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Migori

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Migori, Indonesia
Migori, Indonesia. Photo via Wikimedia Commons.

About Migori

Western Kenya is a region of Kenya and includes Nyanza and Western provinces of the same name.

Although the region has much to offer in terms of landscape and culture, it has played a relatively minor role in tourism to date. It is often used as a transit area en route to Uganda. Thanks to its strong agricultural character, it is of particular interest to travellers who want to venture off the beaten track.

Migori travel guide

Understand

The Western Province is a region of Kenya that is little known to most outsiders, and often not actively sought out either. Those who were born here, however, tend to feel a strong attachment to their homeland. Many work along the coast or in the national parks, yet return at every opportunity to spend their holidays with their families. Western Kenya offers abundant unspoilt nature, a relaxed atmosphere, and a generally pleasant climate. Although daytime temperatures can be quite high, the nights are usually comfortably cool. The people are regarded as friendly and welcoming, yet unemployment remains high, making it difficult to secure a stable livelihood. Tourists and expatriates rarely visit Western Kenya—or, if they do, they often struggle to know what to make of it. It is not the typical beach paradise depicted in travel brochures, nor does it feature a widespread expatriate scene or nightlife districts with bars open late into the night. Smoking cigarettes and cannabis is generally socially discouraged. Western Kenya is also one of the most ethnically diverse regions in the country. The Luo people predominantly inhabit the counties of Kisumu, Siaya, Homa Bay, and Migori, all located along the shores of Lake Victoria. The Luhya mainly reside in Kakamega, Bungoma, Vihiga, and Busia counties. The Kisii are concentrated in Kisii and Nyamira counties to the southeast of Lake Victoria, while the Nandi live in Nandi County. The Kalenjin and related subgroups are mainly found in Kericho and Bomet counties, and the Teso in Busia County near the Ugandan border. The landscape of Western Kenya is particularly striking. Every turn in the road reveals a new and distinct view. The region is shaped in part by the Great Rift Valley: its dry lowlands, dotted with lakes and acacia savannahs, contrast sharply with the lush green highlands covered in tea plantations that rise alongside them. To the west, the terrain opens toward Lake Victoria, while to the south lie the expansive

Getting there

Bus services form the backbone of public transport between Nairobi and the major cities in western Kenya. The network is dense, frequent and well-developed. The main providers are: Easy Coach, Modern Coast, Dreamline, Guardian Bus and Mash Poa. However, it is quicker to fly from Nairobi to Kisumu.

Getting around

Matatus (minibuses) and motorbike taxis travel between urban centres and rural areas along often adventurous routes. Allow plenty of time for this, especially in the rainy season when the roads are soft. If you want to travel quickly, take a taxi. Rental cars (4WD) should only be hired with a driver. The old metre gauge rail network has been restored, and Kenya Railways passenger trains run from Nairobi to Kisumu. A first class ticket to Kisumu costs Ksh2,400 and an economy class ticket costs Ksh900 (Dec 2024). The travel time is quite slow (about 13 hours) as the old colonial rail network meanders through the landscape. There are passenger ferries between Kisumu and ports in Uganda and Tanzania; schedules and bookings are available at the port or local shipping agencies. The main route is between Kisumu and Mwanza in Tanzania.

See

Kitum Caves - The forest near Kitale is home to some impressive caves that are well worth a visit. Kapcherop Forest - This tropical mountain forest close to Kitale is ideal for hiking and picnicking, and its scenic beauty captivates visitors. Manga Ridge, near Kisii - Standing at the edge of the cliff, visitors can enjoy beautiful views of the town of Kisii and the natural forest of the mountainous terrain. Keera Waterfall - The 35-metre-high waterfall is located in the middle of the forest near Kisii, and is just a few minutes' walk from a dirt road. There are caves of historical and cultural significance at the bottom of the waterfall. Chereres Waterfall - Scenic waterfall near Kericho.

Do

Game drives in one of the national parks. Guided hikes, bird watching (over 400 species), observing primates such as colobus monkeys in the Kakamega rainforest or hiking on the slopes of the Rift Valley (e.g. near Eldoret). Boat trips on Lake Victoria, fishing (especially for Nile perch), visits to fishing villages such as Mbita, relaxation on the beach.

Eat

The most important staple food is ugali, a thick porridge made from cornmeal that is served with almost every meal. Small pieces are broken off and used to scoop up sauces, vegetables and fish. It is usually accompanied by a variety of fresh vegetables, such as sukuma wiki (a type of kale), kienyeji (a local leafy vegetable), and plantains. None of these foods are to Western tastes and it takes some getting used to. A regional highlight, especially among the Luo people, is 'nyama choma', which is grilled goat or beef shared socially with the hands. Another typical Luo dish is 'aliya', smoked beef. This is particularly popular with the rural population at celebrations, as it is too expensive for everyday meals. Nile perch and tilapia from Lake Victoria are also popular. These are often grilled whole ('grilled fish'), stewed in a spicy tomato and onion sauce ('fish stew') for those who can afford it, or sun-dried omena (a type of small sardine) as a protein-rich side dish widely eaten by poorer people. Of course, in the cities you can also find everything that tourists generally like to eat, including pizza, fast food and steaks with chips.

Drink & nightlife

Nightlife only exists in larger cities. In the countryside, people occasionally visit one of the basic pubs to watch football with friends, but usually they go to 'sleep with the chickens'. Funerals and weddings are the social highlights for the rural population. Everyone and their brother gets together for days on end with lots of food and far too loud music.

Overview adapted from Wikipedia, travel guide fromWikivoyage (CC BY-SA)。Photography via Wikimedia Commons.

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