Matsue

Understand

This laid-back samurai city is home to one of the few authentic wooden castles in Japan, and is also famous for its sunsets and traditional "wagashi" confectionery. Sitting between the shores of Lake Shinji and an inner sea, the city is rich in canals and is often called "City of Water". Matsue and its surrounding area is rich in cultural assets and historical sites, and many of Japan's most ancient legends are set in the area.

History Matsue has been the political, economic, and cultural capital of the region for much of the past two millennia. At the time of the agriculture-based Yayoi civilization, between the third century BC and CE, and even earlier, during the Jomon civilization, much of whay is now Matsue was underwater. A large inland sea once covered much of the area. As a result, most of the archaeological sites associated with the ancient Izumo tribe and the origins of Japanese civilization are found on higher ground, on the city's southern edge. The younger city center developed from 1607 with the construction of Matsue Castle.

Land of Myths Many of the myths compiled in the Kojiki, Japan's oldest collection of Myths, dating from the early 8th century take place in the province of Izumo. All the gods of Japan descend upon Matsue before going to their annual meeting at the Grand Shrine of Izumo (in neighboring Izumo). The entrance to the Underworld, ruled over by the god Susanoo can also be found in Matsue.

Lafcadio Hearn

Irish journalist Lafcadio Hearn (1850-1904) was an author of many books about Japan. He came to work as a teacher in Matsue in 1890, and although he spent only 15 months there, during that time he married a Japanese woman, became naturalized Japanese citizen (adopting the name Koizumi Yakumo). Hearn wrote about his life in Meiji Era Matsue and chronicled many local legends and ghost stories he has become Matsue's favorite son, and the Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum and his former residence are among the city's most popular attractions. Matsue’s Hearn connection led the national government to proclaim it one of Japan’s three top international tourist cities, along with the ancient capitals of Kyoto and Nara. Because of Hearn's Irish roots there are cultural connections between Matsue and Ireland and an Irish festival and parade is held yearly.

Orientation The city center is split into two parts by the Ōhashi River (大橋川). It forms a natural division between the ancient and modern parts of Matsue. Matsue Station, most hotels, shops and restaurants are clustered in the southern part, while most historical sites and

Getting there

By plane Matsue is served by two nearby airports.

Izumo Airport (出雲空港 IZO IATA). Flights by JAL from Tokyo Haneda, Osaka Itami, Fukuoka and the Oki Islands. Shuttle buses to Matsue Station are scheduled to connect to every arriving flight. A one-way trip takes 30 minutes and costs ¥1,000. (updated Jun 2020) Yonago Kitaro Airport (米子鬼太郎空港 YGJ IATA). Flights by ANA from Tokyo Haneda and Asiana flies to Incheon International Airport in Korea three times a week. Shuttle buses to Matsue Station are scheduled to connect to every arriving national flight. A one-way trip takes 45 minutes and costs ¥960. JR trains depart from Yonago Airport Station approximately hourly. To get to Matsue, travelers should transfer at Yonago Station. A one-way trip to Matsue costs ¥740 by regular train (90 minutes) and ¥2180 by express (70 minutes). (updated Jun 2020)

By train Matsue is a major stop on the JR San'in Main Line, which parallels the Sea of Japan coastline for most of its length. The main way to reach Matsue by JR is by using the Yakumo limited express, which runs about once per hour to/from Kurashiki and Okayama, the latter being a major stop on the shinkansen. The one way trip takes 2 hr 30 min and costs ¥6,140 for a reserved seat. Yakumo services continue on to Izumo, taking around 30 minutes. Some other JR limited express services run through Matsue:

The Super Matsukaze runs a few times per day to Tottori (90 min, ¥4,700) and Masuda (2 hr, ¥5810). The Super Oki runs a few times per day to Masuda and Yamaguchi (4 hr, ¥7,460). The Shin-Yamaguchi shinkansen station is another 15 minutes down the line (¥7,790), offering a scenic alternate if traveling between Matsue and western Chūgoku or Kyūshū. The above JR services are all free with the Japan Rail Pass. In addition, one of Japan's few remaining overnight sleeper trains, the Sunrise Izumo, runs through Matsue daily. The train departs JR Tokyo Station at 22:00 and arrives in Matsue at 09:29. The return journey leaves Matsue at 19:24 and arrives in Tokyo at 07:08. The trip cost is the basic fare of ¥16,040 plus additional fees depending on the accommodation. If you have a Japan Rail Pass, you can book a carpeted floor space on this service at no charge (¥3,830 without the JR Pass). Fees for compartments and rooms range from ¥9,900 to ¥17,280. Showers on board. The train is subject to cancellation due to inclement weather.

By bus Highway buses connect Matsue and Tokyo (night bus only), Osaka, Fukuoka, Hiroshima, Okayama, Kobe and Nagoya (night bus only). The ticket office is outside Matsue Station behind Law

Getting around

On foot Matsue city center is not that big, and most attractions are at walking distance. The Matsue International Tourist Information Office in front of the station has a free umbrella loan system where abandoned umbrellas are put to good use, so do pick one up in case the weather changes!

By bike Bicycles are a quick and convenient way to get around Matsue. They can be rented at several locations. Around Matsue Station:

Eki Rentaka Kansai (inside the Matsue Station Shamine parking structure), ☏ +81 852 23-8880. 08:00-19:00. ¥500 daily. Nippon Rent-A-Car (across the street from Matsue Station), ☏ +81 852 21-7518. 08:00-20:00. 2 hours ¥200, one day ¥1100. Matsue Urban Hotel (across the street from Matsue Station), ☏ +81 852 22-0002. 24-hr rentals. Discounts for guests. Matsue Shinjiko Onsen Station (near Shinjiko Onsen Station), ☏ +81 852 21-2429. Matsue New Urban Hotel Annex (near Shinjiko Onsen Station.), ☏ +81 852 23-0003. 24-hr rentals. Discount for guests..

By bus

Matsue Bus is the local bus company, and these buses can take you all over the city.

Lake Line. These bright-red retro-styled tourist buses drive around in loops along all major attractions. One bus every 30 minutes. one ride \210, Day pass \520, 2-day pass \1050 (Children 50%). (updated Apr 2024)

By train For most destinations, JR trains can take you there. Catch a train at Matsue Station.

Ichibata Railway. This train service runs north of Lake Shinji to Izumo. If you're off to visit Izumo's amazing shrines or temples, this is the ticket. One-day unlimited rides ¥1500. (updated Jun 2020)

By taxi

Taxis can be found waiting on both sides of Matsue Station. The easiest way to get a taxi when not around the station is to ask a hotel or shop operator to call one.

Ichibata Taxi, ☏ +81 852 21-4334. The largest taxi company. English not spoken.

By car A car is not needed in the city center, but it could be handy if you're headed to the countryside.

4 Nippon Rent-A-Car, 446-19 Taishomachi (Across the street from the station), ☏ +81 852 21-7518. 08:00-20:00.

See

Matsue Castle and Shiomi Nawate Samurai Street 1 Matsue Castle (松江城, Matsuejo), 1-5 Tono-machi (from Matsue Station head west to the lakeside; then head north, crossing Matsue Ohashi Bridge and continue straight on until you get to the castle), ☏ +81 852 21-4030. Apr-Sep 08:30-17:00, Oct-Mar 08:30-17:30. The castle keep is one of only twelve original castles left in Japan, dating back to 1611. Inside the castle you'll find an impressive array of original artifacts from the Matsudaira clan including original armor, swords, and helmets. The top of the castle offers a great view of Matsue City and Lake Shinji. Adults ¥550, children ¥280. 50% discount for foreigners. 2 Kōunkaku (興雲閣) (next to the castle). Apr-Sep 08:30-18:30, Oct-Mar 08:30-17:00. A sort of colonial house with Japanese architectural elements. Free. (updated May 2017) 3 Shiomi Nawate (塩見縄手). This old samurai residential street runs along the north east side of Matsue Castle, across the moat. Many of Matsue's musea and other historical attractions can be found in this area. 4 Matsue History Museum (松江歴史館 Matsue Rekishikan), Tono-machi 279 (across the moat from Matsue castle), ☏ +81 852 32-1607. 08:30-18:30. The Matsue History Museum offers a glimpse into the past of Matsue and the surrounding area. The museum also houses the Matsue International Tourist Information Office. The staff speaks English and can help with booking a hotel. ¥500 for adults, ¥250 for children, 50% discount for foreigners. 5 Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum (小泉八雲記念館 Koizumi Yakumo Kinenkan), Okudani-chō 322, ☏ +81 852 21-2147. Apr-Sep 08:30-18:30, Oct-Mar 08:30-17:00. Writer Lafcadio Hearn lived in Matsue from 1890 to 1891, and the museum was built next to his former residence. On display are many objects belonging to or related to Hearn, including his desk, his favorite quill and ink pot, manuscripts and several favorites from his large Japanese pipe collection. Adults ¥300, children ¥150, 50% discount for foreigners. 6 Lafcadio Hearn's Former Residence (小泉八雲旧居 Koizumi Yakumo Kyūkyo), Kitahori-chō 315. The former residence of writer Lafcadio Hearn. Hearn spent many of his happiest months in Matsue. Here he wrote most of Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan, his chief work, as well as large portions of what was to become Kwaidan. ¥300, 50% discount for foreigners. 7 Jozan Inari Shrine (城山稲荷神社, Jōzan Inari Jinja), Tonomachi 449-2 (on the Matsue Castle grounds, northwest of the castle), ☏ +81 852 22-2324. An Inari "fox" shrine surrounded by hundreds of fox statuettes. This shrine was one of Irish writer Lafcadio Hearn's favori

Do

Events and festivals

Many festivals and events are held yearly. Mst official English Matsue tourism websites are rarely updated and will often show the dates and times of events held in previous years. It would be best to call the Matsue Tourist Association (☏ +81 852 26-2011) to verify the dates if you're planning your trip to Matsue to coincide with any events or festivals.

1 Castle Festival, Matsue Castle grounds, ☏ +81 852 21-4030. 07:00-21:00. Held yearly from late March to mid April. Around this time the cherry trees around the castle will be in full bloom, and many people have hanami picnics on the castle grounds. In the evening lanterns are lit, making it possible to picnic until 9PM.On the weekends various events are held on the castle grounds. Free. 2 Matsue Irish Festival, ☏ +81 852 20-0207. Because writer Lafcadio Hearn, one of Matsue's favorite sons, was from Ireland there are strong links between Ireland and Matsue. This ties are the most visible at the Matsue Irish Festival, which is held yearly for two consecutive days on a weekend in March and may (or may not) coincide with St. Patrick's Day. Events include a parade during the day and an Irish pub with live music inside Karakoro Art Studio in the evening. Wear something green! 3 Tamatsukuri Onsen Cherry Blossom Festival (玉造温泉桜まつり), Tamatsukuri (take a Japan Rail train from Matsue Station towards Izumo and get off at Tamatsukuri station; Tamatsukuri onsen is a short walk south from there), ☏ +81 852 62-3300. 07:00-22:00. Held yearly from late March to mid April. The cherry blossom trees in Tamatsukuri Onsen hot springs town will be in full bloom, so it's a great spot to have a picnic and maybe afterwards have a long soak in one of Tamatsukuri's many hot springs. Lots of events are held on the weekends and the streets are lit until late, making it an ideal place for a romantic evening stroll along the river which runs through town. Free.

4 Horan-enya (ホーランエンヤ), The river connecting Lake Shinji to the inner sea (walk north from Matsue Station). A very special festival, held only once every 12 years. Very colorful boats with many rowers and dancing kabuki actors on them accompany a portable shrine from Jozan Inari Shrine at Matsue Castle to a shrine in Higashi-Matsue. The festival lasts for three days, with the boats putting on a show underneath the bridges of Matsue on day 1 and 3, and a smaller show in Higashi-Matsue on day 2. Expect huge crowds especially on the final day. The next Horanenya festival will be held in May 2021. Free. 5 Suigosai Fireworks, The shores of Lake Shinji

Buy

Local foods, crafts and souvenirs

1 Shimane Prefectural Products and Tourist Centre (島根県物産観光館 Shimane-ken Bussan Kankōkan), 191 Tono-machi (across the street from Matsue Castle parking area), ☏ +81 852 22-5758. 09:00-18:00. Sells foods and traditional crafts from all over Shimane. 2 Matsue Gokoro (松江ごころ), Kitahori-cho 318 (across the street from Lafcadio Hearn's Residence), ☏ +81 852 27-0875. 09:00-17:00, closed on Wednesdays. Sells local foods and sake. Has a small cafe inside. 3 Shamine Matsue (シャミネ松江), Asahi-machi 472-2 (inside Matsue station, in the west wing.), ☏ +81 852 26-6511. 09:00-19:30. A one-stop shop for local souvenirs, foodstuffs and sweets.

Wagashi Japanese sweets Matsue, as one of Japan's three largest centers for the tea ceremony, has been nurturing the art of Japanese-style wagashi confectionery for several hundred years.

4 Saiundo (彩雲堂 Saiun-dō), Tenjin-machi 124, ☏ +81 852 21-2727. 08:30-18:30. The speciality of this shop is Wakakusa, a green, plum-flavored sweet. This sweet was one of the favorites of Lord Fumai, who was Matsue's seventh Daimyo feudal lord and the Edo period's greatest connoisseur of tea. 5 Furyudo (風流堂 Fūryū-dō), Shirakatahon-machi 15, ☏ +81 852 21-3359. Specializes in Yamakawa pale pink and white confections, another favorite of Lord Fumai. 6 Keigetsudo (計月堂 Keigetsu-dō), Tenjin-machi 97, ☏ +81 852 21-2622. 09:00-19:00. This shop is famous for a sweet called Matsue-jō (Matsue Castle), which is a sweet paste-based, golden-floured confection.

Clothing and accessories

7 Kyomise Street, Suetsuguhon-machi (across the canal from Karakoro Art Studio). A quaint cobbled street with lots of small shops selling accessories, Japanese sweets and clothing. 8 Karakoro Art Studio, Tono-machi 43, ☏ +81 852 20-7000. 09:30-18:30. Housed in an old bank building, Karakoro Art Studio consists of a jewelry workshop, accessory shops, a bakery and different cafes and restaurants. Musical events are held here throughout the year. 9 Notsu jade shop (野津めのう店 Notsu Menō Ten), Tonomachi 407, ☏ +81 852 21 4779. 09:30-19:00. Sells a wide variety of crystals and jewels. Specializes in Magatama, tear drop shaped pendants made by hand since prehistoric times from locally hewn jade. 10 Port Below, Tenjin-machi 136, Matsue, 2nd floor, ☏ +81 852 27-5720. 11:00-20:00. Port Below sells a wide range of imported clothes and accessories. The shop also has a cafe where often music events and parties are held.

Malls and supermarkets 11 AEON Matsue Shopping Center, Higashiasahi-machi 151 (just to the south west of Matsue Station), ☏ +81

Eat

Japanese 1 Yakumo-an (八雲庵), Kitabori-cho 308, (next to the Buke Yashiki samurai house), ☏ +81 852 22-2400. 09:30-16:00. A picturesque restaurant in a former samurai residence, with central garden, teahouse and carp-filled pond, specializing in soba and udon noodles. Lunches for under ¥1000. 2 Akabeko (赤べこ), Asahi-machi 496-5 (exit Matsue Station from the north side; head west for about 5 minutes until you get to a big intersection; it's the restaurant on the north-east corner with a red bull as its logo), ☏ +81 852 24-8400. A small, cozy sushi bar popular with the locals. Uses fresh, local ingredients. Has a special sushi sample course of around ¥1000 aimed at foreign visitors. Vegetarian sushi is available. ¥1000. 3 Menya Hibari (麪家 ひばり), Kitahoricho 189, ☏ +81852215062. Ramen shop that has made it on the Top 100 Best Ramen Shops in West Japan list. Known for their Agodashi Ramen. (updated Apr 2025) 4 Usagiya (餃子とレモンサワー うさぎや), Otesenbacho 568-13, ☏ +81852613811. Lively restaurant that's known for their gyoza and all-you-can-drink vodka lemon sours. (updated Apr 2025)

Cafes 5 Caffe Vita, Gakuen 2-5-3, ☏ +81 852 20-0301. 10:00-20:00, closed Th. This cafe specializes in espresso coffee. The owner was Nr 1 at the Japanese national barista competition. 6 Kuu (空 Kū), Sodeshichō 10-11 (from Shimane Art Museum head southwards, not along the lakeside, but along the street parallel to it; it's a 5-minute walk), ☏ +81 852 21-4134. W-Su 07:30-18:00. A cosy bakery with its own cafe. The bakery specializes in soft yeasty bread but also has a nice selection of European breads. The cafe serves light, mainly vegetarian lunches. If you like you select the bread you'd like to eat in the cafe. 7 Waterworks (ウォーターワークス Uōtāwākusu), Nishitsuda 6-11-32 (15 minutes on foot south of the station; it can be a bit tricky to find, so use a map or ask around), ☏ +81 852 25-1044. W-M 11:00-23:00, closed 2nd and 4th Wednesday. A stylish cafe, popular with young women. Has a wide range of teas and coffees.

Italian 8 Al Sole (アル ソーレArusōre), Asahi-machi 489 (to the north west of Matsue Station, in a street perpendicular to the large road which runs along the north side of the station), ☏ +81 852-28-0272. M-Sa 11:00-15:00, 18:00-22:00. A small family owned Italian restaurant. The chef likes to use high quality local ingredients in his cooking. Portions may be on the small side for Western tastes. Vegetarian friendly. Lunch ¥900, dinner ¥2500. 9 Capriciosa (カプリチョーザ), Asahi-machi 47-8-18, Second floor of Terrsa (テルサ) (inside the Terrsa building on the north side of Matsue Stat

Drink & nightlife

1 Naked Space, Suetsuguhon-machi 77 3rd Floor (in Kyomise shopping street on the 3rd floor above Mod's Hair), ☏ +81 852 24-3356. 22:00 - early. The largest nightclub in Matsue. Features live acts and DJs most Fridays and Saturdays. 2 Music Bar Birthday, Tera-machi 203-1 (a 5-minute walk to the east of Matsue Station), ☏ +81 852 21-0120. 20:00-02:00 (closed most Sundays). It's a small music bar, but it manages to attract some very big names from the Japanese music world (and beyond) to perform here.

3 St. James's Gate, Isemiya-chō 501-12, ☏ +81 80-6315-9630. Tu-Sa 20:00-03:00. An Irish pub which is popular both with locals and Matsue's small expat community. One of the very few places in this part of Japan which has Guinness beer on tap. Things can get very lively here on Friday and Saturday evenings! English is spoken and Fish'n'chips are served. 4 5150 Music Cafe Bar, Tera-machi 199-1, 2nd floor (from the north exit of Matsue Station head left; it's just beyond the back of the Poplar convenience store), ☏ +81 852 23-1251. 22:00-05:00. A hard rock music bar popular with the local English teacher crowd. Often hosts international events. 5 Tete de Bavard, Wadami-chō 39, ☏ +81 50-5834-7084. 17:00-00:00 (last order at 23:00). A cozy night cafe. Has an interesting collection of retro style chairs and sofas on the second floor. Serves a wide array of drinks and wild looking desserts until late at night. From time to time local musicians have concerts here. ¥1000. 6 Mocha, Higashicha-machi 38 (The west side of Kyomise shopping street), ☏ +81 852 28-6682. A laid-back bar, popular with the local hipster crowd. 7 Cafe Puente, Suetsuguhonmachi, 36 E.A.D ビル 1F, ☏ +81852692977. Chill vinyl bar that serves a variety of drinks. The bartender/owner is very friendly and speaks some English. (updated Apr 2025)

Sleep

For budget travelers or those with unexpected plans, it's possible to stay overnight in an internet cafe.

Around Matsue Station

1 Terazuya Ryokan (旅館 寺津屋), 60-3 Tenjin-machi, ☏ +81 852 25-4100. Nothing fancy, just a pleasant family run ryokan inn with shared bathrooms and internet access. The hosts can pick you up at the train station. Shirakata Tenmangu Shrine is across the street from the inn. No credit cards accepted. Singles from ¥4200 without meals or ¥7350 with two meals. Toyoko Inn, 498-10 Asahi-machi (from the north exit of the station, cross the street on the left side and walk for about 5 minutes), ☏ +81 852 60-1045. Internet access is available in the lobby, and coin laundry is available as well. Singles from ¥5040. 2 Matsue Universal Hotel Main Building (松江ユニバーサルホテル本館), Asahi-machi 471, ☏ +81 852 25-0001. Check-in: 16:00, check-out: 10:00. The Universal Hotel chain has several buildings around Matsue Station. Singles from ¥3898. 3 Matsue Ekimae Universal Hotel (松江駅前ユニバーサルホテル), Asahi-machi 460-8, ☏ +81 852 28-3000. Check-in: 16:00, check-out: 10:00. Singles from ¥4198. 4 Matsue Urban Hotel, Asahi-machi 590-3 (North of Matsue Station), ☏ +81 852 22-0002. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 10:00. No-nonsense business hotel. Rooms have LAN internet. Singles ¥5775, Doubles ¥8400. Tokyu Inn, 590 Asahi-machi, ☏ +81 852 27-0109. The most up-scale hotel in this area. Singles from ¥8200. 5 Hotel Alpha-1 Matsue (ホテル・アルファーワン松江), Otesenba-chō 567 (south of Matsue Station), ☏ +81 852 31-2200. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 10:00. Rooms have basic amenities and LAN internet. Singles from ¥4600.

Matsue Shinjiko Onsen, and around Matsue Castle Matsue City Hotel (松江シティーホテル), 31 Suetsuguhon-machi (take the bus from JR Matsue Station to Ohashi Kitazume (about 6 minutes, last departure 21:00)), ☏ +81 852 25-4100. A quirky business hotel. Although fine for a solo traveler, avoid double occupancy as the rooms are small even by business hotel standards and the so-called doubles only have one single bed. The hotel is easy to find, with a large clock tower on top; in fact, the owners have sprinkled their collection of antique clocks and other furniture throughout the hotel. Singles from ¥3800. 6 Matsue New Urban Hotel, Nishicha-machi 40-1 (Cross Matsue Ohashi bridge going north to the castle. It's the hotel with blue neon at the top on your left hand side), ☏ +81 852 23-0003. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 10:00. Lakeside rooms have views over Lake Shinji. Rooms have LAN internet. Parking is ¥525 per night. English is spoken. Singles ¥5775, Doubles ¥8400. 7 Hot

Go next

Day trips Izumo - Home to the Grand Shrine of Izumo (Izumo Taisha), one of the most important Shinto shrines in Japan Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine - A UNESCO World Heritage Site Yasugi - A town known for its sword making and home to Adachi Museum of Art and its famous gardens Yonago - A neighbouring city known as "little Osaka", famous for its food and bar scene Mount Daisen - This extinct volcano towering over the city of Yonago is also known as the Mount Fuji of West Japan. Great for hiking and skiing. Sakaiminato - Point of departure for ferries to Korea and Russia. Also known as the home town of cartoon character GeGeGe no Kitaro. Hamada Unnan Takahashi

Further out Oki Islands - A group of two small islands in the Sea of Japan, known for its distinct landscape and history