Karlštejn

Understand

While Karlštejn is one of the most beautiful castles in the Czech Republic, it is also the most exploited by the tourist industry. The village below the castle is filled with tacky souvenir stalls, very expensive restaurants, and to complete the carnival a butterfly house. You can make your visit a lot more enjoyable by taking 12-km or 20-km hiking trips in the unexploited forests of the Český kras protected area around Karlštejn, hopefully relieving you of some of your unease after visiting the Castle.

Getting there

From Prague you can take a commuter train (line S7) from the main station (Hlavní nádraží) or the Smíchov station. Journey takes 40 minutes and return ticket from the main station to 1 Karlštejn station costs 99 Kč. If you travel in a group of two people or more, ask for a group discount. First person in a group pays 99 Kč as usual, but second pays 69 Kč, and each extra person pays only 50 Kč. A walk-up one-way fare purchased from the ticket office is 78 Kč (as of Aug 2024). Most of the time, trains run every half hour, you can pick them up either in Srbsko, Beroun, or in Karlštejn. If you are in Svatý Jan Pod Skalou, you can hike to Srbsko (8 km), Beroun (5.5 km), take a taxi to the Beroun train station, or take a direct bus to Prague (every two hours on weekdays, four a day on weekend). Check the bus schedule at the bus stop or ask at the restaurant. Coming by car is also an option, a reasonably sized 2 car parking is available at the river. Another option is doing a relatively flat bicycle track from Prague, alongside the Berounka river. Start at Zbraslav, from there follow the bicycle route 8100 into Černošice, and route 3 afterwards.

Getting around

Everything is within walking distance. When you arrive at Karlštejn you cannot actually see the castle, turn right at the station exit, walk 200 meters then turn left over a bridge into the village, or just follow the flow of tourists and you'll get there. The village starts about 500 m from the train stop, the castle is a short (but slightly tiring) half kilometer hike up a large hill. For those who don't want to walk up the hill to the castle it is possible to take a taxi (100 Kč per way) or a horse-drawn carriage (150 Kč per way) from the car park.

See

The castle All of the tourists aside, the 1 Karlštejn castle itself is really impressive. Once you arrive at the castle you can enter within the walls for free but access to the inside of the castle requires paying for a guided tour (220 Kč). There are several tours in different languages during the day. Call in advance to determine the exact times. There is also a 70-minute tour option that visits other rooms, including the Chapel of the Holy Cross, but try to make a reservation in advance. You can buy tickets online or at the ticket office onsite. Unless you are particularly interested in Ancient Holy Roman Empire history you may want to take only the 50-minute tour, or limit yourself to walking on the castle parapets, enjoying the view and reading the outdoor information boards with the castle's history. The interpretive video in the wine cellar (free) gives you a good historical overview of the castle that they talk about during the tour. This will give you more time for hiking to 2 Svatý Jan Pod Skalou which is a bit more authentic Czech experience. The castle is closed on all Mondays, even during the high season.

Svatý Jan Pod Skalou

The name of this monastery translates to "Saint John under the rock", which is quite an apt description for the monastery. The monastery was built on a natural spring at the base of a 100 m sheer cliff (the cliff being crowned with a large cross). Prior to the monastery being built a "saintly" hermit took up residence in a deep cave next to the spring where he "fought great battles with satanic spirits." The monastery is open daily, donations are requested at the door (but not obligatory). Don't miss the little door directly opposite from the main entrance, this is the entrance to the 'holy' cave. The cave contains five large rooms, all of which have been modified for religious purposes. One part becoming a crypt, another having a large altar, others for saintly relics, etc. Before entering pick up one of the laminated

Do

Hiking A trip to Karlštejn starts with a trip to the castle, which was the seat of Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV. The 50-minute tour is delightful, and well worth the time. There is a lovely and picturesque hike available to the Svatý Jan Pod Skalou monastery through the Český Kras protected area (Bohemian Karst or Czech Karst in English). While at times rugged (it actually is 12 km, and not the 8 km marked), it is more than doable for those who are in good shape and have the proper equipment. It begins at the castle walls (look for the red markings near the trailhead at the castle walls). A caveat: the hike is likely to be too challenging if you are not in good physical condition and lack proper hiking shoes. Specifically, the path meanders through forest, stream, several steep uphills, some slippery rocks and tricky downhills. There are numerous locations during the hike where you have no cellular service. Another thing to remember is that the path markings while clear after some experience reading them, first appear rudimentary, so always follow the red markings on the trees. The green trail marks also are fine--they track the red markings until approximately 1km before the monastery, and there is a clear sign marking the turnoff to the monastery. Once you arrive at the monastery (which closes at 16:00), you have the choice to take another hike to the town of Srbsko or to Beroun, where you catch the train back to Prague. The hike from the monastery to Srbsko actually is 8km, and not 5km, as indicated. The yellow signs purportedly indicating the path to Srbsko are nearly impossible to find. For the hike from the monastery to Beroun train station just follow the same red marks, it's 5.5 km and easy to find. There are two train stations in Beroun. The red marks lead you to the right one to take the train back to Prague. Alternatively, if you call a taxi from the local restaurant in Svatý Jan Pod Skalou (75 m from the monastery, on the right), this is

Buy

Karlštejn has shops selling Czech garnet, Bohemian crystal, tasteless t-shirts, wares from local blacksmiths, etc. If you want to buy food for hiking there is a small village-style grocery store about a third the way up the hill. It is on your left (heading up the hill). Don't buy any food, drinks or water from the small shops at the base of the village. They have extremely over inflated prices, a bottle of water costs 45 Kč (normal price is 12 Kč).

Sleep

If you want to camp, there is a very crowded campsite near Karlštejn but it is not recommended that you stay here. If you hop on the train and go one stop further down there is a very nice campsite in the village of Srbsko (about 5 km from Karlštejn) with a little outdoor restaurant serving traditional 'klobasa' and