Kanazawa

Understand

Kanazawa is one of the long overlooked jewels of Japanese tourism — although not by the Japanese, who visit in droves. Its relatively remote location, on the "wrong" side of the island from the usual Tokyo-Kyoto-Osaka tourist trail, has perhaps unfairly contributed to it attracting so few foreign tourists. Kyoto's offerings of temples and shrines are all very well, but Japanese history and culture is not just about them. The samurai, the merchants, the geisha, and the lords have all left their mark on Kanazawa in a compact, easily navigable central area. Kanazawa is part of the UNESCO Creative Cities Network as a City of Crafts and Folk Art. With the opening of the Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo in 2015, the number of foreign tourists increased significantly. English language ability tends to be much more limited than in the likes of Kyoto and Nara, but visitors can take comfort in the fact that locals will nevertheless go to great lengths to help you out. Don't leave here without seeing the gold leaf craftsmen at work. Many of them are over 90 years old and still putting in a full day's work!

Tourist Information Lobby (Kanazawa Station). English-speaking staff always present to answer questions. Free maps. (updated Sep 2019) Visit Kanazawa is the city's official multilingual guide site.

Climate

Kanazawa can get a lot of rain — it's "the Seattle of Japan". A local proverb says "even if you forget your lunchbox, don't forget your umbrella". Although the weather can be beautiful in spring and autumn, it is never a good idea to bank on it being fine in Kanazawa, and winters in particular are cold. Kanazawa is in the Snow Country, the area along the Japan Sea coast of Honshu where cold Siberian winds dump large amounts of snow in orographic precipitation, and while it does not get as much as more inland areas, half a meter or more is not uncommon. A common and lovely sight during the winter months is the ropes (called yukizuri in Japanese) hanging down from poles and attached to tree branches to help them support the heavy snow. Most of the main roads have lines of sprinklers down the street to wash the snow away, but the smaller roads often do not.

Orientation Kanazawa is not a very large city and the main attractions for visitors tend to be concentrated around five neighborhoods.

Kanazawa Station and Omicho market. The area stretching between Kanazawa Station and the Omicho market has many modern hotels and stores, but also a plethora of smaller local traditional eateries and craft shops (which tend to be concentrated around Omicho market). Higas

Getting there

By plane The nearest airport serving Kanazawa is in the city of Komatsu (KMQ IATA). JAL offers flights into Komatsu Airport from Tokyo Haneda Airport and Okinawa, while ANA flies from Tokyo Haneda and Sapporo. IBEX flies regional jets to Komatsu from Narita Airport, Sendai and Fukuoka. There are also international flights from Hong Kong, Seoul, Shanghai and Taipei. From Komatsu airport, buses run directly to Kanazawa (40 min to JR Kanazawa Station, ¥1300; Feb 2023). Frequencies vary depending on the flight timetables; buses usually leave soon after the arrival of every domestic flight. Alternatively you could take a bus to Komatsu Station (12 min, ¥280) and a JR train from there, which is somewhat cheaper and, depending on your luck with connections, not much longer. Taxis are frequent though not cheap, and there are several rental car places in the area.

By train

1 Kanazawa Station, a futuristic marvel that integrates a traditional wooden temple gate with glass and steel, is served by the Hokuriku Shinkansen. The fastest services, called Kagayaki (かがやき), operate during the morning and evening hours, connecting Tokyo in about 2½ hours. The more frequent Hakutaka (はくたか) makes all stops north of Nagano, taking about 3 hours. Without a Japan Rail Pass, these trains cost ¥14,380 each way for a reserved seat. Seat reservations are mandatory for the Kagayaki. The Hokuriku Shinkansen continues South from Kanazawa to Komatsu, Fukui and Tsuruga. Connect at Tsuruga for the Thunderbird (サンダーバード) limited express services from Osaka and Kyoto. The Shirasagi (しらさぎ) limited express also runs on this line, but arrives from Maibara, with some trains starting from Nagoya. All of the above trips are covered by the national Japan Rail Pass. Kanazawa is also covered by the JR Hokuriku Arch Pass which includes unlimited travel between Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka via Toyama and Kanazawa for seven consecutive days using all of the above routes (with the exception of trains between Maibara and Nagoya). The pass costs ¥24,440 if purchased outside of Japan, or ¥25,460 if purchased inside Japan. Unlimited seat reservations in standard cars can be made, but you'll have to pay extra for Green Car and GranClass seat reservations. JR mainline trains on the Hokuriku line, now duplicated by the Shinkansen, have been transferred to private companies, and the Japan Rail Pass will not be valid unless you travel from Kanazawa to Tsubata Station to connect to the JR Nanao Line.

By car Kanazawa is served by the Hokuriku Expressway, which runs through the western edge of the city. It has

Getting around

By bus Kanazawa has a decent bus system to help you get where you need to go. There are three types of buses: city buses, a tourist bus, and community buses (Furatto-Bus). The tourist bus makes a loop around the main sights in 15 minutes and costs ¥200 per trip or ¥500 daily. There are four community bus routes which make 15-minute loops around different districts of the city and cost ¥100.　Buses are wheelchair accessible.

By bicycle Bicycles can be hired from Kanazawa Station, and due to the winding streets and plethora of traffic lights and one way systems are often the fastest way to travel around town. Bicycles can also be hired through the Kanazawa City bicycle share program, Machi-Nori. E-Bikes can be picked up at various points around the city, rented for specific time periods or for full days (or months!), and returned to any compatible port in the city. Check if your hotel offers bicycle rental as well, as some may offer basic bicycle rental at rates lower than many city rental prices!

On foot As the central city is fairly compact, one of the best ways to get around (at least when the weather is cooperative) is simply walking, exploring the narrow side streets. From east (Higashiyama) to west (Teramachi) would take about an hour at a leisurely pace, though to see everything between them properly would take days.

By car Driving in Kanazawa is not for the inexperienced. The old city, in particular, is a labyrinth of narrow twisting streets once you leave the main roads, and you need to be good at judging just how wide your vehicle is at times. Parking in the old city is also at a premium. However, the newer areas on the outskirts are car-friendly, and parking is ample. For those using Kanazawa as a base to explore the Chubu region, renting a car would be a good idea as public transport between some of the more far-flung areas is far and few between.

See

Many of the links below are only available in Japanese. However almost all major tourist sites in Japan have English pamphlets, and Kanazawa is no exception.

1 Kenroku-en Garden (兼六園), ☏ +81 762343800, fax: +81 762345292. Daily 07:00-18:00 in summer, 08:00-17:00 in winter (mid-October to end of February). The most famous sight in Kanazawa, the Garden of Six Attributes is considered one of Japan's Top 3 gardens. Once the outer pleasure gardens of the Maeda Lords, it gradually expanded to take over the entire block. While not completed in its final form until the waning years of the Edo Shogunate, it still represents one of the peaks of Japanese strolling garden design. The way in which water is piped from many kilometres upstream to fill its streams and ponds before going on to fill the castle moats is one of the great engineering feats of the Edo period. In part of the grounds, and with a steep separate ¥700 entrance fee, is the Seisonkaku Villa, built by a Maeda lord for his mother. Only part of it remains, but is a rare example of existing daimyo palace architecture. The upper floor, with its bright blues and reds, is in distinct contrast to the muted earth tones of Kyoto style. During cherry blossom season, entry to the park is free and it's open and lit up until 21:00. ¥320 (free on Culture Day, Nov 3rd), and ¥100 for children age 6-17; ¥500 when combined with a ticket to one of several nearby museums.. (updated Nov 2023) 2 Kanazawa Castle (金沢城). At the center of Kanazawa is the former site of Kanazawa Castle. It has been vacated by the national university, which took over the site once used by the Ninth Division of the Imperial Army, the castle is public space now for the first time in its more than 400 years of history. The imposing Ishikawa Gate (石川門), so named as it faced the Ishikawa district, was once a side entrance to the castle grounds, but after several fires and man-made destruction, it is one of the few original buildings left on the site, the other being the Sanjikken Nagaya (三十間長屋) storehouse near the top. However the long Gojikken Nagaya (五十間長屋) that once guarded the castle palace has been rebuilt according to traditional methods, and is open to the public. ¥320. (updated Nov 2023) 3 Nagamachi Samurai District (Nagamachi Buke Yashiki or 長町武家屋敷). Towards the coast from Oyama Shrine, this is an area of a few streets where considerable effort has been expended in order to recreate the feel of the samurai housing areas. The fact that almost none of the actual samurai houses remain does little to daunt the enthusiasm of the tourists. While

Do

Asanogawa Riverside Garden Party (Along the Asano River banks. 7 minutes by Hokutetsu bus for Nishiki-Machi from Kanazawa Station's west exit. Get off at Hashiba-Cho bus stop and follow the crowd.). 2nd Sat and Sun of April. A delightful place for a stroll among the blossoming cherry trees. This event always draws a large crowd who come to watch traditional displays on an elevated stage built over the river. There are enchanting, graceful performances of singing and dancing by local geisha and maiko from Higashi Chaya-Machi district. Keep an eye out for the water jugglery "Mizu-gei" performance. (updated Jun 2024) Hyakuman-goku Festival (金沢百万石まつり). The first weekend in June. This is the big daddy of Ishikawa festivals. The festival celebrates the entry of Lord Maeda Toshiie, founder of the Kaga Domain, into Kanazawa Castle in 1583 and the following 3 centuries of prosperity due to the massive levels of rice production in the area. The annual rice yield was one million bushels (JP: hyakuman-goku; 百万石) or roughly 150,000 tonnes. The festival stretches out over three days and includes a parade on Saturday, a citywide folk dancing competition Saturday night, public tea ceremony at Kenroku-en and a children's lantern parade Friday night. The parade route has been changed and now begins in front of Kanazawa Station where the opening ceremony is performed; arrive early with a blanket to claim your space on the sidewalk. The highlight of the parade is the costumed pageant recreating the entry of Maeda Toshiie, featuring costumed warriors and ladies from the late Warring States period and early Edo Period. The role of Toshiie is usually given to a famous Japanese star. (updated Jun 2024) Fireworks displays. Every summer, locals are drawn to the river side to watch impressive fireworks displays (free of charge). Special buses ferry people from the station to the river bank and back. On a nice evening, this is certainly worth the effort. It is also a good opportunity to meet and speak with locals. Dates vary; ask for information at the Kanazawa Tourist Information Lobby in the station. (updated Jun 2024)

Buy

Kanazawa is part of the UNESCO Creative Cities Network and any of the over 30 local arts and crafts make lovely souvenirs. Japanese-style confectionery also makes a good souvenir. The city is famed for gold leaf production (金箔 kinpaku) and an interesting and reasonable priced gift is a small box of gold leaf fragments, which can be used to decorate cakes and food or for adding sparkle to cups of sake. Within the station are a plethora of shops selling tourist items. Another area specialty is lacquerware (漆器 shikki) with products available to suit all budgets. Wajima (in Noto) and Yamanaka are two main areas of production. Kenroku-en is ringed by shops catering to the tourist trade. Just as one would expect, the products at such shops are not typically authentic local goods, but they do have the Kanazawa keychains, postcards, and other knickknack collectibles. Kanazawa is known as a trendy city, and fashion reflects this. The Tatemachi shopping street is full of stores, many of which house good deals if you look hard enough.

1 Hakuza (箔座), Higashiyama 1-13-18 (on Higashi-Chaya main street), ☏ +81 76 251-8930. 09:30-18:00 daily. A well-known purveyor of all things covered or decorated with gold leaf, this shop is worth a visit just to see the stunning platinum and gold leafed warehouse inside. Belsel Building, Tatemachi 24. For those interested in Japanese "otaku" culture, the Belsel building is the place to go in Kanazawa. This building houses several stores dedicated to selling products such as anime/manga, figures, and doujin works. In addition, the first floor is full of fashion stores specializing in goth, punk, lolita, and others. Kohrinbo Tokyu Square (香林坊東急スクエア), Kohrinbo 2-1-1 (across from Daiwa dept. store). Houses several floors dedicated to showcasing and selling all of the newest trends. There is a floor exclusively for men, and a movie theater on the top floor which shows a number of independent and foreign films.

Eat

Kanazawa cuisine is famous throughout Japan, particularly its seafood since it lies in the sweet spot of the hot south and cold north currents. The quality of food is so high, that essentially you'll eat good food whatever the price. A famous local dish is jibuni (治部煮), made from boiled and seasoned duck and various vegetables. Crab is another local favourite served up during the winter months, common types include the hairless male crab (zuwaigani) or smaller female crabs with eggs still attached. Served cold with a light vinegar or in nabe style hot pots. Sushi made with fish from the neighboring sea is also popular, the sweet shrimps (amaebi) are especially good in this region. In Spring the tiny gray river fish gori is a well known delicacy. Sometimes served deep fried with salt or in miso soup. Eaten whole it is an acquired taste.

Budget Dai-Nana Gyōza (第七餃子) (opposite the Mori-no-Sato Jusco shopping center near the Kakuma Campus of Kanazawa University). A restaurant that specialises in gyoza. Counter seating as well as private rooms upstairs that are available for hire. The gyoza, known as "white gyoza", are famous in the region, and very unlike normal gyoza. Part of a small but insanely popular chain of "white gyoza" (named after the founder, a Chinese man named Hak (白), or "white". Ten gyoza are ¥360. Go early to get a seat - it's very popular with students and young salarymen. Gyoza-no-Ōshō (餃子の王将), Katamachi (1 minute walk from the Scramble [part of a nationwide chain] and in other locations in Kanazawa). Serving cheap Chinese food in a brightly-lit and often smoky environment. Chinese dumpling (gyoza) are 6 for ¥180, large rice will set you back ¥200 and mains are in the ¥500-600 range. Look for the gaudy yellow, red and white sign near the bus stop. All Osho restaurants have a bilingual (English-Japanese) menu. 8-Ban Ramen Hachi-ban ramen, founded in Ishikawa in 1971 has outlets scattered throughout Kanazawa including one near the Saigawa Bridge in Katamachi. Cheap, but not known for the quality of its ramen. In fact Kanazawa as a whole is not the place to go for good ramen.

1 Ōmichō market (Ōmichō-ichiba or 近江町市場), 5-0 Kamiomicho (a 15-minute walk from Kanazawa Station (or a one-bus stop ride)), ☏ +81 76-231-1462, [email protected]. 09:30-17:00 (although some shops have longer hours). This is a relatively large covered market housing many shops and stalls selling fish, vegetables, fruits and meat. According to its website, it has been Kanazawa's largest fresh food market since the Edo Period. The market also houses many resta

Drink & nightlife

While in Kanazawa, don't miss the opportunity to sample tea ceremony tea (抹茶 matcha), served with either an incredibly dry and tasteless sweet (干菓子 higashi) or a rather more appetizing fresh one (生菓子 namagashi). Figure on ¥500-1000 depending on where you try it; the Higashi-Chaya geisha district probably offers the nicest teahouses. The Katamachi area in central Kanazawa is wall to wall with bars of all shapes and sizes. Some buildings such as the Elle Building are almost exclusively full of hostess bars (often referred to as lounge bars) which may not always be foreigner friendly. Many bars will hit you for a cover charge anywhere upwards of ¥500 per person stretching into thousands. As the competition is stiff bars without a charge will often advertise it quite clearly. The St. Louis Jigger Bar run by Suntory is one such cocktail bar on the corner of the Scramble.

1 Machrihanish (マクリハニッシュ), Nishino Bldg 2F, Kiguramachi 2-4 (Next to a bar called Cadeau. Look for the large white sign.), ☏ +81 76-233-0072. M-Sa 18:30-02:00. The best selection of single malts in Kanazawa, bar none. The English-speaking owner spent several years working at the Royal and Ancient Golf Club of St. Andrews and has visited every distillery in Scotland! If whisky is your thing this is the place to visit. Draft Kilkenny is ¥900 a pint, cocktails start at ¥750, and the vast whisky selection kicks off at ¥700. The fish and chips is recommended. Nyumba, JR Station area, 2-19-4 Honmachi, ☏ +81 76-233-7405. 11:30-midnight, closed Su. A stylish, modern family run cafe/bar near Kanazawa Station. They do lunch specials for around ¥900 (11:30-14:00). Draft beer goes for ¥500 and they have a range of teas and coffees from ¥300. Cocktails are in the ¥600 range. Pole Pole, 2-31-31 Kata-machi (Walk to where 157 (main street) meets water and head right on small street. Bar on the left 3 blocks ahead.), ☏ +81 76 260-1138. until 05:00, closed Su. A reggae music bar with a very friendly staff and laid back staff which all can speak English. Great for visitors to meet locals and other travelers. Good Reggae music and plenty of peanuts on the counter, the floor has a heavy layer of them. You can also eat the food from the Indonesian restaurant next door! Perfect for a laid back and fun evening, especially if you don't speak Japanese.

Sleep

The largest concentration of hotels is around the station area including all the usual suspects: ANA, APA, Nikko etc. Toyoko Hotel and Route Inn hotel are two of the newest. For cheaper options, the Kanawaza Ryokan and Hotel Society runs a Yadotime booking engine, also available in English.

Budget 1 Guest House Pongyi (ゲストハウスポンギー), 2-22 Rokumai-machi, ☏ +81 76 225-7369, [email protected]. Opened in 2009 in a traditional Japanese house, the small guesthouse is adjacent to one of the picturesque canals. The owner is friendly and extremely helpful, and speaks English very well. They also speak some Spanish and Portuguese. Very clean and comfortable rooms with new bedding. Kitchen, fridge and free tea and coffee available for guests. Free internet and computer (Wi-Fi, Desktop PC). Dorm beds (4 beds per dorm, separate male and female) ¥2700. Private room for up to 2 persons ¥6000 per room (¥3000). Private room for 3 persons ¥8,000 (total). 2 Kikunoya Ryokan (きくのや旅館), 1-1-27, Hirosaka, ☏ +81 76 231-3547, [email protected]. Kikunoya Ryokan is a 1960s-style Japanese inn. In a good area for nightlife. 1 person ¥4680, 2 person ¥8960. All rooms tatami mat. TV in room, a/c, refrigerator, towels, Yukata, tea set, Wi-Fi in room. Facilities: Internet-connected PC (a printer, headset, Wi-Fi) all free. Bicycle rental ¥500/day. Cable TV in dining room, Hair Dryer. Ryokan Shibaya (旅館しばや), 2-19-7 Hon-machi, ☏ +81 76 222-3270, [email protected]. The best thing about this traditional Japanese inn is the bath in the basement. A piping hot, onsen sized affair with bubbling jets that guests can reserve for private use. Only a short walk from the station, it has a peaceful atmosphere, free green tea vending machines in the hallways and big bright rooms (western style or tatami available). Unfortunately, you may have to ask your hosts to turn on the hot water system if you fancy a morning shower. The owners are extremely friendly and helpful but their English is limited. From ¥2800-5400/person (Western or tatami), breakfast ¥800 extra. 3 Murataya Ryokan (村田屋旅館), 1-5-2, Katamachi (around the corner from the Katamachi bus stop), ☏ +81 76 263-0455, [email protected]. Small traditional inn runs has 11 Japanese style tatami rooms with common toilet and bath facilities. The staff speak good English and are incredibly helpful. Wi-Fi is available, as well as a PC downstairs. Breakfast can be had with a prior reservation. Rates are from ¥4500-5000 per person, with 1-, 2- and 3-person rooms available. Credit cards are accepted.. 4 Ryokan Yamamuro (旅館 やまむろ), 1-2-19,

Go next

Tsurugi small town, 45-min ride away, is a central point in Ishikawa for Shinto-related activities. Remarkable during end of the year. Komatsu — the site of Nata-dera Temple, a favourite among Japanese tourists and a hidden gem for those looking to see beautiful gardens without the big crowd. Noto Peninsula. A rugged and spectacular peninsula jutting out into the Japan Sea. Toyama Mount Haku (Hakusan) — One of Japan's three most sacred mountains, the others being Mount Fuji and Tateyama. Shishiku Heights Tsurugi Town. Offers freestyle snowboarding during the winter, with a half pipe and selection of jumps and rails. When there is no snow you can rent protective gear and go grassboarding! Another adventurous option is para-gliding. Take the Hokutetsu bus bound for Arimatsu from JR Kanazawa Station's east exit. Get off roughly 20 minutes later at Nomachi bus stop and walk downhill 1 minute to Hokuriku Railway Nomachi Station. Take a train to Kaga-Ichinomiya Station (35 minutes). From here you can take a fairly long walk or catch a taxi to Park Shishiku which is at the base of Shishiku Heights. There is a boarding area for the gondola that will take you up to the mountain top. It is possible to hike down from top during the warmer months. Great views can be had stretching across the Kaga Plain all the way to the Sea of Japan. Tedori Kyokoku (Tedori Gorge). In Hakusan National Park, an ideal place to relax during the humid summer months. Boasting impressive cliffs rising up to 30 m and a roaring waterfall. In the summer, the gorge offers the chance to go rafting and canoeing along the fast flowing Tedori river. Roughly 1 hour by Hokutetsu bus for Shiramine from Kanazawa Station. Get off at Komonbashi or Furobashi bus stop and walk for several minutes. It is clearly signposted in English and easily accessible by car from Kanazawa. Takayama is another of the best-preserved major Edo-period cities in the country