Laas Gaal

Understand

Hargeisa has more than 1.1 million inhabitants (2023 estimate). Apart from the occasional couch surfer, there is very little tourism (and no tourist industry), as almost all visitors are working for an NGO or other organization. The city is a peaceful and friendly place, but does require some planning to ensure a successful visit.

Getting there

Hargeisa International Airport (HGA) connects the city with a variety of locations in East Africa, all of which are subject to change. Destinations can include Addis Ababa, Djibouti, Dubai, Bossaso, Mogadishu, Dire Dawa, Wajir and Nairobi. Some flights (especially those which "connect" in Berbera) begin with a three-hour bus journey to Berbera, followed by the flight. It's best to confirm that the airline you use flies in and out of Hargeisa. Hargeisa airport has a very comfortable departure lounge, equipped with a cafe, toilets, television and Internet access. Buy a copy of the local English language newspaper from the paper boy for local news while you wait. A Somaliland visa is required for foreign travellers. These can be obtained at the Somaliland representative offices in Addis Ababa (in person) or London (in person or by post). See the Get in section of the Somaliland page for further information.

Getting around

Hargeisa has an informal shared bus service. Ask a local for instructions. Hargeisa used to have working traffic lights, but now the only traffic control is by the occasional police officer. All residents entitled to drive must hold a photo driving licence, and all cars bear Somaliland licence plates. Taxis can be booked via your hotel (not hailed on the street) but are quite expensive. For example, a taxi from Maan-soor Hotel to the airport cost US$25 in April 2011. Women must wear long dresses or skirts, to the ankle (no trousers), and must cover their hair and upper arms at all times. Men should not wear shorts or sleeveless t-shirts. It is not polite to take pictures of people (male or female) without obtaining their permission beforehand, and you will make people upset if you take pictures without permission. US dollars and Somaliland shillings enjoy equal status in Hargeisa, so you can pay for anything with either dollars, shillings, or a combination of both. Ask what the de facto exchange rate is when you arrive. The de facto rate will be better than the rate at the airport. There are also some car rental services in the city, one of them being “Royal Car Rental” which services at their main building and at Egal Airport, there are other prominent organizations such as Kaamil Car Rental. There is no postal service in Hargeisa. The only courier company which serves the city is DHL.

Buy

Dahabshiil Business Centre, June Ave. The tallest building and largest shopping mall in Somaliland Deero Mall, Wadada Madax-tooyada. A medium-sized shopping mall with four floors and a FlyDubai office.

Eat

As the Somali heritage is pastoral, most modern food is inspired by neighbouring countries, with Ethiopian cuisine being particularly popular. There are rice, spaghetti, cheeseburgers or salad. There are doughnuts, cakes and tropical food. Call into a restaurant and ask for what you want, but not pork as it is forbidden (haram). At breakfast you could try Somali pancakes, a little like a fluffy pancake, and "small meat", which is similar to sausage meat except served loose on a plate). Somali tea is good, and is similar to Indian chai (a bit spicy and made with lots of milk). Food at the "nicer" restaurants is generally safe, as the climate is so hot and dry that it is difficult for most diseases to survive here. The same goes for water: The government-supplied piped water is generally clean, though you might want to avoid drinking it if you are on a short trip. The filtered water bottle is produced locally, and generally is safe.

Damal Restaurant the Damal Restaurant is the Damal Hotel’s restaurant which is the hotel of the Dahabshil business centre. It is located at Waheen Highway 2 next to the Dahabshil business centre. Timeout Hargeisa is a fancy Chinese and American restaurant in Hargeisa, some celebrities in the area come here. Timeout is located at Jidka Muj. Cabdillahi Askar. Pizza Hut the well-known pizza chain has a location in Hargeisa. Pizza Hut here is located in Wadada Madax-tooyada There are a lot of cafés in the city, including Cafe Laasgeel, and Cafe Barbara. Cafe Laasgeel is at Wada Aw Yoonis. Whereas Cafe Barbera is a franchise with many locations.

Drink & nightlife

You will not find any alcohol in Hargeisa in official outlets, but it is still available on the Black Market. Men congregate in cafes with glasses of tea, coffee or fruit juice. Camel milk milkshakes are popular, particularly the strawberry and vanilla flavours.

Sleep

The accommodation options in Hargeisa are surprisingly numerous, with large, Western-style establishments down to family-run, budget-friendly hotels. Most hotels provide transport to/from the airport, visa assistance and mosquito nets, although mosquitoes are rarely an issue in the arid climate.

1 Ambassador Hotel, Airport Rd (1.4 km north-west of the airport, just off the main highway), ☏ +252 256 6666, fax: +252 2 5221 38895, [email protected]. One of only two Western-style hotels in Somaliland, the Ambassador is where foreign ambassadors stay when visiting the country. The facilities are top-notch by African standards, with a 24-hour gym, laundry, restaurants, non-alcoholic bar, room service, free Wi-Fi and a mosque. Additionally, the English-speaking hotel staff can organise visas, flights and tours to major Somaliland sights. Safe for solo females. Deluxe US$52.50, en suite US$78.75. 2 Maan-Soor Hotel, M Warsame Rd (north-west edge of town), ☏ +252 225 3639, fax: +252 225 3638, [email protected]. Slightly closer to the city centre than the Ambassador, and also of Western standards. Has a restaurant, cafe, Wi-Fi and a sports centre, all set in sprawling grounds. Staff can organise flights and visas. There is a similarly named hotel in Berbera. Deluxe US$50, VIP US$90, private cottage US$40. 3 Oriental Hotel, Arwada Rd, ☏ +252 251 4999, [email protected]. One of the oldest hotels in Somaliland, it's a decent budget choice in the city centre, adjacent to the gold market. Rooms are clean with working fans, though nothing flash. It's a good deal for independent travellers and backpackers. The English-speaking hotel owner, Abdi, is happy to arrange visas, transport, tours and soldier permits. There's also a pleasant, cheap restaurant in the courtyard. US$15-30, according to season.. 4 Red Sea Hotel (just off Independence Rd, 10 minute walk to the city centre). Another budget option, with clean, but basic rooms and services a

Go next

Located in the countryside outside Hargeisa, Laas Gaal (Laas Geel in Somali) is a must-see. It is a complex of caves and rock shelters that contain excellently preserved cave paintings. The paintings are some of the earliest known art in Africa, dating back to 9,000 BCE. To visit, a