La Paz

Understand

La Paz was established in 1548, and is in the Andes. Altitude of the city ranges from about 4,058 m (13,314 ft) above sea level in El Alto (where the airport is located) to 3,100 m (10,170 ft) in the lower residential area. It is the highest national capital in the world. The sight from the air as you fly into La Paz is incredible. First, you see the sprawling shantytowns of El Alto, slowly giving way to the sight of La Paz, clinging tenuously to the sides of what looks like a large gash in the earth.

Orientation La Paz was built in a canyon created by the Choqueyapu River (now mostly built over), which runs northwest to southeast. The city's main thoroughfare, which roughly follows the river, changes names over its length, but the central tree-lined section running through the downtown core is called the Prado. La Paz geography, in particular the altitude, reflects the city's society: the lower you go, the more affluent. While many middle-class paceños live in high-rise condos near the center, the really rich houses are located in the lower neighborhoods southwest of the Prado. The reason for this division is that the lower you go in the city the milder the weather is. And looking up from the center, the surrounding hills are plastered with makeshift brick houses of those struggling in the hope of one day reaching the bottom. Also covered in this article, the satellite city of El Alto, in which the airport is located, is spread over a broad area to the west of the canyon, on the altiplano. El Alto once served as a residential area for the airport and railway service workers. Now it's a big city with a bigger population than La Paz. The buildings are low - a limitation imposed by the airport. The altitude of the city is about 4,058 m (13,313 ft) above sea level. El Alto is mostly inhabited by Aymara people. Living conditions on altiplano are less friendly than those down in La Paz. People in El Alto are poorer and feel discriminated against by people in La Paz. However, the government is investing in education there, which may bring a positive change.

Bank holidays and special dates 16 July - Anniversary of La Paz

Getting there

By plane 1 El Alto International Airport (LPB IATA), El Alto. This is the world's highest international airport; at 13,313 ft/4,058 m above sea level, it's almost half as high as a jetliner's cruising altitude, and takeoffs require a longer runway due to the thin air. While you may be in the practice of racing to immigration when you get off a plane, in order to avoid long queues, forget about this in La Paz. Take things very easily or you will be seriously out of breath and may suffer medical complications. Just walk slowly to the immigration area. There is an airport departure tax of US$25 for international flights, Bs. 15 (around US$2) for domestic flights. Tax can only be paid in cash, but several ATMs which also give out US$ are available at the airport. (updated Aug 2018) From the airport, the official rate for a private taxi into central La Paz is Bs. 60 per person. Shared taxis can cost as little as Bs. 25 per person. Only use radio taxis with a sign on the roof. Shared vans cost Bs. 3.80. If you are arriving on a domestic flight, you will see the vans straight ahead to your right when exiting after baggage claim. The route that it follows takes you down the autopista, past San Francisco Plaza, El Prado, down to Plaza Isabel la Católica. When returning to the airport, please give yourself plenty of time if taking the bus. Often they are full once they pass near Plaza San Francisco, especially during rush hour 17:00-19:00. The first bus leaves from Plaza Isabel la Católica in Sopocachi at 06:15. Some South American airlines (LATAM, Avianca, etc.) serve El Alto Airport as well local airlines (Boliviana de Aviación (BoA) and Ecojet). State-funded Boliviana de Aviación (BoA) and LATAM (usually for a cheaper price) serve major domestic destinations and some major South American hubs.

By bus 2 La Paz Bus Station. The station has food, ATMs, and surprisingly fast free WiFi. Buses leave for big cities such as Cochabamba (7-8 hr, normal Bs. 20, semi-cama Bs. 40-50, full cama Bs. 80-100), Santa Cruz, Oruro (3 hr, Bs. 15), Potosí, Sucre, Tupiza (from Tupiza: 10:30, 12:00, 14:30, 16:30, 20:00, 21:30), Tarija (from Tupiza: 21:00), Uyuni (from Uyuni: 20:00), Arica (Chile) (from Arica: 09:30 / from La Paz: 05:30-07:00, 9 hr, Bs. 70-100 incl. breakfast and beverages), and Iquique (Chile) (12-14 hr). Buses leaving or arriving in La Paz usually stop in El Alto to pick up or drop off more passengers, depending on their destination. If arriving in La Paz by bus from the south, try to get a seat on the right side of the bus. You'll pass through El Alto on the w

Getting around

Public transport in La Paz is largely underdeveloped compared to its counterparts in Europe and East Asia, or even other South American cities. Due to narrow streets driving is not recommended. Most of the time, a taxi is often preferred.

By bus There are three types of shared public transportation in La Paz: regular buses or "micros"; shared vans, called "mini buses", and shared taxis running set routes advertised on the windshield, called "trufis". The micros cost Bs. 1.30 while. The mini buses are Bs. 1.50-2.30 depending on duration. A trufi will generally cost you Bs. 3-3.50. Mini buses in El Alto are just Bs. 1. All types have their routes indicated on the windshield, but mini buses have the bonus of fare collectors hanging out the side, yelling out routes in a rapid, auctioneer-like manner. You can hail a bus or mini bus anywhere; to get off, just yell out "¡voy a bajar!"

By cable car A system of nine cable car lines (Mi Teleférico) connects El Alto with downtown La Paz and reaches even Imparvi. Bs. 3 for a ride. More stations and lines are being added and using them saves a lot of time, compared to taxis or minibuses, which sometimes wait for decades in the traffic. There is a rechargeable card, cost Bs. 25 with Bs. 5 credit and will save you time waiting on queues for tickets. You need a new ticket for each transfer. Nowadays tickets for all lines are the same, so you can buy a bulk and avoid the queues (e.g. tickets bought at the red line are also valid for the blue line etc.). The locals are very proud with the system, keep it in immaculate condition and greet each new passenger, entering the car. Even if you're not trying to get to El Alto, riding a cable car is an experience in itself. If you take the red line up to 16 de Julio station in El Alto, it gives you a great view of the city from above. It is even possible to make roundtrips around the whole city; Linea Roja, Linea Plateada, Linea Amarilla, Linea Blanca and Linea Naranja form a circle—5 times Bs. 3 for a round trip of 1.5-2 hr.

By taxi The easiest way to get around is by taxi. They aren't metered, so agree on a fare before boarding; a ride within downtown should be about Bs. 6–8. If you want to go further, ask two or more taxi drivers before boarding. A normal ride by taxi from downtown to a place within the city won't cost more than Bs. 20. As far as ride hailing services go, as of 2024, La Paz is Didi country – there are hardly any Ubers to be found. If you want to hail a ride with your mobile phone, be sure to download and go through registration with the Didi app.

On

See

1 Sagarnaga Street (just south of Plaza San Francisco). La Paz's main tourist strip. It's mainly a market street with artesano and souvenir stores, but you'll also find budget hostels, tour and travel agencies, cafes, and lots and lots of backpackers. Don't be suckered by the roving sellers of "trilobite-in-a-rock". (updated Dec 2017) 2 The Witches' Market (Mercado de Hechicería, Mercado de las Brujas), Calle Linares between Sagarnaga and Santa Cruz. Vendors sell llama fetuses and dried frogs for Aymara rituals, as well as soapstone figurines and aphrodisiac formulas. This street is also the best place to pick up a charango or other Bolivian musical instrument. (updated Dec 2017) Eloy Salmon. Shops on this street sell cheap electronics. Calle Jaen. One of the few places in the city with preserved colonial buildings, now housing several interesting museums. 3 Plaza Murillo. Contains government buildings and the city cathedral, Metropolitan Cathedral of Our Lady of Peace (Catedral Basilica Menor de Nuestra Senora de la Paz). The center of the square has a monument dedicated to Murillo. free. (updated Aug 2018) 4 Palacio Quemado (Presidential Palace). Official residence of the president of Bolivia. Tourists are not allowed inside. free. (updated Aug 2018) 5 Main cemetery (near bus station - take a walk or mini bus). Very different from cemeteries you'd normally see in Europe. A big place, many aisles with walls and holes (like shelves), where ashes of the dead are bricked up and stored. Fronts decorated, different things (i.e. photos, artificial flowers, electronic ladybugs, mini Coca Cola bottles) left for personal memory of the dead - all very colorful and very diverse. Sometimes fronts covered with glass doors. Part of walls are multi-storey to keep more ashes. Colored ladders, stairs and platforms help people to approach holes up the walls. You can see construction of new walls being made. There is a crematorium, graves with buried bodies, monuments, crypts, and mausoleums that commemorate e.g. warriors. Big colorful graffitis (related to death but to life as well) make it all even more interesting. Due to all the colors and solutions there, the cemetery seems to be interesting and lively place. Red line of cable car gives you a good view from above. (updated Feb 2025) 6 Valle de La Luna (Just outside the city. Take a local bus to Mallasa (Bs. 2.30) or a taxi (Bs. 35) or join a tour.). Surreal, weathered rock. It is a natural attraction of great beauty whose authors are water and air, which through its erosive effects of terrain created whimsical fo

Do

Take it easy on your first day in La Paz if you arrive from low altitude. Even if you feel fine, resting and walking slowly will help. Try not to eat too much, at least the first day or so. And sleep as much as you can. Visit tourist information services at the Plaza Estudiantes or Prado, they will tell you a lot about what you can do in and around La Paz.

The Self-guided Public Transport Tour. The best way to see the real La Paz is to jump on and off public transport minibuses and micros at random, go to the end of the line, turn around and jump off at any place that looks interesting. There is no way to get lost and each jump on and off costs about US$0.15. Buy fruit and so on along the way and talk to people in the peripheral zones. Inexpensive, quite safe, and you will see the most fascinating things imaginable. Add cable cars to your tour to make your impressions even more memorable - you won't forget the breathtaking view of El Alto with mountains in the background, or the change of perspective when entering La Paz from El Alto. Crazy Dave, Plaza San Pedro (Plaza Sucre). 13:00. "Crazy Dave" is a New Yorker who was arrested for drug smuggling in Bolivia and spent years in San Pedro Prison in La Paz. Most afternoons he can be found telling his story (with perhaps a bit of embellishment) at Plaza San Pedro near the prison. He's quite a character, and the story is interesting and entertaining. (updated Feb 2017) Bolivian wrestling cholitas. Cholitas are indigenous Bolivian women who can be seen all over La Paz in traditional clothing. If you seek it out, you can also see this unusual WWE-inspired entertainment event, where Bolivian women wrestle in front of an audience. Shows every Sunday at Ceja El Alto, Zona 12 de October. Taxis from downtown tourist area at most Bs. 50. (updated Jan 2019)

Peñas One of the most recognizable aspects of Andean culture is its folk music, which you can enjoy at a number of peñas, or music clubs.

Huari, Calle Sagarnaga 329. Its location makes it the convenient choice for foreign tourists, so be prepared for extreme tourist prices and slightly tacky decor. (The ancient Incas probably didn't have black lighting.) Nonetheless, the music and dance performances are excellent.

Cinemas MegaCenter (in the entrance to Irpavi in the "Zona Sur"). From downtown you must go on public transportation. MultiCine, 2631 Avenida Arce, (a couple of blocks south of Plaza Isabel de Catholica). Multiplex cinema with a 3D screen. Shows current Hollywood blockbusters. The Cinemateca Boliviana, (Guachalla and Federico Suazo St). Most mod

Buy

Money Exchange As of January 2025, while the official exchange rate of U.S. Dollars to Bolivianos is US$1 ≈ Bs. 6.9, the unofficial rate of exchange is much higher. It is highly recommended that you bring cash to exchange rather than relying on your card or ATMs. While many places do accept card, you will be overpaying for things because your card will use the official rate, not the street rate, to charge you. Good condition US$100 bills can be exchanged with unofficial vendors for around Bs. 10-11 per dollar. These vendors are not allowed to advertise these rates, but they will be able to tell you what their actual rate is if you ask. So do not be deterred if their sign says they exchange U.S. Dollars at the official rate, or if the U.S. Dollar rate is not posted on their sign at all. These vendors, or casa de cambio agencies, are very common in La Paz. Be sure to check the bills they give you to ensure they are real banknotes, and double check their math to make sure they don't short you.

Best music. If you want to bring some Bolivian culture home and buy some of the best music, the top picks are Discolandia in Prado, Museum of Musical Instruments in calle Jaén, and MP3 vendors near San Francisco Church and market Lanza. (updated Jan 2019) Mamani Mamani Gallery, Jaén 710. View and buy colorful paintings and postcards of renowned Aymara artist and most well-known Bolivian painter Mamani Mamani. (updated Jan 2019) Suritayka Luxury Alpaca Clothing, leather bags and jewelry, 213 Sagarnaga Street, Suite #7, ☏ +591 71719359, [email protected]. M-F 09:30-19:00, Sa 09:30-18:00. Alpaca clothing company, owned and managed by Bolivian women. Suritayka uses only the highest quality of alpaca wool (baby, super fine and royal) to produce pullovers, cardigans, wraps, ponchos, hats, et al. The store also offers leather products and jewelry. Musical instruments. Some small shops (low prices) are in El Alto near the Che Guevara statue. More shops, but slightly more expensive, are in calle Linares and around. You can buy "user manuals" as well to help you getting started. (updated Jan 2019) Gear & equipment. Several shops in calle Illampu.

Handicrafts There are many shops around Calle Lineares, which sell clothing, weavings and other stuff. It‘s sold as made of Alpaca or Baby Alpaca wool. It is not entirely a lie but the fabric is not pure Alpaca but a mix of synthetic and Alpaca wool (80%/20%) or even less. Pure Alpaca wool is heavy and feels cold in the beginning.

Fair trade shop, 958 Calle Linares. Weavings are upstairs, better quality than the stuff o

Eat

What For lunch try the little almuerzo-kitchens. You'll get a decent menu for under Bs. 10. Be careful with or avoid salads the first days. If you are on a budget it is always possible to eat in the local markets. Street food is plentiful in La Paz, including juice, snacks, and meals. The avocado sandwiches are delicious, if you're lucky enough to find someone selling them. Vegetarian options are rare, but easier to find than some years ago. Two national dishes that are from La Paz are pique macho and plato paceño.

Where Most of the fancier restaurants in La Paz are at the bottom of the Prado, around the vicinity of Plaza Isabel La Catolica and Plaza Avaroa. There's a string of inexpensive pizza and hamburger joints on the west side of Avenida 6 de Agosto south of Plaza del Estudiante.

Sergio's is considered good for pizza, and is good for checking upcoming music venues. Chifa Puerta del Sol, Av. Ballivian #503 (Calacoto, Calle 11). Average Chinese. Not worth the 17-km drive out of the city. El Consulado, Calle Bravo 299 (Behind Hotel Plaza (Prado)). Best brunch in town, gourmet food in beautiful surroundings. Wifi and garden. Working with the "New Andean Kitchen" and organic coffee. Closed in the evening. Angelo Colonial, Calle Linares 922. A dark, bohemian cafe set in an old mansion decorated with scads of antiques. Serving Bolivian and mediocre international food. The best drip coffee in La Paz. Painfully slow service. Another location on the Prado. Serves llamas. Tambo Colonial, in Hotel Rosario. Lavish breakfast buffet for Bs. 20 (US$2.50), great international and local food from noon-23:00. Try the Lake Titicaca trout with Beni almonds. Naira, Calle Sagarnaga 161. Catering mostly to travelers (and guests of the hotel—see below), but a good sampling of Bolivian dishes. Expensive. Alo Cubano, Av. Aniceto de Arce. Best place to pretend you're back in the 1950s plotting a Pan-American revolution with Fidel and Che. Contigo Peru, second floor of Edificio Alameda (on the Prado). Good ceviche and other seafood. Eli's New York Deli (on the Prado). Try ordering with a thick New York accent and see what you get. Sultan, San Miguel, Zona Sur. Great Arabic fast food in a tiny setting. Try the falafel for Bs. 7. Order a "super" for Bs. 10 if you're hungry and be there for lunch when the boss isn't around (bigger portions). Pizzeria Italia, Calle Ilampu 809. Serves nice breakfasts with a friendly smile. Pizzas are not good, and also overpriced. La Mia Pizzeria, Calle Ilampu (below one of the two). Cheaper than "Italia" with more Americ

Drink & nightlife

Try a glass of mocochinchi from street vendors. Local law prohibits serving alcohol after 04:00. There are a number of speakeasies defying this.

Cafes Alexander The Great, Av. 16 de Julio 1832 and other locations. Many thought the legendary Macedonian slayer had long since died. Not so in fact, although he is considerably tamer after a rough encounter with a fiery cholita. Blueberries, Av. 20 de Octubre 2475. This café serves very delicious coffee, and also has a very appealing breakfast menu. The café is situated at the east end of Plaza Avaroa, where you may also find an "Alexanders Coffee". Cafe Confiteria La Paz, Avenida Camacho & Ayacucho (close to Obelisco). 08:00-midnight. Free WiFi for customers Pepe's Coffee Bar, Jimenez 894. Decent coffee and a nice calm getaway close to the tourist ghetto. Sandwiches are disappointingly small, but tasty. The "Trekker´s Breakfast" is huge and delicious. Coffee is not a popular drink in Bolivia. If you want a sweet hot drink try api, made of corn.

Bars Oliver's Travels, Calle Murillo (opposite Sol y Luna). Northern English owned backpackers bar serving standard English fare at mid-range prices. Under new management. Fun party atmosphere, and a warm welcome from English speaking staff. Also has travel. Has Wi-Fi and TV for most sporting events and a book exchange (very good, but expensive). Tour agency and great happy hour Su-Th. Wednesday nights are theme orientated with fancy dress. Available for large bookings and tour groups. Great food, the breakfast is very nice and not too overpriced compared with the other local options. Sol Y Luna, Calle Murillo. Dutch owned & managed traveller's hangout. Good atmosphere, different areas, live music, free WiFi, large screen TV for important football games. Pool table, serve coca leaf mojitos, where coca leaves are substituted for mint leaves. Irish, Plaza Avoroa. Food is overpriced but good, and the cocktails are reasonable, though not as good as some from some of the other bars. Mostly frequented by Bolivians and is of course a themed bar. Traffic, San Jorge. Bar with a good atmosphere and fairly good music. There is a large dance floor and a comfortable bar. Owner Asher has taken 6 steps back from managing the place after a sting operation codenamed 'superhuey'. Antique Pub, Pichincha 662. Recorded rock music, and all sorts of old things including fob watches, photographs, a kid's tricycle and a six shooter to keep you amused. They serve food too. Pomp Pomp Salty Man, Loayza and Comerceo. Known for its great clandestine happy sauces. ATM on pre

Sleep

If you do not want to pay for a bed, you can pass a night in loco along Calle Sagarnaga or Calle Illampu. These streets are merged into fairs and museums, so are full of people all day long. Be sure to inspect your room before signing the register.

Hostels 1 Hostel Maya, Calle Sagarnaga 339, ☏ +591 2 231 1970. Quality, inexpensive hostel in La Paz with very friendly, helpful, bilingual staff. The terraces have a fantastic view of the city, and they're located in the best neighborhood near all the bars, museums, restaurants, and great events. Loki Backpackers Hostel, ☏ +591 2 2458748. Calle Loayza 420. Set in a beautifully restored 100 year old hotel, with an amazing bar in the old ball room. Also houses the Oxygen Bar on the 3rd floor with a rooftop terrace and BBQ area. Amenities include real duvets, comfortable beds, hot showers, breakfast, English speaking staff, tour desk, internet and WiFi, International phone service, pool table, TV-room with DVDs, cable, and enough partying to keep you up until 03:00. Matrimonials, triples and twin rooms also available. Probably the worst internet connection in La Paz (and that's saying something) so take care of any online bookings or arrangements before arriving. It was raided in early June 2013 by the police looking for drugs. At least two travellers were caught and Loki's liquor license was taken away. Dorm beds from Bs. 40. Hostel Pirwa La Paz, Calle Ricardo Mujía 766 (central area of ​​the city), ☏ +591 2 2410044. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 11:00. 24-hr hot showers, movies, in-house bar, attentive staff, free breakfast, free internet, pick up service, and comfortable beds. 2 Perla Negra Hostal (Hostal Perla Negra), P. Kramer #775 (Opposite bus station upset of stairs on the left very small sign). Check-out: noon. 24-hr hot showers, free pool table/ping pong/table football, free breakfast, free internet, Wi-Fi in all rooms and comfortable beds. Feels more like a hotel than a hostel Bs. 120 for double with shared bathroom. 3 Adventure Brew Hostel and Brew Too, Avenida Montes 533, ☏ +591 2 246 1614. Bright and clean. Micro-brewery on-site, and a rooftop bar, with BBQs most nights. Just down the road is the annex: The Adventure Brew Too. there, dorm beds are Bs. 48-75, single with bath Bs. 192. Includes all-you-can-eat pancake breakfast, slow internet, Wi-Fi, a range of DVD-films and a small Saya beer. Although their internet booking engine will state they are full, they might have a bed if you call. The location is good for the bus terminal, but a bit off for other things. US$20 per night for a single

Go next

The most popular day trips from La Paz are to Tiwanaku, Chacaltaya, and Lake Titicaca, though the latter (especially Copacabana) is pushing it a bit in terms of time and worthy of a trip.

Tiwanaku – 72 km from the La Paz City. Once there, you can visit the Lithic and Ceramic Museum, then you can visit the archeological site of Tiwanaku and its major ceremonial centers, which are: the Pyramid of Akapana, Semi Underground Temple of Kalasasaya, and the Puerta del Sol. At the end of your visit you can taste a typical lunch place. Laja – A little town on the road to Tiwanaku (10 Bs.; you can go there from La Paz and then take another minivan to Tiwanaku), original location of La Paz. Has big and nice church (open on Sundays during mass). In Laja, buy some local bread - it's specific and tasty. Chacaltaya – You can walk for about two hours, then see a beautiful landscape with mountains of the Cordillera Real and may also take fantastic photos. Depending on the snow conditions it may or it may not possible to reach the summit hut. Salar de Uyuni – The salt flats can be visited as part of a 2-day trip but worthy as a destination. Quime – Raunchy and friendly but sleepy mountain village surrounded by high mountains of the Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, with mines, waterfalls, native cloud forest and 31 Aimara indigenous communities. Lake Titicaca - The world's highest navigable lake. Go to Copacabana (chilled-out town by Lake Titicaca and gateway to Peru) and to Isla del Sol from there. If all you want is to see the lake and take a dip, you might want to go to Huatajata (quite popular among tourists and has some accommodation options). Sorata – Go there for some of the best climbs (Illampu, Ancohuma) and mountain hikes. If you can't go to Lake Titicaca, that's where you may see it from the mountain slope. Chulumani – Laid-back town in South Yungas, accessible by bus or minivan through South Yungas road (quite a thrilling ride). Supposedly a quieter and more pleasant option than Coroico. You can watch coca fields nearby. Rurrenabaque – Entry to Madidi National Park (one of the world's richest biodiversity reserves). Provides multiple tour options to explore jungle and pampa. Can be reached by asphalt road by bus (long ride), or by plane from El Alto airport (stunning flight; Bs. 670 with Amaszonas). Charazani – Home to Kallawaya people (the healer nation). Quite a remote town, but has some accommodation for tourists. Further on is a town of Pelechuco, from where (if you got a guide and a company) you can start one of the toughest hikes (i.e. 7 days) from the mountains d