Kuching

Understand

Once the capital of the White Rajahs of Sarawak, it has a population of some 642,000 (2023). It's safe and relatively clean. The name of the city, Kuching, is thought to be derived from the Malay word kucing, meaning cat. Many of the locals refer to Kuching as the "Cat City" but it more likely comes from the Chinese word for port ("cochin") coupled with the Malay name mata kucing (cat's-eye) for the longan fruit, a popular trade item. The people of Kuching take pride in their clean, attractive, and multicultural city, so be prepared for a totally different experience compared to West Malaysia.

History

The earliest evidence of human habitation in the area around Kuching came in the form of Chinese ceramics found at Santubong which date back to the 8th century CE. The Bruneian Empire ruled the area when antimony ore was discovered near Kuching, which was exploited and the area developed in the 1820s. When the Brunei Sultan increased taxes on people living in the area, civil unrest ensued, and the sultanate enlisted the help of a British sailor and adventurer named James Brooke to put down the rebellion. He accepted, and being successful, was made governor of Sarawak. With some political manipulation and standover tactics courtesy of British naval power, Brooke became Rajah of Sarawak and built The Astana palace on the Kuching River in Kuching. This began the rule of the White Rajahs of Sarawak, with the Brooke family ruling it as their personal kingdom from 1846 until 1941. After the Kuching airstrip was held for as long as possible, Kuching was surrendered to the Japanese forces on 24 December 1941, and Sarawak was annexed into the Japanese Empire until the official Japanese surrender on 11 September 1945 on board the Australian naval vessel HMAS Kapunda at Kuching. From March 1942 the Japanese operated a prisoner-of-war and civilian internee camp at Batu Lintang, 5 km (3 miles) outside Kuching. Many Chinese left Kuching for the interior during the occupation, to lessen their contact with the Japanese. The third and last Rajah, Sir Charles Vyner Brooke ceded Sarawak to the British Crown in 1946. Sarawak and the British Commonwealth fought an "Undeclared War" with Indonesia to keep Sarawak from being absorbed into Sukarno's Indonesia. The British gave Sarawak independence in 1963 and together with North Borneo (now Sabah) and Singapore, helped form Malaysia on 16 September 1963. Kuching was where Sarawak's communist insurgency was founded in 1951. Their armed struggle for an independent, communist Sarawak ended in 1990.

People Kuching prides itself

Getting there

As Kuching is in Sarawak, which retains control of its own immigration procedures, some additional complications apply and an ordinary Malaysian visa may not suffice. Most visitors, though, can get visas on arrival at Kuching International Airport. See Sarawak for details.

By plane 1 Kuching International Airport (KCH IATA). It is Sarawak's main gateway. There are near-hourly connections from Kuala Lumpur and frequent flights from Singapore, Johor Bahru, Labuan, Kota Kinabalu and other cities in Sarawak like Sibu, Bintulu and Miri. MASwings links Kuching with Mukah. International connections are limited to Singapore and Jakarta. Flights to Kuching are also operated by AirAsia and Firefly. International airlines operating in Kuching include Scoot, and Wings Air. As of Mid-2023 there are no longer any flights to Pontianak. (updated Oct 2022) The airport is modern and pleasant. Passengers onboard all flights leading out of Sarawak (including Peninsular Malaysia, Labuan and Sabah) must head through passport control. On the airside, all domestic flights (both within and outside Sarawak) are on the lower concourse (second floor, airside) and the few international flights are on the upper concourse (third floor, airside). The three gates on the upper concourse (H7, H8 and H9) lead to the holding rooms for gates 7, 8 and 9 below, respectively. There are neither shops nor restaurants on the upper concourse, so international passengers will not have the benefits of domestic ones (unless you are lucky enough to have a heavily delayed flight and the airport grants you access to the lower concourse). Meanwhile, the lower concourse has gates R1-R3 and 1–9. Gates R1-R3 on one end are used by MASwings flights (i.e. that requires passengers to walk on the taxiway to their plane), 1-4 are usually used by AirAsia, Firefly and other budget airlines, and the remaining gates (5-9) by other airlines. Shops, restaurants and makeshift shop stalls are found between gates 4 and 7, including Marrybrown fast food near gate 4 and Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf near the holding room for gate 7. Walking from gate R1 to gate 9 takes about 10 minutes. In the arrival hall (ground floor, landside), there are several restaurants, including the kopitiam 'OldTown White Coffee' at one end and a McDonald's outlet beside the escalators. In the departure hall (second floor, landside), there are KFC and Starbucks outlets. Getting there: Kuching city is about 20 min away by taxi. During rush hour, early in the morning when school starts and in the afternoon when school ends, the trip of just 8 km can t

Getting around

By bus Local bus fares are RM1 under RM1 Flat Rate Bus Fare Programme. Meanwhile, Sarawak Metro and Kuching Metro are free of charge. The stage buses between Kuching and its outskirts like Petra Jaya, Serian, Bau and so forth, have not been replaced with new buses. The main bus terminal for local bus in Kuching is Boulevard for CPL and Electra House for BusAsia. However, there is another bus terminal for inter-state departure which is at 3rd Mile Bus Terminal. You should take your bus to Sibu, Bintulu and Miri from this terminal. Check the usual online agents such as 12GO for online booking. Local buses are run by 5 different companies, but there's a reasonably logical route numbering system and bus stops usually have some signage indicating bus route numbers.

Bau Transport Company - these brown and red buses serve the Kuching-Bau route. City Public Link (CPL) - these yellow and green buses serve for Kuching, Samarahan, Serian division. After STC ceased operation, CPL is the only bus company that serving Lundu and Sematan. BusAsia - these red buses serve for Kuching, Samarahan and Serian. BusAsia is also serving Bako and Muara Tebas. Kuching Metro - Electric buses. The bus route is serving some of the most popular area within Kuching, including Cat Museum, Sarawak Museum, Chinese Museum, airport and more. The bus is departure from Sarawak State Legislative Assembly (DUN) to Senmenggoh Wildlife Centre. Sarawak Metro - Hydrogen fuel cell buses. Two routes: the Downtown Heritage Loop operates everyday and the Damai Loop only operates on weekends. For buses with a separate conductor, ensure you receive a ticket in case ticket inspectors board the bus. Buses without a conductor are equipped with a big coin box beside the driver's seat. Ask for the fare first before inserting the exact change into the box. Pickpocketing and sexual harassment might sometimes occur. Sit near the driver if you get that vibe from a fellow passenger. Inconsistent passenger load along certain routes can lead to drops in frequency and thus, bus operators cannot comply to a fixed timetable and that results in frustrating delays.

By shuttle van

Yellow roofed kereta sewa or shuttle vans fill the void left by stage bus operators, offering somewhat more frequent trips throughout Kuching to as far as Tebedu and Bau. Each shuttle van has their own commuting routes so watch out the routes by reading the destination on the body of the van. Minimum fare for each trip is RM1 and increases with respect to distance. Fares also differ from one shuttle van to another plying the same route by

See

In Kuching, you can enjoy various sightseeing activities. What is unique of Kuching city in sightseers' eyes is how the skycrapers were built in the vicinity of lush green jungles. Kuching is quite the sunset spot, often regarded as "one of the most memorable". Take your shots, and enjoy the sunsets from the Waterfront, Santubong Peninsula or Bako Peninsula.

1 Kuching City Mosque (near the open air market). Formerly the Sarawak State Mosque, Kuching's main mosque. Later it was re-designated as the Kuching Divisional Mosque. It was built in 1968 on a site that had been used for a wooden mosque as early as 1852. It has a striking design, featuring a combination of mid-western and Italian architecture.

Masjid Jamek, or "Jamek Mosque" at Petra Jaya. It was adjacent to the State Library and housed Dewan Hikmah, a multi-purpose hall, usually for Muslim wedding receptions. It has also some quarters for the Hafizs and the Ustazs. It was the most crowded Mosque in Sarawak due to the location nearby and area where majority of Kuching Muslims reside. It is still a most favourite place for Friday prayers due to the mosque being comfortable and air-conditioned. Medan Raya Complex at Petra Jaya. It was planned as the State Government Administrative Centre with a dual-carriageway boulevard linking the Kuching North City Hall and Wisma Bapa Malaysia, but it has only one building on the site called Baitul Makmur, which houses four state ministries. This area is perfect for jogging, walking and sightseeing of romantic (sometimes erotic) couples. A man-made lake lies in the centre of the complex, where locals usually race their RC speed boats after office hours, much to the annoyance of anyone living within the radius of a kilometre. At night, the fine stretch of road crossing the lake often becomes an illegal dragstrip. Come at the wrong time and the long arm of the law awaits you. Be warned. Kuching Waterfront. Any visit to Kuching is incomplete without taking a brisk walk at the RM1 million per 10-m strip of Kuching Waterfront. It is the most popular meeting (and mating) place in Kuching. It was once a line of old warehouses. During the daytime, the Waterfront is the best place to view the Astana, Fort Margherita, adjacent Malay kampungs of Kampung Sinjan and Kampung Lintang or even the DUN complex. At night, it is the best place to see nightlife of lovers, youngsters and love-makers. Some food kiosks are also present here but mind the high charges on food. My Kampong have a small kiosk that serve mee mamak. If you do order traditional Malay food such as grilled fis

Do

Kuching is a great home-base for jungle trekking and exploring Borneo.

Adventure sports Bidayuh Longhouse Adventure (at Annah Rais village near Borneo Highland Resort). They offer overnight packages for you to experience the traditional Bidayuh longhouse communal life. You get to try out all sort of local dishes, home-brewed rice wine, and also lots of activities to keep you occupied, such as tropical rainforest jungle trekking, bamboo rafting, visit to natural hotspring & etc. Kuching Kayaking. You can choose to kayak in the Sarawak river (in the city) for a leisurely and unique perspective of Kuching; or you can choose to kayak in the sea where you may bump into dolphins; or you may choose to kayak through the rainforest and experience the sights and sounds of the jungles of Borneo. Whichever you choose, it's an experience you won't soon forget. Scuba Diving. Dive at Talang-Talang Island to see turtles, or visit the World War II Japanese ship wreck. Qhumang-Balai Ringin Wild Adventure (approximately 60 km from Kuching City), ☏ +60 12 809 4730, [email protected]. River cruising and wild fishing adventure, jungle trekking and natural adventure as well as homestay and wild camping experiences. Kuching Caving, [email protected] (call or email), ☏ +60 128862347. 0900-2000. Easy, intermediate and technical day trips through fabulous, deserted caves. The company supplies you with all equipment and protective clothing. From 199.

Hiking 1 Santubong rainforest. 8am-10am. In the Santubong rainforest you can go on a beautiful, sometimes strenuous and wet hike. Animals such as frogs, lizards and snakes are included. Entry is not possible after 10:00 for security reasons. Trip duration 3 hrs.

Cultural activities Pusat Kemahiran Seni, Sarawak Cultural Village. A traditional Sarawakian dancing class is available at the village listed under "See", also lessons in playing traditional musical instruments like Sape and craft lesson for beginners. 2 Rainforest World Music Festival. Late June. It has been held since 1997 at the Sarawak Cultural Village listed under "See". Accommodation around the festival grounds are snapped up as soon as bookings open so be quick. Good places to stay are Holiday Inn Damai Beach and Damai Lagoon, both a few minutes' walk away from the festival. Or, you can stay within the heart of Kuching city and take the daily shuttle to the festival (RM40 return), or at Santubong Resort (RM14 return). The three-day world music festival brings together some of the best world musicians for workshops and nightly live concerts. P

Buy

There's some interesting shopping in Kuching. For a wide selection of tribal handicrafts and touristy gewgaws, head down to the aptly named Main Bazaar street on the Kuching waterfront. It's worth going inside for a look, as many shops have larger and more authentic collections hidden away upstairs or in a back room. In this mostly Christian city, some shops close on Sundays.

Markets

Sunday Market, (Pasar Minggu), off Jl. Satok, (between Esso gas station and Wisma Satok). A Kuching institution, starting every Saturday afternoon and winding down by noontime Sunday. Very much a workaday market, with tourists few and far between, the emphasis is on fresh food of every description. Be sure to try some apam balik a pancake with nuts and margarine, very filling, absolutely delicious and RM1 a piece. Bring along suitable footwear plus a tolerance for heat, crowds and powerful odors. Two other local markets, more conveniently located and open daily, can be found at the west end of Jl. India.

Shopping centres Plaza Merdeka. A shopping mall opened in 2012 which is in the heart of Kuching city. AEON Mall Kuching Central, at Mile 5, the bus terminal cum shopping mall is a landmark in Kuching. Boulevard Mall, at Mile 4 Kuching-Serian Rd, (not far from Regional Bus Terminal). It offers a hypermarket and department store plus a variety of shopping outlets like Sony Centre, Popular Book store and fast foods outlets such as Sushi King, Kenny Rogers Roasters and KFC. The Spring, Jl. Simpang Tiga (between the city centre and airport). Opened to the public in 2008, 'Lifestyle' shopping mall. It offers many international brands like Esprit, Elle, Mango, Charles & Keith, Starbucks, MAC and Quiksilver. The mall is spread over 4 stories including a carpark basement. The main tenants are Parkson @ tHe Spring, Ta Kiong Supermarket, Padini Concept Store, and MBO Cinemas. Green Heights Mall, Jl. Lapangan Terbang. Kuching's first suburban neighbourhood small mall, with an international Cold Storage Supermarket as the anchor tenant, over some 4,000 m2 of leasable space. It opened in 2008. Sarawak Plaza, Jl. Tunku Abdul Rahman (next to Grand Margherita Hotel). One of Kuching's older malls. Lea Center is the anchor tenant, selling a wide variety of shoes from sportswear to fashion. Wisma Saberkas, at the junction of Jl. Tun Abang Haji Openg and Jl. Rock, is an older cylindrical building on the outskirts of Kuching (approximately 15 min from the Waterfront) that offers a feast of hi-tech products based around mobile phones and computers. Riverside Shopping Complex, Jl. Tunku

Eat

Eating out is the major pastime, with a huge variety of eateries and food available. Most places are pretty cheap with excellent service but the more "local", the less English spoken. Be sure to sample some Sarawak laksa, but beware - it's considered a breakfast dish here and the popular places sell out fast. For the local Chinese, kolo mee, a noodle dish served with slices of roasted pork, is also a daily staple. Although most places are quite clean, there are some which are not. A rule of thumb is if you're not comfortable with it, then walk somewhere else. There are plenty to choose from.

Sarawakian dishes Unlike fellow Malaysians in Peninsular Malaysia and Sabah, the range of food and drinks in Sarawak, particularly Kuching is somewhat different. Here are dishes you might never heard of when you browse through the food menu:

Sarawak Laksa. Sarawak laksa is the most noticeably Sarawakian food in Kuching. It was a favourite among Sarawakian from Chinese and Malay decent. It has a base of sambal belacan, sour tamarind, garlic, galangal, lemon grass and coconut milk, topped with omelette strips, chicken strips, prawns, fresh coriander and optionally lime. Ingredients such as bean sprouts, sliced fried tofu or other seafood are not traditional but are sometimes added. Non-Halal Sarawak laksa can be found at most Chinese coffee shops while Halal Sarawak laksa can be found at most Malay coffee shops (and some Mamak too). Halal and non-Halal Sarawak laksa are not that different, except for the usage of Halal chicken meat and the cooking utensils used by the cook. The Chinese version of Sarawak laksa has a less thick gravy but is rich with condiments and toppings. The Malay version of Sarawak laksa has a thicker gravy but more taugeh (beansprouts). Kolok Mee. Kolok mee is a type of noodle dish commonly found in Sarawak. It is served throughout the day - for breakfast, lunch or even supper though some eateries only serve kolok mee until noon because supplies run out. It is made of egg noodle, blanched in water that looks like instant noodle and served in a light sauce with some condiments like sliced pork, chicken cutlets, minced meat or sometimes shredded beef though this is unusual. The difference between kolok mee and wontan mee, which is popular in the Peninsula, is that kolok mee is not drenched in dark soy sauce and water is not added to the noodles when served. Kolok mee comes in two common flavours, plain or seasoned with red sauce. Cooks tend to season kolok mee with red sauce when they are served with pork. Occasionally, diners may also request t

Drink & nightlife

Be sure to try Sarawak coffee - it is delicious and can be found in any local 'Kopi-tiam' (coffee shop). Also, try a drink called "White Lady". It usually consists of evaporated milk and a syrup base with fruit and a slice of lemon within. The colours vary from yellow to pink. The local favourite of "White Lady" is made by Ah Meng's stall at Hui Sing Hawker Centre at Hui Sing Garden. Another of the stall's signature drink is "Metahorn", made with jellies, syrup and local fruits. There are various knock-offs in Kuching but the taste is different. There are plenty of good bars and are usually grouped together in areas around Kuching.

Bars Kuching has a large number of clubbing districts. Padungan Road is in the city centre, in the Chinatown area. There are a handful of bars along this stretch that mainly cater to the working-class Yuppie crowd. Jalan McDougall, adjacent to Wayang Street, a hotel building away from the Main Bazaar. This is the area where the two main bars attract a new generation of the yuppie crowd:

Junkbar/Backstage, inside the Junk restaurant, this nightclub offers Junkbar - a quieter, laid-back bar; a karaoke area called the Red Room between the restaurant and the Junkbar; and a noisier club area called Backstage for the younger, active crowd which features another bar and a pool table. Havana. Next to Backstage, this club offers a wide selection of alcoholic beverages and promotions nearly everyday. Frequented by the younger patrons of next door's Backstage, this club is famous for its beer towers and 1 liter draft beers. Travillion in Petanak, just after Padungan Rd, is home to many newer bars and mainly caters to the young college crowd. It has bright signage, cheap alcohol, and Techno music. This area used to be infamous for gang-related brawls and other trouble - however the number of incidences have decreased significantly and while it's generally considered safe now, it still pays to be a bit careful. Taman Sri Sarawak is opposite the Hilton Hotel. This area is the closest to the Kuching Waterfront and mainly caters to the Tourist Crowd. And a few more scattered elsewhere:

Matang Terrace, at the Hilton Hotel. Very modern and chic design with chill-out music and the occasional live band. It is one of the nicest bars in Kuching and they have an extensive cocktail list, on a tranquil terrace. The Victoria Arms. (Inside Merdeka Palace Hotel). The only true 'English Tavern' in Kuching. It's a big place with live bands, English pub food, and expensive wooden interior. They have a cover-charge and dress-code for non-hotel guests. F

Sleep

Budget 1 Check-In Lodge, 177 Jalan Padungan, ☏ +60168894896. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Comfortable and cheap hostel in a great location on the main street of Chinatown. Basic breakfast included. Helpful staff. 6 bed dorm and a bunch of private rooms. Nice little rooftop and even a tiny pool! (updated Mar 2025) Threehouse Bed&Breakfast, 51 Upper China St, ☏ +60 82 423499. Native Iban and Scandinavian ownership, in the middle of the city. Approach from the main Post Office in town you have a Chinese arch (gate) on the left of the building which leads to Carpenter St. Walk straight up that street passed a red temple on your right side, in the first junction you turn to your right and you are now on Upper China St. Walk the street up and watch out for the sunflower windmill and the only red facade building on this street. Tune Hotel - Waterfront Kuching, Jl Borneo, Lot 281, Section 48, KTLD, (opposite Hilton Kuching and off Jl. Tunku Abdul Rahman), ☏ +60 82 238 221. Check-out: 10AM. Budget hotel operated by chain linked to AirAsia. Limited and basic services including hot showers. Price structure as of MAR 2016: 50 RM gets you a claustrophobic room and bed. Double that for 'amenities', including towels and internet. From RM50. 2 Sunset Homestay, E36, Level 2, Taman Sri Sarawak, Jalan Green Hills, ☏ +60 82 550 303. Check-in: 2PM, check-out: noon. Hostel with three levels of bunks. The bunks are capsule-style, with a curtain, so there's more of a sense of privacy than at most hostels. Lockers big enough for a medium-sized bag. Air conditioning and free wifi. RM25 for a bunk, discounts may be available. RM50 deposit. (updated Feb 2019)

Mid-range Damai Beach Resort, ☏ +60 82 846999. Beach resort with private beach and 2 swimming pools, tennis courts and restaurant. Can organise trips such as diving and snorkeling. Prices start from RM206. Damai Puri Resort & Spa, Teluk Penyuk Santubong, ☏ +60 82 846900. Fronts Damai Beach with 207 rooms and a spa village, secluded massage villas, a yoga pavilion, hair spa, and a tea house that serves organic gourmet. 2 outdoor pools, tennis courts, wifi is available, a 600 capacity ballroom, meeting rooms. Can organise jungle treks and water sports. (updated Mar 2025) Harbour View Hotel, ☏ +60 82 274 666. Lorong Temple. 2-3 star business class hotel that is centrally in front of the Kuching Waterfront. Standard rooms are quite basic, often occupied by tour groups. 3 Hotel Grand Continental, Jl. Ban Hock, ☏ +60 82 230 399. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. A comfortable 3-star hotel about 15 min walk from

Go next

9 Bako National Park. Beaches and jungle trekking easily reached by bus from downtown Kuching. 10 Semenggoh national park. Feeding times for the Orangutans are 9AM and 3PM. Santubong — with the Sarawak Cultural Park and Damai Beach is easily reached by tour bus. Sibu Miri — there are several flights daily to this major gateway to the Gunung Mulu National Park and the Kelabit Highlands. Pontianak Singkawang