Magdalen Islands

Understand

The Magdalen Islands or Îles-de-la-Madeleine are a windswept chain of islands connected by sand dunes and beautiful cold water beaches. Lagoons, caps, green valleys, red cliffs and brightly coloured houses form the panorama of this archipelago in the heart of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Havre-Aubert, on the island of the same name, is a member of "Les plus beaux villages du Québec". All of the dozen islands of the archipelago are connected to each other by land with the exception of l'île d'Entrée which can be reached by local ferry. The population of the archipelago is about 12,600. Although part of Quebec, Acadian culture is very much alive in the Magdalen Islands ("mon île, mon pays"). The islanders are known for having retained their unique accent and for their warm hospitality. There is one small town, Cap-aux-Meules, where most services are located; the rest of this isolated group of islands is rural, with a few tiny villages. Accommodation is often in rented cabins. Bed and breakfasts are also available and often cheaper for 2 persons. Camping is possible; however, exposure to wind (given the lack of trees and proximity to the ocean) can make this unpleasant. Prices for excursions and various tourist activities are variable but generally expensive, something to consider for the budget traveller. During the high tourist season (July-August) lodging can be expensive and booked out. Early September would be a wonderful time to visit this region. The Îles-de-la-Madeleine use the Atlantic time zone (UTC-4 in winter), an hour ahead of the rest of Québec but the same time zone as the three Maritime provinces. If you have only one full day (and a car) you can easily drive from Cap-aux-Meules to each end of the islands and back, but it would be rushed, and wouldn't leave you much time for exploring the dunes or walking on the beaches. Two days will give you a much better experience. With a third day, you could take the ferry to Île d'Entrée to roam its trails, or lie o

Getting there

Îles-de-la-Madeleine is not the easiest place to visit, but there are a few options:

Ferry from Souris, PEI, via CTMA, reservation required Weekly boat from Montréal, Québec and Chandler, Québec, via CTMA, reservation required Flights from Québec City, Montreal, and other cities (Air Canada Express)

By plane

Airport 1 Îles-de-la-Madeleine Airport (YGR IATA), on l'île du Havre aux Maisons. The only airport on the archipelago. Classed as a port of entry by Canada Border Services. Direct flights available from Quebec City (1.75-2 hours).

Airlines Air Canada, ☏ +1-514-393-3333, toll-free: +1-888-247-2262. Canada's largest airline with hubs in Vancouver, Calgary, Toronto, and Montreal. It operates across Canada and services international destinations. (updated Apr 2022) Pascan Aviation, ☏ +1-450-443-0500, toll-free: +1-888-313-8777, [email protected]. A regional airline operating in Quebec and Labrador. (updated Apr 2022) PAL Airlines, toll-free: +1-800-563-2800, [email protected]. One of the largest regional airlines operating in Quebec and Atlantic Canada. (updated Apr 2022)

By boat

CTMA, ☏ +1 418-986-3278, toll-free: +1-888-986-3278. A cruise on the Madeleine II completes the five-hour crossing between Souris, PEI, and Cap-aux-Meules in the Îles-de-la-Madeleine daily. The ship offers services including a cafétéria, dining room, cinema, a kindergarden, cabins and a show. 3-11 crossings a week, depending on the season. Arrive at least one hour before departure. High season rates (Jun 25-Sep 14): car $97, trailer/RV $8/foot, motorcycle $35, adult passenger $52, senior $42, child 13 and under $26. Low season rates are 30-40% lower. Reserve and pay a deposit online, then pay the balance on board during the trip. (updated May 2017) East Connection, ☏ +1 902-892-6760. late Jun to mid-Oct, off-season by reservation. Passenger shuttle between Charlottetown and the Îles-de-la-Madeleine ferry that leaves from Souris, PEI. $65/person.

By bus

Getting around

While each island is quite small, the distances between them along the connecting dunes are greater and these areas are isolated. Cycling is possible, scooters can be rented, as can automobiles. Bus tours are available during the summer, and taxis are quite expensive. There is no separate bike trail; the one "Route Verte" is a paved shoulder along most of the main highway, Route 199. Gasoline is expensive: about 18¢/litre more than in PEI (May 2017), so you may want to fill up before you leave Souris.

Agence de location et services des Îles, 357 chemin Principal, Cap-aux-Meules, ☏ +1 418-986-6565, toll-free: +1-888-818-4537, fax: +1 418-986-2465. M-F 08:30-17:00 year-round, open daily in high season. Motorcycle rental, hire cars (Hertz Îles-de-la-Madeleine), instruction (École de Conduite des Îles) and roadside assistance (Service Routier Léon Lapierre). Taxi Madeli, 239 Ch de la Pointe-Basse, Havre-aux-Maisons, ☏ +1 418-986-2555. Local taxi, enquire at bike shop for taxi delivery of rental bicycles (Veli-Vélo, Le Pédalier). Régîm public transport (Régie intermunicipale de transport Gaspésie – Îles-de-la-Madeleine), ☏ +1 418-986-6050, toll-free: +1 877 521-0841. M-F only. Buses have bike rack (no additional costs). Three routes connect the main villages of the islands, but each route may be served only once per day in each direction. Check the schedule, and as the vehicle approaches, gesture with your hand and make sure to get the driver's attention. $4/boarding (exact change) or 1 ticket. Tickets are sold in books of 10 tickets ($30) at the Caisses Desjardins des Îles. (updated May 2017)

See

Site historique de La Grave (La Grave historic site), La Grave, Havre-Aubert. The first community on the island began as a fisheries village where the fish was dried, salted and packed. It was largely deserted by the 1960s and many buildings were abandoned as economic activity shifted to Cap-aux-Meules. Preservation efforts began in the 1980s. The historic district was restored to house a collection of artisans, boutiques and a marina. The former general store is now the Café de la Grave. 1 Musée de la Mer (Museum of the Sea), 1023 chemin de la Grâve, Havre-Aubert, ☏ +1 418-937-5711. Permanent exhibition on the « Laboureurs du Golfe », temporary exhibits on different themes, works of local artists, genealogical documentation. $8/person or $20/family.

Do

The Îles-de-la-Madeleine may be explored by bicycle, on horseback or on foot; one may follow the coast by canoe, zodiac boat or kayak. Strong winds and shallow bays make a fine coastline of long, sandy beaches for windsurfing.

Beaches: Several long sand dune beaches connect the islands; swim. sunbathe, walk and explore. Water temperature reaches 18°C (64°F) by mid-August. Birdwatching: Excursions are available, for example by boat to nearby Ile Brion. Windsurfing, kitesurfing equipment rental and lessons are available. Sea kayaking: Explore coastal cliffs, bays, and tunnels. Aerosport, Istorlet and Parc du G