Manaus

Understand

Its name means "Mother of Gods" in the indigenous language. Two rivers run side by side for many miles of different colors, running together: the "Meeting of Waters". Legend has it that they never mix. The wealth of the primeval forest becomes visible first of all in the architecture of the city. The city enriched and the rubber barons afforded big European luxury such as the Amazonas Opera House. Other monuments from this epoch are the Mercado Municipal, and the arts center Palacio Rio Negro, located among fascinating Portuguese façades. Today Manaus is a foreign trade zone. Foreign enterprises pay no import duties here, guaranteeing a certain income for the city and the region. Electronics, wood industry and oil refineries have settled in the outskirts in industrial areas. The harbour is the most important trading center for the care of the city with regional, national and international products. The city is pleasant and friendly, although quite hot, and is still a major port, and a good starting point for river tours. The Rio Negro (northern) branch of the Amazon is the color of strong tea, peaty brown and its comparative acidity means few mosquitoes. At Manaus the Amazon rises and falls almost twenty meters between seasons. In May and June it's at its peak, full and very wide, spreading way out into the trees. In November and December it's low; still massive but with sandbars. Of all cities you can reach when voyaging along the Amazon River, Manaus is by far the most expensive.

Climate

In the heart of one of the most humid tropical forests in the world, expect a lot of heat and humidity in Manaus. Average temperatures in Manaus tend to exceed 30º C (86º F), but with a greater thermal sensation, due to humidity. In September, temperatures often reach 40º C (104º F). Manaus does not have winter, summer, spring or autumn; there are only two seasons in the city: a rainy season (from December to May), with long periods of continuous rain and frequent thunderstorms that fill the rivers, forming igapós (forests flooded by rivers, similar to swamps), and a season drought (from June to November), when it still rains, but to a lesser extent. At that time, the rivers lower the waters and begin to form beaches on the banks. Regardless of the time you visit, it is recommended to wear light clothes and an umbrella to protect yourself from showers and high temperatures.

Getting there

By plane 1 Manaus International Airport / Eduardo Gomes (MAO IATA) (The airport is some 15 km by road from the city centre). The airport is modern and clean, and the airside has many 24h shops. Flights on the wee hours are common at this airport, and some passengers overnight there. (updated Nov 2019) Manaus is over 2,700 km from São Paulo or Rio de Janeiro which takes about four hours by air. Coming from North America or Europe, if you can't get a direct flight, the best option price- and route-wise is probably to connect in Fortaleza FOR IATA, the international hub of Northern Brazil (and it might be considerably cheaper to buy an international ticket to Fortaleza and independent domestic one from Fortaleza to Manaus). Direct international flights: Buenos Aires:

Miami: daily with American Airlines and once a week with Latam Orlando: once a week with Gol Linhas Aéreas Panama City: 4 days a week with Copa Airlines Brazil flagship airlines Latam, Gol and Azul have frequent direct flights to major Brazilian cities such as Rio de Janeiro, São Paulo and Brasília, as well as regional capitals, and Azul also flies to the triple border town of Tabatinga. Regional airline Mapoperates a turboprop fleet to towns such as Tefé, Parintins, Altamira and Porto Trombetas. From the airport to the region of the Amazonas Theater, city bus line 306 costs R$ 3,80 and line 813 with aircon costs R$ 4,20 (the latter are similar to minivans and you'll feel cramped if carrying big luggage). A similar ride costs around R$ 20 on mobile hailing car apps when no surge factor is in place, and R$ 52 by conventional taxis (April 2019).

By boat Manaus is a major destination for boats on the Amazon River. From Belém on the Atlantic Coast, it takes about five days. Boats go to Porto Velho two-three times per week. Tabatinga on the border with Colombia can also be reached by boat from Manaus, with connections further on to Iquitos in Peru. For finding boat connections between Tabatinga and Manaus Navegam covers this route. If you want to save a few hours on your way to Colombia or Peru, ask the according boat company if they stop in Manacapuru, so you can take the boat from there.

By bus Due to road conditions, there is very little (if any) long-distance bus service originating from major cities in Brazil. There are daily buses to Boa Vista in the north and to destinations in Venezuela. The bus from Caracas in Venezuela takes about 36 hours, but it is air-conditioned, has comfortable reclining seats and a toilet.

Getting around

Manaus is very big, its urban part sprawling some 400 km2 (150 sq mi) (versus 100 km2 (39 sq mi) for Paris or 200 km2 (77 sq mi) for Buenos Aires). If you plan to move around the city independently, it's important to find accommodation either downtown or close to the main axis of Av. Constantino Nery and Av. Djalma Batista. The main city transit option is buses, and the fare is R$ 3.80 (April 2019). One can change buses free of charge at the city terminals T1, T2, T3 and T4, or use a city bus card to board a second bus within 1½ hr free of charge. To get a card, visit one of SINETRAM offices - the first card for each person is free, then R$ 15. There is a system of city bikes called MANÔbike, but it's only available downtown where distances are walkable. Besides, Manaus is somewhat hilly and inconvenient for most uncommitted riders.

See

1 Teatro Amazonas (Amazonas Opera House), Praça São Sebastião, Center, ☏ +55 92 3622-1880. The Opera House was built during the heyday of rubber trade, using materials from all over the world, and was once visited by all the most famous opera divas and maestros. Regular guided tours in English, R$ 20. There are frequent free performances, often advertised on the SEC Facebook Channel; be sure to arrive at least an hour in advance to secure a seat. Also, check out the Largo de São Sebastião just to the east to experience this square with Opening of the Ports of Friendly Nations statue and historic buildings around. (updated Apr 2019) Saint Sebastian, Martyr and Saint Francis of Assisi Parish (Paróquia São Sebastião, Mártir e São Francisco de Assis), Rua 10 de Julho (across from the Largo de Sao Sebastiao.). This spooky-looking 19th-century neoclassical church with an Italian-style interior looks so much older. (updated Oct 2020) 2 Museu da Casa Eduardo Ribeiro, R. José Clemente, 322 - Centro, ☏ +55 92 3631 2938. Tu-F 09ː00-17ː00, Su 09ː00-13ː00, closed F Sa. Original home of first Afro-Brazilian governor of Amazonas state who made modern Manaus. (updated Oct 2020) 3 Mercado Municipal Adolpho Lisboa (City market), Rua dos Barés s/n. 8h-22h. After a renovation, most stalls were moved to the nearby Feira da Banana and Adolpho Lisboa became a clean and organized market, albeit lacking some soul. The main hall sells mostly souvenirs, the smaller ones to the left and right fish and meat. The restaurants inside it are affordable (mains for R$13-20) and a great option on Sundays and holidays when the majority of cheap eateries are closed. (updated Apr 2019) 4 Palácio Rio Negro (Rio Negro Palace), Av. 7 de Setembro, 1546, ☏ +55 92 3232-4450. 09:00-17:00. Built by a German rich-man in the "golden age", the palace eventually became property of the government, which transformed it in a cultural center. Visits are free, being escorted by a staff-member is compulsory. Around the estate are manicured grounds and paths that culminate to the south at Parque Jefferson Peres, an impressive plaza of fountains, canals, and statuary close to the Rio Negro. (updated Apr 2019) 5 Praca Heliodoro Balbi (Heliodoro Balbi Square). Leafy plaza that is abutted by the Provincial Palace and Police Square. (updated Oct 2020) 6 Palacete Provincial (Provincial Palace) (on Heliodoro Balbi Square), ☏ +55 92 3631 3632. Daily 09ː00-15ː00. This grand architectural specimen is also host to several museums, including the Museu de Arqueologia, the Pinacoteca do Estado (plastic arts center), Museu T

Do

Adventure trips to the rainforest There are a number of companies operating jungle adventure trips from Manaus, but only a few seem to be more established and reputable. First you need to check if the Tour Operator has a valid Embratur (Brazilian Tourism Board) registry. Then you make up your mind what you really want. You need to travel at least 100 km from Manaus to see virgin rain forest and the wild life you are looking for.

Location There are basically two main areas which you can explore: the Rio Negro basin and the South of Rio Amazonas. Both of these regions are (sparsely) inhabited, so you will not be completely isolated from civilization. If you want to make a trip to a reserve or a remote area, ask for a special expedition package and plan to pay much more and spend a few days for the transfer to and from the reserve. Rio Negro is an area that is great for the jungle vegetation and for the lack of mosquitoes (due to the acidity of the river). Unfortunately, the lack of mosquitoes means there are a lot fewer animals that live there. The South of Rio Amazonas is a network of rivers, lakes and channels. There are mosquitoes and wildlife, however, there are quite a lot of houses and farms—and thus civilization is a lot more visible. Most tours go to or through lake Mamori. There are quite a lot of jungle things to see around the lake, but do not expect pristine nature due to all the farming going on around the lake. There is a reserve nearby called Jurara. It also seems to be inhabited and there is not much difference between the reserve and lake Mamori. A better option may be a trip to lake Juma which is a special protected area.

Time of travel There are two seasons in the Amazon basin: wet season and dry season. During the dry season it's very hot (that means 40 °C plus the humidity) and thus may be unbearable for some. As well, many channels and rivers dry out. On the other hand, fishing is much easier since all fish concentrates in the remaining water basins. During the wet season, it rains almost every day. When there is a storm, the amount of rain may be overwhelming. Thus, if traveling in wet season, be prepared to get wet and not dry out until the end of your trip. During the season the rivers and lakes rise several meters and many new channels are formed in the flooded jungle. Temperature-wise, the weather is more bearable and only the humidity will be a problem. The wet season lasts roughly January to July, with the best time to visit the jungle May to August.

Equipment If you travel during the wet season, keep your important

Buy

Besides the Star Mercado mentioned above, these are some optionsː

Feira De Artesanato, along Av. Eduardo Ribeiro between R. Saldanha Marinho and Rua 24 de Maio. Sa 08ː00-12ː00. lots of handicrafts on display, as well as food items for sale. (updated Oct 2020) 1 Manauara Shopping, Av. Mário Ypiranga, 1300 - Adrianópolis. M-Sa 10:00 - 22:00, Su 14:00 - 21:00. A bigger mall with an interesting architecture, including a glass wall that gives view to an area where the natural forest has been kept preserved. Most of the time the area can be accessed through an open section of the food court. (updated Aug 2024) 2 Sumaúma Park Shopping, Av. Noel Nutels, 1762 - Cidade Nova. A popular shopping mall, with bowling, a movie theater and a sizeable food court. (updated Aug 2024) 3 Amazonas Shopping Center, Av. Djalma Batista, 482. Another big mall, with a cinema and food court. (updated Oct 2020) 4 Manaus Plaza Shopping, Av. Djalma Batista (just a couple of doors down from the Amazonas mall). Smaller mall. (updated Oct 2020)

Eat

Local cuisine Local cuisine is rich and varied and can be found in many restaurants and stalls. You may try:

tapioquinha, a glutinous pancake made from manioc starch, usually buttered and filled with tucumã palm fruit and farmer’s cheese. tacacá, an Amazon local soup. x-caboquinho, a sandwich made with fried banana, cheese and tucumã, a regional fruit. pamonha, made from green corn and coconut milk boiled in corn husks. bolo de macaxeira, a tasty glutinous translucent cake made from manioc. sugar cane juice, a favorite drink among locals. The region is also known for its exotic fruits like:

creamy white cupuaçú. iron-rich açaí.

Budget

Around the port The area between Av. Floriano Peixoto and the port has many small restaurants that offer food for decent prices. Directly at the port at the big market (2 blocks downstream from Mercado Municipal) food stalls offer even cheaper alternatives.

1 Restaurante Shekinah II, Av. Floriano Peixoto, 49. A snack bar (updated Jan 2022)

In the city center 2 Castelinho Restaurante, R. Barroso, 317. (updated Apr 2022) 3 Kilo Center Restaurante, Rua 10 de Julho, 203. (updated Jun 2022) 4 Restaurante e Churrascaria Zitos, R. Dr. Moreira, 98. A buffet restaurant (updated Jul 2021)

In Adrianópolis

Mid-range 5 Peixaria Morongueta, Rua Jaith Chaves, 30 - Porto da Ceasa, ☏ +55 92 3615-3362. 11:00-23:00. Open-air seafood restaurant with a fantastic view of the Meeting of the Waters. Moderately priced, offering fresh local (i.e., Amazonian) fish and traditional Brazilian dishes. (updated Jun 2022) 6 Restaurante da Charufe, 26 Maceio Street (next to the Ministério da Agricultura (Rua Maceió, 26, ao lado do Ministério da Agricultura)), ☏ +55 92 9128-4628, [email protected]. Best Lebanese food in town, the famous paella and special local homely fish dishes. The famous chef opens her restaurant at home only for lunch from Mondays to Fridays. Feijoada (delicious black beans stew) on Saturdays at previous reservation. All credit cards accepted. (updated Jun 2021) 7 Canto da Peixada, Av. Ayrão, 1677 - Praça 14 de Janeiro, ☏ +55 92 3234 3021. Great local fish selection. (updated Jun 2022) 8 Miako, R. São Luíz, N80. Japanese (updated May 2022) 9 Restaurante Shin Suzuran, R. Rio Itannana, 100. Japanese (updated Jun 2022) 10 Señior Ceviche, Av. Igarapé de Manaus, 137. A home that serves delicious Peruvian dishes. (updated Jun 2022) 11 Praça do Caranguejo, R. do Caranguejo, s/n - Parque 10 de Novembro, ☏ +55 92 9928 04645. daily 16ː00-03ː00. Interesting courtyard with multiple food vendors and drinks. Open late so

Drink & nightlife

Downtown drinking near the Teatro Amazonas, lately spreading towards the refurbished Praca da Saudade. Others options in the Ponta Negra area, including the "Estrada do Turismo" -a string of nightlife spots along the road to the airport.

Bar do Armando, Largo do São Sebastião (Across the square from the Theatro Amazonas). Every evening until midnight. Lively crowd, simple setting, excellent location. Prices are a bit stiff, and for snacks they are downright ridiculous. Porao do Alemao, Estrada da Ponta Negra 1986, São Jorge. Mostly rock, excellent snacks. Entry fee. Tuesdays(!) and Fridays have hundreds and hundreds of people gather at a string of drinking shacks known as Calçadão da Suframa. Some have live music, often forró. One spot is Casa do Terror, a cobwebbed hole-in-the-wall where a shirtless Cearense in a cowboy hat spins old LPs of boleros and bregas. Crocodillo (Centro) is a dance club with decent music and reasonable drink prices. Festivals Festivals are usually held in the Sambódromo, a huge stadium on Rua Constantino Nery. Carnaval is held here as well as many other festivals, including Manaus’s popular Boi. Gay: The two main clubs are Humps and A2, both located in the city centre. Upscale dancing at the Tropical Hotel.

Sleep

Jungle accommodation, hotels and other lodgings located outside the municipality of Manaus are not included in this list. Please see the Go next section below for links to the appropriate articles.

Budget Lots of cheap hotels and pensões can be found around Av. Joaquim Nabuco. Many of these have hourly rates, and are not very pleasant, and often quite smelly. The area gets dodgy in the late evenings.

Pensão Sulista, Av. Joaquim Nabuco, No.347, Centró, ☏ +55 92 3234-5814. Traditional Hotel in historic building from 1904. Rooms with Fan and TV. Complementary breakfast, wireless Internet access and private parking. Pensao Jangada, R. dos Andradas, N 473, ☏ +55 92 3234 1517. Rooms with private bathroom, a/c and TV. Very clean. Hotel Rio Branco, R. dos Andradas, 474 - Centro, ☏ +55 92 3233 4019. A real backpacker dive. Rooms are tiny and in some cases without windows. Cheap clean rooms with Frigobar, Phone, Air condition, Safe service, breakfast and room service. Hotel Colonial, Rua Quintino Bocaiuva, 462, Centró, ☏ +55 92 3233-3216. 12 rooms for up to 6 people in historic building. All rooms with private bathroom, frigobar and cable TV, wireless Internet and complementary breakfast. R$80 for single with breakfast. Continental, Rua Coronel Sergio Pessoa 189, ☏ +55 92 3302-5574. A few blocks removed from the main strip; pleasant and economical.

Mid-range São Pedro Palace Hotel, Rua Rui Barbosa 166, Centro (Two blocks south of the Teatro), ☏ +55 92 3232-8664. Partly refurbished, clean, bright and spacious. Arguably the best cost/benefit in the neighbourhood. Hostel For Us, Rua Ramos Ferreira 922, centro (three blocks north of the square), ☏ +55 92 3342-6760. Spacious public area, kitchen facilities, wi-fi. Single R$ 70, double R$ 100, dorm bed R$ 25. Continental Hotel, ☏ +55 92 3642-6232, [email protected]. Estrada dos Japoneses, n.238, Parque 10. Rooms have Minibar, cable TV and Broadband Wifi internet service, 24-hour room service, with breakfast. Tiwa Amazonas Ecoresort, Iranduba. Clean, comfortable, air conditioned cabins over a private lagoon. Buffet-style meals included (typically traditional Brazilian dishes and local fish), as well as a program of guided tours in English and other languages.

Splurge 1 Hotel Tropical (Tropical Manaus Eco Resort), Av Coronel Teixeira, 1320, ☏ +55 92 2123-5000. At the end of Ponta Negra beach, and in a fancy neighborhood, this hotel is a landmark known by all manauara people, and is part of the tourism history of the region. Rumor has it that it has seen better days, but its 588 apar

Go next

Presidente Figueiredo – 130 km. Offers archaeological grottoes and caves, waterfalls, and native scenery. São Gabriel da Cachoeira – 900 km by boat. Home of many Indian tribes and the Pico da Neblina, the highest mountain in Brazil. Barcelos – 500 km by boat. Small town up the Rio Negro famous for white beaches, sport fishing and the highest waterfall in Brazil. Boa Vista – 750 km. Reachable by bus or plane. From Boa Vista, you can travel onwards to Guyana. Praia do Tupé – 25 km by boat. Near a white sand beach Manacapuru – 100 km. Paraiso d’Angelo chalets on black water Parintins – 440 km by boat. Boi festival in June Mauês – 280 km by boat. Guaraná festival. Jau National Park – Jungle expeditions leave Manaus for this huge park near Novo Airão (200 km). The Park is a World Heritage site and stands out in the state of Amazonas. Rainforest tours for Mamori River (90 km) and Mamirauá south of the city near the Amazon, reached by the Transamazônica road.

Jungle accommodation Areas near Manaus that offer lodging in the jungle (rather than in a town), include:

Iranduba – 40 km. Including the Ariau River, used for jungle tourism. Accessible by the bridge from Manaus, although the jungle lodges are mostly reached by boat. The Mamori River – 90 km. Accessible by the BR 319 highway, across the river from Manaus. The Juma River – 250 km by boat. Somewhat off the BR 319. The Tupana River – 190 km. Further south on the BR 319.