Montreal

Understand

On an island in the St. Lawrence River at the historically highest navigable point, Montreal has been a strategic location since before the arrival of Europeans in Canada. A thriving Iroquoian town called Hochelaga was on the site of present-day Montreal when explorer Jacques Cartier first visited in 1535. In 1642, the tiny town of Ville-Marie was founded as a Catholic mission by Paul Chomedey, sieur de Maisonneuve. It soon became a centre of the fur trade. After its capture by the English in 1762, Montreal remained (until the 1970s) the most important city in Canada and was briefly capital of the province in the 1840s. Prohibition on sales of alcohol in the United States during the 1920s and 1930s made Montreal a destination for cross-border fun seekers from nearby New England and New York. The city built up a seedy, yet playful, industry in alcohol, burlesque, and other vices. In the 1960s, an urban renewal drive centred on Expo 67. The World's Fair in Montreal brought a subway system (the métro) and attractive urban parks and is considered to be one of the most successful World Fairs. Over 50 million visitors gathered in Montreal during this memorable summer. The 1976 Olympics left a strikingly idiosyncratic stadium and many other urban improvements. The opening of the Saint Lawrence Seaway in 1959, though much-lauded as an economic boom, spelled the beginning of the end for Montreal's economic dominance in Canada. Once the transition point between western railways and eastern sea carriers, Montreal watched helplessly as some of this business moved farther west, up the now navigable seaway, to ports in Ontario and on Lake Superior. The Quebec sovereignty movement, which began to pick up steam in the 1960s, further chilled the atmosphere for Canada-wide businesses, many of which moved their headquarters to Toronto. Following an economic depression in the 1980s and 1990s, Montreal became more secure in its place in North America and the world. It remains a centre of culture, arts, computer technology, aerospace, the biotech industry, and media for all of Canada.

Language 47% of Montrealers speak French as their only mother tongue, while around 13% of the population speak English as their mother language, and 33% speak something else. It is considered to be polite to start a conversation in French, but Montrealers will generally switch easily to English when they realize you don't speak French. At a minimum, start with "Bonjour, can we speak English?"

Orientation

It has been said that Montréal is the only city in the world where the sun "rises in

Getting there

YMQ IATA is used as the metropolitan area airport code for all airports and rail station.

By plane

1 Montréal-Pierre Elliott Trudeau Airport (YUL IATA) (☏ +1 514-633-3333 / ☏ +1 800-465-1213 ), also known to locals as Dorval Airport, is west of the city centre on Expressway (Autoroute) 20. It is well-connected domestically, and to Europe and the United States, but connections to the rest of the world are much more limited. Travel time to the airport from the city centre can be as much as an hour, depending on traffic. The 747 bus and taxis are able to use a special lane to bypass traffic. For Air Canada passengers, Landline runs a non-stop shuttle between the airport and the Palais des congrès downtown every 15–30 minutes for $9 one way. 2 Montreal Metropolitain Airport (YHU IATA), also knowns as Saint-Hubert Airport, is east of the city, and only serves domestic flights on Pascan Aviation and Porter Airlines.

Other airports Plattsburgh International Airport and Burlington International Airport, in the United States, are 1 hr 20 min and 1 hr 50 min away, respectively, by car from Montreal. Adirondack Trailways offers a bus service from Plattsburgh International Airport to Montreal. Greyhound offers a bus service from Burlington International Airport to Montreal. For travellers from the US, these airports may offer a significant cost savings compared to Trudeau but at the added inconvenience of arranging ground transportation between the US and Canada.

By car From Toronto, take Highway 401 east about 5 hr until it becomes Autoroute (freeway) 20 on the Quebec side of the border. It will then take about an hour to get to downtown. Be alert for frequent speed-limit changes along this road. To reach downtown follow the Centre-Ville signs and take Autoroute 720 (Autoroute 20 continues over the Pont Champlain bridge to the South Shore).

From Ottawa, it's about 2 hours east along Highway 417 (which becomes Autoroute 40 in Quebec) to Montreal. The portions of Highway 417 and Autoroute 40 between Ottawa and Montreal (west of the Autoroute 40 interchange with Autoroute 25) are part of the Trans-Canada Highway. From Quebec City, it's about 3 hours west on either Autoroute 40, or Autoroute 20 followed by Autoroute 25. Autoroute 20 west of Rivière-du-Loup and Montreal area portions of Autoroute 25 between Autoroute 40 and Autoroute 20 are parts of the Trans-Canada Highway. From New York City, take Interstate 87 north through Albany and the eastern half of New York State for about six hours. After the border crossing near Plattsburgh, the freeway becomes

Getting around

Montreal has historically been divided into east and west by boulevard Saint-Laurent, with the west side traditionally being Anglophone and the east side traditionally being Francophone. Numbered addresses on streets that cross Saint-Laurent start there and increase in either direction; most addresses are given as "rue ____ Ouest" (west) or "rue ____ Est" (east). Many streets are named after Catholic saints and figures from local history, both well-known and obscure. In Montreal street names, "east" and "west" refer to the direction parallel to the St. Lawrence River, and "north" and "south" refer to the direction perpendicular to the St. Lawrence River. Because the St. Lawrence River runs almost north-south near downtown Montreal, "east", "west", "north", and "south" are actually northeast, southwest, northwest and southeast respectively. Confusingly, most maps displayed in the city have "Montreal north" on top which can be confusing with a satellite navigation that uses pole north. Also, don't try to navigate by looking at the sun!

On foot Walking is a favoured way to get around the densely packed downtown and the narrow streets of Old Montreal, especially during the warmer months. However, beware during winter months, as sidewalks can be icy and extremely hazardous after winter snow and ice storms. Winter boots with good grip are essential for surviving pavements that have not been cleared. Beware also (as much as you can) of thawing ice falling from overhanging balconies and roofs. But you can always take the stairs down to Montreal's famous "Underground City" (Montréal souterrain), called RÉSO, a network of pedestrian corridors connecting Métro stations, shopping centres, and office complexes. Jaywalking is widespread and rarely punished. However, drivers will usually not stop or even slow down if a pedestrian steps out in front of them, even at marked crosswalks. At an intersection, however, a pedestrian will have right of passage before turning traffic and most drivers respect this. Despite Montreal drivers' poor reputation for aggressiveness, they generally respect pedestrians. Rue Sainte-Catherine is Montreal's main commercial artery and busiest pedestrian thoroughfare. The "Underground City" and the Green Line (or line 1) of Montreal's Metro is easily accessible from all the major office complexes, shopping malls, department stores, and theatre complexes that line it. Smaller chain stores and restaurants also vie for valuable commercial space. Well-kept historic churches with green space provide quiet oasis and contrast with the giant neon s

See

Architecture Many notable historical buildings and churches are located in Montreal, the vast majority of which are in old Montréal. Most of these date from the 17th to the 19th century, showcasing the variety of architectural styles seen in these periods. At night, several of the buildings are beautifully illuminated, seemingly glowing from within. A Tourist Welcome Office brochure from Bonjour Québec lays out a walking map. It is worthwhile to follow the map twice, once during the day, and again at night.

Of the four Roman Catholic Basilicas in Montreal, the Notre-Dame Basilica (Basilique de Notre-Dame) at Place d'Armes is undoubtedly the most famous church in Montreal. This architectural marvel is known throughout the world for its lavishly decorated and colourful interior. This basilica, splendidly exemplifying the Gothic Revival style, is an extremely popular tourist attraction. Although rather small and not a basilica, another notable church located in Old Montreal is the Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours Chapel (Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours) near the Bonsecours Market, the first church to be founded in Montreal. It is known for its maritime theme and beautiful frescoes on the inside walls and ceilings. Downtown Montreal houses Saint Joseph's Oratory (Oratoire Saint-Joseph), the largest church in Canada. Stylistically based on elements of the Italian Renaissance, it features the third highest dome in the world, and acts as the highest point in all of Montreal. Downtown Montreal is also home to the opulent Mary, Queen of the World Cathedral (Cathédrale Marie-Reine-du-Monde), a National Historic Site of Canada modeled on St Peter’s Basilica in Rome, and Saint Patrick's Basilica (Basilique Saint-Patrick), which was built to serve Montreal's Anglophone Catholic community. Aside from churches, a main architectural feature of downtown is Habitat 67, a residential complex built from interlocking modular forms, giving a result that somewhat resembles a pile of Lego bricks. It is the only intact pavilion remaining from Expo 67 and is known around the world as an excellent example of post-modern and minimalist architecture. Its conception has had an incalculable impact on later development of modular homes. Located at Cité-du-Havre, near the Old Port (Vieux-Port). Guided tours are available; tickets must be booked online in advance. Adults $50; children under 12 free.

Landmarks Le Plateau combines scenic residential streets with hip shopping and dining. Vieux-Port (Old Port), is located south of rue Saint-Antoine between rue McGill and rue Berri (metr

Do

In Montreal/Parc Jean-Drapeau, you will find the Casino de Montréal and the La Ronde, a Six Flags family amusement park.

Cross-country skiing During the winter, many parks offer the possibility to do cross-country skiing with groomed paths, including Parc regional de l'Ile-de-la-Visitation (ski rental available), Parc du Mont-Royal (ski rental available and usually the best ski conditions, and Parc Maisonneuve and Jardin Botanique (no ski rental).Ice skating There is year-round ice-skating at 1000, rue De La Gauchetière (metro Bonaventure). There is free skating at Lac aux Castors Beaver Lake in the Parc Mont-Royal, in the connected ponds of Lafontaine Park in Plateau Mont-Royal, and in the Vieux-Port in front of the Bonsecours Market and many parks.

Water sports River surfing — Although the Saint Lawrence River is frozen nearly solid for four to five months out of the year, the waterway has become a magnet for aficionados of this new sport. Unlike their oceanic brethren, river surfers ride the standing waves in fresh waterways. The Saint Lawrence has two main hot spots for the sport: Habitat 67 is close to the bridge between Montreal and Île des Soeurs, the site of the 1967 Expo and the Montreal Casino. (This wave is also known as Expo 67.) The Surf 66 Boardshop at the 1952 rue Cabot offers lessons. Kayaking — Just off the shore of the park in Lasalle are the Lachine Rapids. Huge waves, fast water, and loads of fun for kayaks. Lessons are available on site in the huge eddy formed by the peninsula. Annual surf (rodeo) competitions at "Big Joe" (still called "Beneath the Wheel" by old schoolers). Other famous play waves on this set of rapids on the St. Lawrence river are, Istambul and Constantinople, Pyramid, Slice and Dice, Black and Decker, and HMF on the other side of the islands. For those seeking less of an adrenaline rush, there is always the Bunny Wave (La Vague a Guy) upstream near the bike path at Park Rene Lesvesque. Rafting these same rapids is also a fun option.

Bike A map of the cycle path network is available from Vélo Québec. Particularly pleasant places to cycle and skate include:

Parc Maisonneuve — A large park with smooth paths. Parc Jean-Drapeau — Particularly the Île Notre-Dame on the Formula One race track: a fantastic view across the water to downtown Montreal. Lachine Canal — Bike paths west of the Old Port. Rivière-des-Prairies — You can ride across Montreal Island from west to east along the river on the north of Montreal. Many sites have incredible views. A stop at Perry Island is a must.

Parks Square Saint-Louis, c

Buy

Although Montreal's economy has been booming, the city remains remarkably affordable compared to other major cities in Canada and the United States. Shopping in Montreal ranges from eclectic budget stores to high-end fashion, with a wide spectrum in between.

General Rue Ste-Catherine, between rue Guy and boulevard St-Laurent, has many of the big department and chain stores as well as a few major malls. Avenue Mont-Royal has funky consignment and gothic clothing stores from boulevard St-Laurent to rue Saint-Denis and a mixed bag of neighbourhood stores, used record shops, and gentrified boutiques heading east towards avenue Papineau. Rue St-Viateur is one of the city's most interesting streets, with its amazingly varied range of businesses crammed into the short stretch between Boulevard St-Laurent and Avenue du Parc. St-Laurent remains one of the city's prime shopping streets, more or less along its whole length. Just about anything can be found there, with different blocks having different clusters of businesses (Asian groceries and housewares near de La Gauchetière, cheap electronics a little farther up, hip boutiques between Prince-Arthur and Mount Royal, anything and everything Italian between Saint-Zotique and Jean-Talon). Rue Sherbrooke ouest, west of the Autoroute Décarie, has an increasingly interesting concentration of largely food-oriented businesses. Jean-Talon market, near the intersection of Jean-Talon and St-Laurent, has a wide variety of local produce and food products (maple syrup, cheese, etc.) at very good prices. For electronic stuff, the largest chain store is BestBuy. You can also find many smaller ones on Boulevard St-Laurent (between Ontario and Sherbrooke).

Budget Village des Valeurs, 2033 Pie IX (Métro Pie IX). Second hand store providing montrealers with shops inside and outside of Montreal. (updated Aug 2023) Le coffre aux trésors "Chainon", 4375 Boulevard St Laurent (Métro Sherbrooke). L'Aubainerie Concept Mode, 1490, av du Mont-Royal E (metro mont royal). Friperie St. Laurent, Friperie St. Laurent, ☏ +1 514-842-3893. Some military equipment shops around St-Laurent and Ste-Catherine. For trekking and outdoor, you also have many options

MEC, 8989, boulevard de l'Acadie, ☏ +1 514-788-5878. Mountain Equipment Co-op is a co-operative with staff who know the stores merchandise well. La cordée, rue Ste-Catherine. Great store to stock up on your favorite or some essential gear for your next outdoor activity. (updated Aug 2023) Kanuk, 485 Rachel St E. Kanuk are best known for their winter coats and parkas. (update

Eat

Montreal is a culinary mecca and has a huge variety of food options, from diners and fast food to low-cost ethnic restaurants to haute cuisine. The city was ranked 2nd best dining city in North America after San Francisco and ahead of New York. The large local Jewish population has contributed local specialties including huge smoked meat sandwiches (beef brisket) (Schwartz's is the most authentic smoked meat restaurant, though this title has been challenged by a gradual slip in quality in the early 2020s) and small, crusty bagels (the undisputed classic bagel places are St-Viateur's and Fairmount Bagels). Other specialties are "all-dressed" pizza (pepperoni, mushrooms and green peppers), pizza and spaghetti with smoked meat, and Québécois favourites like split pea soup and poutine.

Many Montreal restaurants are "apportez votre vin" (bring your own wine). This may sound like a hassle, but you end up paying much less for wine with dinner if you bring it yourself. There's usually a SAQ (government liquor store) or a dépanneur (convenience store, with a limited selection of typically inexpensive wine) nearby; ask your waiter where it is. Your waiter will open your wine for you; corkage fees are rare, but don't forget to factor this service into your tip so make sure to ask. If you are driving from the United States, you may find Canadian liquor prices quite frightening. Even the duty-free shops along the border are rarely cheaper than an American liquor store (although these are still cheaper than the SAQ). Visitors can bring in 40oz of hard alcohol, 1.5L of wine, or a 24-pack of beer. Separate bills (la facture in French) are common and you may be asked ensemble ou séparément? (together or separately?) The standard tip for acceptable restaurant service is 15% and is not included. Never call a waiter "garçon"! Use "monsieur" or "madame".

Montreal specialties There are several foods that are specialties of the city:

The Montreal-style bagel, which is a little denser and sweeter than its New York City counterpart. Bagel worshippers flock to St-Viateur Bagel and Fairmount Bagel, and pontificate about which is better. Both are within blocks of each other in the Plateau Mont-Royal district, on Saint-Viateur and Fairmount streets, respectively. A fresh bagel hot from the oven of either establishment is one of the great joys in life. Montreal-style smoked meat, a type of corned beef, distinct from other forms such as pastrami, is available at many restaurants, but by far the most highly esteemed is that available at Schwartz's on the Main (Boulevard Saint-La

Drink & nightlife

The legal age to purchase alcohol in Quebec is 18 and the Québécois are now much more rigid in enforcing this age limit. All retail alcohol sales stop at 23:00 and bars and clubs stop serving at 03:00. Quality wine and liquor (but only a small selection of imported beers) can only be purchased at SAQ shops, most of which are open until 18:00 Sunday to Wednesdays and 20:00 or 21:00 on other days; the smaller SAQ Express outlets are open daily from 11:00 to 22:00. Beer and a small selection of lower-quality wine are also sold at convenience stores (dépanneurs) and grocery stores. Some supermarkets have partnered with the SAQ to offer a few selection bottles, so if you are caught outside business hours or are in a hurry, places like IGA Extra and Métro generally offer a better variety of wine than the local dépanneur. The selection of beer to be found in grocery stores and even the humble corner store have exploded in the last decade in and around greater Montreal. Two micro-breweries in particular are world-class: McAuslan (brands include St-Ambroise and Griffon) and Unibroue (Belgian-style ales such as Blanche de Chambly, Maudite, La Fin du Monde, and simpler, more affordable U lagers). Boréale makes a good, if unspectacular range of brews, while Rickard's and Alexander Keith's domestics are gaining popularity among locals. Most stores also sell a few major imports such as Stella Artois, Sapporo, Guinness, Leffe and of course, Heineken.

Bars Montreal has three main strips for bar-hopping. Rue Crescent, in the western part of downtown, caters mostly to Anglophones and tourists. It tends to be trendy and expensive. On the edge of the bar-heavy Plateau, Boulevard Saint-Laurent gets extremely busy when McGill and Concordia students are back in town for a new session. Between rue Sherbrooke and avenue des Pins you'll find trendy clubs and bars with more of a Francophone clientele. Farther up St-Laurent, it's relatively downscale and linguistically mixed. Rue Saint-Denis, between rue Sherbrooke and de Maisonneuve, is the strip with the strongest Francophone feel. There are also many good bars away from the main strips, like on Avenue Mont-Royal, and even nowadays on Rue Masson et Rue Ontario in the eastern part of town. You should never have to line up to go have a drink, because there's virtually an unlimited choice. Depending on the day of the week, the best events vary. For example, on Tuesday you should go to Les Foufounes Électriques for cheap beer and a unique experience in a Montréal institution. In summer, many bars offer a terrasse (outdoor seating)

Sleep

For the budget traveller, Montreal offers youth hostels with dorms or private rooms and budget bed and breakfasts (sometimes with very skimpy breakfasts). The densest collection of budget hotels are in the Latin Quarter, in the streets east of Berri-UQAM metro and the intercity bus station. Old Montreal has a couple of quality hostels, but you'll pay more to be there. Montreal is also the city with the most Couch Surfing members, so it is easy to find a hospitable local host for a few nights. As with most major Canadian cities, another option is to stay at a hostel or hotel in an adjacent suburb; Laval and Longueuil are good choices for these due to their connection to the city's subway network. Mid-range options include Downtown chain hotels to "gîtes", guest houses that range from a single room in an apartment to elegant historic homes with three to five rooms. Gîtes are usually found in the more residential neighbourhoods like the Plateau. On the upper-end, four and five-star luxury and boutique hotels are mostly concentrated in Old Montreal and Downtown. Montreal is home to four major universities and numerous smaller schools. Students routinely sublet apartments in the summer months.

Go next

Montreal makes an excellent entryway for visiting other cities and destinations in Quebec and the northern United States. You will have to pass the border control if you go to the US, and arm yourself with the appropriate visas and papers. Add at least one extra hour for the border control.

The Adirondacks are a 2½-hour drive to the south. These mountains make up the largest park in the contiguous US and offer outdoor activities like hiking, rafting and skiing. Boston is a 5-hour drive to the southeast. Mont Tremblant lies less than two hours north in the Laurentides. The Eastern Townships are two to three hours straight east. The Laurentians and in the Eastern Townships between December and March offer good downhill skiing. There are some very good night-skiing centres such as Ski Bromont and Mont-St-Sauveur. The Monteregie townships, a short drive east of Montreal. New York City is a 6½-hour drive directly south. Ottawa is two hours west by car. Quebec City, about 3 hours to the north east on Highway 40, is almost but not quite a day trip. You'll want to stay over, anyway. Tadoussac, about 6 hours away by car, has great whale-watching Toronto is more distant, but still a doable 6-hour drive (or a faster 4½-hour train trip).