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Kumbungu

Ghana · Africa

Kumbungu, Ghana
Kumbungu, Ghana. Photo via Wikimedia Commons.

About Kumbungu

Tamale is Ghana's third most populous city (and second largest in area) and the capital of Northern Ghana. Tamale has been voted three consecutive times by the Ghana Tourist Board as the cleanest city in Ghana and is proud of its well organized road networking in comparison to other cities and regions through Ghana. There are many things to do inside the city. Many visitors also use Tamale as a launching point for visits to Mole National Park, Tongo Hills, and the Paga Crocodile Pond.

The city has grown a conglomeration of villages with architectural blend of traditional mud houses to one with modern buildings, international airport, and several offices of multinational organizations and companies.

Kumbungu travel guide

Getting there

Public bus from Accra or Kumasi is cheap and safer than the many private bus drivers. It takes 11 hours from Accra, leaving around 8AM so make sure you make a bathroom stop on the lunch stop as you might not be able to otherwise. You can also take a direct flight to Tamale from Accra using Fly540Africa. Private car from any medium sized town with driver is only about GH₵30 a day.

1 Tamale Airport. (updated Jun 2022)

Getting around

Yellow-yellows (motorised cycle rickshaws) are ubiquitous, and for a shared ride you can get from "town" (the centre) to anywhere in Tamale for GH₵6 or less. If you're new to the system, confirm the price before getting in. Make sure you tell the driver that you want a shared ride, otherwise prices will skyrocket. You can also take the red-and-yellow branded taxis.

See

Good point from which to visit Bongo (Moon Landscape) Tongo and Congo or if heading to Burkina Faso (neighboring country). Visit the Paga crocodile pond and all the slave camps near Paga. Also visit Sirigu Art Village to learn about all the arts and craft of the northern people of Ghana. It is possible to do a day trip from Tamale to Mole National Park, where you can see elephants, warthogs, several types of monkeys, and other animals. You can book a tour from Tamale township or Tamale Airport, and cost approximately $130 per day plus fuel. There are also several places to stay in Mole. Near Mole National Park, you can visit the Larabanga mosque, the oldest in Ghana.

1 Red Clay (yellow-yellows might not know the place by name, but they might know where it is if you say it's Ibrahim Mahama's Studio near Giana), ☏ +233 37 209 6210. Open 9AM–5PM everyday except Friday. This artistic studio of Ibrahim Mahama seems like a piece of Europe in the middle of nowhere in Ghana. Several of Mahama's artworks are exhibited, most of which are rather large scale. The tour becomes more informative the greater the attendance. Free, donations appreciated. (updated Aug 2023) 2 Savannah Centre for Contemporary Art (SCCA), Montana street (on your right on the Koblimahigu-Fou road), ☏ +233 37 209 6210. M–Th 9AM–8PM, F closed, Sa Su 9AM–6PM. The Savannah Centre for Contemporary Art (SCCA) is an artist-run project space, exhibition and research hub, cultural repository and artists’ residency located in Tamale, Ghana- dedicated to art and cultural practices which emerged in the 20th century. They are renovating for the next exhibition until the "end of 2023", so until then there isn't much to see. Free, donations appreciated. (updated Aug 2023) 3 Nkrumah Voli-ni (in Nyohini Binabaa ni, turn right 100 m from the Tamale Medical stores when you are going towards industrial area, and continue on a 50-m walk and you will find it on your left in the open space). This is an underground warehouse t

Do

Greet the people as it is the only opener to a conversation especially when you need help. Avoid talking about the conflicts in Dagbon and about the supremacy of chieftaincy over others Top up on supplies if you are heading out into the smaller towns or countryside. Chat to the locals, very friendly bunch and you will find the best travel info this way.

Buy

Market on Main Street: The best of products can be found on the main streets of Tamale especially during weekends. However it takes a lot of energy to walk around for specific items and also having to negotiate. Make it a point to ask the locals the price range of products before entering the market since prices could be high at times for perceived strangers. If you ever have to bargain, don't be desperate because there is another seller somewhere who can give you a better option but be sure not to get a reduction in price after wandering and returning to the earlier seller you bargained with. Sometimes you have to behave like someone who is walking away to get a better price. You can find Cobblers, textiles and lots of food joints dotted around. Worth going into for the look of it alone and you may be hassled to 'buy Yam!' especially if you are a woman. Wander around a bit and you will find music shops selling tapes of the current Ghanaian charts, worth bringing a few home to remind yourself of the sunny, almost Jamaican style music being played everywhere. 1 Forsmuel shop, Direct opposite Tamale main Taxi rank, ☏ +233 546712355. 9AM-8PM. You can get your quality products such as electronics, groceries etc. GH₵. (updated Jan 2023) 2 Aboabu market (located on the Tamale-Nyohini road on your left). 6AM - 10PM. You can get almost eveerything they sell in markets here. GH₵. (updated Jan 2023) 3 Tamale central market (enter through the Tamale main Taxi rank). 6AM - 10PM. Buy anything you want at wholesale, retail or consumer price. (updated Jan 2023) 4 Melcom (Where Ghana shops) (opposite the main Goil filling station in town). 8am to 6pm. They use automated systems which identify their products using barcode. You can always pass through for all kinds of products. (updated Jan 2023) 5 Naasant Ventures (opposite the main post office in town). Buy all groceries and goods here. (updated Jan 2023) 6 Cultural Centre (Art council) (it shares walls with the regional library an

Eat

Koose is a local snack made from deep fried bean flour dough which can be bought just off the main street across from the taxi station. Note that there is a risk of food poisoning from roadside food stalls. As always, make sure the food you buy is hot. There are a few western-style restaurants on the main street.

1 Zaachi Ice Cream (Opposite Stanbic bank in the centre of town), ☏ +233 54 113 7479. Open everyday except Tuesday, noon–10PM. There is a reason this dessert place is the first listing: it should be considered an attraction of Tamale. The ice cream quality is comparable to European premium ice creams, and the flavours change daily. You get a generous scoop with waffle crumbs on top. GH₵15 per scoop. (updated Aug 2023) 2 De Shallot Eatery, C42W+W9W (Next to Nyohini roundabout). They sell all kinds of local foods, including a selection of rice and meats. GH₵7–25 for a meal. (updated Aug 2023) 3 Asanka Local Chop Bar, C42W+W9W, ☏ +233 24 572 4172. A very low-key restaurant without any "Asanka Local" signage – but it is the only restaurant in the vicinity. They serve mainly fufu with light soup and meat. Many locals come here to take-away but there are seats outside. At 5PM they pound the fufu outside, and dinner is served starting from 6pm. GH₵5 for fufu, GH₵5 per (small) piece of meat with light soup. (updated Aug 2023) 4 Oasis Lounge Bar & Restaurant, 846 Rice City. Gumani, ☏ +233 54 356 4353. 9AM–11PM most days. Place is very serene. Enjoyable cool music. Nice entertainment. The managers are very friendly and accommodating. A nice place to go blow off some steam after a very tiring day or week. They basically have every food. GH₵60–100. (updated Aug 2023) 5 Kamara's Chop Bar Nyabɔtrɛ, 94PV+3WM. Cook, and sell jallof rice, waakye, rice balls, bank, fufu with PA nut soup or light soup, etc. (updated Aug 2022) 6 Cres

Overview adapted from Wikipedia, travel guide fromWikivoyage (CC BY-SA)。Photography via Wikimedia Commons.

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