Killarney

Understand

The area around Killarney had industry from metal ores in prehistoric times, and from the 7th century became a centre for religious learning, with monasteries on Inisfallen and elsewhere. From 1747 it became one of the first places to try to promote a tourist trade, as part of Viscount Kenmare's efforts to improve his estate. This didn't get very far in an era when very few people could enjoy the luxury of leisure travel, and travel within Ireland was especially tedious. That changed with the arrival of the railway in 1853, encouraged by Henry Arthur Herbert who now owned the estate. Hotels popped up, and tourists flocked to enjoy the antiquities and scenery around the three lakes, and the longer circuit of the Ring of Kerry. Muckross House and the estate changed hands a couple of times then in 1932 were gifted to the nation, to become Ireland's first national park. The park has expanded considerably since then, and now ranges from genteel municipal gardens at the edge of town to forest with herds of red deer and wild mountain terrain. (There are no fees or gates, but you might pay for parking or other activities.) There are also large tracts of mountain that are beyond the park but protected in similar ways: this larger area is also described here. Bus tours of the Ring of Kerry start from Killarney and always go anti-clockwise, to Killorglin, Caherciveen, Portmagee, Waterville, Derrynane, Kenmare and back to Killarney. Independent travellers starting from Tralee, Killarney or Kenmare will probably do best to go clockwise. Starting from other towns on the circuit, go anti-clockwise as you've a few hours start and should always be able to keep ahead of the wagon train. The tourist information centre is Visit Killarney on Scott's St, the alley off College St. It's open M-Sa 9:30AM-5:30PM.

Getting there

1 Kerry Airport (KIR IATA), Farranfore V93 KHF7 (on N23 ten km north of Killarney), ☏ +353 66 976 4644. This has two Aer Lingus flights a day from Dublin, and Ryanair flights (some seasonal) from London Luton and Stansted, Manchester, Berlin, Frankfurt-Hahn, Alicante and Faro. There's car hire from Budget, Avis or Enterprise, which you need to pre-book. The airport is 1 km east of Farranfore station, with trains on the Tralee-Killarney-Mallow line. See below for Bus 271 or 14. (updated May 2021) You might prefer to fly into Dublin, which has a much greater range of flights and onward transport, or into Shannon two hours drive away. Trains run to Killarney every couple of hours from Mallow (some starting from Cork), and continue north to Farranfore (for Kerry Airport) and Tralee. There's one direct train daily from Dublin Heuston, but usually you change at Mallow, with journey time 3 hr 20 min and a walk-up single fare of €43. Change also at Mallow for Limerick and Galway. See Irish Rail for timetables, fares and online tickets.

Dublin Coach M7 runs six times a day from Dublin Burgh Quay and Red Cow Luas station via Limerick, Adare, Newcastle West and Abbeyfeale to Killarney, taking 4 hr 20 min. From Dublin airport take their bus for Portlaoise, Waterford or Dundrum and change at Red Cow. Bus M7 runs 6:15AM-11:45PM; it starts every 30 min but most buses either branch north at Limerick for Bunratty and Ennis, or at Abbeyfeale for Tralee. Bus Éireann 40 treks cross-country every hour or so, from Rosslare ferry port via Wexford, New Ross, Waterford, Dungarvan, Youghal, Cork, Macroom and Ballyvourney to Killarney, continuing to Farranfore and Tralee. Bus 14 runs 4 or 5 times a day from Limerick via Adare, Newcastle West, Abbeyfeale, Castleisland, Kerry Airport and Farranfore. Bus 271 runs 3 or 4 times a day from Tralee via Castleisland, Kerry Airport and Farranfore to Killarney. Bus 270 runs 2 or 3 times a day from Kenmare. It swings east of the park so you don't

Getting around

It is a common and wise custom of those who make this tour, and are not pressed for time, to hire the carriage at the hotel in Killarney and continue with it "all the way round." It is absolutely marvellous what these mountain bred horses can get through "thinking nothing" of thirty miles for days together or even fifty miles in a single day. - Travelogue of 1858 Town is compact, but you need horsepower or wheels for Killarney National Park - a bike works well. Bike hire is available at Killarney Rent a Bike (three locations, aka O' Sullivan's), Lyne's and Killarney Bike Rental. Budget Car Rental have a desk within Hannigan's Hotel, open M-Sa 9AM-6PM. Bus KY03 runs every hour or so between the railway station and the Brehon and Gleneagles hotels south edge of town. Bus KY02 to Ross Castle and the boat jetty is only running once or twice a day in early 2021. For bus tours around the Ring of Kerry, see County Kerry#Get around. Taxis are usually waiting at the railway station and outside McSorley's Bar on College St. Operators include Taxi Killarney +353 87 191 1955, Shane's +353 86 202 7212 and Sage Taxis +353 64 770 8995. Jaunting Cars were once a common tourist conveyance but are now almost confined to Killarney. They come in various configurations but typically seat four, with a single horse and a driver known as a "jarvey". They'll trot you round town and out to Ross Castle and Muckross; tours of Dunloe Gap involve a transfer from town by boat or conventional car then the jaunting car takes you up the lane. TFI Anseo ("anseo" is Irish for "here") is a new bus service being rolled out in Killarney on a trial basis. You download an app which you use to summon a minibus which will take you wherever you want to go within the town. The adult fare is €2. Website:

See

Town centre along High St is typical 19th-century low-rise, pleasant enough but always busy with traffic. St Mary's RC Cathedral, west along New St, is a grand neo-gothic structure completed in 1855. 1 Franciscan Friary (on Fair Hill north side of the centre remains active.). It's a hefty building of 1860, founded by Belgian friars, and you can attend church services to see the ornate altarpiece and stained glass windows. (updated Feb 2024) 2 Killarney National Park (starts just west of St Mary's). This entrance (junction of Port Road and Mission Road on R877) leads past Knockreer House (nowadays park offices) into bosky gardens and parkland overlooking the lough. The park is free and open 9AM-6PM. (updated Feb 2024) 3 Killarney House (south off N71). the other town entrance. The grand 18th-century chateau proved remarkably combustible, so eventually the owners gave up and decamped to the stables, converting them into the present house. It's used as park premises but is sometimes accessible for tours. (updated Feb 2024) 4 Ross Castle, Ross Rd V93 V304. Mar-Sep: daily 9:30AM-6PM; Oct Nov: Tu-Su 9:30AM-4PM. A well-preserved 15th-century tower house on the lake shore. The owners were ousted after the Glorious Revolution of 1688 and it became a barracks until the 19th century, so it was kept repaired. Visit by guided tour. Adult €5, conc €4, child €3. (updated May 202