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Lusaka

Zambia · Africa

Lusaka, Zambia
Lusaka, Zambia. Photo via Wikimedia Commons.

About Lusaka

Lusaka ( loo-SAH-kə) is the capital and largest city of Zambia. It is one of the fastest-developing cities in southern Africa. Lusaka is in the southern part of the central plateau at an elevation of about 1,279 metres (4,196 ft). As of 2019, the city's population was about 3.3 million, while the urban population is estimated at 2.5 million in 2018. Lusaka is the centre of both commerce and government in Zambia and connects to the country's four main highways heading north, south, east, and west. English is the official language of the city administration, while Bemba, Tonga and Chichewa are the commonly spoken street languages.

The earliest evidence of settlement in the area dates to the 6th century AD, with the first known settlement in the 11th century. It was then home to the Lenje and Soli peoples from the 17th or 18th century. The founding of the modern city occurred in 1905 when it lay in the British protectorate of Northern Rhodesia, which was controlled by the British South African Company (BSAC). The BSAC built a railway linking their mines in the Copperbelt to Cape Town and Lusaka was designated as a water stop on that line, named after a local Lenje chief called Lusaaka. White Afrikaner farmers then settled in the area and expanded Lusaka into a regional trading centre, taking over its administration. In 1929, five years after taking over control of Northern Rhodesia from the BSAC, the British colonial administration decided to move its capital from Livingstone to a more central location, and Lusaka was chosen. Town planners including Stanley Adshead worked on the project, and the city was built out over the subsequent decades.

Lusaka lost some of its status to Salisbury (now Harare in Zimbabwe) when the latter became the capital of the merged Federation of Rhodesia and Nyasaland in 1953, but regained it when it was named the capital of newly independent Zambia in 1964. A large-scale building programme in the city followed, including government buildings, the University of Zambia and a new airport. Wealthy suburbs in Lusaka include Woodlands, Ibex Hill and Rhodes Park. Large-scale migration of people from other areas of Zambia occurred both before and after independence, and a lack of sufficient formal housing led to the emergence of numerous unplanned shanty towns on the city's western and southern fringes.

Lusaka travel guide

Getting there

By plane 1 Kenneth Kaunda International Airport (Lusaka International Airport LUN IATA) (well-signposted 14 km (8.7 mi) km from the City centre, off the Great East Road). If you walk out of the airport terminal cross the car park to the petrol station you can pay from only K100 for a ride in to Lusaka city center. If you take a taxi outside the terminal you pay a lot more. Lusaka is reasonably well-served by flights from Johannesburg, Dubai, Nairobi, Addis Ababa, Istanbul, Emirates connects Lusaka with Dubai. Turkish Airlines connects Lusaka with Istanbul. South African Airways fly to Lusaka from Johannesburg with multiple flights per day. Kenya Airways flies from Nairobi. and Ethiopian Airlines from Addis Ababa. (In Johannesburg the airlines have no control over baggage in transit and the airport's baggage concessionnaire is exempt from responsibility by contract, so lost and especially pilfered baggage can be an issue.) Various other African airlines also serve Lusaka. All Zambian airlines have been refused permission to operate services to the EU since 2009. This decision, by the EU Air Safety Committee, followed an International Civil Aviation Organisation (ICAO) audit of Zambia, which discovered significant shortcomings in the ability of the Zambian civil aviation authorities to ensure the safe operation of airlines licensed by them. The UK's Foreign and Commonwealth Office recommends against flying with any Zambian-based airline if a reasonable alternative exists.[1] International airlines that have flights to Lusaka include:

Proflight Zambia flies from Cape Town, Durban, Johannesburg & Lilongwe, as well as domestic destinations Malawi Airlines flies from Lilongwe. Kenya Airways flies from Nairobi & Harare South African Airways flies from Johannesburg. Ethiopian Airlines flies from Addis Ababa. Emirates flies from Dubai. RwandAir flies from Kigali and Johannesburg. Airlink Airlines flies from Johannesburg. Turkish Airlines flies from Istanbul. Qatar airways is looking to fly three times a week from Doha. Domestic flights: there are two airlines, Mahogany Air and Proflight Zambia. and for charters Ngwazi Air Charters.

By train There are two trains per week to Lusaka from Livingstone. The Zambezi offers business class and sleeper compartments and is recommended for tourists. The other train is the Kafue, heavily subsidized by the government and therefore dirt-cheap but lacking most amenities. There are no differences in travel time between the two trains. Both trains connect with cities north such as Ndola and Kitwe, which are in the Coppe

Getting around

Minibuses are ubiquitous, cheap, and, if already full, fast. Single rides generally cost (about US$0.50). Most routes head to/from the 4 major bus stations in the city centre (referred to collectively as "town"), although there are a small number of alternative routes or short-cut routes, especially during the rush hours. A rider can get just about anywhere in the city with one connection in town. Going in to town is quite straightforward. Going away from town it's best to ask the driver where he's going. Routes and destinations are not posted on the vehicles themselves, but if a bus is taking on passengers the conductor will likely be shouting the destination through the window. Minibuses do run into the evenings, but become decreasingly frequent at the evening wears on. For the uninitiated, then, a taxi might be a better option, at least initially. Taxis come in two colours - sky blue, and a light grey, and are usually Toyota Corollas. There are no meters in Zambia's taxis, so prices are somewhat negotiable but always on the high side for Africa. Be sure to set a price before getting in the cab, US$2 for a short ride is a fair tourist price. (Ask at a hotel lobby how much your trip should cost. If the cab driver states a higher price, mention that you're happy to ride a mini-bus. Watch the price drop. ) Take down a taxi driver's mobile number, most will be happy to do an all day deal, wait for you while you explore, pick you up early or late and take you to and from the airport. Ride-hailing app Yango is available. Walking is an option as distances are not that large, and there are a fair number of street names to help orient yourself. However walking at night does have its hazards - manhole covers are not Lusaka's strong point and there are many uncovered drains that could swallow you whole, hence a torch is a good idea - and drivers seem allergic to moving over for pedestrians walking on the road - so best to stick to the dirt paths at the side of the roads (these are more common than pavements or sidewalks).

Wakmaf Bus Services (Max Katyamba), ☏ +260 977-417331, [email protected]. Maxwell Katyamba has worked for World Vision for 13 years and has now decided to start his own business. Wakmaf Bus Services can accommodate from 1-7 people or up to 29 people for larger groups.

See

1 Anglican Cathedral of the Holy Cross, 3 Chikwa Road (on the corner of Church Road and Independence Avenue), ☏ +260 211250484. It is an elegant concrete building with tall stained glass windows. Properly titled the Cathedral of the Holy Cross, it opened for worship on 14 September 1962. (updated Aug 2020) 2 Henry Tayali Gallery, Lion Lane Street. M-Sa 08:00-17:00, closed Su. In the city showgrounds; holds exhibitions of local art. Unique and professional pieces are available and the staff will be happy to pack your work for safe travel. (updated Aug 2020) 3 Munda Wanga Environmental Park, ☏ +260 968868901. daily 08:00-17:00. Wildlife Park and Sanctuary, Botanical Gardens, Recreational Village and Environmental Education Centre. Started in 1956 as private garden and has grown to be Zambia's premier environmental education facility. With over 50,000 visitors a year Munda Wanga reaches out to the future of Zambia to learn about their environment and natural heritage. The park has rescued animals, including a baby elephant and baboons, and released them back to the wild. However, there are still plenty of animals that find their way in to the sanctuary after being found in the illegal pet-trade. The Botanical Gardens are a place to relax and leave the hustle and bustle of the city behind you. The Terrace Bar and Restaurant has nice food and cold drinks available. K30. (updated Aug 2020) 4 Lilayi Lodge, Lilayi Road, ☏ +260 971002010. A wildlife ranch. Take a game drive and see animals as close to the wild as they can be in the city. Lilayi lodge has an excellent restaurant and hosts Sunday buffets which can be eaten while lounging in around the pool. (updated Aug 2020) 5 Lusaka National Museum, Independence Ave (next to the new Government Complex), ☏ +260 975621110. daily 09:00-16:30. A classic dusty, underfunded African museum that is worth a visit if you are at a loose end. An amusingly stark 'collection' of modern art on the ground floor, coupled with a more engaging exhibition upstairs covering Zambia's colonial history, village life, and witchcraft. Lots of old newspaper cuttings giving an interesting glimpse in to the prejudiced views of British Colonial Officers and their attitudes towards the 'natives'. Give yourself at least 1 hour, but keep your expectations low. K131. 6 Freedom Statue. Out in front of the Lusaka National Museum. The statue depicts a man breaking free of chains and is a reminder of Zambia's fight for freedom. (updated Aug 2020) 7 Kabwata Cultural Village, Burma Road, ☏ +260 979291049. daily 08:00-18:00. Reconstructed Zambian villa

Do

Explore the city with its diverse suburbs and informal settlements. Take a map and explore the city's markets, its second class shopping area and many other nooks. The only precautions recommended would be to leave your valuables at your hotel and take only the cash needed for the day as would apply in any major city. Parray's Game Ranch is 21 km from the town centre. Available are game drives, swimming and a playground. There you can see Zebra, Kudu and other herbivores Chaminuka Lodge Located near the airport, amazing lodge and facilities. The privately owned park is home to a range of antelopes, a family of elephants, giraffes, zebras, lions and hyenas. [2]

Buy

FNB, Ecobank, Stanbic Bank, and Access Bank-Atlasmara Bank have 24-hour Visa and Mastercard ATMs around Lusaka.

1 Soweto Market, Lumumba Road, ☏ +260 976282364. daily 06:30-17:30. the front is a modern covered market. Behind it lies a massive market selling everything from beans to used clothes, when you want to take in all the sights and smells, among elements as varying as traditional medicines, bicycle repair men and engine spare parts. (Ensure you hold onto your handbag and any other items) (updated Aug 2020) 2 Manda Hill, 19255 Manda Hill Rd, ☏ +260 211255549. daily 08:00-19:00. Lusaka's first mall, opened in 2000. Game Hypermarket, which is owned by Walmart USA, is the anchor, and the mall also features some high-end boutiques, a bookshop, a Subway restaurant, some memorabilia shops, and a wide range of shops: Shoprite supermarket, clothes, jewellery, books, interior design, electronics, and food places with outside seating. (updated Aug 2020) 3 Arcades, ☏ +260 973324885. daily 08:00-19:00. The capital's second mall, featuring a relatively cheap Spar supermarket, where you can find your Western food goods. There are also cinemas (Ster-Kinokor) with air-con and a lot of space when watching a movie. A ticket is around K34 (half that price on weekdays). Right next to the cinema there is a bowling alley with a pretty good standard, and they also do disco-bowling in the late evening. There is a Sunday market on every Sunday (handicraft, clothes, plants) across parts of the parking lots. (updated Aug 2020) Dutch Reformed Church Market. Held on the last Saturday of each month and has been going for several years. There you can buy an assortment of curios, books, food and art. A special feature is the large number of goods available from other countries such as Congo and Zimbabwe. You can have a light Indian or Chinese meal while children have their faces painted. Look for stand selling products made from recycled glass bottles and handicrafts made by people with disabilities. Levy 1, Church Rd. Yet more South African shops for you to browse, including a huge Pick'n'Pay, and a cinema. Lusaka City Market is probably the nicest market in town if you are looking for an 'African' market experience - its just east of the main downtown area. The 'Town Centre' market is pretty grim and has lots of traffic clogging up the streets. MP3 CDs. Lusaka, strategically located next to several countries with a strong musical heritage (Congo, Zimbabwe) is a great place for adding to your African music collection. In the indoor bit of Lusaka City Market there are several

Eat

Whilst not a gourmet destination there is some good eating to be had in Lusaka. The gradual shopping mall-isation of the city sadly means that uninspiring South African chain restaurants are multiplying - but there is still a good selection of independent places scattered around. Lusaka seems to specialise in Indian cuisine. Chindo Road is the closest thing that Lusaka has to a restaurant strip.

South Asian Dil offers some of the best Indian food anywhere and is reasonably priced (though not dirt-cheap). It's in the Ibex Hill area of town, about 15 minutes drive from the city centre, provided there's no traffic. Well worth the drive but a taxi fare each way will cost more than a meal.

East Asian Dong Fang Good local Chinese fare in Long Acres, near Ndeke Hotel. 1 Arirang Korean Restaurant, H8VF+RWV. 10am-11pm. A place to get Korean BBQ and other Korean classics, go for their beef dishes especially as you get the good quality Zambian beef in Korean style. Korean owners who also have a shop next to the restaurant (although pretty expensive) with different imported food. (updated Jul 2022) Upmarket

Savanna at the Intercontinental Hotel. Does standard international hotel food in a nice setting by the pool. Both a-la carte and all you can eat buffet 365 days a year. Expect to pay around K100,000 for a meal. Taj Pamodzi This upmarket hotel has 2 restaurants for evening meals - one offering buffets that vary according to the day and another a grill bar. Indian ownership reflected in the food served. Check out crocodile kebabs on the grill or some of the excellent vegetarian options. Expect to pay $15 or more for a meal. Portico's Lusaka's newest hot spot serving homemade Italian dishes. Located at Showgrounds by the polo ground. Groovy decor and new, expanded outdoor area. Marlin Restaurant, ☏ +260 211 252 206. The Lusaka Club, Los Angeles Boulevard, Longacres. Long a staple of the Lusaka dining scene Marlin is notorious for its pepper steak. Other meats and some Chinese on the menu also. The restaurant has a definite 1970s feel, but is always pretty busy (reservations needed for busy times), and the beef is pretty good (porterhouse a better option than the fillet). Prices exclude 27% in VAT and service. The wine list is exclusively Nederburg. Mains from K70,000.

Other 2 Melsim Lodge Ethiopian Restaurant, Alick Nkhata Rd (north of the old airport, behind Flamingo Supermarket). Run by an Ethiopian lady the lodge's restaurant offers some pretty authentic Ethiopian cuisine - better to eat in the bar under the thatch rather than in the wedding hall-e

Drink & nightlife

Lusaka has many Western-styled bars (e.g., Brown's, mainly used by tourists, and ex-pats). Zambians love to drink; there are, therefore, a number of bars frequented by locals, as well. Unfortunately, these change often. Rhapsody's open late

Chez Ntemba* has several branches, plays Rumba and African rhythms until the last person leaves Majestic Casino has an excellent bar, casino complete with blackjack and roulette tables and slot machines Johnny's Chinese is centrally located The Polo Grill has outdoor seating overlooking the Lusaka Polo Club also has a small casino Northmead Shopping Centre has an array of clubs and bars including some open 24 hours a day the infamous alpha bar should be tested by all travellers. The Cha Bar, 161 Mulobwa Close, Fairview. 12:00 - 24:00. This busy, fun and friendly bar is in Lusaka Backpackers, (which used to be called ChaChaCha Backpackers). It's the most easy going place in the centre of the city, and even has great food. Its used by locals and tourists alike and is the place to be if you want to meet people in a place where you don't need to dress up first. You'll get local businessmen in suits for their after work beer and tourists getting out of the pool. There's even an informal taxi rank outside to get you home when you've finished your evening on the local Mosi beer. (updated Mar 2023)

Sleep

Budget, backpacker and camping Rooms under K1000, Dorm beds Under K250, and camping from K150 pp a night.

Flintstones Backpackers, Plot 9965 Makata close (off Makish road Fairview), ☏ +260 211-221060. Camping, 4-bed dorm, or private room. US$5/7/15/22. (updated Jun 2023) Lusaka Backpackers It is off Bwimjimfumo Road, two-thirds of the way down Mulombwa Close on the right-hand side. dorm beds, private rooms. This place used to be called Chachacha backpackers. Dorm bed US$10, room $20/24/27. Use caution if booking safaris through them and try to get your itinerary in writing so there is no confusion. Pioneer Camp (14 km from the Lusaka airport.), ☏ +260 966-432700. Camping with own tent. US$12 per person. (updated Jun 2023) 1 Natwange Backpackers, 20 Kariba, Kalundu (northeast of city centre, off Great East Rd, 5 min walk from East Park Mall), ☏ +260 963 102 324. This one is pretty hip, over by the Arcades Mall and Radisson Blu and has a pool, spa, billiards, and breakfast, even though it's just a hostel. Dorm: US$10, private single w/ bathroom: US$45. (updated Jun 2023) Fish Eagle Backpackers, 159 Mwambula Road Jesmondine Lusaka, ☏ +260 977856574, [email protected]. 8-bed dorm, free wifi, cable TV, swimming pool, security Lockers, 24-hour reception. dorm $8 room from $15. (updated Jun 2023) Magodi Lodge (over the street from Novare Great North mall). Single or double room with own bathroom. from K250. (updated Aug 2023)

Mid-range There are a number of mid-range accommodation options, as well. Of particular note are the 'executive lodge' type places - these are aimed at Zambian businessmen and civil servants on their travels and usually comprise a bedroom, breakfast, a pleasant bar and off-street parking - and are usually modern and clean and less than half the price of the top-end hotels.

The Abundant Life is an impeccably clean hostel run by a local church. No alcohol allowed on the premises. Staff is extremely friendly. They offer en suite rooms and genuine suites, too, for about US$30. Abundant Life is also a church, and they offer worship services on-site. Don't be surprised (or afraid) if you wake to the sound of the congregation speaking in tongues!

Splurge 2 Hilton Garden Inn Lusaka Society Business Park, Cairo Road Lusaka ZM, ☏ +260 211324777. It must be one of Lusaka's tallest (and most aesthetic looking) skyscrapers. It has all the amenities of a Hilton Garden property (pool, gym, restaurant, wifi, etc.) and is located downtown. (updated Aug 2020) 3 Fallsway Suites, off Alick Nkhata rd. Massmedia, ☏ +260 974599477.

Go next

Of course, there are game parks (like South Luangwa National Park), scattered throughout Zambia, and many Lusakans visit them on the weekends. Heading to Livingstone for a few days is also a popular choice.

Siavonga is on Lake Kariba about 2½ hours away from Lusaka Protea Lodge Just outside Lusaka, it provides a great place to stay, game drives, a swimming pool, and lions.

Overview adapted from Wikipedia, travel guide fromWikivoyage (CC BY-SA)。Photography via Wikimedia Commons.

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