Mandalay

Understand

History The very name Mandalay evokes the splendours of old Burma. But most people will be surprised to learn that Mandalay is not an old city, not even a medieval one, but rather a new city created by King Mingdon Min in 1857 as the new capital of the kingdom of Ava. Mingdon moved the capital from Amarapura to this site at the base of Mandalay Hill as it was more easily defendable against British attack. Only two Burmese kings ruled from there, King Mingdon and King Thibaw, before the British conquest of Upper Burma in 1885. It was a city of splendour between 1858 and 1885, but most of the magnificence has vanished, gone in the fires that consume wooden structures and by intensive Allied bombing during the Second World War. Much of the city, neatly planned with its lettered roads and numbered streets, is a British creation. Though no longer the capital, the city remained the religious and cultural hub of the country during British rule. The once magnificent royal palace and the great Atumashi ("incomparable") pagoda, King Mingdon Min's finest creations, are modern reconstructions. Today, Mandalay lies at the end of the Lashio Rd and it is, by Burmese standards, relatively prosperous as a centre for trade with China and India. Despite the capital having been moved to Naypyidaw, Mandalay remains by far the main commercial centre of Upper Myanmar. A 7.7-magnitude earthquake struck Mandalay on 28th March 2025. The Ava Bridge, Mandalay University, parts of the Royal Palace and many ancient pagodas were destroyed.

People Mandalay is ethnically diverse, with the Bamar (Burmans) forming a slight majority. There has been a major influx of Chinese from mainland China, and the Chinese (both recent migrants and descendants of colonial-era immigrants) form 30-40% of the population. Their influence is seen in the Chinese-style glass buildings throughout the city. Other ethnic groups include the Shan, who are ethnically and linguistically related to the Thais and Laotians, and the Karen (Kayin). There is also a sizable ethnic Indian population.

Climate

Mandalay has a semi-tropical climate. Winter (which is dry and cold) lasts from Nov-Feb, and summer lasts from Mar-May. Because Mandalay is in the central dry zone, it receives far less rain than the more tropical south.

Getting there

By plane 1 Mandalay International Airport (MDL IATA) (35 km south of the city centre in Tada-U). A gleaming modern facility, serves the area with flights to places in Myanmar and some international flights. There are also 3 flights weekly to and from Kunming on flight MU2029 for about CNY2,000 one way. Tourist SIM cards can be purchased from a counter at the airport. A mobile plan with 5 GB and 60 minutes costs less than 10,000 kyat. (updated May 2019) Taxis from the airport are 15,000 kyat or 4,000 kyat per person if you fill the vehicle with others. A shared bus is available for 4,000 kyat but may leave before you can exchange cash and purchase a SIM card. Fill out your entry card while on the plane to avoid being at the back of the queue. Towards the airport taxis cost around 15,000 kyat (Sep 2017) and take roughly ½ hr from the city centre. There is a security check before check-in, and you need to have your ticket, email verification or something related to your flight to get through. Further security check after check-in.

By train 2 Mandalay Central Railway Station (at 78th east and 30th north Street). (updated May 2019) From specific destinations:

Yangon – There are several trains daily from Yangon. While the tracks are old and, in some cases, the carriages may be old, the fifteen hour journey is quite pleasant. Trains operate during the day so that trains do not cross Pyinmana in the dark, although the privately managed Dagon Mann Express runs overnight. Fares range from about US$15 (ordinary class/hard seat) to US$50 (air-conditioned sleeper on the Dagon Mann Express). Lashio, Hsipaw and Pyin U Lwin – There are two trains daily from Pyin U Lwin (US$4/2) and one from Lashio via Hsipaw and Pwin U Lwin (US$9/3 from Hsipaw). These trains are slow, crowded, but fascinating. The Pyin U Lwin - Hsipaw section includes the famous Gokteik Viaduct, a feat of Raj ingenuity. Note: the Gokteik Viaduct was damaged during a battle in August 2025 and is yet to re-open. Myitkyina – This 24-hr journey is on old rolling stock and even older tracks so expect it to be bumpy.

By bus 3 Highway Bus Station (Chan Mya Shwe Pyi / Kywe Se Kan). You can either take a taxi or pick-up into town. Taxis are overly expensive (quoting prices as high as 2,000 kyat per person; don't pay more than 5,000 kyat for the car), and often bargain in a mob fashion (except they all offer the same price and try to gang-up on you). A far cheaper option is to simply walk out of the bus station yards to the west, and find one of the pick-ups that just ran a load of people to the statio

Getting around

By bicycle The best and most flexible way to see the city is by bicycle, as traffic isn't as heavy as in other Asian cities.

By pickup The cheapest local transportation network consists of mini-trucks, loaded with passages on two benches on the back. They run along routes all over Manadaly starting at the centre at the market at 84th/29th. A number (Burmese symbol) defines where the truck is going and usually two people are standing at the back, shouting their destination and helping people get in. If you catch one at the main hub, it is easier to ask people for the right number and price. Usually 500 kyat pp, sitting in cabin might be more expensive. Routes include:

8 (၈): Centre - Aramapura (along Mandalay - Sagaing Rd.) 23 (၂၃): Centre - 78th south along runway - bus station at Aung Myint Mo Hotel (buses to/from Bagan, Myawaddy)

By moto-taxi Motorbike taxis try to charge you overly expensive prices, but they would eventually turn out to be cheaper than car taxis if there are only one or two people. Don't pay more than 1,000 kyat for a ride to the centre, including to Mandalay Hill. You can get full-day (09:00-sunset) tours for 10,000 kyat. The driver will take you to the ancient cities, Sagaing and to Amarapura for sunset.

By moto-rental Renting a motorcycle can be a dangerous in Mandalay as driving can be chaotic, but it is a great way to see the city if you are experienced. Some hotels on 25th St rent bikes and there is an American expat in the centre who rents dirt bikes and motorbikes that can be delivered to your hotel.

By taxi Taxis are relatively inexpensive and are excellent for travelling around Mandalay. Many sights are centred around Mandalay Hill, which makes walking feasible in that area. However, beware it is not always easy to get hold of a taxi depending on which part of the city you are, so making arrangements beforehand can help.

By trishaw Trishaws (cycle rickshaws) are a convenient way of getting around in Mandalay if you're able to find one. If you find a driver who speaks good English you can have a tour guide and transport together for a reasonable price with a little bargaining. They only hold one or two persons.

See

Mandalay has a "Mandalay Zone Fee" of 10,000 kyat that covers most of the central attractions and lasts for about a week. Buy it from the first attraction you visit. The tickets are not always checked at all attractions and you might be able to get individual cheaper tickets for some attractions. Access to the Mandalay hill requires an additional entry fee of 1,000 kyat, and Mingung and Sagaing are 5,000 kyat extra both (not always enforced).

Markets 1 Jade Market, 87th St. An interesting look at the jade trade in Mandalay. See raw jade being cut, polished and finally sold (sometimes even over smartphones). There are also stalls selling jade jewellery and furnishings, but be sure to do your homework beforehand or you risk getting ripped off. All foreigners are supposed to pay an entrance fee but it is sporadically enforced. Souvenirs for less than US$1. 2500 kyat. (updated Sep 2018) 2 Flower Market, 26 and Pulaing Street. A small market with dozens of vendors selling a wide variety of flowers and greenery. Visitors may also venture into the larger market to the north where vegetables, fish, meat and fruit is sold and repacked for distribution. (updated Sep 2018)

Religious sites 3 Maha Myat Muni Paya (Pronounced, ma-ha myah mu-ni pei-ya). Unlike the other main attractions which are mostly located around Mandalay hill, Myanmar's second holiest pilgrimage site is located to the south-west end of the city. It contains a 4 m high Buddha statue, made of gold and decorated with precious jewels. A few inches worth of gold has been pressed onto the statue in the form of gold-leaves, leaving only the face open. Women are not allowed to enter the main sanctuary where the statue is located, but men may do so and also touch the Muni. The statue was brought from Rakhine State, southeast of Mandalay. Nearby the central hall, there is a hall displaying statues stolen from Rakhine state, which were in turn stolen through a string of robberies from Ang Kor Wat via Thailand. The figures may have belonged to Hindu mythological figures Shiva and Airavat, the elephant of Indra. You will see people rubbing the statues as they believes this cures of them of ailments, especially by touching the corresponding body part on the statue. Visit the site around 04:30–05:00 for the amazing ceremony of washing the Buddha's face, which occurs every day and is attended by hundreds of people. 1,000 kyat surcharge for photography. 4 Kuthodaw Paya (pronounced, ku-tho-dau pei-ya) (At the foot of Mandalay Hill). This is known as the site of the world's largest book. Built by King Mingdon

Do

1 Mandalay Hill. One of the favourite sunset spots, and a good quarter-day activity. The climb is enjoyable, providing scenic views of several other attractions and Mandalay. From the base of Mandalay Hill you can either climb the stairs or take a pick-up to Sutaungpyei Pagoda at the top, but the walk is probably worth it in order to catch the scenic views along the way. The climb takes about 30-45 min and requires moderate fitness, but is not overly demanding and is in the shade. Has views of Kuthodaw and Sandamuni paya, and the royal palace in the distance. Plenty of stray dogs, shops and other interesting stops (Buddhas, pagodas, viewpoints) line the path, such as the Gothama Buddha shrine. The two main south entrances are guarded by either Nats (spirit figures) or Chinthes (great mythical lions), but there are several other entrances.Along the climb from the southern stairs near the place where these pathways merge, you come across a large statue of Buddha and his kneeling disciple Ananda, who climbed this very hill two centuries before Mingdon conquered it. Buddha is seen ominously pointing towards Mandalay, indicating that after two centuries, the capital of this region would shift to Mandalay. It is this prophecy that Mingdon fulfilled.Further up, you come across a shrine showing the various stages of a man's life: birth, youth, monk, old age and death. Interestingly, there are similarities between the birth and death stage indicating the cyclical nature of life believed by Buddhism. You can see same set of figures as an image in Shwezigon Pagoda in Bagan.At the top, accessed by escalator, is the shrine to the ogress Sandamukhi on the penultimate storey. Sandamukhi is depicted as offering her cut breasts to Buddha in a scary gesture. It is said the ogress took rebirth as King Mingdon.Additional 1,000 kyat for foreigners to enter the topmost level and see the pagoda, which can be avoided by watching the sunset from the Ogress storey. However, the open four-directional view from the top storey may be worth it, apart from the access to the toilets in this area. Footwear including socks are prohibited at the pagoda, which offers nice views of Mandalay and the surrounding plains. At sunset, Sutaungpyei Pagoda crowds with tourists, and many monks and other locals climb the stairs with the hope of talking to foreigners and practicing their English. Shared pick-up trucks to the base of Mandalay Hill run along 83rd St, one block from the Clock Tower, and leave every 20 minutes (500-1,000 kyat). Private pick-ups are also available (5,000 kyat). Motorbike ta

Buy

1 Zegyo Market (Pronounced zei-gyo). A street bazaar near the city centre. Some other markets are listed under #See.

Eat

Mandalay is a former capital of Myanmar and a major trading centre between Myanmar and its neighbours, China, India and Bangladesh. As a result, it has a notable array of specialities from various regions in Myanmar and from other countries. Cuisine from the Shan State (usually including fermented pastes, vegetables and meats) is popular in Mandalay which has a sizable Shan minority. Muslim Chinese noodles, pronounced pan-THEI-kao-sweh (flat thin noodles mixed with an array of spices, chili, and chicken), are also famous in Mandalay and the surrounding hills. Regardless of where you eat, try to leave space for Htou moun(to-moh), a traditional Burmese dessert sold only in Mandalay; it contains a lot of oil and is extremely sweet.

1 Myint Myint Khin. Recognisable by the abbreviation MMK on the company logo, the most famous purveyor of Htou moun in all of Myanmar. (updated Jul 2023) 2 Unique Bar and Restaurant, 66th Street (near Mandalay hill). This bar and restaurant is near the foot of the Mandalay hill, and provides an easily accessible lunch spot during a tour of the nearby monasteries and the hill. The cuisine is a mix of Western, local and South-east Asian options. The curries are worth trying for their variety, and the coffee is good. The bar has an extensive range of cocktails, and provides hookahs. Very popular in the evenings, but less so during lunch hours. main course at around 5,500 kyat. 3 Mingalar-bar, corner of 71st and 29th Street. up to 21:30. A good place to try a large variety of local Myanmarese cuisine. Apart from the pun-ny name, the restaurant's dishes are quite creative. The best part about the main course is the large spread of sumptuous appetizers and sauces of different types, served at the beginning of the meal. The local twists on many dishes is great. Don't leave without trying the special dry mango pork curry and mutton curry, and it is also worth attempting the river prawns, and if available, boar. There is a sumptuous dessert platter also available with many local sweets made of unique combinations of glutinous rice, banana, peanut, coconut etc. The service is very friendly. box from 2,000 kyat; 5,000 kyat for a full main course. Shop for Htou mont, 78th and 31st Street (left of the train station). They will normally let you try the different types. You can have mixed boxes as well. Eat them within 4-7 days (depends on type). box from 1,800 kyat. Street Pancakes (Indian roti), 81st & 26th (in the SW block of 81st & 26th St.; enter the unmarked alley going west, next to Myawaddy Bank). Afternoons you'll find a pleasant

Drink & nightlife

Golden Coffee Shop, No. 80/4, 35th St (between 88th and 89th St). Free Wi-Fi. Decently priced fruit shakes and coffees and a good array of snacks. Friendly staff try their best with English, but best take a phrasebook if you want to do more than point at pictures on menus. 500-2,000 kyat for drinks. Similar for food/snacks. Shwe Gokai, 35th St (N side of 35th St a few shops W of 68th St). This is a Chinese BBQ restaurant famous for its BBQ beef tongue and rice noodle soup (ba ba si). There is no English sign, but it is easy enough to find as it is the only BBQ restaurant on the north side of 35th St. It is next to a pottery store with many pots in front. V Cafe, No 408, Corner of 80th & 25th St (Near Royal Guesthouse), ☏ +95 9 6804928. A cool cafe at Mandalay with good food, friendly and attentive service at fair price. A nice escape from the teeming streets for those weary after a tiring day. US$5-10. 1 Nylon Ice Cream Bar, Corner of 83rd and 25th Streets. A bit of a novelty, ice cream, milkshakes, fruit juices and beers that you can drink on the side of the bustling street. Flavours are geared towards Asian tastes, there's no food unless street sellers are operating, and there's usually a gaggle of beggars (who seem to be in league with the owners) harassing drinkers. (updated Jun 2015)

Sleep

Budget Most budget guesthouses are around 25th St, between 81st and 84th Streets. There are many more than those listed here.

AD1 Hotel, Eindawya Sintada St, Chan Aye Thar San Township (E of Eindawya Pagoda), ☏ +95 2 34505, +95 9 6502430. Central location in the heart of Zeygo Market. The rooftop is something special. Rooms are tacky and baths dated, but the price is OK. US$15-30. Nylon Hotel (Corner of 83rd & 25th St), ☏ +95 2 33460, +95 2 66550, +95 2 60757. Check-in: early, if room available, check-out: 12:00. Room, bathroom quality is standard for Burma at this price. Basic breakfast and working Wi-Fi in room included. Extremely friendly staff, except for the owner (unfriendly, doesn't care about his guests at all). They may try to scam you on laundry, so clarify the price per unit and count for yourself. US$10-20. Mahar Hotel (24 St, between 83 & 84th St), ☏ +95 2 22854, [email protected]. Check-out: 12:00. One block from Nylon Hotel, rooms are very clean and relatively good value for the price (for Mandalay), though single rooms are small. Hot shower, free Wi-Fi in rooms, standard breakfast included, friendly staff. US$18-25. 1 Peacock Lodge, 60th St, ☏ +95 9 2042059, [email protected]. Terrific home stay B&B, with very friendly family staff. A bit out of the centre. Has bike rentals. Free Wi-Fi in the rooms, includes breakfast outside in the garden. Hot shower. Can organise airport transfers, bus tickets, etc. Standard double US$35, Deluxe double US$55. (updated Sep 2014) Rich Queen, 87th St (between 26th & 27th St), ☏ +95 2 260172, +95 9 91028348. New and has a flash backpacker feel to it. Has modern facilities including the baths. All rooms have air-con. US$25. Yoe Yoe Lay Guesthouse, Between 35th and 36th St & 57th and 58th St, Shwe Gal Pwar (about 10 min E of downtown; you can also take local pickup Bus 11 from 35th street, RMB300), ☏ +95 944 404 1944, [email protected]. Check-in: 12:30, check-out: 12:00. Great breakfast included with fruits, western and local food, free Wi-Fi & drinking water. Clean bathrooms with warm water. The owner "Mama" and the staff are kind and helpful. Has a homestay feeling. Bicycles for rent (2,000 kyat per day). Motorbikes for rent (10,000 kyat semi automatic and 12,000 kyat automatic. 24 hours). They organize bus tickets and sightseeing tours. Booking through their Facebook page or email. Air-con en suite double: US$30, shared bathroom: US$25, 4- and 6-bed dorm rooms: US$7 per person (not including breakfast. You can have it for additional 2,000 kyat. It is worth it: orange juice, coffee/t

Go next

Amarapura (Pyi) – Famous for its ancient sights, and for U Bein bridge, the world's longest teak bridge. Hsipaw – Bus leaves at 06:00 and 14:30 (5,000 kyat), 5 hr. Mawlamyine – Overnight bus Shwe Mandalar at 18:00 (15,000 kyat), leaves from the Highway Bus Station. Quite luxurious (Swedish) bus, includes a towel, pillow, blanket toothbrushes and water. Arrives at Mawlamyine at 05:00. Maymyo (Pyin U Lwin) – A former British hill station in a lush alpine forest. The small town contains a variety of colonial relics, and is most famous for its botanical gardens (modelled on England's Kew Gardens). Also known for the Defence Services Academy, the top-ranked military academy in Myanmar. Shared taxis come pick you up (6,500 kyat, back seat, 7,000 kyat front, 1½ hr). Pickups leave from the corner of 27th and 82nd (1,500 kyat, 2 hr). Train is very scenic, and is a must-do train journey if you like trains. It leaves Mandalay at 04:00 (US$3 for upper class). Mingun – Best known for the Mingun Bell (one of the largest bells in the world), is a boat ride away. Boats leave from the Mingun jetty (all drivers know it) at 09:00 and return at 13:00. 5,000 kyat return. Pyin U Lwin – Hill station established by the British. Pick-up trucks run east along 35th street and take about 2 hours and cost 1,500 kyat. Shared taxis leave from 27th and 79th streets (next to the Mother's World Hotel). Depart when full. They will pick-up in Mandalay, and drop off at your desired destination in Pyin U Lwin. Cost was 7000 kyat (May 2019). The train for Pyin U Lwin departs from the railway station each morning at 04:00 (May 2019). Sagaing (to the east) – Has many Buddhist temples and monasteries, especially on Sagaing Hill. Yangon – Overnight buses at 07:00 and 09:00 (10,500 kyat). Luxury bus for 16,000 kyat. Leaves from the Highway Bus Station. Bagan by bus (OK-Bus with pick up and drop off at your hotels) 8,000 kyat. By slow boat (13 hr) on Sundays and Wednesdays at 05:30 for US$15 or express boat (8 hr) daily at 07:00 but only Nov-Feb, US$45. Ticket office for both in 35th Street & Sein Pann Road (kyat not accepted)