Luanda

Understand

History Luanda was founded in 1575 under the name São Paulo de Loanda by a hundred families of settlers and four hundred soldiers. Two forts were constructed in the early 17th century and the city became Portuguese Angola's administrative centre in 1627. From the late 16th century until 1836, Luanda was the port where nearly all slaves bound for Brazil left. Aside from a brief period of Dutch rule (1640–48), this period was relatively uneventful, with Luanda growing much like many other colonial cities, albeit with a strong Brazilian influence as a result of the extensive shipping trade between these Portuguese colonies. The independence of Brazil in 1822 and the end of slavery in 1836 left Luanda's future looking bleak, but the opening of the city's port to foreign ships in 1844 led to a great economic boom. By 1850, the city was arguably the most developed and one of the greatest cities in the Portuguese empire outside Portugal itself and fuelled by trade in palm and peanut oil, wax, copra, timber, ivory, cotton, coffee, and cocoa. After slavery officially ended (resisted by the Portuguese but enforced by the British) forced labour began. Numerous imported crops grew well in the surrounding area to support residents, such as maize, tobacco, and cassava. In 1889, an aqueduct opened, supplying fresh water and removing the only inhibitor to growth in the city. The city blossomed even during the Portuguese Colonial War (1961–74), which did not affect the city, and this modern city was even labelled the "Paris of Africa" in 1972. After so much success, the city took a turn for the worse in the mid-1970s. While largely untouched during the Carnation Revolution (Angolan independence), the start of the Angolan Civil War in 1975 scared almost all Angola's population of Portuguese descent out of the country as refugees (including the majority of Luanda's population). This led to an immediate crisis as Angola's African population knew little about how to run or maintain the city. They were helped a little by skilled Cuban soldiers who were able to help the MPLA government maintain some of the city's basic services, but hundreds of thousands of refugees who fled fighting in the countryside created slums stretching for miles on all sides of the city. The city saw some sporadic fighting during the Civil War which left bullet holes in many high-rises and government buildings. When peace was achieved in 2002, the government began planning to rebuild using oil revenues. Today Luanda's skyline is dotted with cranes, erecting numerous social housing apartments to repla

Getting there

By plane Despite the city's low tourist numbers, it has a surprisingly large number of international connections, which largely service Angolans living abroad and the growing number of firms servicing the oil and diamond industries as well as reconstruction (done largely by Chinese workers and Brazilian firms). A couple of carriers still operate routes based on Cold War alliances (to Havana and Moscow). The city is the hub of national carrier TAAG Angola Airlines, which offers flights to 15 Angolan cities. They offer flights to many cities in West-Central/Southern Africa including daily flights to Johannesburg as well as Douala, Cameroon; Sal, Cape Verde; Bangui, CAR; Kinshasa, DRC; Brazzaville & Pointe Noire in the Congo; Windhoek, Namibia; Sao Tome, Sao Tome and Principe; Lusaka, Zambia; Harare, Zimbabwe. Their long-haul offerings include: Lisbon and São Paulo. International service includes flights to/from: Dubai (Emirates), Casablanca (Royal Air Maroc), Frankfurt (Lufthansa), Paris-de Gaulle (Air France), Addis Ababa (Ethiopian), Lisbon (TAP Portugal), Doha (Qatar Airlines) and Istanbul (Turkish Airlines).

1 Dr. António Agostinho Neto International Airport. The newly built main airport. (updated Dec 2025) 2 Quatro de Fevereiro International Airport. Former main airport, which still sees a number of flights. (updated Dec 2025)

By train Rail services in Angola have seen a dramatic improvement over the last few years. Reconstruction and modernization are carried out by Chinese firms, rehabilitating what was once one of the most extensive rail network in Africa during under colonial rule. However, trains are of limited use for the tourist as they mainly serve commuters. An exception is the long distance services from Malanje. Rail services still have a reputation of not being fully safe.

3 Central railway station (Estação Central de Luanda), Largo Eng. Pedro Folque (1 km north of city centre). Also known as Bungo railway station (Estação Ferroviária do Bungo). All long-distance trains terminates here. (updated Aug 2020)

By car The main road for tourists will be the coastal highway leading north to the DR Congo and south to Namibia. It is very scenic and in reasonably good repair. Roads are one of the top priorities in reconstruction efforts, including a handful of six-lane highways leading out of the city. Expect a mix of okay pavement on old highways and a smooth ride on new roads.

By bus The National Bus Service has just re-opened but routes are not organized yet. There are some local services in Luanda and in between cities.

4 Long dis

Getting around

By bus 5 Transporte Colectivo Urbano de Luanda (TCUL), Rua Amílcar Cabral (below the Luanda Provincial Government building, between Rua de Missão and Avenida de Portugal). Bus terminal and office for the public transit company of Luanda (updated Jun 2024)

By taxi A popular means for locals to get around the city is by mini bus taxis (Candongueiros), easily identifiable by their pale blue and white. Although they are considered dangerous by most expats, locals use them on a daily basis. During the daytime, until around 20:00, they are a safe, convenient, and usually fast means of transport in the inner-city. Fares are 200 Kz per trip, except in rain or heavy traffic, when fares are doubled. Consider to use the Macon Taxi a private taxi company (20-30 USD per trip). Eco Tur also do 4x4 and minibus hire and airport transfers with bilingual drivers ([email protected]) +244 912 501 387 B Home will provide airport pick ups and are available for hire (drivers) +244 222 264 423 B Home has offices in Luanda, and in the US. +1-281-444-5988 (Houston Office). Afri-taxi had 150 vehicles in Luanda and a rank at the airport.

By car The roads in Luanda are generally of okay standard, as is the case on the main routes between cities, but elsewhere road quality greatly decreases. Don't be surprised if you encounter unexpected problems during the rainy season. In Luanda main streets are paved, but streets in the slums are in disrepair, and most roads have no lines or signals. As mentioned before, there are improvements being made throughout the city. Congestion is a major problem with lack of public transport and the plethora of minibus taxis.

By train A commuter rail service is expected to open during the first half of 2021. While useful for reaching the suburbs, it will not be too useful for the average tourist.

See

Fortresses 1 Fortress of São Miguel (Fortaleza de São Miguel), Calçada de S. Miguel. Built in 1576, it became the administrative center of Luanda during the early part of colonial rule and was a self-contained city for the early military garrison and an important holding place for slaves. It contains ornate wall tiles detailing the history of the city along with many relics, such as cannons and the original holding cells for slaves. (updated Oct 2018) 2 São Pedro da Barra Fortress (Fortaleza de São Pedro da Barra). A fortress that served a variety of purposes throughout its history. It was constructed in the 17th century to protect the area from invaders. When the slave trade began, it was then used as a keep for the slaves until they were ready to send them away. Throughout Angola's struggle for independence against Portugal from 1961-1975, the fort housed nationalists who were arrested and then forced into labor camps.The fortress is a military area which cannot be visited without authorization.

Museums 3 Museum of Money (Museu da Moeda), Av. 4 de Fevereiro 151, ☏ +244 226 431 231. 09:00-15:00 M-Sa, closed Su. About Angola's history of currency, from non-cash to Zimbo and Kwanza. (updated Sep 2020) 4 National Museum of Slavery (Museu Nacional da Escravatura), ☏ +244 222371622. 09:00 to 18:00. Built in the area where the slaves were held prior to being taken off to the Americas. The museum building is the Capa de Casa Grande, which is where they baptized slaves prior to sending them off to the Americas. The museum is worth seeing for the chapel and the cannons on the outside. In the center of the chapel is a fascinating stone font, but with no description. There are a few period objects of real interest (such as stocks, a whip, shackles), but the framed prints on the walls are mostly copies from published works, with relatively little accompanying information. The high, windswept location is beautiful. (updated Oct 2018) 5 National Museum of Natural History, Nossa Senhora da Muxima, ☏ +244 222334055. A museum filled with thousands of species of animals, including fish, birds, crustaceons and insects. Many of the displayed animals are endangered, and some are even extinct. The museum does an impeccable job of displaying the large amount of diverse organisms that inhabit and once inhabited the country. (updated Oct 2018) 6 National Museum of Anthropology (Museu Nacional de Antropologia), Av. de Portugal 61, ☏ +244 222337024. Dedicated to educating people about Angolan history and culture, the National Museum of Anthropology features an impressive ar

Buy

1 Benfica Handcrafts Market, Belas, ☏ +244 941 615 450. For local crafts, at low prices, try this market just south of Luanda. (updated Jan 2021) 2 Belas Shopping, Av. Luanda Sul. 21:00 to 22:00. Opened in 2007, it is Angola's first shopping mall. It features nearly 100 shops, a cinema, various restaurants and a central square for live entertainment.

Eat

The majority of restaurants are on The Marginal or on Ilha de Luanda, where Luanda's elite go to dine and have fun. Be careful: when eating out, do not drink the tap water. The Belas Shopping mall has a food court with a variety of options from local foods to pizza and burgers.

Budget Panela de Barro, R. Emílio M'Bidi, ☏ +244 933 552 244. (updated Jan 2021)

Mid-range 1 Chez Wou, Av. Mortala Mohamed 50 R/C Ilha do Cabo, ☏ +244 924 237 190. (updated Jan 2021) 2 Macau Restaurante, Avenida Mortala Mohamede Ilha, ☏ +244 938 967 888. 10:00–23:00. (updated Jan 2021) 3 Vista Da Fortaleza, Rua Massano de Amorim, Chicala 1 (in front of Supermercado Pomobel), ☏ +244 938 550 540. 11:00–22:00. (updated Jan 2021) 4 A Nossa Sombra, Rua da Missão, corner with Rua Gamal Abdel Nasser (one block from Museu de História Natural). A very relaxing place in the heart of the city. Tables are set in the refreshing shade of green plants. Cheap local dishes and fresh fruit juices. Also a shop selling plants and gardening items. (updated Jun 2024)

Splurge 5 Restaurante Café Del Mar, Av Murtala Mohamed, ☏ +244 923 581 333. Formerly Coconuts Restaurant, still with a great Atlantic Ocean view though. 6 Beer Burger & Beef (BBB), Av Murtala Mohamed, ☏ +244 931 003 774. Formerly the popular Cais de Quatro Restaurant. You can still see a spectacular view of the Luanda skyline from your table. 7 Pimms, Rua Emílio M’Bidi, nº 112, ☏ +244 222 326 290. M–F 12:30–15:30 & 19:30–22:30, Sa 19:30–22:30.

Drink & nightlife

Luanda is highly influenced by Portuguese culture. Portuguese beer is widely consumed, although Heineken and Carlsberg make an appearance. Super Bock, Sagres and Cristal (most popular) are popular beers from Portugal. Local beers such as Nocal, Cuca (the most popular, especially the excellent draught version, or "fino" in Portuguese) and Eka. Try Portugalia (Portuguese Beer House) at the beginning of the Ilha, or either of the two boat clubs just on the Ilha for a nice sundowner (Clube Nautico and Clube Naval). Also, there are some excellent Portuguese wines widely available.

Sleep

1 Inn Luanda (Inn Luanda Boutique Hotel Type), Rua Francisco Sá de Miranda, nº 50, ☏ +244 922687350, +351 919863637. Boutique hotel in residential area close to center. Very clean and good air-con with free WiFi. Breakfast was included and they can prepare lunch and dinner. The manager speaks English. Single $225, Double $245, Triple $275. 2 Art House, Av. Murtala Mohamed, ☏ +244 918 001 001. Free breakfast, wifi, a/c, restaurant/bar, beach access. Nice artistic vibe. Kz 55469. (updated Sep 2020) 3 Casas de Luanda-GH Kinaxixe (next door to natural history museum), ☏ +244 222 320 358. Free wifi and breakfast. Kz 56079. (updated Sep 2020)

Splurge 4 Hotel Tropico. This one will cost a pretty penny. Kz 202981. (updated Sep 2020) 5 Hotel Presidente, Largo 17 de Setembro nº4, ☏ +244 222 311 717. A prestigious four-star hotel in the city center. (updated Oct 2018) 6 Rouxinol Luxury Guesthouse (Hotel Rouxinol), Beco de Moçambique nº 16, Bairro Cruzeiro, ☏ +244 923 745 078 (Farah), +244 923 581 308. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 14:00. Near the embassies in Miramar and the centre of town. $180-400. (updated Oct 2018) 7 Alvalade Hotel. Kz 179818. (updated Sep 2020)

Go next

Go a bit south of Luanda and you will find the outstanding Parque Nacional Da Kissama (also spelled Quiçama in Portuguese), home to elephants, antelope, exotic birdlife, ostriches, zebras, wildebeest, and giraffes, which are still thriving in great numbers but because tourism is just beginning to start in Angola, it still has a bit of a wild side to it. It is also very beautiful with spectacular views. When leaving the country do not take more than 50,000 kwanza to the airport as it is illegal to try to take more kwanza out of the country; you may be stopped by the fiscal police and receive a heavy fine (all your kwanza taken and most of your other money) or imprisoned.