Mosul
Iraq · Asia
About Mosul
Mosul is a major city in northern Iraq, serving as the capital of Nineveh Governorate. It is the second largest city in Iraq overall after the capital Baghdad and situated on the banks of Tigris. The ruins of the ancient Assyrian city of Nineveh, once the largest city in the world, are on the east side of the city.
Due to its strategic and central location, the city has traditionally served as a hub of international commerce and travel in the region. It is considered as one of the historically and culturally significant cities of the Arab world. The North Mesopotamian Arabic spoken in Mosul is known as Maslawi and is widely spoken in the region. Together with the Nineveh Plains, Mosul is a historical center of the Assyrians. The surrounding region is ethnically and religiously diverse; a large majority of the city is Arabs, with Kurds, Assyrians, Turkmens, Shabaks, and other minorities comprising the population. Sunni Islam is the largest religion but there are a sizeable number of Christians and Yazidis as well as adherents of other Muslim sects such as Twelver Shi'ism and Shabakism, and in the past, Iraqi Jews. Mosul and its surrounding region are significant in biblical history.
The metropolitan area has grown from the old city on the western side to encompass substantial areas on both the "Left Bank" (east side) and the "Right Bank" (west side), as locals call the two respective sides of the Tigris. Historically, essential products of the area included marble and oil. The region around Mosul is rich in oil reserves. Mosul is home to the University of Mosul and its renowned Medical College, one of the Middle East's largest educational and research centers. The city is also home to historic mosques, Christian sites, synagogues and Yazidi temples.
Mosul travel guide
Understand
Mosul is Iraq's second largest city and the major economic hub in northern Iraq. Located along the fertile lands of river Tigris the city's history dates back to at least 6,000 BC. On the eastern banks lies the ancient city of Nineveh, which was the world's largest city around 700 BC. Mosul has since thrived under different rulers, empowered by its strategic position and fertile lands. In recent history Mosul is mainly known for being the last stand of the Islamic State (ISIS). The fierce battle which took place during 2017 left large parts of the old city in ruins. While much of the city's heritage is destroyed, Maslawis are slowly rebuilding the city.
Getting there
By car
By bus From Baghdad: shared taxis are available from Allawi North garage in Baghdad. Cost is 25,000 IQD for a seat (likely 5,000 IQD extra for the front seat); the driver will usually cram in 4 passengers before leaving. The journey takes 4-5 hours. From Erbil: shared taxis are available at 10,000 IQD per seat. Journey takes 2-3 hours.
1 Garage Baghdad. Garage where shared taxis to/from Baghdad depart and arrive. (updated Oct 2022) 2 Mosul North Garage. Garage for northbound shared taxi departures, i.e. Erbil. (updated Oct 2022)
By train As of 2023 there's no rail service to Mosul, rehabilitation is however ongoing and the government has promised to bring back passenger trains from Baghdad.
3 Mosul railway station (محطة قطار الموصل). (updated Jun 2023)
By air As of 2023, the airport is closed and not expected to reopen within the next few years. The nearest international airport is in Erbil, 75 km east of Mosul.
4 Mosul International Airport (OSM IATA). Closed as of 2021. (updated Feb 2020)
Getting around
Travelling by car is the safest option for getting around in the city. Several bridges over the river Tigris have now been repaired, making the east-west journey much easier. There's no public transport system within the city, apart from mini buses and shared taxis. Extensive knowledge of Arabic is needed to use these.
See
Mosul was rich in old historical places and ancient buildings: mosques, castles, churches, monasteries, synagogues, and schools, many of which have architectural features and decorative work of significance. The town centre was dominated by a maze of streets and attractive 19th-century houses. There were old houses here of beauty. Markets were particularly interesting for the mixture of people who jostle there, such as Arabs, Kurds, Assyrians, Turcoman, Armenians, Yazidi, Mandeans, Roma and Shabaks. Mosul also had a sizable Jewish population.
Mosques and shrines Mosul is a treasure trove for those interested in historic Islamic religious architecture with dozens of mosques dating back hundreds of years. However many are in a state of disrepair or damaged by the war. Also some mosques might be off limit to visit for non-Muslims.
1 Great Mosque of al-Nuri (جامع النوري). Tradition holds that Nur ad-Din Zangi, a Turkoman atabeg of the Great Seljuk Empire and sultan of its Syrian province, built the mosque in 1172–1173, shortly before his death. the remarkably elaborate brickwork 52-m high minaret that leans like the Tower of Pisa, called Al-Hadba ("the hunchback"). It was destroyed during the last days of the Battle of Mosul in 2017. As of 2020, reconstruction efforts are ongoing. (updated Feb 2020) 2 Mujahidi Mosque. Dates back to 12th century AD, and is distinguished for its shen dome and elaborately wrought mihrab. Large parts of it was destroyed by ISIS in 2015. (updated Mar 2019) 3 Mosul Grand Mosque (جامع الموصل الكبير). A modern mosque still under construction on the right side of Tigris. (updated Jan 2020) 4 Mausoleum of Yahya Abu al-Qasim. On the right bank of the Tigris, known for its conical dome, decorative brickwork and calligraphy engraved in Mosul blue marble, built in the 13th century. Largely destroyed by ISIS in 2014. (updated Jan 2020) 5 Mosque of the Prophet Yunus. A site with a shared Jewish, Christian and Islamic heritage, this is the supposed burial place of Prophet Jonah. Located on a prominent mound just south of the Nineveh, the site formerly housed both the palace of King Esarhaddon (681-669 BCE) and an Assyrian church. However, a mosque was constructed on the site in the 12th century. The mosque was largely destroyed by ISIS in 2014, but parts of it remain. (updated Feb 2020) 6 Al-Raabiya Mosque. Built in 1766 with an impressive decorated dome. The site was damaged during the war but it being rebuild in 2021. (updated Jun 2021)
Churches and monasteries
Mosul had the largest proportion of Assyrian Christians of all the Ira
Do
1 Spring Theater (مسرح الربيع). Partly restored in 2021, this theater and music venue is home to several performances. (updated Apr 2021) 2 Baytna (مؤسسة بيتنا). Housed in a historic house, this cultural centre houses exhibitions and live concerts. (updated Jul 2021) 3 Mosul Forest. Established as a nursery to produce seeds in the early 1950s, this urban forest is a popular for picnics and hiking. The park was severely damaged during the ISIS occupation, but are recovering. (updated Jan 2023)
Eat
A number of restaurants, mainly on the eastern side of the city, have reopened.
Drink & nightlife
Alcohol is not widely available but in the aftermath of the liberation from Daesh a handful of bars have reopened.
Sleep
As of early 2020, major hotels chains have yet to reopen in Mosul, but there is a limited number of smaller hotels. The landmark Nineveh International Hotel was completely ruined in 2017.
1 Al Habda Tourist Hotel (فندق الحدباء السياحي في الموصل), ☏ +964 770 453 9305. Resort-style hotel along the river Tigris. (updated May 2018) 2 Al Sultan Palace Hotel (فندق قصر السلطان), ☏ +964 770 006 6027. One of few hotels that is open near the city centre. (updated Jan 2020) 3 Al Safir Hotel (فندق السفير), ☏ +964 772 900 9299 (WhatsApp). Hotel near the old city. 25K IQD per night as of October 2022. Fairly basic rooms with small bathrooms (squat toilet, no separate shower) but comfortable beds. At least one of the front desk staff speaks English, but some of them don't. Bookable via WhatsApp. (updated Oct 2022)
Overview adapted from Wikipedia, travel guide fromWikivoyage (CC BY-SA)。Photography via Wikimedia Commons.