Kabul

Understand

History Kabul is believed to have been founded between 2000 and 1500 BCE, possibly making it one of the oldest living cities in central- south Asia. It is mentioned in Hinduism's sacred Rigveda text (c1700-1100 BCE) as a vision of paradise set in the mountains. It was an important center of Zoroastrianism and later Buddhism. The city remained of little importance for much of the first three millennia of its existence. It was controlled variously by: the Persians, Alexander the Great, the Seleucid Empire, the Mauryan Empire, the Bactrians, various Hellenistic kingdoms, the Sassanid Empire, and by the 5th century CE was its own kingdom known as Kabul-Shahan. This last kingdom before the Islamic conquest built a large wall to protect the city from invasion when the Arabs arrived at the edge of the kingdom; parts of the wall have survived to this day and are visible above ground within the city. In 871 Kabul fell to the Islamic invasion (nearly 200 years after invading Muslims reached modern-day Afghanistan). The Kabulistan empire was formed covering much of Afghanistan and parts of western modern-day Pakistan. The city once again passed uneventfully through the hands of several empires, including the Samanids, Ghaznavids, Ghorids, Timurids, Mughols, Durranis, and the Barakzais, before conquest by the Mongols in the 13th century. The famous Moroccan traveler Ibn Battuta visited the city in 1344, noting, "We travelled on to Kabul, formerly a vast town, the site of which is now occupied by a village inhabited by a tribe of Persians called Afghans." Under the rule of Tamerlane in the 14th century, the city developed into a regional center of trade. In 1504, the city was captured by the Mughal emperor Babur. In 1747, Kabul came under control of the Durrani (or Afghan) Empire. In 1776, Kabul would become the empire's capital, although the empire soon fell into tribal civil war. In 1839, the region was claimed by the British and Kabul was established as the location of British government and the British Indian Forces. They were very unpopular amongst local tribes who revolted in 1841. Within a few days, a series of events led to the massacre of all but one of the 16,000 occupying British and Indian civilians and soldiers within miles of Kabul as they attempted to flee to Jalalabad, a famous blunder known as the Massacre of Elphinstone's Army. The first Flashman novel is a fictionalised account of this. The British returned in 1878 and 1879, but both times thousands of them were killed and they were forced to retreat.

In the early 20th century, electricity was i

Getting there

By plane 1 Kabul International Airport (KBL IATA) (5 km east of the city centre), ☏ +93 9251-61001. Has two separate terminals, one for international flights and the other for domestic flights. The airport is a hub for Ariana Afghan Airlines, and Kam Air. Airport facilities include restaurants, post office and car parking (all very basic). (updated Dec 2023)

Arrival Taxis are available but less reliable since 2021, with fewer drivers and higher prices due to economic constraints. Women must adhere to strict dress codes (full-body covering, such as a burqa) upon arrival.

Departure A foreigner registration card is sometimes required and taken from you upon your exit from Afghanistan. The registration card is free. Under Taliban rule, expect stricter security checks and potential delays due to enhanced scrutiny of foreigners. When flying out you will probably end up in Car Park C, and will have to get the shuttle bus to the terminal building. When flying out expect long queues and multiple ticket, passport and baggage checks, although things are now much better with the new terminal, principally because there is much more space.

International destinations International destinations include:

Air Arabia – from Sharjah Ariana Afghan Airlines – from Ankara, Delhi, Dubai, Istanbul-Atatürk, Jeddah, Mashhad, Moscow-Sheremetyevo, Tehran and Ürümqi. flydubai – from Dubai Iran Airtour – from Mashhad and Tehran Kam Air – from Abu Dhabi, Ankara, Delhi, Doha, Dubai, Islamabad, Istanbul, Jeddah, Mashhad, Riyadh, Tashkent and Tehran. Mahan Air – from Mashhad and Tehran. Turkish Airlines – from Istanbul Yazd Airways – from Tehran

Domestic destinations While the airport is not bad for a third world country, expect very basic conditions at other Afghan airports. As of June 2025:

Ariana Afghan Airlines from Herat, Kandahar and Mazar-e-Sharif. Kam Air from Herat, Kandahar, Khost and Mazar-e-Sharif.

By car The highway from Kandahar has been rebuilt, but traveling on it remains extremely dangerous due to insurgent activity and lack of security forces. The highway from Mazar-e Sharif and the North via the Salang Pass is open, although maintenance has declined, and winter travel is riskier due to poor snow clearance. The rebuilt highway from Jalalabad is open which has reduced the journey time to 2–3 hours. By this road you can come all the way from Torkham border (Khyber Pass) with Pakistan, shared taxi from there US$15 (2025). From Bamiyan it is advisable to take the longer northern route, as the southern route (through Wardak province) is of highly questio

Getting around

Maps of Kabul are available from Afghanistan Information Management Services who can print out custom wall maps of the city.

By bus The Millie Bus operates routes in Kabul, but services are unreliable, and many buses are old. Taxis are a faster and safer option, especially for foreigners, given the heightened security risks.

By taxi Taxis are available but less plentiful since the Taliban’s takeover. Hiring a car costs AFN 30–50, depending on destination and negotiation. Some drivers speak basic English, but they may charge more and are often found near major hotels or the airport. Avoid taxis near sensitive locations (e.g., government or military sites) due to increased Taliban surveillance. Women must sit in the back seat and wear full-body coverings. After dark, taxis are scarce, so keep trusted taxi contacts as a backup.

By private taxi Services have largely ceased catering to expats due to reduced foreign presence. Airport pickups and dropoffs are unreliable, and prices have increased significantly.

By car Car rentals are extremely limited under Taliban rule. Driving yourself is highly discouraged due to Taliban checkpoints, poor road conditions, and risks of targeting foreigners. Afghanistan drives on the right side.

By foot Central Kabul is compact, making walking viable in spring and fall. Summers are hot and dusty, while winters bring snow and mud. Pavements are scarce, and crossing roads requires caution. Walking in areas like Wazir Akbar Khan and Taimani is riskier since the Taliban’s takeover, especially at night. Foreigners, particularly women, must maintain a low profile, wearing simple clothing and full-body coverings (e.g., burqa or chador). Vary routes to avoid kidnapping risks, and avoid demonstrations or crowds, which can escalate rapidly under Taliban crackdowns. In traditional residential areas near the city wall, conservative locals may view outsiders with suspicion, and children may throw stones or set dogs on strangers.

See

1 Bagh-e Babur (Gardens of Babur). The gardens surround the tomb of the first Mughal Emperor Babur. Though he had wished to be buried here, he was originally buried in Agra, and later moved to this spot. Historically, the gardens have been visited by Afghans for picnics and lazy afternoons. There is a swimming pool, a small mosque for prayers and a small museum among other things. AFN10 for locals, AFN350 for foreigners. (updated Feb 2026) 2 Bagh-e Bala. Built in the late 19th century, it served as a summer palace for Amir Abdur Rahman. Today, much of the original interior has been preserved, and the area around the palace has become a large park. 3 Bagh-e Zanana (Family Park). A park and market for women only but includes male and female children. It was designed as a place where women could sell their own products and merchandise directly, which cannot be done in areas where men do business, because women in Afghanistan are not supposed to deal directly with men who are not relatives. This park was created as an outlet for these women to sell their goods with respect to their culture. There is also a female run restaurant. The park is also a nice place for women to enjoy the outdoors. Entrance fee AFN50. 4 British Cemetery. Where foreigners are buried in Kabul. There are also memorial plaques commemorating those ISAF forces killed. 5 Darul Aman Palace (at the end of Daral Aman Rd, south of the city, next to the Kabul Museum). Built as King Amanullah's Palace in the 1920s, it has been destroyed and rebuilt a few times over. By 2019, restoration works had been largely completed on the palace, which suffered massive damage during the 1990s civil war. (updated Aug 2017) 6 Tajbeg Palace (د تاج بېګ ماڼۍ). Not to be confused with Darul Aman, this palace was also built in the 1920 built to house the Royal family. (updated Aug 2017) Daoud Khan Memorial, Up the hill behind Darul Aman Palace. On 28 Jun 2008, the body of President Daoud and those of his family were found in two separate mass graves in the Pul-e-Charkhi area, District 12 of Kabul city. There is now a small memorial to the deceased on a small hill, offering nice views over southern Kabul. 7 Kabul Zoo. Daily 06:00-18:00. The zoo is very popular with Afghans, and houses over 100 animals, albeit in relatively poor condition. China was once one of the main donors of animals in the zoo, but after the death of a few animals to disease and malnutrition, China has announced that there will be no donations until living conditions improve. AFN10 for locals, AFN100 for foreigners. 8 Lake Qargha. Describe

Do

Old city wall. Walking along the city wall offers rewarding views over the city. The wall is still in pretty good condition, running west-east from Babur Gardens over to Bala Hissar (about 3 km in distance). Start from Babur Gardens because you may not find the wall if starting from Bala Hissar fort. Ask staff at Babur Gardens for directions and security advice - you may want to walk along the wall and then turn back because, according to locals, the mountains are not safe (2025). (updated Feb 2026) 1 Kabul Golf Club, Qargha Rd, ☏ +93 79 22 63 27. Closed down in 1978 by the Soviet Union, it reopened in 2004 after a 25-year hiatus. This 9-hole course bills itself as "extreme golf with an attitude". AFN750/US$15 greens fee for 9 or 18 holes. Ariana Cinema, Pashtunistan Square. Primarily shows Bollywood or trashy action flicks, and the occasional American blockbuster. Amani High School sports field. Open to the public on Tuesday afternoons and Fridays: football (soccer) with local Afghan guys, frisbee (with a collection of expats) and a 400-metre running track in comparatively green and pleasant surroundings. Free. 2 Ghazi Stadium (National Stadium). Home of the Afghan football team. Just past the stadium is the mine museum as well as a road up the hill where you will find hundreds of Afghan men and boys flying kites on holidays. 3 Kabul National Cricket Stadium. Home of the Afghan cricket team. Swim. There are a few swimming pools in the city. The nicest is probably at the Serena, but is a steep US$30 to use. UNICA club's swimming pool (US$5) is very popular, esp. on Fridays, when there is probably as much catwalking as swimming going on. Internationals (aka Maple Leaf) has a large and often empty pool (US$7) but it is in a plastic shed rather than outdoors. Le Divan also has a pool, again popular on Fridays. Except in private or foreigner-only places, women should not wear anything skimpy (especially bikinis).

Buy

Shopping centers The Shahr-e Naw neighborhood has many expensive shopping centers. To save money, most people of Kabul shop elsewhere such as on Lycee Maryam Road in the Khair Khana 2 neighborhood and the various places around Shah-Do Shamshira Mosque next to the Kabul River.

Gulbahar Business Center (مرکز تجارتی گلبهار سنتر), Wazkir Akbar Khan Road and Ibni Sina Road, next to Malik Azghar Square. Daily 07:30-20:00. It is one of the largest indoor shopping malls in Afghanistan. 1 Kabul City Center (کابل سیتی سینتر). Next to Shahr-e Naw Park, has some very smart shops. (updated Mar 2021) New Khairkhwa Market (نوی خیرخواه مارکیت), Nadir Pashtun Road, near Pashunistan Square, ☏ +93 74 9102030. Daily 08:00-20:00. It is one of the largest indoor shopping malls in Afghanistan Majid Mall. In Supreme Tower. It is one of the largest indoor shopping malls in Afghanistan. Roshan Plaza has some quite respectable clothes shops.

Supermarkets ABC Super Market, 3rd Street and Taimani Road, near Qala-e Fathullah, ☏ +93 79 5100401, +93 79 5100402. Daily 08:00-22:00. Sells many types of foreign food and household products. It has free delivery. (updated Aug 2025) Afghan Spinneys Supermarket, Shirpur Square, where Sher Ali Khan Road meets Butcher Street, ☏ +93 79 3888836, +93 70 3344662. Daily 07:00-21:00. It sells many types of foreign food and household products. (updated Aug 2025) Al-Wahed Market, Kart-e Char, ☏ +93 78 6666640. Daily 07:00-23:00. It sells local and foreign food products, particularly Iranian and Pakistani. (updated Aug 2025) Finest Superstore, 3rd Ansari, Sulh Road (Shahr-e Naw, opposite Kabul Business Center), ☏ +93 73 1494949. Daily 08:00-21:30. It sells many types of foreign food and household products. (updated Aug 2025)

Money You can change currency (i.e. US$ to Afs) in banks or at local money changers on the street (in certain parts of the city, i.e. Shahr-e-Naw). If you do it at local money changers, there is no fee, but make sure you know the exchange rate before attempting. ATMs and banking services are gradually expanding.

Afghanistan International Bank (AIB). Has a few machines around Kabul, including one inside the Kabul City Centre shopping mall. They dispense in afghanis and US dollars. Azizi Bank. Has many branches in the city. Kabul Bank. Has many branches in the city. Islamic Bank of Afghanistan. Has several branches in the city. MoneyGram. Has many branches across the city. Pashtany Bank (پشتنی بانک). Has several branches in the city. Western Union. Has many branches across the city.

Eat

There are many places to eat delicious food in Kabul without needing to spend too much money. Restaurants can crudely be split into "places for locals" and "places for expats", with the latter having higher quality, higher prices, and higher security. Restaurants that are UN-approved are particularly expensive. There are vendors on almost every street in the city. Restaurants open and close with surprising frequency, so it is a good idea to check whether a place is still operating before heading out.

Budget

Turkmen restaurant, Shahr-e-Naw, near ex Chicken Street (ask people around). The place is not visible from outside, you have to ask people near to show how to find it. Inside, there are several floors and rooms. The food is very tasty. Kebab and drink 360 Afs. (updated Feb 2026) Andkhoi Bastan Turkmen Restaurant, Shahid Road (In front of Etisalat Main Office), ☏ +93 78 565 6575. Offers traditional food. Ansari Kunduz Kabab, Ahmad Zahir Road and Kolula Pushta Road, ☏ +93 72 825 8140. Offers traditional food. Biryani House, ☏ +93 78 949 4747. Bolani, Kolula Pushta Road, ☏ +93 76 726 5264. Offers bolanis only. Cafe, Kabul City Center, Share-e Naw. Burger and banana drink for less than US$3. Chicking, Sulh Road (Inside Majid Mall), ☏ +93 78 600 0001. Fast food, English menu. Buffalo Kings, Sulh Road (Inside Majid Mall), ☏ +93 79 966 2662. Fast food, English menu. Everest Pizza, Qala e Najar Ha Ahmadyar, ☏ +93 79 931 7979, [email protected]. Fast food, English menu. Phone orders and home delivery available. London Pizza Experts, ☏ +93 77 722 2207, +93 73 0813813, +93 73 1771111. It has several locations. Taj Mahal Restaurant, Sulh Road, near Haji Yaqoob Square in Shahr-e Naw, ☏ +93 788 012777. Phone orders and home delivery available. US$5-10. Yummy Fast Food, Ahmad Zahir Road in Shah-r Naw, ☏ +93 79 2112112, +93 79 2112112, [email protected]. 24 hours. Fast food, English menu. It has several locations. Phone orders and home delivery available. US$5-10.

Mid-range The vast numbers of foreigners in Kabul has led to the city being perhaps the best place to eat in the region, and in the mid-range bracket there are dozens of good places to eat for US$5-10 per person for an evening meal.

Anaar Restaurant & Bar, Crossing of Street 14, Lane 3, Wazir Akbar Khan (Between Wazir Akbar Khan circle and Heetal Plaza Hotel, towards end of Street 14), ☏ +93 70 028 4315, [email protected]. 10:00-22:00. UN security clearance. Great Indian and Asian cuisine. English menu, English speaking staff. Phone orders - take-away and deliv

Sleep

Kabul is not a cheap place to stay, principally due to the costs of running a generator and providing security. The hotels are good if you are just passing through, however for long term stays opting for a guest house is more popular. There are several in Wazir Akbar Khan and Shar-i-Naw, often in huge Pakistani style mansions. It is wise to look closely at the security arrangements for any of these hotels. Many, especially those in the Splurge section, have been attacked by Taliban or other insurgent groups. Always think about escape routes and safe places to shelter.

Budget Shahr Guest House (previously Salsal Guesthouse) (Shahr e Naw Front side of MTN), ☏ +93 79 322 6464, [email protected]. Reasonably clean, shared bathrooms, friendly manager (Bashir) speaks English. Most rooms have cable TV and a fan. Singles from US$10, doubles from US$20 per night. (updated Feb 2026)

Mid-range Khyber Hotel, Ahmad Zahir Road, Shahr-e Naw (Around the corner from Shahr-e Naw Park, on the southwest side.), ☏ +93 79 888 8141, [email protected]. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 12:00. Nice hotel in the center and safest part of Kabul, helpful English speaking staff. Serves rich breakfast. Double with breakfast 1500 Afs. (updated Feb 2026) Afghania Guest House, Shirpur Square, Ankara Road (across from Embassy of Iran), ☏ +93 73 088 8835. 1 Golden Star Hotel, Sulh Road, Haji Yaqoob Square, Shahr-e Naw, ☏ +93 79 133 3777, [email protected]. Clean and modern 4-star hotel, with restaurant, conference hall, a small gym, and high speed Internet in each room. From US$45. Le Monde Guest House Kabul, 7 Herati Mosque St (Close to Shar-e Naw Park and Flower St). 2 Park Star Hotel, Yaftali St, Shar-i-Naw (on a back street, behind the Kabul City Center), ☏ +93 77 722 0221, +93 20 221 3331, [email protected]. UNICA Guest House, Shar-i-Naw, Ansari Wat. Nice by Kabul standards and includes nice common gardens, swimming pool and bar, dinner buffet is US$6. Few rooms from US$25, most cost US$45-50 per night. Petra Guest House, House 1036, Lane 4 left, St 15, Wazir Akbar Khan, ☏ +93 7 8841 1482. Better than average guesthouse popular with UN staff. Little garden with water feature and peacocks. Raven Rae Villa (off Koche Qasabi (Butcher Street), first left lane, 6th house on the right), ☏ +93 7 7905 7640, [email protected]. Low-profiled with furnished rooms. Meals, Wi-Fi, laundry and daily room cleaning are provided. Restaurant on premises, the Raven Rose Garden. US$95/night. 3 Q Kabul Hotel, 40M Road, Kabul. Very secure hotel po

Go next

Most expats take any opportunity they can to leave Kabul. Istalif in a side valley of the Shamali Plain makes for an excellent overnight or day trip destination. A day trip to the north (Shamali Plain, Salang Pass, Panjshir Valley and Jabal os Saraj), Qargha Reservoir to the west of Kabul. If you are short in time, consider a day trip to Panjshir Valley with a local agency. This picturesque valley is where to mujahideen people resisted Soviet invasion. Some ruined tanks are near the river, and more of them on the field at the valley entrance. To the North, there are several daily buses to Mazar-e Sharif, one or some go over the night. Ask your hotel or your guide for help to get to the bus station. The journey is long, takes about 12 hours (bus goes very slow around Salang Pass, shares road with standing trucks) and costs 750 Afs (2025). From Mazar-e Sharif you can visit nearby Balkh and go to Uzbekistan via Termez. Pakistan can be reached by a shared taxi (US$15, 2025) to Torkham border (Khyber Pass). From there take another shared taxi to Peshawar (Rs 2000, 2025). You can fly to Dubai, Dushanbe or Delhi for the weekend also.