing, ☏ +86-25-83614286, [email protected]. 7:00am-21：00pm. One of the lakes in Nanjing. There are three islands in the middle, all connected by causeways, equipped with a children's amusement park, a small zoo, and beautiful views of the city and Purple Mountain. Guests can also rent paddle boats. The lake's picturesque nature is a tribute to the beauty of Nanjing, which is so revered in China. free. (updated Sep 2023)

Parks and nature 2 Hongshan Forest Zoo (红山森林动物园), 168 Heyan Road, Xuanwu District (玄武区和燕路168号) (Hongshan Zoo Station, Metro Line 1), ☏ +86 25 85620178, [email protected]. 07:30-18:00, no tickets sold after 16:30. ¥40 (adults), ¥20 (students and children over 1.4 metres in height). Children under 1.4 metres in height and adults over 60 may enter for free. (updated Jun 2019) 3 Qinhuai River (秦淮河), Qinhuai River Scenic Area, Qinhuai District. Qinhuai River, a tributary of the great Yangtze River, is 110 km (about 68 mi) in length and covers a drainage area of 2,631 km² (about 1,016 sq mi). The river used to be called Huai River, and it is said that the river was channeled to the city of Nanjing during the reign of Emperor Qin Shi Huang, so it was named Qinhuai River from then on. Qinhuai River is the largest river in the Nanjing City area, other than the Yangtse, and is the 'life blood' of the city. There are many sites of interest along its banks, including Zhanyuan Garden, Zhonghua Gate, and the sights along the Taoye Ferry ride to Zhenhuai Bridge. Taking the painted boats to cruise on the Qinhuai River, visitors can not only admire the sights along the river but can also experience the traditional culture of Nanjing. Visitors can take boats at different wharfs to admire the scenery along the river. 4 Xuanwu Lake Park (玄武湖公园), 1 Xuanwu Lane, Xuanwu District (玄武区玄武巷1号) (The park's main entrance is a short distance east of Xuanwumen Station on Metro Line 1), ☏ +86 25 83614286, [email protected]. The Huanhu Road Area (环湖路区域) is open 24 hours a day. The Wuzhou Area (五洲区域) is open from 05:00 to 22:00 in summer and 06:00 to 21:00 in winter. One of Nanjing's lakes. Has three islands in the middle all linked by causeways, complete with an amusement park for kids, a small zoo, and lo

Do

1 Gingko Lake Pleasure Park (银杏湖乐园, 银杏湖游乐园 Gingko Lake Amusement Park, 银杏湖休闲度假景区 Gingko Lake Holiday Resort), 520 Yinxing Hu Avenue, Jiangning District (江宁区银杏湖大道520号) (take bus no. 870 from outside Jiyindadao metro station on Line S1. Get off at Guanyin Hall (观音殿); you can also get a free shuttle bus from the Zhengfangzhonglu metro station on Line S1; on weekdays, these shuttle buses depart only at 09:00 and 10:00; however, more frequent services are available on weekends and public holidays; there is also a free shuttle bus departing from Sasseur Outlets near the Mozhoudonglu metro station on Line 3; it departs at 10:00 only on weekdays but more frequently on weekends and public holidays), ☏ +86 25 86139999, toll-free: +86 400 1655520. amusement park: 09:30-17:00 (09:00-17:30 on public holidays), golf course: 05:30-17:00. Includes an amusement park, a golf course, a nature park, a shopping area and a hotel. ¥260 (adults), ¥170 (students), ¥125 (persons over 60 and children between 1.2 and 1.5 metres in height). Children under 1.2 metres in height can get in for free. (updated Nov 2019) 2 Royal Tangshan Hotel - Hot Spring & Spa (汤山御庭臻品酒店), 8 Quanyun Road, Tangshan Subdistrict, Jiangning District (江宁区汤山街道泉韵路8号) (express buses to Tangshan depart from Nanjing South Railway Station. The bus route includes a stop at the Nanjing Tangshan Easpring Resort, which is about 1.5 km by road from this resort), ☏ +86 25 8713 1188, toll-free: +86 400 115 3388 (domestic), fax: +86 25 8713 1188, [email protected]. Tangshan is a historical natural hot springs area in Nanjing and known as one of the popular places to enjoy great vistas of the mountain and it is surrounded by tranquil forests and lake. Royal Tangshan Hotel offers private hot springs room coupled with spa treatments to follow. With easy access from Huning Highway that provides accessible public or private transportation, Tangshan is the perfect place to enjoy the relaxing pleasures offered by the natural hot springs.

Theatres 3 Jiangsu Centre for the Performing Arts (JCPA) (江苏大剧院), 181 Mengdu Avenue, Jianye District (建邺区梦都大街181号) (about 1 km northwest of Olympic Stadium Station on Metro Line 10; bus no. 166 terminates at a bus stop near the east gate), ☏ +86 25 85437777, +86 25 85438888. 09:00-20:00. (updated Jul 2019) 4 Jiangsu Province Kunqu Theatre (江苏省昆剧院), No. 2 Chaotian Palace, Qinhuai District (秦淮区朝天宫2号) (about 840 m west of Zhangfuyuan Station on Metro Line 1 and about 920 m south of Shanghai Road Station on Metro Line 2; bus routes 43, 302 and 306), ☏ +86 25 84469284. This highly-re

Buy

1 Xinjiekou. Nanjing's fashion district, the cosmopolitan, fast-paced heart of the city bathed in neon. It's the closest thing Nanjing has to Tokyo or Times Square. All the major retail is centered on this area, which despite its complexity is only a couple of square blocks in size. There are giant department stores including Wal-Mart, Watsons, Suning, and "Fashion Lady"—a bewildering, subterranean complex of clothing boutiques and vendors that looks like a video game come to life. On the outskirts of Xinjiekou are some higher-end establishments selling everything from single-malt scotch to MINIs. The eight-floor Deji Plaza has a number of retailers such as Cartier, Louis Vuitton, Ermengildo Zegna, Coach, Guess, Versace, Vasque, Crocs, Toys R Us and so on. At DongFang Shopping Centre there's Gucci, Fendi, Celine and so on. While you might be able to get away with haggling at the Fashion Lady don't expect any in Deji Plaza. 2 Hunan Road. A slightly more low-key version of Xinjiekou, running between Xuanwu Lake and Zhongshanbei Lu. It has most of the same stores including the Phoenix International Bookstore which has a whole floor of English-language books. There is also a small pedestrianised street running south from Hunan Road which is lined with pretty much every variety of restaurant imaginable, including the usual KFC and McD's, several cheap jiaozi and noodle places, some more upmarket Chinese places and a handful of international restaurants including a Thai and Indian restaurant..

The area around the Confucius Temple. in the south of the city has a lot of shopping, especially clothing and tourist items. It is a maze of tiny individual shops, and fun to explore even if you are not buying. If you are interesting in buying, bargaining over prices is the name of the game here. If you are skilled in the art of bargaining you can easily get an asking price of ¥380 reduced to ¥80 without breaking a sweat. The streets outside the temple area provide more shopping opportunities, as does the underground mall. The entrance to this mall is sandwiched between two shops but the neon lights provide a clue. This is a Nanjing shopping experience you will want to return to again and again. Opposite Confucius Temple there's Aqua City Shopping Centre with retailers like H&M, Uniqlo, Zara, Mango and so on. While you are there, take a stroll through the temple, and over the historic bridge which offers great photo opportunities. If it's a cup of tea that interests you check out the little gold-roofed floating tea houses on the canal. 3 Chaotiangong (朝天宫). Daily 11

Eat

Local specialties include xiaolongbao (小笼包), thin skinned dumplings filled with soup and meat, that are served steaming hot in baskets and tangbao (汤包), which are similar, but much larger and filled with crab meat and soup. The soup in these is drank with a straw. Another local specialty is salted duck (盐水鸭 yán shuǐ yā), which is a whole duck that is pickled, boiled and then served cold. Restaurants serving these can be found all over Nanjing usually in small hole in the wall restaurants or dining halls (餐厅) for cheap. You'll usually be able to find them served alongside yaxue fensi duck blood noodles (鸭血粉丝) another local specialty.

Budget Nanjing has dozens of small noodle (miantiao), wonton (hundun), and pot sticker (jiaozi) shops on many of its streets. Qingdao Lu, a secondary street running northbound before the intersection of Shanghai Lu and Guangzhou Lu has a few excellent miantiao shops, including a Hui restaurant (Hui are a Chinese ethnic group that practices Islam), which serves only mutton and beef. Here, a massive bowl of hot soup and noodles will only cost you about ¥8. The area closer to Nanjing University has plenty of good, cheap eats, including a series of jiaozi vendors. At most Jiaozi shops you order and pay at the cashier desk by the entrance and you'll be given a ticket which you must take to the serving window. There are so many of these shops that it's not worth mentioning specific ones; just walk around and go into anywhere that looks good. If it's late-night munchies you're after, just head down any small backstreet and follow your nose and you're sure to find a small BBQ joint. These smokey little restaurants offer spicy meat kebabs (usually beef or lamb) along with BBQ'd vegetables, bread, fish and even sticky-rice balls and also serve beer starting at about ¥4 per bottle. Look for 真火烧烤 on baidu maps for a cheap and authentic Chinese BBQ experience, or 丽哲韩式烧烤 in the alley across from the gas station near the east gate of Nanjing Normal University for a more upscale Korean version. Street food is safe, cheap, and tasty. Just walk around the streets after 22:00 and you'll inevitably find some barbecue, wonton, fried noodles, or fried rice. In the Nanjing University Gulou Campus area, three great spots are on the intersection of Ninghai Road and Hankou Xi Road (宁海路和汉口西路) near the east gate of Nanjing Normal University, at the south gate of Nanjing University on Guangzhou Road (南京大学鼓楼校区广州路校门), and on Hankou road (汉口路) between the two gates of Nanjing University. Anywhere with more than 4-5 carts should have some tables to sit

Drink & nightlife

Nanjing's bar scene is constantly changing. If you are visiting Nanjing, it is best to talk to locals or expats who can show you the best places to go in the moment. There is a government order is in place to shut down all bars and clubs at 02:00. Some places remain open, however, so it is best to meet people who can take you there.

1912 District Night life in Nanjing is very much alive, and you can find the epicenter in Nanjing's 1912 District, which is comparable to Shanghai's Xintiandi. It is roughly a city block of two and three-story buildings, with paved courtyards between. Almost all are restaurants, bars or nightclubs, with a few spas and upmarket clothing shops in the mix. Many of the buildings look like they might have been around since 1912, and the newer ones match the style of the older ones. The location is great; right downtown just west of the Presidential Palace. There is underground parking for cars and extensive outdoor parking for bikes and motorcycles on the North side of the complex. The best way to experience this is to get there and hop between bars and clubs, buying some beer from convenience stores, and making friends along the way. Some more Chinese-style clubs will have free drinks for foreigners, but this free alcohol is low-quality or fake. To get here, tell a cab driver to take you to 1912 (yi jiu yi er), or take the subway to the Fuqiao stop on line 3 (浮桥地铁站) and go a few blocks south. The area is south of the intersection of Zhu Jiang Lu and Tai Ping Bei Lu (珠江路 and 太平北路) across the river.

1 Blue Marlin (around 1912 District Alley 11, west of 太平北路). Sports-bar style first floor, club on the second. (updated Apr 2022) 2 Ellen's bar (around intersection of 笼子巷 and 啤亭巷, one block west of 太平北路). An always-popular and chaotic expat bar, usually with African DJs. Although there's no dance floor there's many people dancing between tables and in any open space. (updated Apr 2022)

Shanghai Lu The area around Shanghai Lu, which runs between Nanjing University and Nanjing Normal University, has quite a few expats - mainly foreign students or English teachers from the two universities - and some places that cater to them.

3 Ellen's bar (intersection of Shanghai Lu and Guangzhou Lu). A dive bar popular with foreign exchange students. It is a western-style restaurant during the day and transitions into a bar around 20:00 every night. It fills up every night with expats and foreign students, as well as plenty of young locals. Most are drawn because of the atmosphere, music, and nightly drink specials. The drinks are plentiful. A

Sleep

Many accommodation providers, especially those in the sub-¥180/night category, do not accept foreigners. The yellow-exteriored 7 Day Inn chain, for example, will not accept foreigners in Nanjing even though this hotel chain is a good option in the ¥160/night range in most other Chinese cities.

Budget 1 Jasmine International Youth Hostel, No 7 Hequnxincun, Shanghai Road, ☏ +86 025 8330 0517, [email protected]. Clean place, very friendly staff and guests with decent levels of English; you might find only Chinese patrons here and most seem to come just because they like the hostel as opposed to the city. Free Wi-Fi on the ground floor and in the entertainment room. Bar and small menu if you want a quick bite without venturing outside. Bathrooms are all shared, however, and towels are available for purchase. Centrally located, (less than 5 km to most sites in all directions) close to Nanjing University and Grand Hotel. ¥45 for a bed in 6 bed dorm + ¥100 deposit returned upon check-out. 2 Nanjing Fuzimiao International Youth Hostel (南京夫子庙国际青年旅社), 68 Pingjiangfu Rd, Qinhuai District (秦淮区平江府路68号). A very good location right next to the most popular tourist street in Nanjing and is in the middle of the city. Very quaint; has a lot of nooks and crannies plus a bar area overlooking the river with a piano. A bed in a 8-person dorm room goes for ¥50. (updated Apr 2022) 3 Nanjing Danfeng International Hotel (丹凤国际青年旅館), 59-1 Yushi Street, North Floor 6 (三十路鱼市街站旁的华诚超市六楼), ☏ +86 025 8322 6770. Private rooms are spotlessly clean, and excellent size for the money. Although their listing on numerous websites says it is "wireless", each room is equipped with wired Internet connections (you can borrow an Ethernet cable from the reception desk). Those without can share the communal computer for free. Don't share a private room with anyone you don't want to see naked, as the bathroom/toilet is housed inside a strange transparent glass enclosure. Small dorm rooms (3 people/room) from about ¥50, larger single & double rooms from about ¥160.

Mid-range 4 International Conference Hotel Nanjing (南京国际会议大酒店), 2 Sifangcheng Zhongshanling, ☏ +86 25 8443 0888, fax: +86 25 8443 9255, [email protected]. Claimed 4-star with views of Purple Mountain. ~¥498. 5 White Palace Hotel (南京白宫大酒店 (Baigong Dajiudian)), 1 Longpan Road (Longpan Lu) Xuanwu, ☏ +86 757 88286768. Near Nanjing Railway Station.

Splurge 6 Holiday Inn @Aqua City (水游城, Shuǐ yóu chéng), No.1 Jiangkang Road at Zhonghua Road (corner of Jiangkang road and Zhonghua Road, near Sanshanjie subway station on line 1), ☏

Go next

Lake Tai is reasonably close, a common weekend getaway for Nanjing residents. Zhenjiang is directly bordering Nanjing to the west and accessible by train or bus. Suzhou, a city which is known for its gardens and canals, and is less than two hours away by fast train to the east on the way to Shanghai. Hangzhou, one of China's most popular tourist cities, is about two hours away by fast train to the south. Yangzhou is about one hour away by slow train from Nanjing. Huangshan or Yellow Mountain is a national park on the UNESCO World Heritage List and is 7–8 hours south of Nanjing by slow train. Hefei, an aggressively boring city known for not being a tourist destination, is a short train ride east of Nanjing.