Maradi

Understand

The region of Maradi enjoys very fertile land, and the region is known for its peanuts, groundnuts, and livestock, and for the Nigerien staples of millet and sorghum. The city also benefits from factories producing cooking oil, plastic bags, and mattresses, and a strategic location along both the country's major east-west highway and along a primary road south to Nigeria. As a result, Maradi has an unusually robust economy for one of the world's poorest countries, and visitors can pick up on kind of a 'boom town' feel as they navigate the city's sprawling market district, stepping around trucks from a half-dozen West African countries and leaping to avoid the swarms of speeding motorcycles. If Maradi isn't Niger's New York, it certainly is Niger's Houston. Maradi's commercial and industrial identity makes it somewhat less of a draw for most tourists, and while there are many local attractions in the city and in the region that a traveler would find edifying, there are probably few who would view those attractions as being 'worth the trip' (8-10 hours by bus on rough roads from Niamey). Additionally, while international development agencies are prominent in Maradi as they are throughout Niger, the number of foreign aid workers based in the city is much smaller than in Niamey or Zinder, and the presence is far less detectable. As a result, foreigners may find the city far more difficult to visit than places like Niamey, Agadez, or Zinder. This is not because the residents are unfriendly - they are, on the whole, cheerfully welcoming people are delighted to chat with 'nassaru' (fair-skinned people, a word you will here often on your visit). The problem is more that the city has less of a tourist infrastructure than other cities - you will find no 'guides' selling their services in Maradi, and you are far more likely to encounter service providers (especially in restaurants and taxicabs) that don't speak French. However, intrepid travelers (or even those who simply are stuck in town for a night) will find Maradi a lively and entirely pleasant place to visit.

Getting there

Maradi is on the National Route 1, the main highway between Niamey and the entire southeast of the country (including the cities of Birnin Konni, Zinder, and Diffa, and passing through every administrative region of the country except Agadez). It is also the transportation hub for the region. This makes Maradi as easy and straightforward to travel to as any city in Niger.

By plane Maradi has a working airport, but the country's national airline no longer operates. Most of the traffic to the airport is government or military (during joint Nigerien-US military exercises, the airport became quite lively indeed). If you have the contacts, the UN and some other development organizations operate aircraft that call from time to time in Maradi; you can sometimes buy a seat on one of those planes, though this varies from organization to organization and even from manager to manager, not to mention the flight's planned payload, so do not count on it. If you can swing it, you will have the much-envied experience of making the trip in the fastest, most comfortable way possible.

By train There is no access to Maradi by train. The closest railhead might be at Kano, Nigeria (about 180 km south).

By car Maradi sits at the intersection of National Route 1, Niger's principle southern highway, and National Route 9, which runs south from the city through the town of Madaroundfa and into Nigeria, headed for Kano. On National Route 1, a trip by well-maintained car might be about 8 hours from Niamey (depending on a number of factors including the time of year, the weather, and the status of a massive highway maintenance project that was slowly chugging along in the regions of Tahoua and Dosso) and 2½ hours from Zinder. N.R. 1 skirts the city to the north; the turn off is clearly marked in both directions (but is very poorly regulated; slow way down and watch for trucks, motorcycles, bicycles, and donkey carts coming from all directions). This turn off will put you on the main street leading to the center of town. National Route 9 is more straightforward; you will arrive in the city from the south and find yourself right on the main street. Car rental is possible in Niamey only. It is expensive. Cars can be hired with their drivers in most major cities, including Niamey and Maradi; the rent for the car is somewhat cheaper, though you're still on the hook for the gas as well as the driver's per diem and upkeep. As a general rule, the quality of car you can get will diminish the farther away from the capital you get. It is strongly recommended that you hire a driver with

Getting around

Maradi is an easy city to get around in. The city center is very walkable, assuming you wish to brave the heat and the winding morass of unnamed streets. Few streets are named, and even when they are nobody knows them (and certainly not the house numbers on them). When you're taking a taxi or asking for directions, the convention is that you name a landmark near the place you're going to. Each driver's inventory of landmarks is a little different, and he may call the place you're headed something different (or in a different language) than what you or your guidebook think it's called. Most of them know the names of the cultural sites, the major government offices, the hotels, the markets and major stores, the bus stations, the popular bars and restaurants, and so on. If you are making advance arrangements to meet somebody, you might think to ask your party what they tell the taxi to get there. If you know where you're going and are communicating well, you can also give turn-by-turn directions (as you can once you've gotten to your closest landmark); be aware that this is a great loophole for a surprise fare increase (possibly an honest one) as the driver didn't know where he was headed in advance.

By taxi Taxis cruise the streets with some frequency during the day; they can become scarce after sunset, even during prime nightlife hours. There is no taxi company, and it's totally acceptable to ask a taxi driver for his cell phone number so that you can call for a pickup, or to arrange a pickup time, if you're in a remote location or out late. The driver might ask for a small fee to do this, but many don't, especially if there's a group of you. Like everywhere in Niger, taxis in Maradi are shared; legally, the driver may carry as many as four passengers who may have as many as different destinations. It's possible that you'll pick up as many as five or six, especially if some of them are children, but if it is really starting to cause a problem for you and you don't mind being thought of as the 'entitled white person,' you can speak up. To hail a taxi, stand on the side of the road and hold out your arm; most Nigeriens will hold it out level with the ground, let their hand hang off their wrist, and make a beckoning motion. An American style cab hail normally works as well. The driver will slow down; tell him where you are going and don't get in until he says it's OK. He may have other passengers, and your destination may not be in the direction you're going; this happens and it's nothing personal. Taxi rides in Niger are computed in terms of 'courses' -

See

1 Grand Marché. The Grand Marché (Big Market) occupies a two-block area in the center of town; it's a walled-off area studded with gates, so you might not recognize it from the street. Unlike most markets, there is life at here every day of the week, but to really see the orchestrated chaos as the commerce spills out into the surrounding area in all its glory, you should go during the market days, Monday and Friday. The chief attraction of the market is probably the spectacle of the thing; it's the place the locals go to do their shopping, so you won't see much that you would want to buy (though you'll encounter lots of people who would be delighted to sell it to you). One good exception is a corner with a few merchants who sell traditional charms and magic remedies (ask somebody for magani or medicament traditionel); you can get several types of magic charms and traditional jewelry from them, not to mention miles and miles of beads. These are typically extremely cheap and are a great chance to practice your bargaining skills without being out a ton of money, although many of the merchants don't speak French. While you're there, also take a moment to note the collections of traditional medicines and remedies. If you're planning on brushing up on your sorcery, you can find among the piles of herbs and plants things like hedgehog quills, chameleon tails, and even dried monkey heads. They might make fantastic gag gifts, but be forewarned that they are more expensive than you'd guess and that you can legally bring almost none of it back into the US or most European countries. (updated Aug 2017)

2 Sultan's Palace. The traditional chief for the city of Maradi lives in an impressive palace on a huge plaza on the west side of the city. The palace is visually striking from the outside. The chief's palace is actually his family's private home and the place where he holds court, so it isn't explicitly open to tourists. However, rumor has it that he likes meeting foreigners, so you might be able to charm your way in to watch him hold court, or for a tour or a private audience. A gift (money, or a more traditional gift like kola nuts) might grease the wheels. Even if you get in, expect to be shown to a comfortable chair and be kept waiting for some time (this is likely even if you make an appointment); you should seriously consider finding somebody to give you a primer on the etiquette for encountering a Hausa traditional chief before you try to go. (updated Aug 2017) 3 Artisans' Center. The Artisans' Center is in the north of the city, and is the workplace for a fr

Do

Haggle in the market. Bargaining your way through a West African market can be a fantastically entertaining way to spend an afternoon, and if you're looking for a chance to get into the swing of things before you encounter the markets and tourist shops in Niamey or Zinder (where they have more things that you might actually want to buy, but conversely they are also absolutely trying to screw you) then go out for a dry run to buy a mango, a bolt of fabric, or a piece of minor jewelry in the Maradi market or in one of the specialty shops along the market's periphery. Prices here will be less, and the markup you get for bring a foreigner will also be less. Be friendly; bargaining is a social activity, and you'll want to start by asking after the merchant's health and family, just like any other polite conversation. Ask for a price on what you want; often, you'll be asked to pick out everything you want before you get a final quote (the more you buy, the less you'll be charged per item). For food, you can generally give a counter-offer of about 2/3 the quote; for things like textiles you might even try 1/2. Sometimes this will draw a flat-out refusal; in this case, in Niger it's OK to amend your offer; alternately, you might get a counter-offer from the merchant, and the process will continue. If you're trying to get that last discount, consider flattery ("Because you're a good friend!") or the phrase saboda gobe, a Hausa expression implying that you should get a good price because you'll come back tomorrow or recommend the merchant to your friends; your use of this phrase alone will delight many merchants. Unlike in many Asian or Middle Eastern cultures, bargaining in Niger with all but the most shameless of tourist traps should remain a friendly process; do not insult the merchant or his wares (unless the item is legitimately flawed; if you want it anyway, this justifies a discount) and if you sense that the merchant is become legitimately angry with you, then you're driving too hard. Remember that these people are very poor by any standard you relate to; if he puts you out ten extra cents, is it really that big a deal? Festivals. Check your calendar before you visit, or ask around. Niger has a variety of major festivals, and most are based on the Muslim lunar calendar, and so their dates change. Ramadan, the month of fasting, can bring a general slowdown and some sluggishness to Maradi, but if you're lucky enough to be there for Eid, at the end of the month, then you must absolutely take a taxi out to Tibiri, 20 minutes away. Tibiri is the home of the Sa

Buy

Traditional Tuareg Handicrafts at the artisanal center. The Tuaregs (and also the Fulani) are internationally known for the quality of their silver and their leatherwork; the Center's store has a decent selection of highly distinctive silver or nickel rings, bracelets, necklaces, and earrings for both men and women. Ask about the Tuareg crosses; they are a common motif, and the story behind them is engaging. The leather briefcases and sandals are surprisingly sturdy, though rarely as comfortable or as practical as you would hope. If you want something truly specific (and have space in your luggage), consider a Tuareg camel saddle, sword, or wallet; these are all things you can spot the Tuaregs around you actually wearing and using in their everyday life, and they typically exemplify the skill and the aesthetic of both the leatherwork and the metalwork. Kola nut. If you want to sample Niger's most distinctive vice, buy a kola nut. This famously caffeinated tree fruit was one of the early ingredients in Coca-Cola, and it's astoundingly bitter but has a kick that will cause you to never respect your morning coffee again. Kola nuts typically break apart quite naturally into cloves, and many Nigeriens that socially chew goro, as it's known, typically buy only one and share. Dare to eat a whole one only in the early morning, or before your trans-Atlantic flight. Unlike street food, kola nuts are not washed; take it with you and wash it carefully (ideally with a little bleach in the water) or at least peel it (not as foolproof) before you eat it. The flesh has an interesting tendency to turn orange when exposed to air. Kola nuts are a very traditional gift for invited guests at weddings and baptisms. Mortar and Pestle. Maradi (and particular the town of Guidan Roumdji, just to the northwest) are widely thought by the locals to sell the best-crafted mortars and pestles in Niger. Most of them are quite large, used by women and girls in the country to grind flour by hand and in industrial quantities all day (the deep thump-thump-thump of this activity is a constant ambient noise in villages; try it once and you'll develop an instant sympathy for them), but they sell smaller ones for crushing vegetables to make thick Nigerien sauces. If you can find a small one and you have the space in your bag, they are actually worth getting; they are infinitely smarter in their design than the European-style ones you find in stores, and your experience with making guacamole might be changed forever.

Eat

Budget Street food - Try the street food. All day long - and especially in the morning, and around 15:00-17:00 - you will witness ladies and the occasional gentleman manning grills, coffee shops, and little fire pits with woks full of bubbling oil along the roadside. Popular belief has it that this kind of street food is an absolutely foolproof way to come down with one of a variety of truly wretched illnesses, but this is not entirely true. In fact, if you buy your street food from the person actually making it (not from one of the folks wandering the street selling it off a platter on their head or a bucket on the ground, where the health concern is much fairer), it is likely to be one of the safest things you can eat, having traveled directly from a pot of boiling oil to your hands (so to speak) and eaten hot (mitigate your risk by getting them in a plastic bag instead of a bowl, or bringing your own). Certainly, it isn't as safe as what you'll eat in a tourist or hotel restaurant, but it's a reasonably safe bet, and Nigerien street food is actually quite tasty. In particular, try kossai - deep-fried fritters made from black-eyed peas and typically served with a spicy powder. This is a regional specialty from southeastern Niger. Other deep fried goodies include weyna (also called by its Zarma name, massa), which are cakes of fermented millet, and fanke, donuts served with sugar or a savory sauce. Typically, 200 or 250 FCFA of any of them will be a perfectly adequate light breakfast or snack. You can also try West African coffee - instant coffee made with sweetened, condensed milk for a tasty morning wakeup, and as you wander, you'll spot other treats (slow-roasted chickens, grilled meat skewers coated in peanut resin, and so on) that will make your mouth water. Some neighborhoods are particularly good for street food: try walking the main street from the market to the high school, visit the truck stop and the tax office on the main street on the south side of town, or go where the Peace Corps volunteers used to go, the block between the Ministry of Youth and Culture and the Regional Hospital. Roadside restaurants - Your best option for tasty budget eating in Maradi is to look at the selection of unnamed roadside eateries that are essentially street-food vendors upgraded with a roof and a table or two. There is often a crowd out in the morning, where most serve bread and butter, fried egg sandwiches, coffee, and tea, although you can also get hot West African food such as rice and sauce or rice and beans. In the evening, your pickings get more plenti

Drink & nightlife

Maradi is at the heart of a highly conservative, Muslim region of West Africa - so much so that their fellow Hausas across the border in Nigeria have instituted Sharia law in their communities. While the Hausa areas of Niger (as well as their countrymen) have resisted the urge to follow along, it wouldn't be a stretch to claim that you will meet almost nobody who will admit to you that they ever consume alcoholic beverages, and most of them are telling the truth. As a result, beer and wine are difficult to come by. However, the number of foreign nationals (as well as the more moderate bureaucrats and technical workers from the western part of the country) coupled with the Hausa entrepreneurial spirit (as strong as anywhere you'll find) means you can rest assured that when you're ready to relax with that beer, your desire can be fulfilled. There is one liquor store in the city as of this writing that is run by a couple of agreeable gentlemen who claim to never touch their own product. It is in an unmarked, gray building with a colonnaded front walk opposite the northwest corner of the Grand Marché; facing the building, it's the door farthest to the left. Their hours are variable and unpredictable. A can or bottle of beer might be 600-700 FCFA; a bottle of name-brand spirits costs about what it might in the United States ($12-30). On most days, you will be able to find a couple of types of import beer, some cheap wine, and a few bottles of low-cost, hangover-inducing French spirits (Bony's, who has a line that includes gin, whiskey, and pastis among other things). You can often, but not always, often find a bottle or two of the labels you know; many of the shop's clients are foreigners, so they seem to try to keep inventory. Beefeater gin, Jack Daniel's, and Typhoon rum are common options. Braniger, the national bottler, also does sell beer, but they are the distributor for the country's restaurants: You need an account and must be willing to buy by the flat - one hopes you aren't that desperate. In the early afternoon, your safest bets for a beer are the restaurant at the Guest House. Do not get completely smashed in public in Maradi unless you have your own way home (and, obviously, a driver). Many locals view drunkenness as negatively as they do drink, and there are plenty of anecdotes about taxi drivers who refused to carry somebody who seemed intoxicated. Nigeriens are often more indulgent of foreigners, but don't push your luck too far. This may not be the normal sense of 'drink' in a guidebook, but as Niger is one of the world's hottest countries,

Sleep

There are only a few hotels in Maradi, and none of what might be truly considered 'budget' hotels. Nigeriens are not avid travelers, as a general rule, and when they do travel, most make arrangements for accommodation with the family member, friend, agency, or co-worker that they are traveling to visit (tourism for the sake of tourism is a concept foreign to most Nigeriens; you are likely to be regarded with a touch of confusion or even interested surprise if you explain that this is what you're doing). For this reason, many of the aid and missionary organizations that work in Maradi have their own accommodations for their people when they are in town; if you happen to have a connection to such an organization, you might do well to inquire, although many of these agencies have fairly strict standards of use.

1 The Guesthouse, ☏ +227 20 410 754. Most expensive and also nicest hotel in Maradi. 2 Hotel Jangorzo, ☏ +227 20 410 140. Also pricey, but also nice.

Go next

You can stop over in Maradi for a short visit (or just a good night's rest) en route to or from Zinder or Diffa, or use Maradi as a jumping-off point to cross the border into Nigeria on your way to Katsina or Kano. There is supposed to be a Nigerien consulate in Kano; there is no consulate for Nigeria in Maradi, so you'll need to have any necessary documents before you arrive. It may or may not be possible to transit north towards Agadez from Maradi; if it is possible, the method will be neither straightforward nor pleasant (i.e. a series of bush taxis on desert tracks), so you're better off trying it in Zinder or, better yet, from Konni, where you can take the bus.