Lahore

Understand

Lahore is the second largest city in Pakistan with a population of roughly 8.5 million. The traditional capital of Punjab for a thousand years, it had been the cultural centre of Northern India extending from Peshawar to New Delhi. The origins of Lahore are shrouded in the mists of antiquity but Lahore is undoubtedly ancient. Today, Lahore is certainly worth a visit, but don't come expecting a tranquil city overflowing with history, art and culture: these qualities do exist but are hidden under the surface of a sprawling, traffic clogged and polluted south Asian city. Forward planning is recommended if the tourist is going to get the most out of what Lahore has to offer - the time of year to visit, the choice of hotel, the restaurants to dine at, the art galleries and the shopping areas to frequent are all key to getting the most out of your stay. Lahore is a relatively friendly and liberal city. There is an old saying, that in every Lahori, there is a Mughal prince. The city has known ages of cultural, intellectual, musical, literary and humanistic evolution, which has consequently led to the fermentation and over fermentation of this rich brew we call Lahore.

History Legend has it that it was founded about 4,000 years ago by Loh, son of Rama, the hero of the Hindu epic, the Ramayana. Reminiscent of its hoary past are the remains of a subterranean temple attributed to Rama, in the northern part of the Royal Fort. Lahore is at least 2,000 years old. After Islam came to South Asia, it became a centre of learning, and attracted some of the region's greatest mystics, writers and artists. The people of Lahore, when they want to emphasize the uniqueness of their town say "Lahore, Lahore aye" (Lahore is Lahore). Lahore is the city of poets, artists and (until 2007) the centre of the Pakistani film industry. It has the largest number of educational institutions in the country and some of the finest gardens in the continent. Apart from being the cultural and academic centre of the country, Lahore has the finest Mughal architecture in Pakistan. For more than 200 years (beginning from about 1524), Lahore was a thriving cultural centre of the Mughal Empire, and Mughal emperors beautified Lahore, with palaces, gardens and mosques. Hiuen Tsang, the famous 7th century Chinese pilgrim, gave a vivid description of Lahore. Lying on the main trade and invasion routes to South Asia, Lahore has been ruled and plundered by a number of dynasties. Muslim rule began here when Qutub-ud-din Aibak was crowned in Lahore in 1206 and became the first Muslim Sultan of the Subcont

Getting there

By plane 1 Allama Iqbal International Airport (LHE IATA) (20–30 minutes from the city centre). The airport is a major hub by Pakistan standards, but not by international standards. Pakistan International Airlines with daily arrivals from the rest of Pakistan, connecting flights into nearby hub airports Qatar, Dubai, Bangkok for onward connections to the Middle East, Europe, North America, and South-East Asia. Taxis and shuttles are available to take passengers from the city to the airport; with unmetered taxis it is advisable to set the rate beforehand. The proposed Lahore Mass Rapid Transit System will be linked from different parts of the city to the airport.

By train There are routes from all major Pakistani cities to Lahore with Pakistan Railways official website. Trains from southern destinations (Multan, DG Khan, Karachi, etc.) and northern destinations (Gujrat, Gujranwala, Jhelum, Rawalpindi, Peshawar, etc.) run from the main station. It also connects to the western part of Pakistan to Faisalabad and beyond. The Samjhauta Express (Friendship Express) runs twice a week between Lahore and Amritsar, across the border in India. Local stations in Lahore are Shahdara Bagh, Badami Bagh, Moghalpura, Baghbanpura, Harbanspura, Jallo, and Wagah. These stations mostly have peak-hour services for commuters to Lahore.

2 Lahore Junction railway station (لاہور جنکشن ریلوے اسٹیشن). (updated Feb 2022) 3 Lahore Cantonment railway station (لاہور کینٹ ریلوے اسٹیشن). A smaller station that serves some trains from Karachi, situated near the airport. (updated Apr 2021)

By car A modern motorway connects Lahore to Islamabad, Faisalabad and Peshawar. The motorway is considerably better than the GT road, even though it is longer. While Pakistani traffic is generally chaotic and highly dangerous, the motorway is very comfortable and one of the few places traffic laws are enforced. Traffic Police enforce traffic laws on highways too. Taxis are possible to/from the Indian border for ~Rs 400.

By bus From the Indian border, bus #4 runs to the Main train station for Rs 20. Minibuses are the cheapest way to get between the larger cities, and the only way to get to some more remote destinations. They can be uncomfortably crowded, so if possible opt for a more comfortable larger bus. Daewoo has its own terminal away from the main bus station, on Ferozpur Road near Kalma Chowk and Liberty Market. Clean, comfortable, air-conditioned coaches run regularly between Lahore to all major cities of Punjab, KP and Sindh including Karachi plus many smaller cities and towns such as

Getting around

Lahore is a huge and sprawling city. In the old town, walking or a tuk-tuk are your only options. You get to see a lot more on foot, just remember to wear comfortable shoes if you are going to be walking a great distance. Other than in winter, it will be too hot to walk long distances during the day. Sunday mornings are quiet and are a good time to explore. Locals are generally helpful in providing directions to well-known spots. However, you should still ask two or three people to confirm the address, especially if you are driving. Using the GPS function on your phone can also be helpful.

By metro Lahore Metro. Opened in October 2020, Lahore Metro is Pakistan's first metro system. This mostly-elevated metro runs for 27.1 km (16.8 mi) serving 26 stations. Only the Orange Line is operational. A further two lines are propsed. Rs 25-45, depending on distance traveled. (updated Feb 2025)

By auto-rickshaw Auto-rickshaws/Qingqis are open rickshaws with (narrow) rear-facing seats, or with two seats facing forward and two backward. They are handy for moving around in the Inner City, since it's easier to see where you're going. Tourists used to average western road etiquette might be horrified by the chaos on the roads - but it almost seems to work. Qingqi drivers have an unbelievable sense of space, speed and angles and you may well learn to trust them (or not). Rickshaws are the cheapest and, for women, the safest individual forms of public transport. Haggle thoroughly with the driver; if you do not speak Punjabi or Urdu or are clearly a foreigner, try to get a Lahori friend to ensure you don't get ripped off. Try to find a rickshaw with a well-padded seat, otherwise you will come out bruised and aching. You can also order a rickshaw by using Careem or InDrive app.

By taxi Taxis are a rarity on the streets of Lahore - with auto-rickshaws having cornered the market - for a taxi you need to book one by phone. Most taxi drivers and, indeed, rickshaw drivers, carry mobile phones; it may be useful to take a number down if you find someone especially reliable. Do not take taxis in the Inner City, as the streets are narrow and very crowded. Either walk or take a qingqi. InDrive, Uber, and "Careem" are also available in the city. Minivans are probably the most dangerous form of public transport, with very rash drivers. Women will find these especially uncomfortable, as they are very crowded. Often women must sit in an undersized cubicle or with the driver, to prevent harassment. Buses are usually cleaner and more comfortable than minivans, and usually have

See

Walled City The Walled City of Lahore is one of the oldest cities in the world and comprises the following places for sightseeing.

1 Lahore Fort (شاہی قلعہ, Shahi Qila). A huge structure where the Mughal and Sikh rulers built their imperial quarters. It is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. There is a small museum dedicated to the Sikh period of the 18th century. A friendly museum caretaker might agree to take you into the summer rooms underground. For non-Pakistanis is Rs 500. 2 Alamgiri Gate. The iconic entrance to the fort. Located opposite the Badshahi Mosque. (updated Feb 2017) 3 Shah Burj gate. Decorated with colored tiles. Known as the "Elephant Gate" because royal elephants would enter here. Just inside the gate is the Hathi Paer (Elephant Path) - a staircase with very wide steps so that an elephant's feet could fit on them while climbing to the upper level of the fort. The fort's wall outside this staircase is decorated with tiles including pictures of elephants. (You will also find the Alamgiri Gate occasionally called the Elephant Gate, because its two columns vaguely resemble elephant feet.) (updated Feb 2017) 4 Badshahi Mosque. 8:00am-8:00pm. Built by the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb, this was long the largest mosque in the world. Entrance is free, but you will be asked to pay about Rs 20 (Nov 2024) to the shoekeeper upon exit. However, it is not compulsory to pay fee for shoe storage. You can instead bring a bag to carry your shoes in after removing them at the entrance. Try going late at night, when there are few people there. Since mosques are holy places, do not wear shorts to this or any mosque; women are advised to wear long or half-sleeved clothing, and to carry a shawl so they can cover their head. Remove shoes before entering. 5 Tomb of Ranjit Singh. Tomb of this Sikh ruler of Lahore. Located next to the square between Lahore Fort and the Badshahi Mosque. (updated Feb 2017) 6 Minar-e-Pakistan. This tower, sometimes called the "Eiffel Tower of Pakistan", was built on the site where in 1940 the creation of a separate state for Muslims was recognized. Located in a park in front of the Fort and Badshahi Mosque. (updated Feb 2017) 7 Wazir Khan Mosque. An exquisite tiled mosque located near Delhi Gate. 8 Shahi Hammam (Imperial Baths). A Persian-style bathhouse built in 1635, restored in 2015, and covered with beautiful frescos. (updated Feb 2017) Haveli Asif Jah. (updated Feb 2017) In the Mughal days, the Old City was surrounded by a 9-metre-high brick wall and had a rampart running around it which served as a protection for the city.

Do

On Thursdays there is a regular Sufi gathering at the 1 Shah Jamal Tomb. The renowned drummer Pappoo Saein and his disciples perform on the huge two-sided dhol, and devotees of the saint enter trances and dance wildly as hundreds of people watch. There is a separate seating area for women and foreigners; this is very comfortable and has the best view in the enclosure. Catch a movie. Theaters include Sozo World (in Fortress Stadium), the DHA Cinema (R Block DHA near Defence Public School for Boys), Cinestar (Township), Cinegold (Bahria Town), or The Plaza Cinema (on Queen's Road). On Saturdays there is a regular "Movie night" organized by Lahore Film and Literary Club at South Asian Media Centre. The projector featuring full HD/Blu-ray 1080p resolution, followed by discussions after the films, available as part of the LFLC evenings. You can also interact with friends over a cup of coffee at the cafe which also serves as a perfect place to initiate debate or simply share an idea. The club offers other facilities with its literary club offering literary seminars, poetry readings and a library. Lahore has long been a bastion for sport. An excursion to a polo game would be a memorable experience. Pakistan is one of only 8 nations to play polo professionally, and fields some 26 professional clubs. Lahore's most famous club is Lahore Polo Club, where emperors, kings and other notables have been playing for centuries. Foreign teams often play here in friendly games, and facilities are first rate. Cricket: 2 Gaddafi Stadium, Hafeez Kader Rd, ☏ +92 423 571 7231. Built in 1959, renovated in 1996 and named for the Libyan leader Muammar Gaddafi, this has a capacity of 27,000 and hosts international Test matches, and Lahore Qalanders in the T20 Pakistan Super League. (updated Oct 2023) Medical tourism is a growing industry in Lahore due to its high quality and low cost, especially in sectors like Dental treatment, Hair transplant, Cosmetic surgery and Open heart surgery. Go to bazaars and look around, you can buy amazing jewellery, crockery, souvenirs and of course clothes! Go karting or playing paintball in one of the several amusement parks in town. These can be found at Fortress Stadium and Sozo Water Park (Jallo). Enjoy street food and local special treats in the aptly named 3 Gawalmandi Food Street and 4 Anarkali Food Street. Wagah Border Ceremony, Grand Trunk Road, Wagah. Daily 4:15 PM or 5:15 PM depending on the season. A patriotic and energetic display of military showmanship between India and Pakistan, known for its loud atmosphere and extended wait times. Th

Buy

Bazaars The traditional bazaars of the inner city are roughly divided according to what is produced and/or sold there. Bargaining is de rigueur.

1 Anarkali bazaar. Named after a courtesan who was buried alive for loving a prince, is one of the chief shopping areas. Anarkali Bazaar is a treasure-trove, selling virtually everything from handicrafts to transistor radios, women's clothing to refrigerators. It is a maze of lanes and alleys which stretch northwards from the Mall to the Central Museum's end. The bazaars in the old city are the ones people romanticize in literature and films. They consist of tiny alleys, some of which will admit a rickshaw, a string of donkeys or carts- and pedestrians have to leap into doorways to give room. Some alleys are only possible single file. (updated Feb 2017) 2 Ichra Bazaar. Has the best quality of unstitched silk, cotton and printed material of all sorts. (updated Feb 2017) Mozang Bazaar sells some particularly interesting hand-block printed cloth, tablecloths and bedspreads.

Shopping malls 3 Panorama mall, Mall Road. An ideal place to buy formal male clothes. It houses over 1000 shops so you have a large variety of clothes to choose from and that is too at a competitive price. (updated Jun 2026) 4 PACE. Shopping mall with food, clothes, electronics, movies. Located in Link Road, Model town. (updated Feb 2017) 5 Mall of Lahore (Cantonment). A very prestigious shopping mall with a super market named green valley mall. (updated Feb 2017) Xinhua Mall has brands such as Nike, The Body shop, Levis, Cross Roads, Next, Minni Minors and from the local brands we have Ammar Bilal, Nomi Ansari, Out Fitters and Saira Ahsan.

Other Trendy types congregate in the Gulberg and Defence suburbs. In Gulberg, MM Alam Road is the hippest part of town, with all the most expensive designer shops, including fine furniture and clothing, both Western and Pakistani, and the best restaurants.

6 Liberty Market (Gulberg). A large circular market with hundreds of shops selling clothing, electronics, and so on. A basement shop in Liberty (tell the rickshaw driver it's near H Karim Bakhsh) has good handicrafts, and can be bargained with. (updated Feb 2017) 7 Ferozsons Book Centre, Mall Road. The oldest book shop in Lahore. (updated Feb 2017) Readings bookshop in Main Boulevard Gulberg and Variety Books in liberty market are a must see. Last word in Gulberg at 32-A, Mian Mehmood Ali Kasoori Road. Raja Centre in Gulberg has a good selection of handloom 'khadi' fabric, both stitched and unstitched. Higher end khadi can be bought at the Khaadi

Eat

Lahoris are famed for their food and for their consumption thereof. This is reflected in the array of restaurants in Lahore.

Budget For nihari, go to Haji Nihari on Jail Road or inside Lohari Gate; for chicken paratha rolls go to Karachi Silver Spoon in Liberty Market, and so on lastly go to Muhammadi Nihari in Mozang. The 'Food Street' of Gowal Mandi is a must-visit for dinner - you'll find a street full of shops selling fine Lahori fare, and the setting, amidst traditional jharoka architecture, is lovely. If you make it to Food Street, go by auto rickshaw (Rs 30) or walk to Mochi Gate and try Rasheeds kebabs or Saiyns kebabs. Mochi Gate is also home to Fazal Sweets and Rafique Sweet House. Bhaiya kabab in Model Town is foremost name in Kabab Street, where you will enjoy bar-b-que with fresh soda. A 200/300-m long street with historically preserved 2/3 storey old houses on both sides which are lightened up in a very special way giving a very historical and magnificent look. The environment is a real creation of culture of Lahore, the mughal era. You will find around a hundred restaurants in this street which mouth watering menus. Do try Chappal Kababas, Saag with Makai ki roti, Golas of Ice, Sardar ki Machli and anything you like because a lot of variety is present. Phajjay Ke Paye at Red Light Area - Heera Mandi Lahore, is very famous and highly energetic. Those having physical weakness must try this dish.

1 Chamman Ice Cream, Beaden Road adjacent to Hall Road, next to Mall Road. A famous ice-cream parlour offering 20 different flavours. They also offer milkshakes and juices of various kinds. (updated Feb 2017)

Basheer-dar-ul-Mahi at Mazang Chok Lahore - fried fish is served in 2/3 forms. You will see people queued up in lines to get their order here. Don't go if you don't have much time. But this fish is worth waiting this much. Parathas and Lassi at Mazang Lahore - Near the Baheer-dal-ul-Mahi is this very cheap and small scale restaurant. Serves paraths of potatoes, minced chicken, egg and others with Tea or delicious Lassi. Don't miss this at breakfast or anytime you want to have something energetic. Gourmet foods is very famous and it has over 100 outlets in Lahore. Student Biryani. Fortress Stadium. Popular Pakistani food chain that is best known for selling its biryani dish. Has branches all over the city as well in Karachi, Dubai and Sharjah. Cakes and bakes is a very good bakery. On the same range: Kashmir bakery, Bon vivant cafe, Massoms cafe. Jalal Sons: 12 E main market, Gulberg. Kitchen Cuisine: in Allama Iqbal town, DHA, Defence,

Drink & nightlife

Alcohol is illegal for Muslim Pakistanis. Clubbing is quite popular but not easy to find, majority of the clubs being private and invite only. Clubs

Parties at Farmhouse Caviar Lounge, a bar/club in Royal Palm. Club Bhurban, in Pearl Continental hotel Uptown LA in Defence R block. The club opens after 11PM at night till 4AM in the morning 1 Peeru's Cafe, Green Acres Main Rd. Situated about an hour outside of Lahore. Peeru's, a cafe with an artistic flair. Saturday night is always Jazz Night, Peeru's cafe is really the only place which has live jazz music. Tuesday is Sufi night. Sitting inside, it even feels like some cafe in Venice. Chalupa club. Disco beat in Muslim town. Bon vivant cafe Panini Italian Cafe. AK lounge:First floor shop4 and 5 in Xinhua mall in Gulberg 3. Cafe rock: 56 b3 Gulberg 3. Cafe forest: 57 T Gulberg. Chez Nur bistro: 39 C1 Gulberg 3.Tel:(92)35759835. Gulberg: 2B 3 Gulberg 3. Defence: 181/Y Block, phase three DHA. Cinamoon Coffee lounge and Bakery: Sharah e Quaid e Azam, Avari Hotel. Coffee tea and company: 3B3 Gulberg. Espresso: Chez Casa, Gulberg three. Florigelium: 73L, Gulberg. Gloria Jeans Coffee: Defence: 42Z, Commercial; and Gulberg: 25/2B, Kasuri road. Lahore Grand: Zafar Ali Road. Lums: DHA, Lahore Cantt. Mall of Lahore: 172 Tufail Road, Lahore Cantt. Hobnob Cafe:DHA phase 2. Jamin Java Cafe: Has three branches in Lahore mainly in Defence, Gulberg and Johar Town. Luciano at Ammar Belal: Kasuri road, Gulberg. Malees cafe: At Jail road and in Gulberg, three at MM.Alam road. White Dining Lounge: At MM.Alam road, Gulberg, Lahore. World Fashion cafe: Kasuri road, Gaulberg, Lahore. Roasters: Gulberg 3, Lahore. Nadia cafe: Pearl Continental Hotel, Sharah e Quaid e azam.

Sleep

For the visitor there are three broad options of areas in which to stay

In or near the old town - has the advantage of having all the historical sights on your doorstep - however you are then limited for evening entertainment unless you want a long tuktuk ride. However the two 'rooftop' restaurants overlooking the mosque are nearby. Along Mall Road probably in one of the big and expensive chain hotels - you will be equidistant from the old town and the nightlife In Gulberg or Defense - where you will having the nice restaurants and shopping on your doorstep, and are nearer the airport. These tradeoffs are important because of Lahore's awful traffic, and you want to minimise the amount of (daytime especially) travel in the city. Sunday mornings are very quiet however and this is a good time to visit Mall Road and the old town. Hotels and guesthouses are the two main options in the city. Hotels are a bit more expensive but usually have western-style toilets and are cleaner.

Budget There are scores of options for travelers. If you feel like staying on budget there are some fairly crowded and over-priced options near the train station, which is in an overwhelmingly busy and chaotic part of the city - not for the faint-hearted. Westerners will often need to bargain if they wish to receive a fair price.

1 Lahore Backpackers Hotel (Amin Building), Near UBL SD. Vault, 65 The Mall (Regale Chowk, above Subway Sandwich), ☏ +92 42 37351544, +92 42 37351545. Backpackers hostel. They arrange many trips to local cultural events and offer extremely clean accommodation at very reasonable rates. They can organize parking. Rs 500 dorms, Rs 1000 doubles. (updated Nov 2015) Regale Internet Inn, Surriaya Mansion 65, ☏ +92 42 3731-1987, [email protected]. The owner, Malik, is a former journalist who can show you some amazing off-the-wall stuff in the city, including weekly trips to Shah Jamal on Thursday nights. It's slightly expensive for what it is, but pretty much the best option in town and worth it for the security and to meet other travelers. It is down an alley and upstairs, behind H. Karim Busch & Sons supermarket. They are pretty good at responding online bookings and often update their blog posts. Rs 200 dorms, Rs 450 doubles.

Mid-range Alpine Hotel, 38-M-Block (in Model Town Extension), ☏ +92 42 516-8401. Ambassador Hotel, 7 Davis Rd, ☏ +92 42 631-6820. Amer Hotel, 46 Lower Mall, ☏ +92 42 711-5015, [email protected]. Carlton Tower Hotel Lahore, 14 Empress Rd, ☏ +92 333 0130766. Mirage Hotel Lahore, 21 Lake Rd, ☏ +92 42 7238126,

Go next

Wagah Border The border between Pakistan and India is also an attraction for tourists, with a ceremony at the border everyday. For foreigners, crossing the Wagah border to India and visiting the Golden Temple in Amritsar is a lifetime experience. However, for this you will need an Indian visa. If coming from Wagah at the Pakistani border, take a cycle-rickshaw (Rs 15, 3 km) to the Attari station, where you can catch a local bus to Amritsar (Rs 15, 25 km). Taxis also use this route and charge around Rs 200(800 from the raja sansi airport) for the entire vehicle. Amritsar is about 32 km from Lahore. As of July 2024, the Pakistani side is under construction so the Indian side is much better. Changa Manga is a man-made forest 68 km from Lahore. There is a lake, and a miniature railway, which winds its way through its forest. Chhanga Manga has 12,510 acres of plantations. It is a popular picnic spot spread over 50 acres with a lake and rowboats, motorboats, children's park, swimming pool, cafeteria, canteen and rest houses 48 Hiran Minar (About 35 km away, near Sheikhupura). A peaceful rural park with a lake and minaret. It used to be favourite hunting sport of the Muslim kings, especially the Mughals. Jehangir erected the pavilion-like monument to commemorate the death of his pet deer (Hiran means deer). It served a double purpose as from its top the hunters could locate the habitations of deer. It is a beautiful picnic as well as a historic spot. A high Bara Dari Ghat is constructed right in middle of a Talab. A man made big lake, boating facility is also available. A good garden lay out is surrounding the place. (updated Feb 2017) The ancient city of Harappa was one of the first Indus Valley excavation sites; a must see if you're into archaeology. Harappa lies about 300 km southwest of Lahore