Istanbul

Understand

History

While relics of prehistoric human settlement were found in the Yarımburgaz Cave near the Küçükçekmece Lake and during the construction of a subway station in Yenikapı, Greek colonists from Megara, directed by their legendary leader Byzas, have been traditionally accepted as the founders of Istanbul. Expanding the ancient Greek colony of Byzantium by the order of the Roman Emperor Constantine the Great, the imperial city of Constantinople was for nearly a thousand years the heavily-fortified capital of the Eastern Roman (later termed Byzantine) Empire. To this day, the Ecumenical Patriarch, head of the Eastern Orthodox Church continues to be the Archbishop of Constantinople, who is still based in Istanbul. It was finally conquered by the Ottoman Sultan Mehmed II on 29 May 1453, an event sometimes used to mark the end of the Middle Ages. It was the nerve centre for military campaigns that were to enlarge the Ottoman Empire dramatically. By the mid-1500s, Istanbul, with a population of almost half a million, was a major cultural, political, and commercial centre. Ottoman rule continued until it was defeated in the first World War and Istanbul was occupied by the allies. When the Republic of Turkey was born in 1923 after the War of Independence, Kemal Atatürk moved its capital to the city of Ankara, strategically located in the centre of the new republic. However, Istanbul has continued to expand dramatically; today its population is approximately 14 million and increases at an estimated 400,000 immigrants per year. Industry has expanded even as tourism has grown. It continues to be a city that creates its own history at the intersection where both continents meet.

Orientation Istanbul is divided in three by the north-south Bosphorus Strait (İstanbul Boğazı, "the strait of Istanbul"), the dividing line between Europe and Asia, the estuary of the Golden Horn (Haliç) bisecting the western part and the Sea of Marmara (Marmara Denizi) forming a boundary to the south. Most sights are concentrated in the old city on the peninsula of Sultanahmet, to the west of the Bosphorus between the Horn and the Sea. Across the Horn to the north are Galata, Beyoğlu and Taksim, the heart of modern Istanbul, while Kadıköy is the major district on the comparatively less-visited Anatolian side of the city. The Black Sea forms the relatively less developed northern boundary of Istanbul.

Climate

Despite what its stereotypes, artificially placed palm trees, or misleading tourism brochures may imply, Istanbul is not the sunny, warm year-round holiday destination some

Getting there

See Turkey#Get in for visa requirements. From 2020, most EU, UK, CIS and South American visitors do not need a visa. Those from many other countries including Australia, Canada and US can get an e-visa online, valid for 90 days.

By plane

1 Istanbul Airport (IST IATA). Istanbul's chief airport, and the main port of entry into Turkey, is 30 km northwest of the city in Arnavutköy, on the Europe-side Black Sea coast. It was opened in 2018 / 19 and replaced Atatürk Airport. It has a very wide range of international flights, by Turkish Airlines and other carriers, and domestic flights at least daily to all the major Turkish cities. There's car hire and the usual passenger facilities. Metro line M11, public buses, and taxis are available to the city centre. A second metro line is under construction from the airport to the western district of Halkalı. (updated Feb 2023) Getting to and from Istanbul International Airport

By metro – The M11 metro line connects the airport to the city, providing a fast and affordable option. The metro station is outside airport exit 11, in front of the parking lot, where you can purchase an 'Istanbulkart.' To reach your destination, you will likely need to transfer and possibly walk a short distance. The Istanbul metro operates from 06:15 to 00:15. By bus – Two companies, Havaist and IETT, provide transport to and from Istanbul International Airport, though neither offers a direct connection to the popular Sultanahmet area. You can reach other parts of the city using IETT independently or in combination with other transportation modes. Havaist's luxury buses (iSt-1) take you to major transit hubs like Aksaray Metro Station (the trip takes about 90 minutes depending on traffic). Havaist operates non-stop every 25-30 minutes, and a ticket costs €5.42 or $5.99 (October, 2024). The bus station is located on Level -2 at the airport. Here, you can purchase an 'Istanbulkart,' which is valid for all forms of public transport, including public restrooms. Airport shuttle tickets can also be bought online via the Havaist app or website, where you can also find the list of stations and timetable. If you choose city buses or trams, note that travel can be challenging if you have luggage or arrive during peak hours. The vehicles may be crowded, and transfers between lines often involve a bit of walking. By taxi – Taking a taxi offers a comfortable transfer, but it may not be fast due to Istanbul's heavy traffic. A ride to Sultanahmet typically costs approximately €27.92 (according to airport guide as of October 2024), depending on the time

Getting around

İETT (or just toplu taşıma) is the municipality's public transportation company. Istanbul's public transit system can be difficult to figure out. However, if you put some effort into it, you can avoid taxis and not walk too much. Unless you use the Istanbulkart, each time you use a tram, metro, bus, or boat on the public transport system, you will need to use a ticket or pass. They can be bought at various vending machines at bus, railway and metro stations or authorized ticket/Istanbulkart sellers (usually newspaper kiosks). Ticket fares across buses, trams and metros differ. Only cash in Turkish lira is accepted at ticket kiosks of public transport, no credit cards or foreign currency. The Istanbul subway system does not offer transfer tickets: each change to a new line requires a new fare. When travelling to Istanbul by air, it is much cheaper (and more fun) to use the bus (or metro system once it is extended) to get as close to your accommodation as possible before walking and/or taking a taxi to where you are staying. Although the public transport may be slightly confusing, taxis/charter buses from the airport are notoriously overpriced. If public transport is your choice of getting around, consider using smartphone public transportation applications so that you can easily see stops, stations and terminals nearby or see alternate routes for your planned destination. İETT has an official one called Mobiett which is available for iOS, Android or Windows. But also Google Maps is very reliable to guide your way using public transport.

İstanbulkart

The İstanbulkart is Istanbul's public transport smart card, which can be used as a ticket on buses, trams, suburban trains, metro, local ferries, etc. If you are in Istanbul for more than a day or two and intend to use public transport, it will pay for itself in a few trips. It can be purchased at a number of small corner shops throughout the city, or from the machines located at most stations, where it can also be recharged, using notes or a credit card. An alternative to the physical card is the Mobile İstanbulkart, which is an app you can load on your phone. However, as of 2024, signing up requires a Turkish mobile phone number, so unless you have one, you will be out of luck. You touch the Istanbulkart to a reader when you get on the bus or enter the tram or metro platform. The great advantage for a group of travellers is that you can buy only one and touch it as many times as there are passengers (unlike London's Oyster card, there is no need to touch out, except the BRT Metrobüs line). You can buy or

See

Museum Pass The Turkish government offers a museum pass for Istanbul's many sights and museums, and key spots on Sultanahmet, for €105 as of April 2025. The pass can be bought at the entrance of many museums or online. Check out what is included, and buy it if it makes sense for you. Numerous sights can still be seen for free and the biggest joy is probably just walking around and sucking in the atmosphere. The non-transferable pass is valid for five days from the date of the first visit, and allows one free entry to each of these museums:

Topkapı Palace and Harem Hagia Irene Istanbul Archaeological Museums Istanbul Mosaic Museum Museum for the History of Science and Technology in Islam Museum of Turkey and Islamic Arts Galata Mevlevi House Museum Rumeli Hisar Museum Galata Tower (Galata Kulesi Museum) Notably, the Hagia Sophia is not included, and tickets cost an extra €25 as of March 2024. In addition to saving money when visiting these sites, the card allows you to skip the queue for tickets and go straight to the gates at some sites (Galata Tower is the notable exception). Most museums in Istanbul are closed on Mondays or Wednesdays, so checking the website first or ringing is a sensible option before setting off. Alternatively, you can consider buying the much more expensive Istanbul Tourist Pass, 2-day pass costs €150, 3-day pass €180, 5-day pass €210, 7-day pass €235 as of March 2024. It includes entrance to all of the above museums, a couple of boat tours, three days mobile internet, and even a one-way discounted Istanbul airport transfer (€20). However, it consistently receives negative reviews due to bad organisation and intermittent problems with accessing some of its included services. There are also some city passes (see below), which offer a limited more tour-oriented selection of activities and sights.

Sights Individual listings can be found in Istanbul's district articles

With its long history at the centre of empires, Istanbul offers a wealth of historic and religious places to take in. The bulk of these ancient monuments, dating back to the Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman periods, including the Hagia Sophia, Topkapı Palace, Sultanahmet Mosque (Blue Mosque), and the Basilica Cistern, are around Sultanahmet Square, while some others are dispersed throughout the peninsula of the old city, such as the former Church of the Holy Saviour in Chora (Kariye Camii), the entire inside of which is covered by mindblowing frescoes and mosaics. An impressive section of the mostly intact Theodosian walls, which mark the full length of the western b

Do

Individual listings can be found in Istanbul's district articles

Hamam – Sultanahmet has many historical hamams. Some are very extravagant and cater mainly to tourists. Waterpipe – Most of the places where you can smoke a nargile are in Yeniçeriler Caddesi, near the Kapalı Çarşı (Grand Bazaar). Çorlulu Ali Paşa and Koca Sinan Paşa Türbesi are both in secluded internal courts, just around the corner from some tomb yards, while Rumeli Kahvesi is actually inside the cemetery of an old medrese, though it’s not as spooky as you might think. In the south of Sultanahmet, near the sea, is Yeni Marmara (Çayıroğlu Sokak), where you can also sit in the terrace and enjoy the view. In Beyoğlu, at the Ortakahve (Büyükparmakkapı), there’s even the choice of a wide range of flavors. Another area with few big good looking places is the Rıhtım Caddesi, between Galata bridge and Istanbul Modern Museum.

Walking tours

Museums and such: Haghia Sophia, then on to the Topkapı museum (these two should take at least three to five hours), preferably along the road in the back of the Haghia Sophia, where there are some nicely restored houses. Then on to the Blue Mosque and the square with the obelisks on it (At Meydani). Along its side is the very good Museum of Islam Art. Descend slightly and find the small Haghia Sophia with its nice garden (it was under restoration, but you probably can get in). Then uphill to the Sokollu Mehmet mosque complex, top notch tiles inside. Take a tram or walk to Eminönü (where the boats leave for trips to Asia or up the Bosphorus). Visit the New Mosque at the back, then the Egyptian Bazaar next to it, and going further in that direction, locate the Rüstem Pasha mosque with its excellent tiles. It's on a raised platform near an old clothes market, you may have to ask directions. Then take a cab or find a bus to Eyüpsultan mosque complex, a mile or three up the Golden Horn. Visit this Eyüpsultan complex at your leisure (the mosque is not particular, the court is, and the milling of believers, with many boys-to-be-circumcised among it; a Friday might be a good day to do this). Then, if you have the stamina, it might be nice to walk back too; maybe all the way (8 km or so), but taking a route along part of the city wall to first the famous Kariye Church with its mosaics, then on to Yavuz Selim Mosque with its great view on the Golden Horn (and a fine mosque by itself), then the Fatih Mosque (passing through some very religious and lively neighborhoods), then on to the well-restored Sehzade mosque, and next to Süleymaniye (don't forget to enjoy the v

Buy

Money Euro and US dollar are accepted at places frequented by tourists, but certain tourist attractions only accept liras. Currency exchanges (döviz bürosu) and banks are plentiful in Istanbul and offer extremely competitive exchange rates. If you are planning to visit Istanbul, bring hard foreign currency and exchange them after you arrive (not at the airport!), preferably at a bank or a currency exchange. Exchange rates at the airport are terrible, only in the city you well get excellent rates with a sell-buy-spread of about 1–2%. All major currencies are accepted as well, but rates are not that excellent. Exchange leftover lira directly before leaving, in many foreign countries it can be hard to get rid of them at a proper rate.

Shopping Individual listings can be found in Istanbul's district articles Connecting east and west, the will to control the major trading routes was the reason why Istanbul was founded in the first place, so shopping should definitely not be overlooked in your Istanbul experience. Contrary to the rest of the world, shops in Istanbul are usually open during weekends. Most major shopping malls have security checkpoints you usually see in airports and museums prior to entry.

What

Here are some of what are popular to buy while in the city:

Turkish Delight, or Lokum (as the locals call it) – A good buy since you're in Turkey. It is advisable to buy it fresh rather than in pre-packed boxes and to get a variety of flavours rather than the stereotypical rose-water or lemon flavors available abroad. Pistachio in particular is very good. The best place to buy lokum in Istanbul is from a store. Istiklal Caddesi in particular features a number of stores that sell Turkish sweets by the kilogram including lokum and helvah. There are quite a few shops selling Turkish Delight in the Grand Bazaar, although unless you are very good at haggling better prices can be found elsewhere. Turkish Tea (çay, chai) – The national drink of Turkey, brewed from leaves grown on the steep, verdant mountain slopes of Turkey's eastern Black Sea coast. Traditionally, Turkish tea is brewed samovar-style, with a small pot of very strong tea sitting on a larger vessel of boiling water. Pour a small amount of strong tea into a little tulip-shaped glass and cut it to the desired strength with hot water. Turks usually add cube sugar (never milk, although you can often get milk if you ask.) Having fresh, hot tea always available everywhere is one of life's splendid little luxuries in Turkey. Elma Çayı: apple tea, like hot apple juice (EHL-mah chah-yee) is the

Eat

Individual listings can be found in Istanbul's district articles For a full-on culinary experience, one should look for esnaf lokantası restaurants. They are essentially old-school canteens with a variety of traditional selections from soups to main courses to desserts.

Snacks

Balık-Ekmek. Balik-Ekmek (literally "fish and bread") consists of freshly grilled fish, typically mackerel, served in a crusty bread roll with lettuce, onions, and sometimes tomatoes, often accompanied by a squeeze of lemon and a sprinkle of spices. It’s a flavorful and iconic snack often enjoyed by the waterfront. Boiled and roasted corn on the cob is sold from carts around the city, and is a fantastic snack to walk around. Price varies from cart to cart and area of the city. Döner: A beloved Turkish dish made from seasoned meat (such as lamb, chicken, or beef) cooked on a vertical rotisserie. Thin slices are shaved off as the outer layer roasts and are served in various forms—wrapped in flatbread (dürüm), stuffed into a sandwich, or plated with rice and salad. It's a staple of Turkish cuisine and a global street food favorite. Dürüm Kebap: Dürüm kebaps are a type of Turkish wrap where grilled meat, such as Adana (spiced minced meat), ciğer (liver) or şiş (skewered chunks), is wrapped in thin flatbread, like lavash or yufka. They're typically accompanied by vegetables, herbs, and sauces, offering a convenient and flavorful way to enjoy kebabs on the go. Freshly squeezed juice and juice blends are sold from stands and small shops all around the city and are a refreshing treat (especially in the warmer months). The combinations range from a simple orange juice to the rarer options like pomegranate or kiwi. Price varies from shop to shop, area of the city and complexity of your order. Islak Hamburger & Patso Islak or 'Wet' Burger is a Turkish street food classic featuring a soft bun and a meat patty drenched in a garlicky, tomato-based sauce, then steamed to give it a moist, flavorful texture. Patso is a popular Turkish snack, consisting of a sandwich filled with French fries, often accompanied by ketchup, mayonnaise, or sausage slices, making it a simple yet satisfying fast-food treat. Kokoreç: A traditional Turkish street food made from seasoned and skewered lamb or goat intestines, wrapped around sweetbreads, and grilled over charcoal. It is typically chopped, mixed with spices, and served in bread or on a plate, offering a flavorful and aromatic experience. Kumpir: It consists of a baked potato with various fillings such as grated cheese, mayonnaise, ketchup, pickles, sliced

Drink & nightlife

Individual listings can be found in Istanbul's district articles

Meyhanes are taverns which originated in Ottoman times. They come in both 'traditional' and 'modern' accents, some even with some belly dancing. One could find them mostly on the seaside districts of both sides.

Bebek is a small town on the European Bosphorus, 10 km north of downtown, with fancy restaurants and bars. Great place to have a walk on the seaside after a nice dinner. Bağdat Caddesi is a very long avenue full of good restaurants, boutiques and high-end stores on the south Anatolia side of Istanbul. Beyoğlu has lively night life, with cafes and bars with live music. Kadıköy also has a compact nightlife scene, serving mostly locals of this part of the city. It's easy-going, with local pubs and wine houses. Karaköy is the rising star of the city, with its underground parties with views over the Marmara Sea. Nişantaşı is the place for young entrepreneurs and artists, but prices are higher than in Taksim. Nightclubs are found all over the city, but most popular ones are in Pera and Ortaköy.

Sleep

Individual listings can be found in Istanbul's district articles

In general, it is possible to find some kind of accommodation in any part of Istanbul. Here is a quick list of the areas where they are concentrated most:

Harbiye is a popular place to stay; it's close to the main centre of the new city on the European side, and contains a variety of international standard apartments, hotels, and moderate hotels for budget travelers. Nişantaşı and Taksim are quite close so you can stay in Harbiye and benefit from all activities in those areas. Taksim is the main centre of the city on the European side. Locals and tourists go to Taksim for shopping and entertainment, and it has moderate hotels for budget travelers. There are also hostels in this area. Sultanahmet the main centre for the old city on the European side. It has a selection of quality, reasonably priced hotels, many with terraces overlooking the Golden Horn, or with views of the Marmara Sea and the Blue Mosque. Most hostel-type accommodation frequented by independent travellers are located in this district, although it is possible to find a few upmarket hotels. Upscale hotels can be found in the western suburbs, especially around the former airport, as well as on or near the banks of the European Bosphorus. Caravan parks exist in Ahırkapı south of Sultanahmet, in Maltepe in the Maltepe and in the outlying villages on both sides of the Bosphorus.

Go next

West The area of European Turkey to the west of Istanbul is called Thrace. It has many historic towns with Byzantine and Ottoman heritage.

Edirne, two hours to the northwest, is a beautiful historic city, and was the Ottoman capital before power moved to Istanbul. You need at least a day here. A slow scenic route winds north via Kıyıköy, ancient Medea, a fisherman's village on the Black Sea with some traditional architecture, partially rebuilt ancient city walls and a nearby rock-cut monastery. The next town on that route is Vize, an old town with a well preserved Byzantine cathedral. Head into Western Europe either via Sofia in Bulgaria or Bucharest in Romania. Or perhaps you can follow the ancient Via Egnatia all the way to the Adriatic and across to Rome.

South The Marmara Islands are across the sea, much further away and less urban than the Princes Islands just offshore of the city. Bursa to the southeast is a former Ottoman capital with many historical sights plus Uludağ National Park just south. İznik, rich in Byzantine, Seljuk, and early Ottoman heritage, is worth a detour on the way. A scenic route towards Izmir is to head west then south into the Gallipoli peninsula, with its World War I sites, cross the Dardanelles to Çanakkale, then past ancient Troy and Pergamon (Bergama). A short ferry-ride brings you to the charming island of Bozcaada. For more detailed descriptions, see Istanbul to Izmir.

East In Istanbul you've only stepped on the threshold of Asian Turkey. Continue east across Anatolia for so much more: rejuvenated Ankara, unworldly Cappadocia, surreal Mount Nemrut, faraway Kars. And further still across the lands of the former Ottoman Empire: follow in the footsteps of ancient traders, medieval travellers, pilgrims, and hippies.