Managua

Understand

With a population well beyond a million, Managua is the second biggest metro area in Central America and by far the biggest city and urban center in Nicaragua. Almost every fourth Nicaraguan is a Managuan and the city still grows rapidly through people moving in, making a person "born and raised" in Managua something of a rare sight. Managua is the undisputed commercial, political, cultural and religious center of the country and many new trends originate from here before they affect the rest of the country. The Managua focus of nearly all media (print and TV) is so staggeringly large, that an address without mention of the city is almost always meant to mean Managua by default in news or advertising. Managua's location between the rival cities of León and Granada made it an ideal compromise site when the capital was relocated in the 1850s. While this decision seemed genius at the time, geology today indicates otherwise, as there is an active fault line right where downtown Managua used to be (before the 1972 earthquake knocked it down, that is). Managua's economy is based mainly on trade. The city is Nicaragua's chief trading center for coffee, cotton, and other crops. It is also an important industrial center. Its chief products for trade include beer, coffee, matches, textiles, and shoes. A very large natural lake is the city's most prominent geographic feature. Americans call it Lake Managua, but Nicaraguans call it Xolotlan (which is also the word you'll see on signs, official maps, etc.). The city has seen the rise and fall of political powers throughout Nicaragua's history and suffered major earthquakes in 1931 and 1972. Since the 1972 earthquake, residential and business areas have been built on the outskirts of Managua, giving rise to urban sprawl on a massive scale. Although it doesn't have the colonial beauty of León and Granada and travelers and expats alike love to complain about the dusty hot streets in the dry season (roughly November to mid May) and the mud and torrential canals in the rainy season (roughly May to mid November), Managua does have some things to offer for the tourist. So it might be worth to spend some time here and not head out on the first bus or plane you can get. As you can see in the climate table above, Managua does not experience big changes in temperature, but it does have a pronounced rainy and dry season. The days at the end of the dry season in May are usually uncomfortably hot, often with a lot of humidity as the clouds of the coming rainfall gather. When the rain finally does come, it can be torrential and b

Getting there

Managua is the transportation hub of the country so if you're traveling around Nicaragua you're pretty sure to pass through even if only to change buses or planes. Routes heading to the capital are often prioritized when it comes to repairs and upgrades but they also tend to be the most prone to congestion.

By plane

1 Augusto C. Sandino International Airport (MGA IATA). This airport has been renamed numerous times due to political changes and used to be named after the Las Mercedes neighborhood it sits in but now bears the name of anti-imperialist fighter Augusto C Sandino who was betrayed and murdered by Somoza in the 1930s. United Airlines from Houston, Aero Mexico from Benito Juarez international airport (MEX IATA) American Airlines from Miami Airport, Avianca from Miami and Washington Dulles (IAD IATA). Volaris fly to San José, Costa Rica. Avianca also connects several times daily from San Salvador and Copa Airlines once daily from both San Salvador and Panama City. Nicaragua's domestic airline La Costeña (not to be confused with the canned bean company of the same name) flies to destinations throughout the country as well as Tegucigalpa. La Costeña has a baggage limit of 35 pounds (15.88 kg) and despite charging what must be the lowest overbaggage fee in the business ($1.20 per pound), they consider any excess weight "standby bags" and do not guarantee their transportation even if you pay the fee. Flights from Canada are less expensive and less troublesome via San Salvador than via Miami.There are public buses from the airport and taxis of various types. Taxis that are allowed to enter the immediate airport area charge more, but just heading out to the street and flagging a regular cab can greatly decrease costs. Take care to not take "pirate taxis" as per the advice in stay safe.

By car The Pan-American Highway crosses Nicaragua. It is marked as Highway 1 throughout Nicaragua, as it is in neighboring Costa Rica or Honduras. From Tegucigalpa, Honduras to Managua is 370 kilometers and the drive takes about 7 hours. From San Jose, Costa Rica to Managua is 420 kilometers and the drive takes about 7 hours.

By bus International buses connect Managua to most Central American capitals and southern Mexico. The buses are usually air-conditioned and in a good shape, however bring time and patience as the trips can take quite some time. As flights between Central American cities are expensive and there are no railroads to speak of, buses are often the best option unless you are more pressed for time than money. Reputable companies include: transnic

Getting around

By car As can be expected of a city of two million (and growing), Managua has serious issues of traffic congestion. This is not helped by taxi drivers and motorcyclists often driving reckless next to the suicidal and the occasional home-made horse carriage (that given the levels of congestion is not any slower than a car) clogging the streets. Almost all traffic lights see street vendors during the day selling everything from water to newspapers. Keep an eye on your belongings and close the windows if possible, as theft through open windows does occur.

AVIS Rent-a-car, ☏ +505-250-3366, toll-free: +1-866-978-6539 (US & Canada), [email protected]. They have offices at the International Airport, Montoya zone, Carretera a Masaya (updated Sep 2016) Budget Rent-a-car, ☏ +505 2255-9000, [email protected]. Has 10 locations around Nicaragua. cars from $10 per day up. Driving directions in Managua are a bit odd and can be confusing until you get used to them. The major earthquakes and subsequent political upheaval have left the city without a consistent and clear street address system. Although the government has made attempts to address (no pun intended) this problem, directions are given relative to landmarks and distances. Most addresses are given based on landmarks and with the directions al lago - north, (towards the lake) arriba/abajo (east/west; literally "up" or "down") and al sur/a la montaña (to the south/to the mountains). To make things even more confusing, sometimes the former location of a landmark or some thing that no longer exists is referenced as in "de donde fue..." (i.e. "from where ... used to be"). For example, to instruct a taxi driver to drop you off at Casa Ben Linder, the directions are "en barrio Moseñor Lezcano, de donde fue el Banco Popular, 2 al lago, 2 arriba", which means, "in the Lezcano neighborhood, from where People's Bank used to be, 2 blocks towards the lake and 2 blocks east." Not even all taxi drivers know all landmarks and as GPS systems are a bit overwhelmed by this system of addresses, sometimes the best you can do is write down a route description. That said, if google maps (or whatever you're using) knows the physical location of the place you're looking for it gets the route the same way as everywhere else.

By bus Managua has an extensive public bus system, whose route density and service frequency would far surpass most US or Canadian cities, however it lags behind most European cities and overall public transit is worse than in Central American peers like Panama City or San José and there are no

See

1 Old Cathedral of Managua (Catedral de Santiago). Ruins of the city's old cathedral are a remembrance of the damage caused by a 1972 earthquake that destroyed much of central Managua. Due to structural damage caused by the earthquake, you're not allowed inside. (updated Sep 2024) 2 Plaza de la Revolucion. (updated Sep 2020) 3 Museum National Palace of the Culture (Palacio Nacional). The first floor of the old national palace is now a museum featuring several salons with exhibits highlighting the indigenous Nahuatl people and the 2,500-year-old stone sculptures they left behind. A smattering of popular arts and cultural exhibits round out the museum, which also features a beautiful courtyard garden. A library (free entry; open Monday to Friday only) is on the second floor Adult US$5 museum admission. Guided tour in Spanish and English may be included. (updated Jan 2016) 4 Monumento a Ruben Dario. Tribute to noted Nicaraguan poet who transformed 20th century Spanish literature. (updated Sep 2020) 5 Rotonda Ruben Dario. There is a lovely fountain at the Ruben Darío Rotonda that is lit up at night and visible from Tiscapa. It is also often used as a landmark for reference purposes. 6 Tiscapa Lagoon. Fresh water lagoon in the crater of an extinct volcano. As of 2016, the lake and its wooded shores, with some paths and stairs, were fenced off and were off limits to visitors. However, there's a good overview of it from the Loma de Tiscapa Park just north of the lagoon (see below).

7 Parque Loma de Tiscapa (Enter the park from the north, near Hotel Crowne Plaza). The plaza-sized hilltop viewing platform on the northern lip of the crater of the Laguna de Tiscapa, known as Loma de Tiscapa, used to be the site of the presidential palace and the headquarters of the National Guard in the Somoza era (until they were destroyed in the earthquake of 1972); political prisoners were tortured in a prison close by. This is where you'll also find the landmark silhouette of Augusto C Sandino (with a little American tanquette next to it), as well as military memorials. The hill offers the best views in town, both to the downtown and Lake Managua to the north, and to the Carretera a Masaya area to the south. The Nicaraguan Army headquarters are located on the hill's northern slope, and are definitely not open to the public, though pedestrians are allowed on the street straight north from the hill, which is lined with large interpretive signs in Spanish about the military history of Nicaragua (from the Sandinista point of view, of course). C$1 (for foreigners on foot); vehic

Do

Gambling - There are many casinos, large and small throughout Managua. Star City has a number of locations. If you like to play poker, go to the Pharo's casino on Carretera Masaya. It has hold'em poker tournaments at night (when there's enough interest); $200 buy-in no limit table can be found a lot of nights, $50 tournaments. The nicest casino in Managua by far is Palms Casino just off of Carretera Masaya. Beware that casinos are said by police and regional security analysts to play a significant role in the regional drug trade and money laundering networks. This is unlikely to impact your personal safety at a casino, but does contribute to Nicaragua's security problems. Play billiards - There are at least three good pool places if you're in a group, Pool8, and the two Time Off locations. All are downtown. Time Off has excellent snacks. Catch a movie - You can catch good Latin American movies some Wednesdays at 19:00 at the theatre near Art Cafe (a bar) near the Parque de las Palmas. The Art Cafe is near Hotel Beneficial Las Palmas and is within walking distance to the hotel. 1 Dennis Martinez National Stadium (Estadio Nacional Dennis Martinez), Avenida 11A SO (near the Tiscapa lagoon). While you might be surprised to hear it, baseball is as much a national pastime in Nicaragua as it is in the US, maybe even more so. The national stadium (named for Major League pitcher Dennis Martinez) has space for 15,000 people, making it bigger than the national soccer stadium. The stadium opened in 2017. Besides baseball games of the national team it is mostly used for home games of the "Indios del Boér", Managua's home team and the serial champion of the Nicaraguan league. Parking available. Game tickets US$3-30. (updated Oct 2018) 2 Rubén Darío National Theatre. (updated Nov 2018) 3 Pharaoh's Casino. (updated Nov 2018) 4 Parque Luis Alfonso Velásquez Flores. 09:00-22:00 daily. Park featuring rides, artificial lake with duck peddle boats, and sports venues. $10. (updated Sep 2020) 5 Parque Acuático. 09:00-21:00 daily. Water park next to Lake Xolotlan 30 cords. (updated Sep 2020)

Buy

If you do not have the time to go to Masaya for handicrafts, go to the Mercado Huembes where you will find everything from souvenirs to hammocks, and paintings. Ask anyone how to get there.

Galería Codice, Colonial Los Robles, ☏ +505 2267 2635. Excellent place to buy art (including paintings) and top-quality souvenirs/artesania from all over Nicaragua. As might be expected, though, items are pricey here. 1 Mercado Oriental, Calle 15 de Setiembre. A huge market where almost everything is on sale. However it has a rather dangerous reputation. Pick-pocketing, grab-and-run theft are commonplace and there have even been instances of armed robberies. Overall Mercado Oriental can be a fascinating destination but is generally not recommended for the average tourist. If you still want to go, go with someone who knows the place and whom you know personally and trust. It should go without saying that you should never take any valuables (including cell-phones and cameras), that you can't risk losing. 2 Metrocentro. The most luxurious mall in town right next to rotonda Ruben Dario on the opposite side of the new cathedral. Has a decent food court and a big selection of nearly everything as well as a multiplex cinema 3 Mercado Huembes. One of the major markets of Managua, offering a wide variety of goods ranging from clothes to pineapple and from beans to tooth-paste judging from the prices for basic foodstocks frequently printed in the main newspapers La Prensa and El Nuevo Diario it is maybe slightly more expensive than the Mercado Oriental in terms of price, but to a traveller the difference is negligible. 4 Mercado Mayoreo. although it isn't as large as Huembes or Oriental the selection is almost as wide. It serves as a terminus of several local bus routes as well as the bus station for buses to northern cities like Estlí and more distant destinations like San Carlos (Nicaragua), Rama and the las Minas towns.

Eat

1 Los Ranchos. A steak house that is so good, it spawned a chain in South Florida. Has been popular with locals for lunch and dinner since the days of Somoza. During that time, the politicians on opposite sides of the conflict would run into each other here on a regular basis. Service is impeccable. They serve a churrasco that is hard to beat for flavor and tenderness. Order it with a gin Martini for appetizer. Located about 3 blocks north of estatua de Montoya. (updated Sep 2020) 2 La Plancha. Steak house. Their signature plate is the name of the restaurant: La Plancha. Comes with mashed potatoes and plantains on a hot grill. (updated Sep 2020) 3 Le Café de Paris. French restaurant. Taken care personally by its proprietor and chef, Jeaninne. Very good wines. Ask for its famous foie gras, green salad and pepper steak. In Los Robles. (updated Sep 2020) 4 Asados El Gueguense. great local cuisine. Large selection of local meat dishes. (updated Sep 2020) 5 La Cocina de Doña Haydée. a good taste of local Nicaraguan cuisine. 3 locations - Original off the Carretera Masaya km 4.5 (not far from Metrocentro), another near the Rotonda Bello Horizonte and the last in the food court at Metrocentro. (updated Sep 2020) 6 El Rincon Salvadoreno. fantastic Salvadorian pupusas and fruit juices in a pleasant outdoor area (updated Sep 2020) A good breakfast is Leche Agria - a homemade yogurt-like drink. Look for signs advertising it in store fronts and pulperias. Put a little salt on it and eat it with tortilla.

Casa del Cafe for good coffee and breakfast. Four locations, one in Los Robles, one on the second floor of Metrocentro, one in Galerias Santo Domingo and one after the security check at Augusto C. Sandino International Airport. Sushi Itto, in case you have a craving. Three locations, one in Carretera Masaya (in Plaza Familiar), one in Galerias Santo Domingo, and one in Plaza Caracol. La Cueva del Buzo - great seafood freshly caught. Must go if you can afford it.

Drink & nightlife

Toro Huaco, in the Zona Rosa across from the Picoteo. Outdoor restaurant bar that is comfortable with large groups. Sit under the stars on clear nights. Open mike night on Thursdays for joke-telling is good night to get to know the Nicaraguan sense of humor. Owner speaks English fluently. Music Lounge, 2 blocks north of the Texaco in Altamira. Outdoor/indoor music bar that plays a range of music. Nice lighting and atmosphere. Show up with friends. El Caramanchel, Del Hospital Militar, 3 cuadras al Norte. cultural bar with a good mix of foreigners and Nicas. HipaHipa. Exclusive Club on Carretera Masaya. Entrance can be C$150, parties W F Sa. Moods, in Galeria Santo Domingo located on Carretera Masaya. Fanciest and Hippest disco in Managua. Entrance can be C$150-300, parties W-Sa. Broder, in Zona Rosa. Disco with entry fee up to C$150, parties Th-Sa. Arribas, in Zona Rosa on top of Broder. A good atmosphere, sometimes live music. Art Cafe. Art Cafe is a very nice place for listening to live alternative music and have a tranquil evening. It has a colorful bohemian looks and art on their walls and in the vibe of the place and the people that frequent it in general. Go there by taxi, ask for "Art Cafe, en frente del Parque las Palmas" There are tons of bars in the area south of the big BAC building downtown, find an abandoned place called Lacmiel and head east to find this zone. Mozara, C$180 entrance fee, open bar till 14:00 Saturdays There are also a few bars and restaurants around Zona Hippos. Woody's has good wings, Pirata's is a popular local restaurant/bar and Tercer Ojo is a more upscale resto-lounge with fusion cuisine. This area is west of the traffic light at Hilton Princess and La Union supermarket. The Zona Rosa is an area with bars and restaurants that has sprung up in what was once a mostly residential area. It is located south of the BAC building. Highlights include Pharaoh's casino, Casa del Cafe, bars east of Lacmiel, la Casa del Baho restaurant, and Hipa Hipa bar. There are also bars and restaurants in the new "Zona Viva" in Galerias Santo Domingo

Sleep

Budget 1 Casa De Huespedes Santos. is the most renowned budget place in town—or at least the cheapest. This place might be handy for backpackers. Don't expect too much from the DIY plumbing and electrical wiring, but you will get your own bathroom/shower. US$10 per person. (updated Sep 2024) 2 Casa de Huéspedes Bolonia. Homestay with internet access and private bathrooms. (updated Sep 2020) 3 La Bicicleta Hostal, ☏ +505 8324 3340. Free breakfast, LGBT and pet friendly, wifi and a/c, hammocks, kitchen, bar, gazebo. Organized tours. $15. (updated Sep 2020) 4 Managua Backpackers Inn, Colonial Los Robles, 3era etapa, Casa #55, ☏ +505 2267-0006, +505 8414-4114 (mobile). Well-traficked backpacker hostel. Airport transfers take 30 minutes, and a shuttle service is available for guests. Dormitory or private rooms, shared kitchen, pool, hot showers, air conditioning in some rooms, free wireless internet. Getting a bit of a reputation for its owner's crankiness, but still popular. Dorms from US$16/night. (updated Sep 2024) Hotel Mozonte. Seems to be the about the best-reputation lower-end conventional lodging as of 2024, but don't expect too much. Has a pool. Seems to have a shared dorm as listed on HostelWorld, though it doesn't appear on the hotel's own website. US$17.50 for dorm bed; about $30 and up for private rooms. (updated Sep 2024) Airbnb Oli&Rey, ☏ +505 86149923. The cheapest option bookable online in 2024, and probably the best value in its price range. Rooms are very hot 24 hours, but otherwise quite good, and good fans are provided. Rooms are listed on Airbnb as "hosted by Reyna", or contact directly by Whatsapp. US$11 for one person. (updated Sep 2024)

Mid-range 5 Hotel Yolaina, From semaforos de enitel Villa Fontana 200 meters west, 50 meters north, 50 meters east, ☏ +505 22771337. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 11:00. 24 rooms, each equipped with air conditioning, hot water, wireless Internet, and cable TV. Hotel has 24-hour security, a pool and breakfast is included. Manager speaks English. Airport pickup/dropoff is available. Discounted rates for long-term stays. US$35-50/night. 6 La Posada del Arcangel, ☏ +505 2254 5212. Small hotel with complimentary breakfast, restaurant, internet access, and a/c. Pet-friendly. $36. (updated Sep 2020) 7 Hotel Europa. Has clean, comfortable rooms for about US$30/night. It is owned by a Spanish guy. (updated Sep 2020) 8 Hotel Mansión Teodolinda (near Hospital Militar (three streets north and two streets west)). Has nice rooms with air conditioning, cable TV, a pool and a restaurant. It was the well-known ho

Go next

León - The second largest city in the country, León is the intellectual center of Nicaragua, with the oldest university, largest cathedral and excellent museums. At nearby Cerro Negro, you can experience the thrill of volcano boarding in a moonlike landscape. Granada - Located at the foot of the impressive volcano Mombacho, Granada is the oldest colonial city on the American continent, with beautiful colorful and picturesque buildings and churches. It is situated on Lake Nicaragua, the second largest lake in Latin America, where you can tour of the Granada Isletas archipelago with many tropical birds and monkeys. Masaya - The third largest city in Nicaragua. Masaya is the center for indigenous crafts, and it is famous for its artisan market. Just outside the city you will find Volcán Masaya, featuring a smoking, active volcano, where you can watch the crater fumes rise to the sky. Pueblos Blancos - A cluster of indigenous villages in the mountains above Masaya, each with its own artisan specialty. Do not miss San Juan de Oriente, with its famous pottery workshops. La Laguna de Apoyo - An amazing beautiful lagoon that is over 3 km wide at an elevation of 400 meters. The water is crystal clear beneath an impressive 200-m-tall jungle covered volcanic rim. Swimming, sailing, kayaking and scuba diving is recommended. Ometepe - In the center of Lake Nicaragua (19th largest in the world), to grand volcanoes raises impressively over the water, on the island of Ometepe. A beautiful and wonderful place for ecoturism, hiking, horseabck riding, kayaking and swimming, either in the lake or in the crater lake at the top of the Maderas volcano. Caribbean Coast - Daily flights are available to Nicaragua's Atlantic coastline, where tropical reefs and small offshore islands offer a very different view of the country. Highlights are the English speaking city Bluefields, the pristine Pearl Lagoon and the two Corn Islands. Pacific Beaches - For swimming or some of the best surfing on the American continent, head to one of many beaches on the Pacific Coast. The most popular destination is San Juan del Sur, which is surrounded by many unpopulated beaches with world class surfing waves, such as Popoyo, Madera, Majagual and Marsella. Closest to Managua are the beach towns of Masachapa, Pochomil, Pochomil Viejo and Montelimar, the latter being the home of the Montelimar Beach Resort. Further north you find the popular beaches of Las Peñitas and Poneloya, and the more secluded off-the-beaten-track beaches of Aposentillo, Juiqilillo, Padre Ramos and Mechapa. Estelí and the Norther